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October 01, 2004
Tahiti Inter-Continental Beachcomber (1 night)
Hotel Bora Bora (6 nights)
Le Tahaa Pearl Beach Resort (4 nights)
Hotel Bora Bora (2 nights) **will be explained**

Day 1: We had to get up at 5:30 to catch our early flight from Boston to LA, which wasn't really my favorite part of the trip! The flight was 6 1/2 hours and not too uncomfortable, but American Airlines isn't the best airline exactly.
When we got to LAX, we had to change terminals and check in at the Tahiti-Nui counter. We had to wait about 15 minutes, because the lady working there though that my passport might not be acceptable just because it is a German child's passport that is made out of paper. It was a bit ridiculous because my passport is full of stamps from many countries, and my parents couldn't believe that she thought it wasn't acceptable! In the end, we got our tickets and went to our gate.
My father treated us to a 1st class flight, because the flight is super long. Let me say that Air Tahiti-Nui is one of the best airlines in the world and that this flight was the best of my life!! There are only 6 seats in the 1st class and they are really wide and go all the way back. There is a beautiful flower arrangement on a table in the front. The stewardess gave us small Tiare flowers, which smell wonderful! She also gave us pyjamas and really soft slippers and a bath kit. We took off and then we were over the Pacific Ocean for 8 hours. Yes, the flight was long, but really comfy. The stewardesses changed into these beautiful long dresses and they were really nice. For dinner, we had an buffet of steak, salads, fish, and much more. You could just choose and she'd give it to you...it was really good! the steak was a bit raw though. Then dessert came and there was ice-cream and cakes.
It was really late when we finally saw lights in the middle of the ocean. I was so excited! We landed, got our bags, and took a taxi to our hotel. I was so glad that it was warm!! In Boston, the winter was so cold! Our hotel was the Tahiti Beachcomber hotel. It was very close to the airport, because we were planning on leaving Tahiti the next day for Bora Bora. They greeted us with flower leis. Our room had 2 double beds and was clean. Nothing special though! I couldn't wait till morning to see what French Polynesia looked liked! It had been me that had chosen this destination for my March break. We walked outside and it was still hot. Our room was in front of a smaller infinity pool...Then we slept because we were so tired.

Day 2: We got up really early at about 6:30 Tahiti time, because of jet lag. I jumped out of bed and saw the beautiful palm trees and the blue ocean. We got dressed in summer clothes and went down to breakfast. Few people were at the breakfast buffet, which was ok, because it was quite quiet. It was the biggest breakfast buffet I had ever seen!! They had the traditional english/american foods and then they had lobsters, clams, and oysters! Table after table of food! It was amazing! We stuffed ourselves while looking at a bigger pool with a man-made lagoon in it. I took tons of pictures of over-water bungalows!
Our flight to Bora Bora was a 3:00, so we just sat and relaxed by the pool. The pool had a negative edge, so the water looked like it was flowing into the ocean. The pool had a white sand bottom and some nice rocks in the middle. We just sat and read by the pool! It was very nice. On the side of the pool was a small "island" with two big straw chairs. After a while, some hotel people started decorated them by putting flowers in the chairs and bringing a table to the island. Over the bridge they put palm leaves. Then we realized that they were preparing for a wedding! We waited and watched the wedding of a Japanese couple. Some Tahitian men came and played music, and it was nice to watch.
Then we left for the airport and got there too early, so we had to wait for two hours! My dad had read that sometimes the flights left really early, so he just wanted to be safe. We chose our seats on the left side of the plane, which was lucky, because we could see all of the islands from Tahiti to Bora Bora. The flight was about 45 minutes, but it felt like 10. The Bora Bora airport is a very small one on a motu...it was very cute. Some people from Hotel Bora Bora were waiting for us and they greeted us with leis again and took us with a boat to the hotel.
Hotel Bora Bora is located on Raititi Point, which has the best snorkeling on the island, because the hotel keeps it protected from fishermen. It is the oldest hotel on the island and has a very good reputation. At first, my dad hesitated about coming to the old one, but in the end we definately didn't regret it. Hotel Bora Bora is the best hotel that we had every stayed at, and we have travelled a lot. It isn't the most elegant, but the service is superior to any other hotel. The people are so nice and they really get to know you. They're not only doing their job--they want to get to know you too. The hotel does anything for you...their motto must be something like "What do you want, customer?" It is great and not very big. It only has about 54 rooms and it is part of a very small chain that only has exclusive small hotels. I strongly recommend coming to this hotel!!!! Our trip to French Polynesia would have been very nice anyway, but if we hadn't stayed here it wouldn't have been as good!
When we arrived, two women from the hotel, greeted us with champagne and orange juice for me. We all drank and talked for about ten minutes. Then they showed us our room, which was a big beach house right on the beach! My dad wanted this room, because it was the biggest one for the 3 of us. It had a deck with sun chairs, a living room, a huge closet room/bath room, a bed room and an ensuite sitting room that had been turned into a room for me. On the table was a bowl of fresh fruit and some white wine, and on the beds they had put pareos (wraps) and hibiscus flowers! In French Polynesia there are fruits and flowers everywhere!! You never feel bad when you pick one!
We just relaxed in the room and then went to dinner in the hotel's restaurant, the Matiri Terrace. We had dinner on the deck overlooking the lagoon. The food was excellant and I recommend having the chocolate souffle for dessert! There was also a little kitten that came around to all the tables...it was very cute!

Day 3: We got up at a reasonable time and had breakfast. Then we went to the Raititi Lounge, also known as the activities lounge. We met Carol, a nice woman, who helped us make an activites plan for the week! Then we had it printed out and we had a nice schedule! In the lounge is also a tv, library, games, and a pool table in case there is a rainy day.
After we picked up some snorkeling equipment from the beach hut and went snorkeling! There's a great coral garden around the hotel, and we saw a lot of fish! We had lunch at the Pofai Beach Bar, which was really nice and casual. I love the cocktails there!! This was a relaxing day. For dinner we went to Bloody Mary's because I had heard so much about it. It was ok, but nothing special. We decided to have dinner at the hotel from then on, even though when we travel we hardly ever eat at the hotel, but here the food is good.
When we came back to the hotel, we went out to the dock, because the women there had told us that they light up the water there and manta rays come and eat there! It was amazing! The manta rays came and did "summersaults" right in front of you! They are really cool creatures.

Day 4: Today it was a little cloudy, but not rainy. We were going to take a "Polynesian Tour" today, but we couldn't because the guide was afraid it might rain and the weather needed to be good. So we scheduled some riding in the afternoon and decided that we would go to the main town in the morning. Vaitape is the main town and there are a lot of pearl shops there. We walked around a bit, but there wasn't that much to see. We spent quite a long time in a pearl shop and ended up getting some. They are very pretty and they aren't really black! Most of them are green, blue, or purple! We learned a lot about pearls and how they are graded. Every time we see a black pearl somewhere in a shop we examine it and usually find a flaw. French Polynesia is the best place to get black pearls.
Later, my mother and I went riding. Olivier came and picked us up and took us to the motu where he keeps his 8 horses. It was only my mother and me in the group. At first my mother was terrified, but Olivier is really funny, so he convinced her to try it out and in the end it was ok. The horses are really great because they are independent! I was allowed to canter around in the water, and my mother's horse just walked! Most trail horses just do the same thing that the horse in front of them does, but these horses are better. We have some great pictures of us on the horses in the water with the mountainous Bora Bora in the background.
In the evening, there was a cocktail party and we talked to some more people from the hotel, which was nice. They are all very friendly.

Day 5: We took a jeep tour around and "up" the island on this day. It was very funny, because when you go "up" the island the road is very bumpy! Our guide gave us a lot of information about the island. We visited some high hills and saw great views of the water and hotels with the over water bungalows. We also visted some old WWII cannons, which were really big! Our guide gave us fresh pineapple...yum! We also went up a nice valley with many fruit trees!
In the afternoon my father and I went parasailing! It was the first time for both of us. We went up 900 meters...there were great views from the top and it wasn't too windy. Afterwards, we both felt a little queasy though...but it was worth it!
At 6:00 we went out to the deck of the restaurant to watch the sunset! It is really spectacular! Then we went down to the beach, because it was "Polynesian Evening", so they had a huge buffet on the beach. The buffet was great! A lot of different foods! i usually don't eat fish, but here it is very fresh! After dinner, dancers came out and danced for everyone! The girls can move their hips really fast...it's incredible. There were also fire dancers who threw fire torches into the air and did all sorts of tricks with them! it was very cool...
Then we walked on the beach and saw the amazing sky filled with stars! There were always very clear skies there. We also saw a lot of hermit crabs crawling on the beach....quite amusing!

Day 6: We took the "Blue Lagoon Cruise", which was so wonderful! We had a Tahitian guide and he had a really nice boat with comfy seats. He took us to see the sting rays, which was really cool! I never thought that they would bee so friendly...they come and rub against you! Then we went outside of the lagoon and saw the sharks! Our guide threw fish while we watched all the sharks swim around us in circles! I was a little scared at first, but they are not very big and they are used to people. Then we saw a lemon shark swimming at the bottom! We also saw a napolean fish below us. The water is about 30 meters outside of the lagoon and the water is a lot darker than what we were used to! You really must see the sting rays and sharks if you go to Bora Bora.
Then our guide took us to some really nice swimming areas. One was next to the Pearl Beach resort and it was really shallow with white sand! Our guide played on his guitar while we swam around. Then we tried to find some manta rays, but we didn't see any.

Day 7: Today was definately one of the best days of the trip. My father couldn't come because he was sun burnt and he missed a lot! We took the "Polynesian Tour" with a nice guide, Patrick, who had benn Mr. Bora Bora 2 years ago. He came from an old tahitian family and his ancestors were the chiefs, so he had some special rights. He could marry people for example. He took us to feed the sting rays again, but this time we actually got to feed them and there were a lot more! They starting to swim up us! We saw the sharks again, but this time you felt safer because his boat had an out rigger, so you could swim out a bit and hold on to the rigger.
Then he took us to a motu that his family owns where some people had prepared a traditional Tahitian meal for us. It was cooked in the ground! There was pig, chicken with spinach, poisson cru (raw rish with coconut milk), and a pumpkin dessert. Our table was IN THE WATER! The plates were made out of palm leaves and we had to eat with our fingers like the Tahitians used to. When ever they got sticky you could just dip them in the water and little fish would come and suck on them. When you had some waste from food, you could just throw it into the water, because the fish would just attack it and it would be gone in a couple of seconds! It was a really delicious meal!
We took a walk around the island and saw the Pacific side, which has much bigger waves!
Then we went back to the hotel for our last night! Before dinner there was a "Mama show" where old Tahitian women danced and sang for us. They also made flower crowns, straw hats, and baskets for us!
It was supposed to be a special beach evening, but most people ate at the restaurant, so we were the only ones on the beach! We had a special meal with lobster and poisson cru (again...) it was great! Our waiter was very funny, so we had a nice conversation with him!
When we got to our room, we saw that flowers had been put all over the floor and on the beds! They also had given us champagne and strawberries and cream.

Day 8: In the morning, my dad and I went jet skiing, which was very exciting! We went around the island with a guide and stopped on a motu for some coconut! We went swimming and zoomed around on our jet skis! Sometimes the waves were really big and jumped in the air a lot!
In the afternoon, we had to say good-bye to our wonderful hotel! All the people that we had met came to the dock to say good-bye to us. We go some shell necklaces as a gift and then we went to the airport. We waited and took a helicopter to Tahaa, an island next to Bora Bora. It took us 15 minutes to get there. We stayed at the Pearl Beach Resort, which is on a motu. We stayed in an over-water bungalow, which was very big. This hotel is very new and has very nice architecture! From our deck, we could see Bora Bora. The only thing is that the service wasn't as good as at Hotel Bora Bora, and we were used to that! For example they forgot to make my bed 3 times in a row!
We had a nice dinner, but it wasn't as good as at Hotel Bora Bora...we missed it a lot!

Day 9: We spent this day just relaxing! We sat by the pool and read and went swimming! There is a wonderful coral garden right next to the motu and we spent a couple of hours there! It is very shallow though, so you have to be careful! There is a nice "in-the-pool bar" where had some good cocktails.
For dinner we went to Chez Louise, a small restaurant on the main island. It was only us and another couple who we shared a table with. The food was yummy. Louise gave us lobster and some fish. The waste was given to some interesting-looking fish that had been waiting by her dock for the left-overs!!

Day 10: We made the decision that we would return to Bora Bora on wednesday morning, because we missed the hotel too much and the difference between the service was too big. The pearl beach resort wasn't bad, but we missed Hotel Bora Bora!
We went on a tour of Tahaa today with a jeep and a nice young guide who told us a lot about its history. We drove to the top of a mountain and we "learned" to dance in the Tahitian way. We also got some fresh fruit as a snack. Then we went to a pearl farm and learned how pearls are made. We also went to a vanilla plantation. 70 percent of the vanilla that comes from French Polynesia is made on Tahaa. We bought a lot of vanilla products...

Day 11: Today we visited Raiatea, the island right next to Tahaa, but sharing the same lagoon. We visited the old temples called the marae where human sacrifices used to be performed. The marae on Raiatea was the most important temple for the Tahitian and Hawaiian people.
When we were coming out of the little bay, we saw about 20 wild dolphins jump in the distance...we followed them and they started to jump right next to our boat! I've always loved dolphins, so this was a great experience for me! Then we went to one of the only fresh water rivers in French Polynesia. We stopped and walked around a botanical garden that had many fruits and flowers in it. We also visited another vanilla plantation.
That night was the "Polynesian Evening" at the Pearl Beach resort, so we saw some more dancing and had another buffet.

Day 12: We took the helicopter back to Bora Bora and were greeted again by our friends. We all laughed about what we had done. We couldn't get the exact same room but we got a very similar one that was also right on the beach. We went snorkeling and we just relxed the entire day. My dad and I went snorkeling a little farther out and we saw a shark...I was kind of scared! We also saw some huge fish hunting smaller ones! On the beach I found an entire cave of hermit crabs.
Again we saw the special dancing evening and ate at the good buffet. The show was even better this time because Patrick (our tour guide for the "polynesian tour" was there and he was the leader of the dancing group. He was also a fire dancer.

Day 13: just relaxed on the beach and snorkeled.

Day 14: we left Bora Bora for the airport and said our good-byes again! it was the only day when it rained. in the morning, a waitress had taken time from her time off to teach us how to make flower crowns! They are very hard to make. I wore mine until we went to the airport. Then we flew all the way home....

Overall, it was one of the best trips that we had ever been on. The Tahitian people are really friendly and the service of the hotel Bora Bora was really good. It is a truly amazing place that everyone should go to at least once in their life!
Madi Bradley
Lincoln, MA - Thursday, October 07, 2004 at 16:04:31 (EDT)
Trip Report Moorea, Bora Bora, Huahine, Tahiti August 2004

Introduction
This was our second trip to French Polynesia. Our last trip was for our honeymoon in 1991. This time we took our 8-year-old son with us. Needless to say, lots of things have changed in 13 years, while some things have remained the same.

PHL LAX PPT MOZ
Our trip started from Philadelphia on a Wed evening. We flew US Airs evening non-stop flight to LAX. Stayed overnight at the LAX Hampton Inn using FQTV points. This hotel was convenient to the airport and included free shuttle and free continental breakfast. We got a nights sleep at LAX to help avoid the exhaustion and jet lag that comes with such a long journey. I think it worked well for us and, for east coast residents, we recommend a one-night stopover at LAX if you have the time on your outbound journey.

We departed LAX on Air Tahiti Nuis 1:00pm departure. We flew on their Moorea aircraft. The flight boarded about 30 minutes late, but departed pretty close to schedule. The layout of the coach cabin is 2-4-2. Coach is divided into two sections by a bulkhead that houses lavatories at mid-cabin. Seat pitch was a few inches better than domestic U.S. carriers. Although this was ATNs newest aircraft, it did not have footrests in the coach cabin. For coach, I found the seats to be relatively comfortable. Each seat contains a personal video display on which passengers can view six different movies, listen to multiple sound tracks, play video games, and watch the GPS-based Air Show system.


The flight was about 95% full, but I had the luxury of having the seat next to me being empty. The in-flight service was exceptional. Just after takeoff, each passenger was given a Tiare Tahiti flower, a menu, and an in-flight kit (headphones, eye-shades, socks, earplugs, etc.). Each child was given a small Air Tahiti Nui backpack that contained a visor cap, and an activity book I thought this was a nice touch for the younger passengers. Two meals were served a hot lunch about 1- hours after takeoff, and a cold snack about 2 hours before arrival in Papeete. The meals were definitely better than on U.S. domestic flights, although it is difficult for me to compare as I can barely even remember the days when hot meals were served on U.S. flights. It is obvious that the in-flight crewmembers are carefully selected by ATN. Their appearance is impeccable, and their behavior was understated elegance. It was so refreshing to have an in-flight crew that obviously loved to do their job. What a concept! In-flight time was 7:55.

We arrived Papeetes Faaa Airport right on time, landing to the northeast, and back-taxiing on the runway to the terminal ramp. There are no Jetways in any airport in FP. Airstairs are used to walk down to the ramp, and then ground-crew members direct passengers to the arrivals area of the terminal. First order of business upon entering the terminal is to provide the tourism board with one of the two cards that you had to fill out while in flight. This takes just a second or two, and this is also where you select the appropriate line for Immigration. We waited in line for about 15 minutes for the Immigration officer (there was a family in front of us with some sort of documentation issue), gave him our passports, return air tickets, and the other card we had filled out on board. No questions were asked of us, our passports were stamped, and the immigration exit stub was placed in our passports note that this stub is an important document that must not be lost or misplaced, as it must be given to an immigration officer upon departing FP at the end of your trip. When you fill out your cards on the plane, be sure to include information on where you will be staying. If you are staying with friends, be sure to have their address with you, and enter that information on the card. A woman on our flight was staying with a friend and did not have her friends address with her her friend was picking her up at Moorea airport. As a result, Immigration confiscated her passport and told her that it would be returned only when she could provide her friends address. We met up with her a few days later and she said everything was OK, and she had gone back to Faaa the next morning to get it straightened out.

The next step is to retrieve your luggage from the baggage belt, and then go to the Customs officer. Here there are two lines nothing to declare, and declaring. We had nothing to declare. Unfortunately, neither did the young man who was in front of us in the line. He was traveling with a surfboard in a hard case. The Customs officer made him remove the board from the case a 10-minute process and then began to carefully examine the board as well as all the parts of the case. At this point we were starting to run a little late for what we thought was the last flight of the evening to Moorea. I politely told another Customs officer that I feared we would miss our flight, and he just waived us right around the kid with the surfboard, and right out the exit door into the terminal building.

Upon entering the terminal, I was shocked. From our trip 13 years ago, I remembered this small, poorly lit terminal building with a snack bar, a bank, a rental car desk, and a check-in counter. Later, I found out that during the anti-nuke riots in the mid-1990s, the locals had burned down the building. When the government rebuilt the terminal, they did a pretty good job. There is now a well-lit, attractive, open air terminal building with lots of retail space. We found the Banque De Polynesie just to the left of the customs exit door and exchanged about half the cash we had. The rate turned out to be about 3% worse than what Banque Socredo was offering, but we could not find their office at the time, and it turned out that Banque Socredo was closed at that hour anyway. Once our banking was done, we started wheeling our bags towards the north end of the terminal building where we found the red-paved sidewalk to the Air Moorea terminal. The distance between the terminals is about 300 yards. Just exit the main terminal on the north end just past the international check-in counters, and follow the arrows and signs to Domestic Terminal 2. Every 100 feet or so there is sign letting you know that youre on the right path. It takes about 3 minutes to walk the entire footpath.

The Air Moorea terminal hasnt changed one bit in 13 years. Its a very small open air terminal with a 2-position check-in counter, a snack bar, telephone booth and restrooms. When we arrived at the terminal around 7:45pm, a plane was just leaving for Moorea. We had booked all our inter-island flights with Air Tahiti via e-mail. Our Itinerary was Papeete Moorea Bora Bora Huahine Papeete. The fare was 35000xpf per adult, and 19200xpf for our son. Because the Air Moorea flight was a night flight, they also added another 2000xpf per person to each ticket. When I gave Air Tahiti my credit card number, I was advised that our tickets would be waiting for us at the Air Moorea ticket counter in Terminal 2. Sure enough, the Air Moorea agent went into a pouch behind the counter and all our tickets were in there. The agent checked us in for the flight to Moorea, and gave us the tickets for the remaining inter-island flights. Although we were about 25 lbs overweight on our luggage, nothing was said to us and no one ever tried to collect excess baggage fees on this, or any other flight.

At the Air Moorea counter, we purchased vouchers for our return transfers from our hotel back to Moorea Airport. With the cost of taxis being so high on Moorea, these vouchers are a very good deal. But, they can only be purchased at the Air Moorea counter in Papeete. The cost is 500xpf per adult and 250xpf per child, one way. Phone numbers are on the vouchers. Simply call one of the numbers 24-hours in advance of the time for your return transfer or better yet, ask your hotel to call for you.

While waiting for the next aircraft to Moorea, we bought a bottle of water and three prepaid phone cards at the snack bar more on phone cards later. At about 8:15pm, the Twin Otter aircraft returned from Moorea. We boarded the plane and sat in the front row with a view of the cockpit. There is a sign on board that instructs passengers not to use flash photography as it temporarily blinds the pilots. The flight was noisy but smooth, and in less than 10 minutes we were at Moorea Airport.

Upon arrival the Moorea Explorer driver met us in the terminal. Because of our late arrival, we had pre-arranged the transfer to our hotel with Moorea Explorer via e-mail for a total cost of 3000xpf including the nighttime surcharge. The driver was also waiting for several other passengers on our flight. He helped us with our luggage and then took care of our paperwork for the transfer. Our hotel was the furthest from the airport, and during the 30-minute trip we stopped at the Bali Hai, the Sheraton, and the IC Beachcomber. The biggest difference we noticed was that many sections of the road had excellent street lamps 13 years ago there werent any at all. All along the route, we could smell wood-smoke. I had forgotten that people burned their biodegradable refuse, including unwanted coconuts. This makes for a pleasant, sweet, and somewhat unique odor. It instantly brought back a flood of memories from our prior trip. At that moment, we knew we were home!


Hotel Moorea Village
We have been told that the Hotel Moorea Village is the only Tahitian owned and operated hotel on the island of Moorea. It is a very nice 2-3 star property. There is nothing fancy or pretentious about the place clean rooms, comfortable beds and good showers. On the recommendation of someone who frequently stays at this property, we booked our reservation via e-mail directly with the hotel. They would not accept our credit card for guarantee, nor would they accept any kind of deposit. We were told that the reservation is confirmed. No need for a deposit. We were advised to reconfirm via telephone approx one week prior to arrival which we did.

By the time we arrived at The Hotel Moorea Village, it was almost 9:15pm and the sidewalks had already been rolled up. But, the reception was waiting for us and knew who we were. They helped us load our bags onto an electric cart, had us climb on and took us to our room. The receptionist let us into our room, turned on the lights, asked us if we needed dinner we did not and told us that since it was so late in the evening we should do the check-in procedure at the reception desk in the morning. Mind you, these people didnt yet have our credit card number. This is the kind of place I want to do business with. E-mail and a handshake was all they wanted to guarantee that theyd be paid. As it turns out, they never did get our credit card number until we checked out, and they never had a care in the world about the situation.

Hotel Moorea Village Bungalow
We had reserved a Garden Bungalow with Kitchen. We were assigned bungalow #79 in the 3rd row, near the Northeast corner of the property. The bungalow had a large porch with a round plastic table covered with a table cloth, 4 chairs, and a clothes line and pins each bungalow, regardless of type, has its own porch with table and chairs. From the porch, you walk through the sliding glass doors into a living/dining/kitchen area with 2 single beds that doubled as sofas during the day, a small dining table large enough for 4 people, and a full kitchen with pots, pans, plates, utensils, etc. there was no oven and no microwave. In the back of the bungalow there was a bathroom with shower, plenty of towels, and a private bedroom with a queen sized bed, and a small closet with shelves. There were two full-length mirrors one in the bathroom, one in the bedroom. Electric outlets throughout the bungalow were US style, although they are 220V. There is a single outlet in the bathroom that is clearly marked as 110V that has good amperage enough to drive a 1500W hair dryer. The bedroom had windows on two sides and the main room had windows on three sides none of the windows had screens. The bedroom had a ceiling fan and a stand-up oscillating fan was provided for those sleeping in the main room. Even being in the 3rd row, we still had a partial view of the water from our porch. There was also a spigot at the bottom of the porch steps for rinsing off your feet before entering the bungalow. Overall, the room was what we expected nothing fancy, but clean and comfortable. We were very pleased with the accommodations.

Hotel Moorea Village Property
The hotel is located on the west coast of Moorea and consists of about 80 bungalows. Even with that number of rooms, we never felt like the place was too busy. The swimming pool, registration area, restaurant, and gift boutique divide the property roughly in half. All the bungalows to the south of the registration area are regular bungalows, while the north side of the property contains a combination of regular bungalows and kitchen bungalows. The bungalows are built in four loosely defined rows with the 1st row being beachfront and the 4th row being near the fence by the road. The common areas between the bungalows are grass covered with a variety of flowering plants and trees spread throughout. Small foot and cart paths run throughout the property.

Moorea Village has a relatively wide beach with a mixture of good swimming areas and good snorkeling areas. There are a few trees that overhang the beach providing adequate shade for those who want it. Young children and experienced swimmers alike will enjoy the beach and the water. There is an L-shaped dock that can be used for larger boats, or just for fish watching. On the negative side, there are few beach chairs, and some of those chairs are in need of repair. If there were one thing about this property that I would change it would be to have more beach chairs and keep them in a good state of repair. The pool area is raised up above the beach and has a small sundeck with plenty of chairs and tables. Just opposite the property is a small motu that is owned by the hotel it was once used as a private island for honeymooners. Good swimmers can easily swim out to the motu for a look around. You can also get there by canoe or kayak. The water views from the backside of the motu are excellent. If you do swim or kayak out to the motu, be sure to bring reef shoes with you. Because this hotel is on a west-facing beach, the sunsets were fantastic.

Two pay phones are located at the roadside next to the hotels main entrance. Bicycle rentals were available, and the hotel staff will assist you in booking almost any excursion or restaurant reservation. Use of outrigger canoes and kayaks is complimentary. The hotel also provides two complimentary boat rides per day to Motu Tiahura, which is located about 4 miles from the hotel at the northwest corner of Moorea opposite the defunct Club Med and the IC Beachcomber. The boat leaves around at 9:30am and brings you back to the hotel around noontime. Another boat leaves around 1:30 and brings you back to the hotel around 4:30pm. If you like, you may take the morning boat out, stay all day, and return to the hotel on the 4:30pm boat. While the boat ride alone makes the trip worthwhile, once at the motu you can swim or snorkel in crystal-clear water, sit on the beach and sunbathe, or sit in the shade at a picnic bench. If you decide to snorkel, remember to bring baguettes with you the fish are much more abundant than at the hotel itself, and they will almost eat out of your hand. We went to the motu twice during our stay once in the morning, and on another day in the afternoon.

Like many FP hotels, there was a variety of wildlife on the property. There were several families of chickens, and the roosters do start crowing around 5:30 every morning. Although we tend to sleep late at home, in FP we seemed to want to get up early. So, we didnt mind the roosters we actually relied on them as our alarm clocks. There were also a few dogs and several cats all well behaved.

Hotel Moorea Village Restaurant
Next to the swimming pool is the hotels restaurant. Breakfast is served pseudo-buffet-style outside on the deck overlooking the water. Lunch is served both inside and outside. Dinner is inside only. There are theme shows/dinners on weekends advance reservations are required. An assortment of ice cream bars is available at the restaurant bar. We only ate breakfast at the hotel. Continental breakfast was 950cfp for adults. Children under 12 are free. Continental included coffee, tea, hot chocolate, a fruit plate for each person (selection varied slightly each day), and an assortment of croissants, chocolate croissants, and baguettes. This was accompanied by butter and fruit preserves. American breakfast is available upon request for 1550cfp. Breakfast was served outdoors on the covered patio at the waters edge. Service was good and the food quality was consistent throughout our 5-day stay.

Hotel Moorea Village Service
All of the HMV staff members are very friendly and very helpful. Most spoke at least some English, and several spoke fluent English, so there was never a problem with communication. There was some confusion about an excursion we booked, but as I was present when the hotel originally called the tour operator to book the excursion, it appears that the error was on the part of the operator, and not the hotel. Maid service was courteous and efficient. Any questions posed to staff members were answered quickly and professionally. Tips were graciously accepted by some, and politely refused by others. Much better service than we are accustomed to receiving at many hotels in the USA. We will definitely return to the Hotel Moorea Village. For the price, we feel it is an exceptional value.

Hotel Moorea Village Surrounding Area, Restaurants and Shops
There is a variety of shops, restaurants, roulottes, snacks and a magasin just to the north of the Hotel Moorea Village. The magasin was less than a ten-minute walk from the hotel. There we bought baguettes, wine, cheese, etc. and several afternoons we enjoyed a light lunch on our porch. On two afternoons, we ate lunch at Le Sylesie, a Patisserie about a 5-minute walk north of the hotel. Le Sylesie served sandwiches, crepes and the like. We fell in love with their bacon and egg sandwiches served on baguettes a BLT and egg sandwich. For dinner, we tried Coco Disles Snack Restaurant that served delicious Pizzas, and there was another snack near next to the magasin where we had pasta and steak on two evenings. Of the places we tried, the best dinner we had was from the Royal Chicken Roulotte (a.k.a. The Chicken Man), located about a 5 minute walk north of Hotel Moorea Village. There were several other restaurants that we did not try, all within a 10-minute walk of the hotel. Average Snack restaurant dinners were 6000cfp for the three of us, including beer and soda. Chicken Man was 1800cfp for a whole roasted chicken, French-fries, and rosemary potatoes. Lunch at the Patisserie was around 2500cfp including sodas.

Another 5 minutes up the road was Le Petite Village that had a market, a few restaurants, internet caf, a bank, and several other shops. There we bought a few souvenirs, post cards, etc.

Our favorite shop was Dany Creations. This is one of the first businesses you run across while walking north from the hotel. Here we bought several solitaire black pearl necklaces and bracelets. This shop had a wide variety of arts, crafts and jewelry in a large range of prices. We definitely recommend that you drop by for a look if you do, take notice of the large rock carving out front.

Being in the northwest corner of Moorea, we were really surprised at the number and variety of businesses located within easy walking distance of the hotel. With the exception of a large supermarket, the area has everything youre likely to need.

Moorea Excursions
We were originally scheduled to take Dr. Pooles Dolphin and Whale Watching Excursion. This is supposed to be one of the best excursions on Moorea. But, we decided to cancel due to conflicts in our schedule. We had also booked a 4x4 safari on Moorea, but the tour operator cancelled at the last minute. As a result, we ended up not doing any excursions on Moorea.

Telephones and Internet
Many hotels have in-room, direct dial telephones. However, the cost is usually very high. Pay phones are easily found in FP, and for travelers, these are often the least expensive option for phone calls.

All payphones in FP operate using phone cards they do not have coin boxes. There is only one phone company. Accordingly, there is only one type of phone card. Phone cards cost 1550cfp for 40 units. They can be purchased just about everywhere banks, post offices, airports, boutiques, magasins, etc. Cost of calls varies by destination. Using a phone card, calls within a single island (or single island group) are 3 minutes for 1 unit. Calls to other islands (or other island groups) cost a little more. Calls from FP to the USA are 20 seconds for 1 unit or about 115cfp per minute. Compare that to the 1000cfp + per minute that hotels get for calls to the USA, and youll be running for the phone booth.

If you absolutely cant live without the Internet, its available, but it is expensive. Internet access is getting pretty common at least within the Society Islands. On Moorea, we saw several cafs that offered Internet service for around 300cfp for 15 minutes. Many hotels also offer Internet service. In Huahine, our hotel offered Internet service at 500cfp for 15 minutes. At our hotel in Bora Bora, a phone company supplied Internet PC was located in the lobby, and it ran on phone cards if I recall correctly, the first 30 seconds are free, and then every 3 minutes costs 1 unit. Typical connection speed is 56k. PCs use French keyboards, so some of the keys are in a different location than what you are likely accustomed to, and some keys have up to four different letters/symbols on them. We had to ask someone to show us how to type @.

MOZ BOB
After 5 days on Moorea, sadly, it was time to leave for Bora Bora. We arranged our pre-paid transfer the night before using Torea Nui Transports. This is the company that participates in Air Mooreas transfer program. The cost to/from Moorea Airport to any hotel on the island is 500cfp per adult, and 250cfp per child on a one-way basis. The only catch is that tickets can only be purchased at the Air Moorea counter in Terminal 2 at Papeete. The phone number to call for the return trip is right on the transfer ticket. The transfer van arrived right on time. On the way to the airport we made two stops at other hotels to pick up more travelers.

Air Tahiti recommends checking-in 1 hour prior to departure. The check-in process was quick and painless especially since they did not charge us for our overweight bags. Since we were traveling with our 8-year-old son, at boarding time, the agent pointed at us and asked us to step forward. We were the first to board. The same thing happened on all the remaining Air Tahiti flights. All our Air Tahiti flights were operated with ATR-72 aircraft. All appeared to be well maintained. None were more than five years old yes, I actually checked the manufactures plates.

Our flight made an en-route stop at Raiatea. We sat on the left side of the plane for the best views of both Raiatea and Bora Bora. The standard approach to Raiatea includes a 270-degree left-hand turn, so you get a fabulous view of the island and its lagoon from the left side. Departure gives you a brief view of Tahaa too. On approach to Bora Bora, it was raining, but we still got a pretty good look at the island from the air. Bora Boras standard approach includes a 180-degree left-hand turn. Again, the views from the left side of the plane were fabulous.

Bora Boras airport is on a motu at the very north end of the island. All passengers must be transported by Air Tahitis boat from the airport to the main town of Vaitape. For those staying at the 5-star properties, each hotels private launch will meet you at the airport and take you directly to your hotel. We were staying at Le Maitai, so we took Air Tahitis boat. At the airport, we retrieved our bags from the luggage rack and took them just a few feet to one of the porters for the boat. The porters handled our bags from there and returned them to us in Vaitape. The Air Tahiti boats are relatively new, very comfortable, with large windows and air conditioning. Passengers have the option of sitting outside on the upper level. The views from the boat during the trip are fabulous in my opinion, the colors of the water near the airport are among the prettiest of the whole island. Upon arrival in Vaitape, the hotels driver met us, got our bags, and drove us to the hotel a 10-minute trip. Note that we had pre-arranged transfers directly with the hotel for a fee. At the hotel, we were met by reception and taken to a lounge in the lobby where we given a welcome cocktail and our registration paperwork. Once registration was complete, a bellman loaded us and our bags onto an electric cart and drove us to our room. A short time later, a delicious fruit plate was delivered to our room as a welcome gift. Total en-route time door to door was about 3 hours.

Le Maitai Bora Bora Bungalow and Property
We booked Le Maitai because they offered a very attractive price on their over-water bungalows. The hotel is located on the east side of Matira Point and is actually on both sides of the road. The main restaurant, lobby, garden view and ocean view rooms are located on the mountain side of the road, while the beach, beachfront and OWBs are located on the lagoon side of the road. The hotel itself is only a few years old. There are three pontoons of OWBs. Two pontoons were built when the hotel was opened, and the third was added recently. We were assigned room 108 on the new pontoon. Our room location was one of the best offered by this hotel. It faced straight out towards the Sofitel Motu and had complete privacy within the room unless someone was kayaking directly in front of the sundeck. However, you don't have a lot of privacy on the deck as the rooms are relatively close to one another. It looks like 106, 107 and 108 are the best of the OWBs as far as location goes.

Our room had a large main room with a desk and chair, telephone, television (3 channels) king bed, day bed/couch, mini-bar, and coffee table with a glass floor underneath. Lighting was very good. There were three windows on one side of the room and sliding glass doors to the sundeck and swimming platform. The bathroom had a good-sized changing area, closet, safe, sink, and shower. The toilet is in a separate small WC near the main room door. The room was well maintained, although the humid environment had taken its toll on the wooden doors. The OWBs have a decent sized deck with two lounge chairs and small table. From there, you step down to a lower level swim platform that has a ladder to get back out of the water and a warm water shower for rinsing. It was really nice to be able to open your door and dive right off the platform into the water.

The beach area of the hotel had a small bar and activities desk where guests could get complimentary kayaks and canoes. There is also an excursion desk in the lobby. The beach is manmade and very narrow but was a nice place to get a tan and swim just the same. Plenty of beach chairs were provided. Beach towels were available at the beach bar, and the hotel is very careful about accounting for them they use a laminated card with your room number on it that must be exchanged for beach towels. There was also a dock between the OWB pontoons that was used by the excursion boats. Depending on where your room is located, it can be a 1 or 2 minute walk from your room to the lobby building the property is spread out along a long section of beachfront. Note for those considering beachfront rooms; be aware that they back up directly to the road. We did not venture into the garden/ocean-view buildings at all so we dont know what they are like, but they are built a few stories up into the hillside and look like they would provide nice views.

Breakfast is served in Le Maitais main restaurant in the lobby building. Lunch and dinner are served at the beachfront restaurant, and nightly musical entertainment was provided. Two nights per week the hotel has traditional feasts and dance shows. These are done in the main restaurant near the lobby. The shows are performed on a sand stage at the edge of the dining room. We did not eat any of our meals at the hotel restaurants. However, we did go to the traditional Bora Bora dance show at the main restaurant one evening, even though we did not eat at the feast. Several other people did the same.

Le Maitai Bora Bora Surrounding Area, Shops and Restaurants
Almost all of the mainland hotels, restaurants, shops etc. are located in the Matira area of Bora Bora, which is about a 5 minute drive south of the main town of Vaitape. Matira is literally a point and a long and narrow point at that. The west side of the point has the Hotel Bora Bora, a large public beach, Chez Nono Pension, and two small snack restaurants. The east side of Matira is where most of the mainland hotels and pensions are located, including Le Maitai. The one thing we did not remember from our last trip is that the east side of Matira Point is often exposed to constant and strong winds. Unfortunately, the sliding glass doors of our bungalow faced directly into the wind. For this reason, we could not leave the doors open more than a crack most of the time. Also, because of the wind, the water was somewhat rough. It was swimable, but not quite what we expected for a lagoon that is protected by a reef. However, this is not unique to Le Maitai. It appears that the Sofitel, Sofitel Motu, Beachcomber, Club Med, Bora Bora Beach Lodge, etc. all have this same issue to contend with. The wind did keep the temperatures comfortable during the day, but it made things a little cool on some nights.

After a few days in Bora Bora, we realized the there is a side street at the very southern end of the island. At first glance, this road looks like it is the driveway to the IC Beachcomber. However, it is not. It is a public street that leads to a beautiful public beach complete with pavilion, payphone, bathrooms, outdoors shower, etc. This beach is on the west side of the point and is protected from the wind. The water is not deeper than six feet or so, and it continues at that depth all the way out to the reef. This is the beach that Chez Nono is on. I cannot believe that we never found this on our first trip to Bora Bora, and that we almost missed it this time too!

There is a well-stocked magasin about a 6 or 7-minute walk north of Le Maitai they accept Visa for purchases of 2000cfp or more. On Bora Bora, we ate all our breakfasts and most lunches in our room using supplies bought at the market. The first day we bought cereal, juice, milk, butter, jams, crackers, cheese, etc. We went back to the market first thing every morning to get juice, fresh baguettes, croissants and chocolate croissants. The mini bar in our room was cold enough to keep the milk and butter from going bad.

On our first night on Bora Bora, we went to Restaurant La Bounty and immediately fell in love with the place. Their menu includes pastas, seafood, steaks, chicken, and a few local specialties. For a small restaurant, they had a decent selection of bottled wines, and offered table wines by the glass, , and full liters. The waiter and waitress were wonderful. The next night we decided to go back, and most of the other people in the restaurant were also repeat guests from the night before. In the end, we ate at La Bounty all five nights of our stay. The average bill for the three of us was 7000cfp, including drinks and deserts.

On one of the days we were in Bora Bora, we rented a car from the car rental at Le Maitai. Cost for a 4-door compact, manual, with air, was 10000cfp for 24 hours. We drove around the island and stopped in Vaitape to shop a bit, and had lunch at a roadside snack in town. The next morning we went back into town to take some pictures and go to the bank. Other than renting the car, we did not take any excursions on Bora Bora.

BOB HUH
Our trip from Bora Bora to Huahine was painless. Our hotel arranged for our transfer to the quay in Vaitape. We arrived at the quay about 15 minutes prior to the boat departure. Weather was much better that day than the day we had arrived Bora Bora. The boat ride was spectacular, especially at the north end of the island near the airport. We arrived at the airport about 45 minutes prior to our flights departure time. Porters handled our bags from Vaitape to within 50 feet of the check-in counter. Again, we were not charged for our overweight luggage. Again, because we were traveling with a child, we were told to board first. For departures from Bora Bora, the right side of the plane is usually best and we were not disappointed that day as we got a long last look at this gorgeous island. Flight time to Huahine is about 20 minutes.

On arrival at Huahine, we were met by a driver hired by our hotel we had pre-arranged transfers directly with our hotel. The ride from the airport to the Relais Mahana is about 30 minutes, and much of this trip was along inland hillside roads through very lush terrain. Total en-route time door to door was just under 3 hours.

Relais Mahana Hotel Bungalow and Property
The Relais Mahana hotel is a 3-star property owned and operated by a French family. It is located on the far southwest end of the island on beautiful Avea Bay, is rather isolated, and very quiet. Upon arrival at the hotel, we were given a cool wet washcloth to refresh ourselves while we completed the registration process. The receptionist then helped us take our luggage to our room. We were assigned a large beachfront bungalow (#21). The large bungalows are two rooms to a building. We had no neighbors for the first 3 nights. Our room was simply decorated, but had everything we needed: 2 double beds, night stands on both sides of each bed, ceiling fans over each bed, large closet cabinet to hang and store our clothes, a medium-sized refrigerator that doubled as a mini-bar, table, two chairs, and a bathroom with shower. Each bungalow had a private front porch with a plastic table and four chairs. There was a rinse off spigot in front of each room.

The large bungalows are located to the north of reception and the restaurant. These bungalows are about 3 feet above beach level, and a small stone wall separates the grounds from the beach. There were steps down to the beach right in front of our bungalow and the steps were lit at nighttime. The regular bungalows are all located to the south of reception and they have a wide regular beach (no stone wall needed). Plenty of beach chairs were found all along the waterfront. Beach towels were provided at check-in. There was plenty of coral for snorkeling, and plenty of coral free areas for swimming. Watercolors, while not as spectacular as Bora Bora, were very pretty. Sunsets were beautiful especially so on the second night we were there.

Just behind the reception area is a small swimming pool we didnt see anyone use it during the 5 days we were there. A small boutique was open a few hours a day. A EuropeCar agent was also in the lobby during the morning to arrange for rentals cars were picked up and returned at the hotel. A single Internet access computer was located in the lobby. Behind the lobby, near the beach, is the bar and restaurant. In that same area was an excursion and beach activities desk. Complimentary beach activities included paddleboats, kayaks, snorkel gear and bicycles. Motor scooters and mountain bikes can also be rented here. A dive center is located near the beach. A certified dive instructor runs this separately from the hotel, but dives can be charged to your room account. In front of the restaurant was an L-shaped dock that was lit at night.

Relais Mahana Hotel Restaurant
Because of the isolated location of this hotel, we ate a lot of our meals at the hotel restaurant. Breakfast was buffet style at 1540cfp per person and was served inside. Buffet selection was very good meats, cheeses, cereals, juices, coffee, tea, hot chocolate, fresh baked breads and croissants, etc. Bacon and eggs were available upon request at no additional charge. Lunch was a la carte, and was served either inside, or on the patio next to the beach. Pizzas, burgers, steak sandwiches, salads, etc. were offered for lunch around 5500cfp for the three of us. Dinners were very good, although the menu featured mostly seafood. Dinners ran about 9500cfp for the three of us. There was a limited childrens menu during dinner.

Relais Mahana Hotel Surrounding Area, Restaurants and Shops
Due to the isolated location, there were very limited services in the surrounding area. A pension with a very good restaurant was located about 1 km to the north of the Relais Mahana. We walked there one day to check it out. IMHO, it was nice, but kind of strange. Toilets and showers were separate from the bungalows. The restaurant looked nice, but it was expensive and the menu had mostly seafood items if you cant tell by now, Im not a seafood fan. We ended up not eating there.

Directly next to the Relais Mahana was a small family owned restaurant. Their only business appeared to come from a limited number of guests from our hotel. The service was very friendly. The food was hit or miss. My wife had a chow mien dish that she really liked, and on another night she had a chicken dish that she thought was very good too. They offered us a complimentary fried breadfruit appetizer that was delicious. However, the first night we ate there I ordered a steak. It had been soaked in salt Im not exaggerating. I am usually very easy to please at a dinner table, but this steak was just not edible. The next day I was not feeling well, and I skipped dinner altogether. I suspect, but cannot prove, that the cause of my sickness was the steak. Dinner cost about 5500cfp for the three of us.

The only other nearby business was a very small magasin about 2 km south of the hotel on the other side of the point. I road a bicycle there to buy some snacks one morning, but found almost nothing on the shelves. Bread had to be ordered and paid for 1 day in advance. They did not have croissants or cigarettes.

Huahine Excursions
Because we did not do any real excursions on Moorea or Bora Bora, we had quite a bit of money leftover in our excursion budget by the time we got to Huahine, so we did three excursions.

Huahine Huahine Nautique Jet Ski Safari
We took the afternoon Jet Ski tour offered by Huahine Nautique. This tour included a transfer to Fare. From there you started on a high speed ride through the bays of the island, under the bridge between Huhine Nui and Huahine Iti, to a stunning coral garden on the west side of Huahine Iti. There the guide stops for about 20 minutes of snorkeling. Then, the high-speed chase continues south through very shallow crystal clear light-blue water where we saw several schools of eagle rays. After a brief pause at the motu where the picnic excursions are held, we continued back to Avea bay and stopped at the pension next to our hotel for a cocktail. Our guide spoke fluent English and French, and he was acting as the interpreter for conversations around the table. Finally we left the pension, and again went full blast all the way back to Huahine Nautiques base at Fare. From there we were transferred by boat back to our hotel beer, soda and water were provided en-route. Personally, I would have liked to have done this tour a little more slowly, or at least make more stops to enjoy the scenery. Im not a wimp when it comes to high-speed Jet Ski rides, but we didnt have much opportunity to enjoy the view when we were going 50 knots. The snorkel stops and the eagle rays were fantastic though, and our guide was really good. Cost was $200USD per ski.

Huahine Scuba Mahana Single Tank Dive
It had been more than 20 years since I last went diving. At that time I had received my PADI certification, but I never did anything after my checkout dives. When planning this trip, I had no intention of diving, but I decided to speak to the dive instructor [Annie?] at the Relais Mahana to see what had changed in the last 20 years. She told me that the only real change is that now everyone uses PBDs. I talked to her a bit and told her my situation. She already had a beginner diver going on a trip that next morning and suggested that I come along. The price was very reasonable at 5900cfp for a single tank dive including all equipment. I decided to give it a try again, and I was very glad that I did. Annie was great! She never tried to push either of us to do anything we werent comfortable with. She kept constant watch on us to make sure we werent getting ourselves into trouble. She brought bread with her to attract fish and we got a really good show. Max depth was 45 feet. Dive lasted about 40 minutes.

Huahine Island Eco-Tours Morning Tour
About a week before we left for FP, someone told me about this relatively unknown tour operator on Huahine. I e-mailed him, and he quickly responded with long description of his two tours. The morning tour included more historical information and we decided to do that tour. I called him from the Relais Mahana in Huahine and booked the tour. Because of the remote location of the Realais Mahana, the tour departs at 7:45am. This means that you have to eat a light and fast breakfast. We then went to Fare to pick up another couple from the Te Tiare boat dock. From there we went up to Maeva for the tour itself.

The tour guide is Paul Atallah and he is the owner/operator. He grew up in California, and spent time in Hawaii and FP when he was young. He attended the University of Hawaii, majoring in Polynesian Anthropology and Archaeology. He lives on Huahine, is married to a Polynesian woman, and has a young child.

The tour includes a bit of walking, some of it up pretty steep hills. It includes Maeva Village; archaeological sites, marae, fish traps, Fare Potee Cultural Centre, Matairea Hill, Te Ana (prehistoric habitation area which includes marae, house sites, agricultural terraces and burial platforms), vanilla farming, botany and a beautiful view point overlooking the motu and lagoon of Faie, We also made a stop to see the Giant Blue Eyed Eels, and finally we went to Belvedere the lookout for Maroe Bay. The tour lasted just about 4 hours. On the way back to our hotel, at our request, Paul stopped in Fare so we could go to the grocery. Excellent tour! Paul can be contacted at islandecotours@mail.pf, or via telephone at (689) 68.79.67.

In addition to these tours, we rented a car one afternoon and ate dinner in Fare. The rental agent at the Relais Mahana was flexible in that we completed the rental paperwork in the morning while the agent was at the hotel, but our 4-hour rental did not start until 4pm. The agent left the keys with reception, and we got the keys from there when we took the car in the afternoon. Note: The gas station in Huahine close at 5pm. We drove up to the Sofitel to see if the place had changed since out honeymoon trip 13 years ago. It had changed significantly, and not for the better. Rumor now has it that if a buyer is not found by December 2004, the place will close. We then went to Fare to the market and a very brief shopping trip, followed by a delicious dinner at Snack Te Marara right next to the dock. All three of us had filet, and they were the best steaks we had on the whole trip. Cost was 7900cfp including drinks and tip. We returned the car to the hotel after reception had closed for the evening, and left the keys in the EuropeCar desk drawer. Cost for the rental was 6700cfp for a 4-door, manual with air, for four hours including all insurance and tax.

HUH PPT
On our last day in FP, we took the early morning flight to Papeete. The hotel arranged the transfer to the airport and we left the hotel before breakfast. Same procedure as the other Air Tahiti flights. The only difference on this flight was that we were the second to board. The honor of boarding first was given to a prisoner being transported to Papeete by the Gendarme under armed guard. For a guy who was under arrest, he seemed quite pleasant, happy, and un-concerned. We sat on the right side to get the best views of Moorea on the way past, but it was cloudy so it didnt matter. Flight time was 35 minutes. When we arrived Papeete, almost the entire fleet of Air Tahiti was there only one aircraft was missing. Total en-route time: 2 hours.

Tahiti
At Faaa, we stored our bags at the storage facility. Cost was 3500cfp for 5 bags. We then had a leisurely breakfast at the snack bar in the main terminal, and rented a car from EuropeCar for the day. Cost for the rental was 11600cfp for a 4-door, manual with air, for 24 hours including all insurance, tax and unlimited mileage. It would have cost half as much without the unlimited mileage, but we knew we wanted to drive all the way around the island.

Leaving the airport, we drove downtown, parked near the Cathedral, and walked over to the Marche. We spent about two hours there buying souvenirs for us, and gifts for friends and family. On the way back to our car, we got a light lunch at a snack bar near the Hinano store.

We drove around the island in a counter-clockwise direction. Along the route, we stopped at the lookout next to the old Hyatt Regency, and at a black-sand beach near a blowhole about 25 km outside of Papeete. Other than that, we just enjoyed the scenery and took a nice slow drive around the island. Once outside the city, the road on the north side of the island was narrow with many tight turns. We passed an area near Tahiti Iti where the road had been washed out and there was ongoing construction to repair the road and shore up the hillside. Once past Tahiti-Iti, the road was in good shape, with less turns, and faster speed limits. The south side of the island also offered good views of a few waterfalls. We stopped every so often to take picture and stretch our legs. Im glad we drove around the island, but we would probably not do it again.

We returned to Papeete just before dinner, filled the gas tank, and then went searching for a place to eat dinner. Along the way we passed Lou Pescadous restaurant. We had eaten there 13 years before, and decided this would be a good place for our last supper in FP. This is great little Italian restaurant two blocks from the cathedral. All three of us had a different type of pasta dish, and we shared. Cost was 4000cfp including drinks and tip. This is great food at a great price.

PPT LAX PHL
We got to the airport around 7:30pm, returned the car, got our bags and stood in line for check-in for our 10:00pm departure. There was some confusion because there were two ATN flights leaving for LAX. We started off in the wrong line, but quickly figured out where we needed to go. Because we were traveling with a child, the ATN rep took us out of the line and sent us to the first class check-in line. The check-in process at Faaa is a little different. First you go through security where all of your bags are x-rayed, and then are sent to the check-in counter located in a secure area. The ATN rep checked our luggage all the way through to Philadelphia. After check-in, you leave the secure area and wait in the main terminal for your flight to be called. When the announcement is made, you go to immigration, and then through another security checkpoint where your carry-on luggage is screened. From there you are sent to the departure lounge. All of this takes about an hour.

We waited in the departure lounge for about a half hour before boarding. The boarding process was somewhat chaotic because it seems that Americans just dont pay attention to announcements. When the pre-boarding announcement was made, almost every passenger got up and mobbed the gate. There was no single line, just a sea of people all trying to merge together through one gate. We just waited patiently, and eventually we got on the plane. Tahiti Tiare flowers were given to us as we boarded. There was plenty of overhead space remaining even though we boarded last. The flight was almost completely full, although I again had an empty seat next to me. Our return aircraft was the Bora Bora. This aircraft did have footrests in coach and it really helped to keep my legs comfortable. The flight left on time. In-flight service included a light dinner served just after takeoff, and a breakfast that was served about 2 hours prior to landing at LAX. Same great service as we experienced on the outbound flight. We arrived LAX about 15 minutes early. In flight time was 7 hours and 50 minutes.

Upon arrival at LAX, we ran into a bit of trouble. About 1 hour before our flight landed, there had been a breach of security at LAX. Also, some old batteries in a tourists flashlight had exploded at a security checkpoint about a half hour before we landed. As a result, all terminals at LAX had been evacuated. When we arrived at the gate we were told that we could not get off the aircraft. During our wait, I had called US Air to find out the status of our connecting flight to Philadelphia. We were assured that it was leaving on time OUCH! We waited for almost 2 hours before we were finally allowed off. Now, imagine what would happen if not one plane could disembark for almost 3 hours, and then suddenly the floodgates were opened. You guessed right: Immigration, baggage claim and Customs was inundated with passengers. To add to our own problems, our bags were the very last to come off our flight. When we finally got out of customs we were told not to use the connecting baggage belts. So, we had to wheel our bags all the way to Terminal 1 for our connecting flight that was due to depart in 35 minutes! Using a bus was out of the question and the number of people on the sidewalks outside the terminals made the customs hall look like a picnic.

We arrived at Terminal 1 about 10 minutes before our flight was to have left. At this point we hadnt slept in about 28 hours and our adrenaline was pumping big-time. We got in line at the ticket counter and noticed much to our dismay all the flight status screens showed almost every flight being on time. The line was not long and it only took a few minutes for us to reach a check-in agent. It was then after almost 3 hours of panicking about missing our connection that we were told that ALL flights were delayed. Our connecting flight left about 2 hours late thank God but we arrived home only 1 hour later than planned.

Final Thoughts
We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves on this trip. FP is so naturally relaxing that we almost completely forgot about work, our house, and our real life. We have already committed to doing another FP trip in 2005, and have already begun making reservations.

This was our second trip to FP. For the first trip, we went first class all the way it was our honeymoon. For this trip, we did moderate accommodations, and actually had a better time. We now feel that it isnt the resorts that makes FP so wonderful. Its really all about the country and its people. When we go back next year, well do a slightly shorter trip. We plan on doing Moorea and Bora Bora. We will again stay at Hotel Moorea Village, but on Bora Bora weve decided to stay in a beachfront bungalow at Chez Nono. Also, we hope that by next August ATN will have started their non-stop flights from New York. This will shorten our travel time by about 5 hours each way and will help to avoid the stress of connecting at LAX.

A special thanks to all of those on this board who helped make this trip possible:
Yves
BarbJKM
Hamara
Meherio
3Kids
LD
Linda B
NG
Pacific Andy

I hope I havent forgotten anyone. If I did, please accept my most sincere apologies.

Links
Air Tahiti Nui www.flyatn.com
Air Tahiti www.airtahiti.aero/home.php
Moorea Explorer moorea.explorer@mail.pf
Dr. Pooles Whale and Dolphin Excursion criobe@mail.pf
Le Maitai Bora Bora http://www.hotelmaitai.com/bora/us/index.htm
Relais Mahana Huahine http://www.relaismahana.com/
Huahine Nautique http://www.huahine-nautique.com/home.htm
Paul Atallah at Island Eco-Tours islandecotours@mail.pf
Banque Socredos current exchange rates http://www.banque-socredo.pf/socredo/websoc2.nsf/getdevises?openagent

Ed Kocher
NJ USA - Friday, October 01, 2004 at 15:14:13 (EDT)
French Polynesia August 20-September 7, 2004

First Id like to thank all the helpful people who took the time to answer my numerous questions posted on Cruise Critic, Tahiti-Explorer and the newest board, LCT, and to my fabulous Certified Cruise Consultant for their valuable advise that helped me plan this extraordinary vacation for my husband and myself. Well call it our Pre 40th Anniversary Trip, since we met 40 years ago and will celebrate our anniversary on January 2, 2005.

Since our trip, but prior to my finishing this report, the news of the sale of the RSSC Paul Gauguin has been announced. My recommendation to anyone who has been contemplating a cruise in French Polynesia is to book a vacation on this ship while you can. RSSC will be operating her through 2005. The friendly crew, Les Gauguins, Siglo (the band), Motu Mahana, the private beach on Bora Bora and the fantastic food all played such a special part in making this vacation a tropical dream come true.

We flew out of Detroit (DTW) the afternoon of August 19th, and enjoyed a complimentary overnight room and buffet breakfast at the LAX Hilton thanks to RSSC. We opted to eat dinner at the Hilton after a brief walk on the sidewalks surrounding it. The dinner was fine, service excellent ($50 including tip).

Check-in and Security at LAX is definitely more complex and confusing than at DTW, but we maneuvered through it. Our Air Tahiti Nui flight in economy class would have been nicer if the individual monitors were working properly. We had picture but no sound. This was true for about 20% of the aircraft, including some rows in business class. The crew tried their best to accommodate us and allowed seat switching. I watched 1 video during the flight. By the time the 3rd round of tapes would normally begin playing an attendant announced their apologies and said that due to broken tapes there would be no more videos. (You could still play the games if your controller worked.) The meals were adequate in economy, nothing to write about.

Arrival in Papeete - Immigration seemed to take forever. European and local citizens breezed through while it took nearly an hour for the rest of us. After retrieving our 2 checked bags we were simply waved through Customs. Being near the end of the line, and making a stop at the bank to exchange $200 in American Express travelers checks (yes, travelers checks get a better exchange rate than cash) made us the last ones to connect with Tahiti Nui Travel for transport to the Beachcomber. This was actually nice because we were in a mini-van rather than a large bus. Check-in at the Beachcomber was a breeze and they had our luggage in our room within 10 minutes. We were informed that there would be a Tahitian Show, poolside at 8:00pm. Having eaten a meal on the flight at 4:30pm we felt no need to purchase the dinner buffet so we requested seating in the bar area to view the show. (Cost for 1 drink and cover charge was just over $20; we considered this a bargain for the show that got us right into the mood of a Polynesian vacation.) Shortly before the show began another American couple sat down behind us and a young man said Kathy? It was Rob (aka Robbo1) with his wife, Mary. It sure is nice having our avatars posted on LCT. Rob was the first of six people to identify me over the next two weeks. (We have a lot of lurkers on these boards that have not yet posted. They are all delightful people.) The only negatives with our room at the Beachcomber were lack of adequate closet space (which was no problem for our overnight, but would be for a 4 day pre-cruise), and location of our room right over the bar area. I finally fell asleep with the aid of a sleeping pill about 11:30pm (5:30am Eastern time) while the band was still playing. The hotel property itself is beautiful, especially around the infinity pool.

Embarkation - A full busload of people left the Beachcomber bound for RSSC Paul Gauguin at 3:00pm. Bill & I were ready early and got front seats on the bus. This made it easy to identify our luggage at the pier and walk up the gangway with our carry-on. Check-in was a breeze and within 15 minutes our luggage was in our cabin and we were verifying our pre-booked (via Internet) shore excursions with the Tour Desk. I selected a few videos to have available in our cabin, a book on Bora Bora that was nice to view prior to arriving there plus another book that I returned, mostly unread, near the end of our trip. RSSC includes an in-cabin bar set up with your selection of 2 large bottles of liquor per cruise. We had selected Kahlua & vodka for our first week and Ameretto (considered premium, so it counts as 2) for the second week (we were doing a back to back cruise). They were kind enough to give us the entire liquor allowance at the beginning. (We ended up giving most of this to the crew at the end of the 2 weeks, there is just so much offered in the dining rooms and special functions that we barely touched these bottles. I had read on one of these boards to give leftover liquor to the Cruise Director who would see that it got to the crew bar. When I tried to verify this with Steve he thought it was hysterical, as he had never heard of this. He had fun asking the Hotel Manager and Social Hostess how did this rumor ever get started on the Internet. We decided to pass our bottles on to the Social Hostess who assured us that it would be used at the monthly crew party.)

While we were touring the ship we met Chaun (aka Critter) and her group of female family & friends (11 in total). What a friendly, lively, fun-loving group of ladies! They had a different theme for every day with a nice way of sharing much of the fun with everyone else. By the end of the week the crew and fellow passengers were applauding them when they entered LEtoile for dinner. Chaun is worried that eventually I will learn how to post photos and provide an example of some of their get-ups. The crew was definitely sad to see them leave the ship.

We chose to eat dinner in LEtoile every night for our first week onboard and then made reservations for Apicius and Le Grill for the 2 evenings that had our least favorite menus. This was a hard decision to make because everything was so delicious! Imagine 2 weeks of omelet centered breakfasts, buffet lunches and 4 & 5 course dinners and all you have to do is decide what you care to order. If you cant decide between two favorites its no problem just order both and enjoy! Somehow I only put on 1 pound with all of this indulgence. The ships stairs provide a good substitute for a Stairmaster. Ill only mention my very favorite menu items, but I kept a complete set of menus so I can answer any questions.

Several members of the crew are introduced at the sail-away party including the lovely and talented Les Gauguines. This party went on for a long time on 8-21 because some passengers were coming in on a delayed flight. Friday we had sat behind a honeymoon couple from Dallas on the flight from LAX and their luggage had not yet caught up with them. When the final Saturday flight arrived their luggage was still missing. Their clothes were laundered for them while they slept, and next morning when the Children of Raiatea came to perform they brought the missing luggage.

Raiatea - We were up on the pool deck to see the Children of Raiatea perform and I moved up closer to get photos and sat down on the deck next to a young woman who turned and looked at me and said Hi, Kathy. Thats how I met Travelchik. The youngest dancer was a cute little 2 year old. They are never sure just what dance she will do, but she does enjoy performing! I was one of the passengers chosen for a dance lesson so Bill took some photos of my inept attempts. Before we left the pool area we met a family of 4 from Chicago and during our conversation the woman asked if I posted on Cruise Critic. She had read it extensively but never posted. I encouraged her to become a member and post. I wont embarrass you by writing your name, but please introduce yourself to the others reading this. Meeting you and your husband and sons enriched our week.

Immediately after the show and lunch we went on our first excursion where we met Diane (1dolphinblue) & Ted who share our love for snorkeling. They celebrated their 10th wedding anniversary plus Dianes birthday while onboard. (Diane got to pick out some beautiful pearl jewelry on her birthday!)

Tahaa = Motu Mahana - I had read a great deal about this truly special experience and I can truly say that we agree with all the positive reviews it has received. We were on the first tender over and found chairs under an umbrella at the waters edge. Private tropical island with food, drink, restroom facilities, recreation equipment; lagoon for snorkeling, swimming or kayaking; lots of happy people what a way to relax and enjoy life!

Bora Bora - Everything that has been said about the varying shades of blue in the waters of Bora Bora is so true. The colors are extraordinary! The gorgeous water with the lush green mountains behind is a photographers delight.

This is where the folks that did the Off Road Adventure had a star sighting when Pierce Brosnan and his wife, Keely Shaye Smith, went by in another 4-wheeler. Pierce and Keely were standing with arms up in the air (as one might expect of 007) while our shipmates were hanging on for dear life. We had opted for the Land & Sea Safari which provided enough 4-wheeler adventure for me plus the snorkeling that we so enjoy. The only slight disappointment was that we did not see any large eels as many have seen on this excursion because it was afternoon and morning tours had fed them so much that they could not be enticed out of hiding.

Our second day on Bora Bora was overcast with occasional light showers. Despite the clouds, we had our second favorite excursion of the cruise this morning, the Shark & Ray Feeding. One of the descriptions I had read said something about standing behind a rope. Well, no rope on our tour! The captain kidded around and said that they required a white person to enter the water first as a sacrifice. Well, two French guys had lined up to get in first, but had second thoughts and turned to me, so I got to be the first person into the water! What fun! There were ample opportunities to hand feed small fish to the stingrays that also enjoy rubbing up against people. The guides tossed food to the black tip reef sharks, but the sharks were not hand fed. We got some underwater photos of the sharks as close as 5 or 6 feet away, but they swam even closer to a few folks at times. The honeymooning couple with the delayed luggage got a big surprise when two black tip reef sharks swam up to just about two feet away from their faces before turning away. My husband and I were standing in the water at the time and I said to Bill "Chris is in for a big surprise". The next thing we heard was "Holy S#*!" When he and Ava stood up he started telling us about this big shark that swam right up to "this close" and about five of us were laughing and said we knew all about it. That's when he learned that we could hear his exclamation through his snorkel.

The afternoon continued to have showers so we just tendered over to shore and went shopping. That is when I bought my first Tahitian Pearls; a simple pendant and stud earrings in a light greenish gray (the same color as my eyes).

Moorea - The Dolphin Watching Expedition with Dr. Michael Poole may turn into an island watching expedition when no animals are sighted. We were told a lot about dolphins and their behavior as we searched for them in all of Mooreas 12 passes. A small boat cannot completely circumnavigate Moorea because there is no lagoon by the airport; so by the time we had reached the 10th pass without spotting any dolphins or whales Dr. Poole had phoned for a bus to meet us at the pier near the 12th pass to drive us back to the dock in Cooks Bay. I regretted not having my digital camera along on this trip since we ended up seeing almost the entire island from the boat. His presentation onboard the ship prior to dinner showed slides of all that we had missed. (People who took this excursion on our second week spotted no dolphins, only a mother whale and her calf.) The fortunate people were the ones that signed up for this tour after the first tour was fully booked and they got to go the next morning and saw numerous dolphins and whales.

We had booked the Lagoon Discovery with Snorkeling for our second day at Moorea but it was cancelled due to the minimum number not being reached. The Tour Desk notified us 2 days prior that it might be cancelled and verified the cancellation the night before the scheduled tour.

This meant that I had another opportunity to go shopping! So off I traveled to the Black Pearl Gem Company (the one currently represented on the ship) on their complimentary shuttle. Here I purchased a baroque clip (instead of a pendant to slip on a chain, the pearl is mounted on a clip and can be put on a regular white strand of pearls.) Their shop is located in Le Petit Village so there is ample time to also visit other shops.

Friday night when 98% of the passengers packed their bags and put them in the hallway prior to going to sleep we happily anticipated our second week aboard the PG; a back-to-back cruise definitely has its advantages. We finally met Clint (who had started the thread re the PG 8/21) on Friday after having met his wife, Clare a few evenings earlier. Our planned Sunday morning CC meeting never occurred because we had unknowingly selected the same time as the lifeboat drill. My suggestion for others wanting to plan a first meeting time would be Sunday Night at the Captains Welcome Reception in the Grand Salon. Just decide to meet along the port side in the Grand Salon after going through the reception line (starboard side) and prior to dinner.

Saturday - We verified that we would be allowed to leave and return to the ship at will on Saturday by following the regular routine of having our ship identification cards swiped at the gangplank. After breakfast we went to the Grand Salon to say good-bye to many of the friends made during the week. Then we disembarked and walked to the Market Place. It was a fun place to shop filled with local colors, sounds and aromas. This was where I spoke the most French of our entire trip. (High School was a long time ago!) After a vendor had spoken French to me for more than a minute I said Je ne parle pas Francais, parlez-vous Anglais? She easily and promptly switched to English. The number of multi-lingual people in French Polynesia is amazing.

We were back on board by noon so as not to miss a free meal! Le Veranda is open Saturday between noon and 1:00pm. We had a headwaiter, 3 waiters and a sommelier to take care of us!

Week 2 on PG - As we began meeting new people coming aboard after 3:00pm we were able to answer most of their questions as well as many of the crew. The crew always makes you feel like a VIP, but this was even more so on our second week. At the welcome aboard party Saturday night the Cruise Director said "this couple liked the cruise so much they have stayed aboard for a second week" as he walked over to us. We were able to do excursions on week 2 that we had no time for on week 1. We booked dinner at Apicius for Monday night and Le Grill for Thursday night. An almost full moon lighted the August 28th sail away party. Siglos music was being enjoyed poolside by passengers on both the PG and the Tahitian Princess docked next to us. As we sailed away some on the Princess who were also dancing to our music waved good-bye to us.

Fortunately I was not chosen to dance this week, but happily accepted the flower headdress from the 8 ear old dancer from Raiatea at the end of their show. Apparently following Sunday mornings show is a prime time for meeting new friends. A couple came up to us and the gal said something like You must be Kathy. She has read but not posted on both CC and LCT. Again, I wont embarrass you by mentioning names but please sign-in and let everyone else know just how much fun it is to know you! (We enjoyed many adventures with this couple during our second week.) I wore the flower headdress to lunch and later that day put it into our refrigerator. Monday morning I retied the back to fit my head and went to Motu Mahana in swimsuit, pareo and flowers in my hair. If we could afford to spend more time on islands like this I could easily get used to it!

We finally made it to the private beach on Bora Bora September 1st. The weather was postcard perfect. We had requested box lunches and rode on the first tender over to the beach. After making ourselves comfortable under some palm trees on the beach with our lunch hung up in a tree away from the visiting dogs we went into the water to snorkel. I had read that sometimes the currents are a problem here, but it was only slight and the snorkeling was excellent. We observed something we had never seen in all our 33 years of snorkeling and that was large numbers of sand diver fish sitting on the bottom. First we noticed a few, then groups of 5-10, then bunches of 20 or more. All together there must have been hundreds over an area of perhaps 400 square feet. A truly amazing sight! The water was from about 20 to 35 feet deep where we saw them so there was no way to capture this on film with our disposable cameras; its just one of those memories that will linger in our mind. We stayed at this beach until mid-afternoon, then returned to the ship to shower and get cleaned up for the honeymoon/anniversary celebration. We had just wanted to see what it looked like, but were invited to stay and be part of the party. This crew is fabulous; they are so genuinely friendly.

Since the Lagoon Discovery with Snorkeling had been cancelled on day 2 of week 1, we signed up for it on day 1 of week 2 on Moorea. It was by far our favorite excursion of the entire cruise. We were able to feed and pet stingrays, and then we went to a coral garden area near a beach to snorkel. Many areas here were too shallow for novice snorkelers and two did get coral cuts, but Bill & I had no problems and the coral and fish were pretty good. The best part of this trip was that we were blessed with sightings of first dolphins and then whales while traveling back to the dock. A large pod of spinner dolphins were sighted in the lagoon, then a mother whale and her calf that the captain followed through the pass out into the ocean and finally 3 adult whales that we followed long enough to see them breach (flip tail in the air) and roll on side and wave a fin. This trip also has a photographer on board so we purchased a DVD of the entire trip for $60. (Ordered it while still on excursion boat - they bring the orders to the dock the next morning for pick up between 8:30 & 9:15 - we paid cash in US dollars.) We stayed up long enough our first night home to watch our DVD - what a souvenir! We learned from the folks that were with Dr. Poole at the same time as we were on our snorkeling trip that they saw no dolphins and only the mother and her calf whale but we were closer to the whales than they were!

We rented a car for 4 hours on our final day at Moorea. We circled the island, making stops at the Pearl Beach Resort, the Belvedere, Opunohu Bay and the distillery. Our stop at the Belvedere was around noon. There are no tour buses there at that time, as they tend to go up twice a day, in the morning and in the afternoon. We were able to park facing the view of both bays, as did one other car. That was the one time we encountered any daytime rain that lasted more than 30 minutes. So our photographs are not great. We ate our box lunches in the car (with 3 windows rolled down about 1" for ventilation and my front window most of the way down with our large PG umbrella fastened by the shoulder strap of my seatbelt)! After about 30 minutes the rain was down to a fine drizzle and we got out for about 10 minutes and took pictures. On our way back to Cook's Bay we stopped at the distillery and enjoyed many samples of all their local liquors. I had to keep telling the girl pouring the samples "just a teeny tiny amount"! That evening was our second and final Pacific Farewell party and show in the Grand Salon. Before dinner O Tahiti E had presented a lively, colorful musical show and now it was time to see most of the crew for the last time and be entertained by the performers. It was still hard to say good-bye after 2 weeks but not as hard as it would have been if we had only been onboard for 1 week.

Food onboard the Paul Gauguin - As I mentioned, Ive got copies of almost all the dinner menus. I did not request one at Le Grill. Our favorite meal was at Apicius. This started with a cold garlic soup, followed by a green asparagus salad with mascarpone quenelle perfumed with white truffles. Next came lobster ravioli in Dim Sum with shellfish emulsion and basil. For our main course we each chose the grilled tenderloin of beef (the best tenderloin weve ever been served) with oxtail compote and candied carrots (not at all too candied) with parsley. After all of this food (plus the champagne and wine) and not being able to decide between the Tahitian vanilla crme brulee with candied fruits and vanilla ice cream or the crispy chocolate tart with praline ice cream we both ordered one of each dessert! We learned that I liked the crme brulee best and Bill preferred the chocolate tart so next time well order accordingly. The cookies and candies that were also presented with dessert were carried back to our cabin.

Favorite entrees at LEtoile were the broiled Maine lobster tail with Tahaa vanilla sauce served on Sundays and both the beef chateaubriand with choron sauce and the famous Polynesian grilled moonfish served on Wednesdays (you can order both we did on the second week)! I wont elaborate on the rest of the food, suffice it to say with a few minor exceptions it was excellent. Ill answer further questions posed by any foodies reading this.

Post Cruise: Manihi Pearl Beach Resort - We went on a post-cruise trip to Manihi so we needed to be on the dock to meet a Tahiti Nui Travel driver at 6:15am. This meant that we needed to eat breakfast earlier than their 6am starting time on Saturday. Again, it was no problem for the PG staff. One cook got up a half hour early and we had complete room service at 5:30am.

We were driven to the airport and stored one large (locked) bag of dirty laundry and checked in for our turbo-prop flight on Air Tahiti to Manihi. From this smaller aircraft you can see the water during the whole trip and any islands that you fly over. We had 1 short stop at Tikehau on the way to Manihi.

We were in our bungalow at the Manihi Pearl (OWB # 31 at my request) by 10am Saturday and did not need to check out until 2:30pm Tuesday, which was very nice for the cost of a 3 day stay. Even after checkout Tuesday we were comfortable by the bar and pool until 25 minutes prior to our flight out at 4:25pm. (Thats one advantage to a tiny airport with a thatched roof over a few benches on a dirt floor for a terminal.)

The further away you travel from the Society Islands the less English is spoken. The staff at the Manihi Pearl was extremely friendly and helpful and when we would ask something that could not be answered by the person we were speaking with they would smile and say "one moment, please" and go to bring back a staff person who was fluent in English. Also the further out you go (from Papeete) the more expensive the food due to their being dependent on flying almost everything beyond fish in to the island. Nevertheless, everything we ate here was simply delicious! Included in the package was canoe breakfast for 2 one morning. We chose to have this on Sunday at 8:30am. Someone came to our door about 8:10am to place a table and two chairs on our deck (the deck has 2 lounge chairs and built in benches). Just before 8:30am we spotted the canoe being paddled along the lagoon to our bungalow. While the boatman maneuvered over to the ladder leading up to our deck our waitress had the enormous task of trying to carry a heavily laden tray up the almost vertical ladder. Bill offered his help and reached down to her and assisted. When we had placed our order Saturday afternoon the waiter kept making suggestions for breakfast and requests of mine for such things as a few pieces of crispy bacon were met with what was probably an entire pound of nice crispy bacon! After a bit of careful arranging Jenny had our entire breakfast laid out on the table then quietly exited through the door to the boardwalk. When our maids came to the room later in the day the table and chairs were removed from the deck.

Although there were a lot of fish looking for the stale bread handouts (they also love papaya skins), the coral here is not in good shape. Despite the wind we had no problems snorkeling with our own gear that is dryer than the standard straight snorkel. Our visit did not fit with the resorts motu picnic schedule though they were willing to work the Tuesday one so that we could do it. It would have involved a lot of rushing to be ready for our flight out so we decided to not try it. We did do the snorkeling activity on Monday, which was a boat ride through the pass to the ocean side just beyond the pass and 40 minutes of snorkeling in absolutely gorgeously clear water over pristine living coral teaming with fish.

The neatest thing about being in an OWB is watching the fish and sharks at night swimming under you! You can view them through your glass coffee table, glass bedside tables (can fold down a wooden cover for privacy) or through the glass in part of the countertop around your bathroom sink. Other advantages to the OWB are the constant breeze, water lapping against the posts, sunrise views from bed, and clean fresh air.

Return trip to DTW - We left Manihi at 4:25pm Tuesday, September 7th, changed planes and airlines both in Papeete and Los Angeles and arrived at Detroit Metro at 8:00pm Wednesday tired but brimming over with happy memories. It took a full week to overcome our jet lag.
Final Comments As only our cruise consultant knew prior to this trip we had booked another PG cruise next May when we would have met many of you. We wanted to see how we liked this first visit and how we survived the long flights before making a final decision on that refundable deposit. Well, we loved FP so much that we want to return BUT we could not resist the opportunity to switch over to their 10-day itinerary that in addition to all the stops made on the 7-day trip goes to Huahine and Rangiroa. Embarkation is June 11, 2005. So, I am sad to still not meet many of you in person, but very excited about visiting 2 more of the islands I have read so much about. We also have booked a post-cruise stay at the Moorea Pearl Resort. We liked that very much when we stopped by there to check it out. Well be able to walk to a few other restaurants from their location.

The beauty of the Islands and waters are awesome! The Tahitian people, the workers and for the most part our fellow travelers were extremely pleasant. Thanks again to everyone who helped plan this trip and to those of you who took the time to read this long report. Eventually I hope to narrow down our photographs to a reasonable number and have them available for posting.

Kathy Z
Ann Arbor, MI USA - Monday, September 27, 2004 at 19:43:14 (EDT)
I remember saying to my husband at our wedding, "I can't wait to get out of here and just go on our honeymoon." It was truly a fantastic vacation. So beautiful.

We flew from BWI to LAX and had a few hour layover before boardng the Tahiti Nui flight to Papeete. Make sure you buy soome liquor in the Duty Free shop, it makes for much cheaper drinks in Tahiti, and is romantic to have a drink on your porch/balcony etc from your room. We did this every night, for 10 nights and now we never want rum again!

When we flew to Bora Bora after our night's stay in Papeete, we were shittled to Le Maitai where we had a garden room. (We saved OW for Moorea) The service was wonderful there. We got a free pareo, t-shirt and cocktail for being on our HM. They had happy hour every night, (BOGO) and two musicians who played the ukelele and guitar. It reminded me of the Tahiti version of Rick's Cafe from Casablanca, except without the gambling of course.

We ate at the restaurant there (it was ok to good in quality), La Bounty (ok), Bloody Mary's (fresh seafood and where you will see all American tourists eating) and attended the Sofitel show and buffet. (show as good but then I saw the Tiki Village show in Moorea which blew it out of the water.)

We bought breakfast items at a local supermarket or magasin and that saved us some money. Bananas are plentiful and very sweet!

We highly recommend the Moanareva tours for the shark/ray feeding. Food was good, circle island tour and up close to all the fish and sealife.

Bike riding around to Vaitape was fun too. A good way to get exercise and see the island. It's small enough that this is feasible.

Because the island had such strong winds where we stayed , we went to the private motu one day and it was great. calm, clear waters, great for snorkeling, sunny weather. It was fun.


At Moorea we had an overwater bungalow at the Sofitel. And although it is not close to any other hotel, it has hte best property. People complain that the overwaters at other hotels have darker waters, so they were disappointed, but we saw everything in clear blue waters. View of Tahiti. It was truly the best hotel room ever. The service however, not so much. VERY disappointed, especially after coming from Maitai. They wouldn't call to make a dinner reservation for us ANYWHERE and there was a lot of red tape, to simply try and get a new beach towel!!

they made reservations for us to Tiki Village, (which was very good but extremely expensive, $80/person) but the price was significantly higher than if you booked it yourself. The free outrigger you can take were ALL conveniently broken which left you with the ones to rent.

After talking to other tourists though, it sounded as if hotel service in general on the island is spotty. We went to Pearl Beach for lunch and they charged me the equivalent of $2 to call a cab.

The 4x4 was fun (with Albert Tours). I never knew how many different fruit plants there were! We rented a car from Europcar but the book's info we had was I guess outdated, (I have my doubts on this one that she was telling the truth) and we ended up paying $30 extra.

I think we found some good deals for black pearls at Hermans pearls, (I think that's the name). We felt confident after we left after searching a lot that we had some good deals. Everything is truly expensive though so think through your purchases, because you HAVE to eat and prices there are tough to beat.
Bonnie
Bethesda, md USA - Thursday, September 23, 2004 at 16:51:24 (EDT)
I just want to say how much help this site provided us for our honeymoon. Obviously nothing could have prepared us for the unbeleivable trip we had. 10 nights on Moorea at IC Beachcomber. We did everything we could have including lots of sitting in the sun. I will post our experiences soon but I just wanted to say thanks because we were well prepared from reading all the stories
Steve
Detroit, Mi USA - Wednesday, September 22, 2004 at 21:28:19 (EDT)
Bora Bora and Taha'a Honeymoon
Sept 1 - Sept 10, 2004

Island: Bora Bora
Hotel: Sofitel Motu, OWB#112
We flew out of LAX on the 11:45pm Air Tahiti Nui flight. We both enjoyed the flight although we're both tall so we were short on leg room. Having the personal TV with games and movies certainly helped pass the time. The flight was early and we landed before 5:00am. Luckily we were put on the earlier flight to Bora Bora and arrived at the Sofitel Motu at about 9:30am. Max and Nano were there to greet us, we were the only couple on the boat. We were checked in and had a very short wait for our OWB to be ready. We had specifically asked for #s 112, 128, 129 or anything with a view of Mt. Otemanu. We were shown to #112 and we couldn't have been happier. The great thing about this end of the dock is you still get the great views and you're much closer to the coral gardens. And no foot traffic! The downside is the 3 barking dogs on the smaller motu and the roosters. Grrrrr . Wind helped those barks carry a little too loudly.

Some advice if you plan on staying at the Motu and youre not in an end unit: shut your bathroom windows all the way at night. You can see right through to the bed. And I wasnt trying to look either! Thankfully I didnt see anything I shouldnt have.

We loved the room and the great shower. We shared 1 continental breakfast each morning and visted the Tiare market to stock up for lunch. We ended up never eating lunch at the hotel or on the main island. Hinano, ham, cheese, Nutella, and baguette was enough for us and the coco-ananas juice goes wonderfully with Bacardi. We never got there early enough for croissant though.

We only did the 4x4 Jeep Excursion with Tupuna Tours. I was pleasantly surprised since I thought it was more of a picture opportunity tour. Our guide, Joe, was lots of fun and very informative. We learned a lot about the history of Bora Bora and its people.

We had dinner twice at the Manu Tiki restaurant at the Motu and we had very good meals both times. Service is slow but we were in no rush. The drinks were pricy but they were STRONG. In the end it's like getting two drinks so they're not that expensive when you think about it ... Beginning at 7pm in the restaurant lounge there was a young Tahitian man playing his ukulele and singing. I loved hearing the ukulele carry over the dock as we walked to the restaurant. On Sunday night they had 2 beautiful Tahitian women dancing to the music.

Bloody Mary's was exactly as I expected. The food was nothing to write home about but still fun picking from a table of raw fish and meat! We wish the atmosphere had been a little more upbeat. Everyone was talking so quietly. Oh, those boring honeymooners!
Top Dive was part of an "excursion" for us and while the food was much, much better than Bloody Mary's I was disappointed that we couldn't choose from the menu. We had a different menu with only 2 of each course. We're not picky so it was no problem.

The only single thing we complained about (and we really shouldn't) was the weather. It rained way too much for our tastes and the winds really kicked up the lagoon. I did a lot of research to try and come up with the very best time to go to the South Pacific. I wanted the good weather, avoid the festival crowds and the families vacationing in August before back to school. I figured there shouldnt be much rain at the beginning of September. It's the dry season! It goes to show that no historical data can change what mother nature has in store for us. It's all a crap shoot. We did get some sun though and it is very powerful so take a lot of sunblock no matter how tan you think you are.

Overall, we loved Bora Bora. The Sofitel Motu is a really special place and when we go back we will absolutely stay there again. We loved the location, the staff, ease of the on-demand shuttle, the little treats and weather reports they left on the bed at nightly turndown, and hearing the sound of the waves crashing against the coral beyond the lagoon. Simply a wonderful place that we will cherish forever.

Island: Taha'a
Hotel: Le Taha'a, Beach Villa#53

Our flight left from Bora Bora on the morning of Sept 6. The flight from Bora Bora to Raiatea was the shortest flight Ive ever been on. Youre landing before youre even taking off. Everyone says sit on the left side of the plane from Tahiti to Bora Bora. Theyre right. And from Bora Bora to Raiatea, sit on the right.

Once we had our bags we gathered down by the boats. We noticed they already had tags for our bags and we knew our beach villa # right away because they write them on the back. We were in #53 which is one of the ones Id asked for. There were quite a few of us and they needed 2 boats. Luckily Monday was sunny so we had a nice boat ride over to Le Tahaa. The greeting was lovely although I preferred the Coconut milk at the Motu to the blue punch at Le Tahaa . Our Villa wasnt ready so we were given the use of a day room and they said they would contact us at around 12:30 when the room was ready. We immediately changed and headed off to the pool area and bar. Again, they make the drinks strong here and Erique the bartender makes a fantastic Bloody Mary. Extra spicy! The pool area was busy and after being there for 5 days we noticed that all the loungers were taken pretty early. So dont dawdle if youre a pool bather. It may be that the sun is better at the pool depending on where your Bungalow/Villa is.

We had originally planned on splitting up our stay, 2 nights on the Beach, 2 nights in a Sunset view OWB. We ended up changing the reservations about 45 days before we left but I dont think the hotel ever changed it in their system. But our vouchers said 4 nights in a villa. They tried to move us on our 3rd day but we explained that we had changed it and they let us stay in the Villa. We even had the option to move overwater and we didnt because the villas were so wonderful!

We spent so much time in our Villa. I think a property this size in LA would probably go for quite a lot on the market! On our first night we were treated to a half bottle of champagne and we took it around the back to watch the sun set next to Bora Bora. It was so gorgeous.

The interior and exterior of the Villa is out of this world. Very simple but elegant and refined at the same time. I dont even know where to begin so I wont. Im sure there are other reviews out there. Ill just put the pictures in my report. We were happy there was 1 movie channel with English speaking films. We both had to drag ourselves out to Ohiri and miss the finale of Die Hard 2.

The food at Le Tahaa is excellent. We really didnt go wrong with anything we chose on the menu. We had the continental breakfast several times (Atkins dieters beware) and lunch everyday at La Plage restaurant. I didnt think the cheeseburgers were that great but the smoked salmon club was out of this world. I was interested in the buffet and show on Tuesday night and we went to book reservations for both the buffet and Ohiri, the gourmet restaurant. We were specifically told we did not need reservations for Tuesday. However, we definitely needed them for Ohiri on Wed. night. When we showed up for dinner at Vanille on Tuesday they asked us if we had reservations!? We said no and unfortunately sat at a table with a pretty bad view of the show which was held outside on the upstairs patio area. We left early since we really couldnt see anything. I think they were holding it at the main restaurant due to possible rain. I think its usually at La Plage but Im not sure.

Ohiri was incredible and anyone staying at this hotel should go here for dinner. We both got the 5 course tasting menu and every course was divine. Yes, the courses are small but you will be full when you leave. I couldnt finish the chocolate cake which is unheard of! And yes, its expensive but we had Tiare flower aspic and it was my pleasure to eat a part of that delicious smelling flower.

We also both enjoyed side by side facials at the Manea Spa which was wonderful. I highly recommend the spa, it was quite an experience.

Its a bit of a walk from the outer beach villas to reception, and the pool and spa is even further but we didnt mind. Our villa shared a hammock with #52 but we never saw them using it. One word of warning if youre tall and stay in a beach villa be careful walking around the roof. I stood up so many times by the lower part and those fronds are very spikey and hurt the scalp! Oh, and dont think the pool is so big you can pretend to do laps. You will inevitably stub your toe. The mysterious holes in the beach are from crabs. We even had a little sand digging crab by our outside bathtub and shower.

And again the weather here was touch and go. We were only able to swim once off the beach and there is no snorkeling at all on this side. There was a storm out to sea on Wednesday evening and for the rest of the trip there was tons of seaweed washed up on the beach and floating in big clumps in the water. Im not sure if it was seaweed it was the same type of stuff growing in and around the coral in the Bora Bora lagoon.

I cant say much more about Le Tahaa than everyone else already has. Its so luxurious and amazing. I dont think we would go back though specifically because its so expensive and theres not that much to do. It was great to be there for our honeymoon and a once in a lifetime experience.

On Sept 10, our journey home was a little more exciting, and not in a good way. Unfortunately we didnt get on one of the direct flights from Raiatea to Tahiti and we had to go to Bora Bora first. If I ever did this again I would definitely choose the direct flight. Especially since we landed on Bora Bora during some awful turbulence good thing for me its a short flight. And when we finally got to Tahiti our 10:00pm flight was cancelled. We learned that anyone with a connection in LAX was on standby for the 11:15pm flight and that the LA people would be on an Air New Zealand flight that left at 2:35am. Ugh, 4 hours in the airport. It was better than having to spend the night and take the 8:00am flight the next day. Having been on both Air Tahiti Nui and Air New Zeland we would choose Air Tahiti Nui for our next journey. The tvs, and seats were a little more comfy. The only downside is the arm rests.

The other bump in the road was the expired Phone Cards that were sold to us in the Tahiti airport. When we tried to use it to contact our car service (due to changing flight) it didnt work. We checked the back and it had expired May 2004. If you buy a phone care, check the back!

Lorna <vtski009@yahoo.com>
Los Angeles, CA USA - Thursday, September 16, 2004 at 00:49:16 (EDT)
Trip Report (Sept 4-14)

Well after many months of planning and getting tips from the forum, the honeymoon finally got here. We left Sat. morning from Seattle on Hawaiian Air flying first class. That helps a ton as the first class section is top notch on Hawaiian. The only bad part of the flight schedule is the 5 hour layover in Honolulu, but that can be passed quickly sitting in the VIP lounge if you are a first class passenger (another bonus to being first class).

We arrived 10:45 pm in Papeete and it took about an hour and 15 minutes to clear customs. They had a couple flights show up simultaneously and only two customs personnel. I exchanged money at the airport, which I would do as it was the best rate (95 for 1 compared to 89 to 1 at the Sheraton) I saw all week and then grabbed a cab to the Tahiti Sheraton. It was 20 bucks but quicker than the 'le truck' and easier to deal with when you have luggage. It might be overwhelming to firsttimeres to take le truck at 12 at night.

Only stayed at the Sheraton Tahiti one night but it seemed very nice, huge rooms. Next morning we took a 'le truck' into Papeete. Le truck is the way to go on Tahiti. It is a fun way to go and very cheap. They stop anywhere on the route and are easy to find. Most drivers are very helpful in telling you if they go to certain places or not. You meet some locals which are almost always nice although we ran into one rude individual.

That afternoon we took the ferry to Moorea. The waters were choppy but it was a beautiful way to see both islands. When you first see Moorea, you are struck by how lush the island is. It is a carpet of green and the lagoon an array of blue. I have been to Kauai and there is no comparison. At the Moorea ferry dock we jumped on a le truck again it took use to the Sheraton Moorea Resort. We ended up taking a flight on the return trip which worked out nice cause we could store our bags at the airport and go into Papeete before our flight left at 2:30 am. That sucks, not a fun time to be flying.

Sheraton Moorea (Sept 5-13)

The resort is beautiful, absolutely stunning. We had OWB #85 which is on the end of the dock and in a perfect spot. It is almost as good as 105, 107, or 109 except you get a good sunrise and not sunset, but no biggy to me. The Sheraton has excellant snorkeling all around the place. The coral may not be as good as other places but the sea life is by far the best. Their service is excellant except in the restaurant where they were slow and made some mistakes but it didn't bother us. We only ate there one time and ate out at different restaurants all the other nights. As for other resorts, I got to check out the Beachcomer during the dolphin show and we weren't all too impressed. Their lobby is more extravegent but bungalows are not as authentic of a look. The Pearl had great food but the resort didn't seem maintained all too well.

Restaurants

We tried a bunch of places and had good and bad food. First night was le Mahogany. I heard this was one of the best and was very disappointed. The food was not very good. Service was fine but fish was average and chicken that my wife had was terrible. I thought if this is a good restaurant then I am scared for the others. Te Honu Iti was an excellant place. Sit by the railing as the sting ray feeding is fun. The food was awesome. Alfredo's was also good but maybe not worth the price. Le Motu Pizza, great place that isn't too expensive. Great food and dessert for about $40 for two people compared to $80 for the others (without wine). We went to one roulette and had a good experience. There is one about 5 miutes walk to the right of the Sheraton, good place to save some money for one night a get a good dinner. They even had tables and chairs you can eat at. Bring a flash light though, as it is dark on that stretch of road. The Pearl has a great hamburger, one of the best I have ever had. Not sure what kind of sauce it is but it was good.

I would try to eat out only once or twice a day to save money. It is extremely expensive there. We walked to the Magasin to the right of the Sheraton on three different morning to get some goods and that is the way to go. Also brought stuff from home as snacks and drinks.

Activities

Rented a car for half a day and circled the island. Must do this. Shops and maraes are good to see, as well as Belvedere Point. The best place to visit was the Juice Factory. They have all sorts of liquor and just pass the shots out to ya. We left with a lot of alcohol. Glad we didn't do the scooter cause we would have had room for it. On that note, scooters would be fine, people are normal drivers and will just pass ya if you are slow. Do it during the day and be aware of weather which could be different on opposite side of the island. There are some lights on the island, but mainly between the dock and the Pearl Resort.

Did the Dolphin Quest, it was fun but not worth the money IMO. My wife has always wanted to do it though so it was worth it for her. If someone just loves dolphins and has always wanted to touch them and do tricks with them then they should do it.

Alberts tour is a must do, or a similar tour. The shrk feeding was one of the highlights of the trip. It is exciting to be the water with 5 -6 foot sharks. The sting rays were fun too. Alberts does a good job with the tour and picnic. They take to a norkel ground off the motu but the sealife there didn't compare to the Sheraton, although the coral was better.

Tiki Village is a great show and dinner, and gives the true Tahitian life as it was.

This was a great time and we are making a pact to come back every five years. We fell in love with the place and people. Speaking french does help, I had 4 years of it and it is nice at the side stores and shops. They like it too and was able to talk down on an item. It made her more comfortable to negotiate in French. However, you can definately get by on English, especially at resorts.

Hope this helps anyone taking the trip soon.
Island Man
Sammamish, WA USA - Wednesday, September 15, 2004 at 11:49:41 (EDT)

Our Tahitian Princess cruise started on an ominous note with our San Francisco to LA flight being cancelled due to mechanical problems. Three hours behind schedule, we got to the Air Tahiti Nui counter at 12:50 pm, only 10 minutes before flight time. The agent radioed the last shuttle bus to wait for us, checked us in and escorted us to the short security line the flight crew uses. Our checked bags arrived the next day - weve learned to have a couple days clothes in our carry-ons.

This cruise was a wonderful experience, and the first for my brother John and sister-in-law Judie who joined us from St. Louis. They are terrific traveling companions. The Tahitian Princess is the smallest ship weve been on nice because after a short while youre recognizing lots of faces. I felt a little more motion than on larger ships. It wasnt a problem for Linda and me, but Judie was glad she brought the patch from home for motion sickness. I dont think the doctor on board ship will prescribe them.

Being more morning people, we had the early dinner seating and saw the earlier shows. In the Caribbean we enjoyed the anytime dining where you sit with new people every evening but that wasnt offered on the TP. Our table companions on this 10 day cruise were interesting and fun to be with.

The real beauty of French Polynesia is found in the water. Two of our favorite excursions were Marcs motu picnic on Huahine and the Princess booked introductory scuba dive on Bora Bora. Judie almost scrubbed the dive while on the boat, but finally got up the nerve to take the plunge. Afterwards she said shed do it again in a minute, it was that fantastic!

Weve enjoyed all six cruises weve been on, but this was one of the most memorable.

For a more detailed description, and 155 captioned photographs of the cruise, see our website:

www.koskiphotography.com/tahiti.html





Jim & Linda Koski
Sunnyvale, CA USA - Tuesday, September 14, 2004 at 11:11:57 (EDT)
Trip Report (Tahiti, Tahaa, Bora Bora & Moorea) - August 620, 2004

Tahiti IC Beachcomber (OWB)
We arrived at Faaa airport around 6:30pm and our tour guide was waiting for us outside the baggage area. We immediately jumped into the transfer vehicle and arrived at the IC Beachcomber a few minutes later.

Our check in was quick and friendly, and due to our Ambassador Card status they upgraded us to an OWB, which was a nice touch. We had room service that night for dinner and the service was prompt and the food was very good. My son says this was the best Hamburger he had while in F.P., and he had a burger and fries at every hotel we stayed in.

We were off to the airport at 8:45am the next morning headed to Riaetia and the Le Tahaa hotel.

Tahaa Le Tahaa (Beach Bungalow #60, and Bora Bora OWB #105)

We arrived at the Raiatea airport around 10:45am and the Le Tahaa private transport boat was waiting for us and two other couples. We jumped in the boat and took a 30-minute ride in calm waters to the Hotels receiving dock.

All I can say is WOW; this hotel is a knock out punch. My jaw dropped as we entered the property. The attention to detail is remarkable; from the perfectly landscaped grounds to the design of the physical structures, and everything in between, this place defies description. Its a masterpiece of design and artichtecture; youll fall in love with the place the moment you set foot on the property.

Unfortunately, we were told they had a little screw up on the bookings and they couldnt put us in a Bora Bora OWB the first night. The manager was very apologetic and offered us either a Sunset OWB or a Beach Bungalow, and gave us a free lunch and dinner, as well as re-inbursing us the difference between the room rates. We choose the Beach bungalow because of all the great press on this forum and thought it would be nice to compare the accommodations (the price difference was $300.00). Also, both the Beach Bungalow and the Sunset OWB werent ready so we got a tour of the property and had lunch during the wait.

After lunch we were taken to our room and settled in for the afternoon. The next thing we noticed were the Mozzies, so we broke out the insect repellant and lathered up. I actually found the source of the Mozzies; there was a marsh like pond at the far end of the grounds past the pool area. Apparently it had been cold and wet during late July and the standing water from the rain was a Mozzie breeding ground.

Although the bungalow was very spacious, beautifully appointed rooms, with an outside walk in bath and a private pool, we really didnt care for the location of these units. They sit behind the OWBs so the view is blocked and the beaches directly in front arent good for swimming or sunning. Also, as I noted above our unit had a slight problem with Mozzies. However, the good news was our insect repellant worked like a charm. So, needless to say we were happy to leave the BB.

Management moved us the next day while we were eating lunch, absolutely no hassle move handled personally by the manager (Annabel).

Ok, talk about a knock out, our Bora Bora OWB was exactly what the Doctor ordered. The room was beautifully appointed, with a spectacular view, a crystal clear lagoon one step away and the Mozzies were non-existent.

We watched a wedding ceremony from our bungalow and the bride and groom were paddled right past our bungalow to the small Motu for the ceremony.

The next morning we had a canoe Breakfast and it was great, the service manager personally accompanies each canoe delivery while singing to his ukulele music. This was a very popular item as we saw at least 5 or 6 of these taking place while we were there.

We dined every night at the hotel restaurant and the Seafood Buffet was particularly good. Every meal we had was very good, including lunches and room service meals. I would highly rate this hotel on service and food quality, putting it very close to the Hotel Bora Bora. The only minor issue was with room service and the amount of time for delivery.

The down side of this place, if there were one, would be the lack of snorkeling, both off the OWBs, and the property itself. The only decent snorkeling is past the pool area, but it is in very shallow water and requires a little swimming and navigating through the shallow water and coral heads to get there. Please understand that snorkeling is one of my primary hot buttons so Im a real critic in this area.

Also, this hotel is very isolated, so after 3 days I was ready to move on. However, if you happen to be on a honeymoon and like the privacy and remoteness, then this place will be heaven on earth for you. My son made the comment on the last day Dad, I cant believe all the love birds around this place. I told him its just a matter of time until you turn into one yourself 

We didnt do any activities while we were there; we just snorkeled in the coral gardens, soaked up the sun, and indulged ourselves in this incredibly beautiful hotel. My wife got the full blown half day Spa Treatment and said it was the best Spa experience she ever had, and shes had more than I could count.

Regarding the room accommodations in general at this hotel; IMO the rooms we stayed in were far and away the most beautiful of all the hotels Ive stayed in while in F.P. I cant say enough about the interior of these rooms, and the attention to details, from the woodwork to the furniture and every other feature, simply incredible.

The weather was Post Card picture perfect the whole stay, in fact several of the locals commented on how nice the weather was during our stay.

So, we were off to Bora Bora via a Helicopter, and what a kick that was. We checked out on the morning of the fourth day and were driven by the hotels electric transport to the other side of the private Island, about a 5 minute drive through the interior to a heliport that was a landing pad situated on the beach. Within minutes the blue helicopter appeared from the horizon and landed within 50 feet of us. Two other couples jumped out and the three of us got in and within 20 minutes we were landing on Viatape. Talk about great Ariel views, simply breathtaking views of Bora Bora, unfortunately my wife got the front seat, so I didnt get many pictures. We landed at the main Island Heliport, which is only a few minutes from Hotel Bora Bora, and we passed Bloody Marys on the way over.

Bora Bora Hotel Bora Bora (Premium Beach Fare #6)

This place continues to amaze me, from the moment we arrived we felt like we were royalty. No less than 4 managers met us on arrival (the GM and his 3 right arms). They congratulated us on our wedding anniversary and quickly updated us on the latest features of the hotel since our last visit. Beatress, the room manger, whisked us off to our bungalow, and I might add it was only 11:00am. She had reserved number 6, which was the bungalow we asked for prior to our arrival. The check in is completed in the privacy of your own room in less than 2 minutes, nice touch dont you think. They had a bottle of Champagne on ice waiting for us as well as several flower arrangements throughout the suite.

The Premium Beach Fares are over 1200 SF and laid out very nicely. The thing my wife really appreciated, which no other hotels had, was dual 220 and 110 outlets in the bathroom and vanity area. The 110s had sufficient amperage to drive any American 110 appliance at maximum power. All the creature comforts are covered in these suites. It had a private pool twice the size of the one in Le Tahaa, which I used a few times, as I said Im a saltwater kind of guy.

We never saw, or heard, a single Mozzie while at this hotel. The manager told me they dont allow Mozzies at their hotel 

Car Rental:
The next day we rented a car and did some shopping in Viatape, as well as picked up some groceries and drinks for the room. My son was delighted to find Pringles in the market, and they had all the flavors he likes as well. Of course I stocked up on lots of Hinano Beer  After a quick spin around the Island we headed back to the hotel for some R&R.

Private Picnic:
We went on a Private Picnic with Keishi Tours (Pierrot, pronounced P-Air-O, runs it) and it was out of this world. He took us Shark Feeding on the outside of the barrier reef and it was an incredible experience. This was my first time Ive gone Shark Feeding outside the barrier reef, the water was warm and crystal clear. It was a beautiful day and the water was very calm as well. We then went Ray Feeding, which was great fun; I took some great pictures of these gentle creatures. After that we headed for some Manta Ray watching and got lucky because we found one in the middle of the Lagoon just across from the Le Meridian and the new Ritz Carlton Hotels. We also saw one of the largest Barracudas Ive ever seen; he followed us for about 10 minutes. After that we went to Perrouts private Motu for a wonderful Picnic. It was a 5-course meal over Champagne, which included Poisson Cru, Salad, Fresh Fruit, Bread and BBQ Lobster, Shrimp, Chicken, Steak and Mahi Mahi, and all the Beer and soda you can drink. He sets up the table and umbrella in about 2 feet of water so the fish swim right under the table. Very cool, my family loved this outing; it was their favorite day on our trip.

Also, some day Ill tell the story about Molti!!!! It reminded me of the Along Came Polly situation, it involved a young Japanese couple on their honeymoon, with what my wife referred to as a Greek God who was the other tour operator, unbelievable!!!!

Horse back Riding:
The next day we went Horse Back Riding at Ranch Reva Reva with Olivier, hes a French Cowboy with a great sense of hummer. His horses are really friendly and trained to perfection. You ride along the beach and then cut through the interior to the Barrier Reef side of the Motu. Once we reached the other side of the Motu you could see Raiatea across the Lagoon. He picks you up at your hotel dock and transports you to the same Motu that Pierrot uses for his Picnic.

Private Boat Rental:
We rented a private boat for half day and went snorkeling at the outer edge of the barrier reef, and inside the lagoon in several locations, including the Sofitel Motu coral garden. This was without a doubt the best day of snorkeling we had on the entire trip. We saw tons of Fish and Coral Heads and several Black Tip Reef Sharks cruising around.

We then stopped off at the Nui for a tour of the grounds and a look at one of the OWBs. The Nui is a very up-scale hotel with super bungalows, and nicely maintained grounds. I can see why it gets so much good press on this forum.

We also cruised by the Pearl Beach, Bora Bora Lagoon, Le Meridian, and the Sofitel Motu. All these hotels look very nice from the water and I can absolutely understand why they all get positive reviews. Its really hard to go wrong on Bora Bora if you pick one of the high-end hotels to stay in.

Bloody Marys:
Well, we finely stopped in for a dinner and drinks and all I can say is the place is a bit overrated. The meal was ok at best and the service was fair to good. Our waiter was fairly attentive and we got our bill very quickly after dinner, so that was no problem. The interior is unique and I would say its worth at least one visit. The shuttle was leaving every 10 to 15 minutes regardless of how many people were waiting, so we got a ride home in less than 10 minutes.

Again, the weather was almost perfect, with the exception of one minor rainstorm that lasted about an hour one afternoon. I must say this trip was the best weve had as far as weather goes.

After five days on Bora Bora we headed to the airport for our flight to Moorea.

Moorea Sheraton (Horizon OWB #103)

Im so glad we decided to go to Moorea this trip; it was a last minute addition. The lush green mountains are simply breathtaking, and we loved the Sheraton, this hotel goes right to the top of my list.

Check in was like a Holiday Inn, no special treatment, but it went very smoothly and we got one of the rooms we had requested, so we were happy.

IMO the Sheraton Hotel has the best location on the Island for snorkeling. The coral heads and fish are densely populated just a few feet from our OWB. I spent hours in the water snapping pictures of the sea life with my Underwater Camera. Although you read so much about poor service levels at this hotel, it really didnt bother us in the least. The layout of this hotel is excellent and without a doubt has my vote for the best OWB experience in French Polynesia.

The food quality in the restaurants was actually very good, including the lunch menu by the poolside bar (great Club Sandwich and Fries). Also, the service at the poolside bar was very good, nowhere near as slow as the restaurant or room service.

We enjoyed the breakfast buffet each morning, and the good new is you give them your number when you arrive, serve yourself, and then leave.

On a side note, our son was very happy with the Sheraton because it is much more family oriented, with several teenage girls hanging around so he had someone to talk to. He even went to the Polynesian Show with a young American girl and her mother. He was constantly cruising the grounds 

Car Rental:
We rented a car for 48 hours and toured the Island for a half day, drove to Te Honu Iti for dinner, and then used it the next day to drive to the Shark and Ray Feeding tour at the Moorea Campground. Of course I made another pass to the market on the way back for more Hinano Beer.

Shark and Ray Feeding:
We used the Moorea Camping Shark Tour (PK 27.5 Phone 56 14 47). The morning tour runs from 10:00 1:00pm, and the afternoon runs from 2:00 5:00pm. Visitors are charged 2000 CFP or about $20.00. The Campground is about 50 yards from Moorea Village where I cashed travelers check, and took a quick look at the facility.

You feed the Black Tip Sharks inside the Lagoon, and then feed the Rays in another location. After the Ray feeding you go to a small Motu for some sliced fruit and snorkeling. You need to bring your own drinks or Beer, and snorkel equipment.

They use a 25 30 foot boat, and we had 12 people on the tour. I much prefer this to the crowded tour trips that pack about 30 people on the boats. I took some awesome pictures of my son with 20 or 30 Sharks in the background, very exciting experience to be in the water with so many Sharks. The tour guide was throwing food right next to us, particularly if you have a sense of humor and joke around with them. I highly recommend this trip, and the cost is very cheap as these tours go.

Te Honu Iti:
We loved this place, the ambience is great and the food quality and service is wonderful. All the people who work there are so nice and helpful, and I can see why this place gets excellent reviews. I had the Steak and it was cooked perfectly (medium Rare), my wife had fish and my son had chicken and they all liked the food. Be sure and go early and get a table by the railing so you can feed the rays and watch the fish. The place was packed by 8:30, and as we walked out around 9:00 there was a waiting line of 10 or 15 people. We will absolutely be back the next time we visit Moorea.

Again, the weather was absolutely perfect, as my wife commented the weather Gods were good to us on this trip.

Unfortunately our trip was coming to a close so we left for Tahiti around 1:00pm via the shuttle plane on Wednesday the 18th.

Tahiti IC Beachcomber (Panorama View #391)
We arrived back at the ICB and checked into a Panorama Room, and arranged a late check out the next day as a result of our Ambassador Card.

We went shopping in Papeete for several hours hitting many shops and the two-story market place. We arrived back around 5:00pm, took a quick swim in the pool, had dinner, freshened up in the room and left for the airport around 8:00pm.

We love the ICB hotel as this was our third visit, the service is excellent, and the grounds are very well maintained. They have a very nice sand bottom infinite edge pool with a swim up bar thats nice to cool off in, and a very large main pool where most of the people hang out.

One last comment is we had dinner at the ICB Le Lotus restaurant and it was by far the most expensive terrible dinner Ive ever had. However, the service was first class but was obviously overshadowed by the poor food. I hope this was a fluke, but Ill never eat there again.

General Information:

As we said the weather was outstanding and we only used the Air Conditioners in the late afternoon when the sun was beating down on the OWBs. We never used it during the morning or evening as the trade winds and the ceiling fans were adequate.

The Mozzies were most heavily concentrated at Le Tahaa, with a few in Moorea around the Poolside Bar and at the airports. We used the organic Dschungel Juice (no Deet) exclusively and it worked like a charm when we remembered to put it on. Overall the bugs and Mozzies werent a problem, although we saw a Cock Roach the size of a small mouse taking a hike across the pool deck at the Sheraton; but one firm step and it was neutralized 

I wont give any further tips as so many have given the obvious advice about over packing, money conversions, suntan lotion, snorkeling equipment, and the usual common sense stuff.

Boy, do I have the fever something bad, its been 10 years sense our last visit and I forgot how much I love this place. One thing is for sure, it wont be another 10 years before I get back because Im already planning a 06 trip.

Also, I took over 2500 pictures during the trip; Ill be putting them on an Internet site in a month or two for everyone to check out. However, in the short term Ill post some shots on this site, I just need to sort through them and pick a few out.

Thanks for reading

Thomas Marshall <boyd.marshall@sicor.com>
LA, Ca Sicor - Wednesday, September 01, 2004 at 13:14:46 (EDT)
We just got back from our honeymoon (August 2nd thru August 13th) and couldn't have had a better time. This website gave me so much valuable information, so I hope to be able to contribute with some of my own suggestions.

Flight: I do not like flying, but couldn't believe how easy the flight was. We flew on Air Tahiti Nui from LA to Papeete. We took the red eye which was nice and the TVs for each seat give you a choice of 6 movies to choose from throughout the flight. This made the time pass by. Seriously if you afraid of flying, no need to worry about it.... it is a very easy, smooth flight. I wanted to upgrade to business class (but at $600 per person, it isn't worth it. Save the money to spend on your vacation.)

Moorea: Stayed at the Sheraton Moorea in Overwater Bungalow #79 which was a perfect location. We didn't look out to the hotel (so more privacy) and had some great snorkeling right under our bungalow. I was so happy that we stayed at this resort. It was private, clean, beautiful and great snorkeling. Our room was very nice and the service was great. The food at the pool's restaurant was great for lunch. I highly recommend the chicken panini. I am very particular over food and didn't want to get food poisoning, but ate the chicken everyday and it was delicious. The restaurant at the hotel was also very good and has a nice dining room that looks over the pool and lagoon.

Scooter around the island: HIGHLY Recommended to do on Moorea
This took about 3 hours to make it around the entire island and it was so much fun. Originally we were going to take 2 scooters, but the activities director recommended we share and we were so happy that we did. This way you get to talk to your loved one and laugh with them while driving around. Half way thru the scooter ride it started to pour rain. We couldn't do anything but laugh and hope that we made it safe. It made it more exciting. This was a great way to see the entire island and kind of an adventure.

Dolphin Quest
Although this is a little expensive, about $450 this was something we really wanted to do. This is thru the Beachcomber resort. The honeymoon program only has 6 people in it and you get to swim with the dophins and get to learn about them and get pictures with them. The program also gives you a free picture. It was amazing to come so close with the dolphins.

Mandara Spa (At the Sheraton)
I got the coconut scrub and Heaven and Earth massage and my husband got the 80 minute Sports Massage. The treatments were great and although pricey we got a room together which was romantic. We were glad we did this on Moorea since it was a lot more expensive at the same spa in Bora Bora.

Restaurants

Alfredo's: Delicious Italian food. Fettucine Alfredo and Tortellini was great! The best garlic bread appetizers. We went here twice since the food was good and different from what every other restaurant had.

Motu Iti:
We really wanted pizza, so we read about this place. Worst pizza ever. It was greasy and we could barely eat 1 slice a piece. Not sure how the other food is, but wouldn't recommend this place.

Te Honu Itu:
Loved this restaurant. Was pleasantly surprised by the scenery. We sat at a table overlooking the water and couldn't believe the amazing sting rays below. They even allow you to feed the sting rays with tuna. This was the best restaurant on the island that we went to and I would highly recommend this.

Moorea summary: This island is amazing with how green it is. We were so happy we came here first since the locals are great and you get to experience what life is like on the island. It was easy to get around with transfers (taxis) and the snorkeling was great! We loved our hotel and would recommend the overwater bungalow, I don't know if we would have had as good of a time if we weren't over the water.

Bora Bora: The flight to Bora Bora was easy... THANK GOD! We stopped in Huahine to drop people off.

Bora Bora Nui Resort
This resort is amazing. You can't believe how beautiful it is when you pull up. This is a gorgeous resort and we were so happy that we picked this location. We also heard that Le Meridien was also good. Our overwater bungalow was beautiful and looks even better in person than any of the pictures. We stayed in room #305 which was further from everything, but nice and private. Not all of the rooms get sun all day, which is OK. Our room got lots of sun in the morning from about 7am - 1pm, but others that we saw didn't get sun until the later afternoon. We were happy with ours. Once you didn't get sun we would head down to the pool since it is beautiful. Breakfast at the Nui is great! The selection is huge. I would recommend getting the breakfast packages at the hotels since you don't want to travel anywhere to pick up breakfast.

Jet Skis: YOU MUST DO THIS WHILE HERE
Don't do the jet ski's on Moorea, do them on Bora Bora. This was amazing and we did this thru Miki Miki Jet Ski. Loved this and our guides were great! We spent about 3 hours going around the entire island and also spent some time on a private motu. This is also good to do together on 1 jet ski. We were able to switch off driving 1/2 way thru and riding on the back gave the other person a relaxing break to enjoy the scenery.

Sunset Cruise: GREAT!!!
We did this our last night here and it was a great way to end the trip. We went on a catamaran Tarvana (or something like that).

Restaurants: We ate every night at the restaurant at Bora Bora Nui which was great and easy. By the end of the day the last thing you want to do is get on the taxi to the main island. One night we went to Top Dive on the main island and were so glad that we did. This restaurant truely is delicious. I had the best Mahi Mahi of the entire trip. We saw Mana Rays while we ate.

As a whole we had an amazing time on both islands. I was glad that we went to both of them because they are 2 different experiences. I miss being there already and can't wait to go back. We realized that it is expensive, but you get what you pay for (when we went to cheaper places, the food wasn't as great). Even though the restuarants were expensive all of our food was great. You also have to travel to French Polynesia with the mind set that you are on island time. Yes the service isn't quick and sometimes forgetful, but as long as you know that going there you won't be disappointed. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask @ hmlonline@yahoo.com

Have a great trip!!! I wish I was going back.
Heather <hmlonline@yahoo.com>
Walnut Creek, CA USA - Sunday, August 15, 2004 at 14:18:40 (EDT)
Hi everyone! After 10 years, my husband and I finally made it back to Bora Bora for our 10 year Anniversary. We had an incredible time! We stayed at the Pearl Beach OWB #44 the first 5 nights. The room was great, but beware of the ships that come in to dock right in front of the bungalows! We had two days of no privacy. We also had to ask the front desk to call the ship to get them to turn off spotlights at night that were shining right into our bungalow. But there was a great view from this bungalow.

Food at the resort is not that great. The service at the pool restaurant was horrible so I would not suggest eating there. It took 20-30 minutes just to get them to take our drink orders each time we went. (Which was only twice.) The trip into town was long and not convenient either. However, for dinner, if you make reservations in time, they have taxis that meet you at the boat dock and it is an easy trip.

We did go to Bora Bora Lagoon Resort for dinner on our anniversary and it was fantastic. We saw all the renovations which are outstanding and even walked to the bungalow we stayed at on our first trip there. We were sorry we didn't stay there and I would suggest this resort over the Pearl Beach any day.

I have to say, Bora Bora is becoming so commercialized compared to 10 years ago that I wonder how long the marine life and island can stay as beautiful as it is now.

The best part of the trip was our 3 nights and 5 days in Tahaa'a. We stayed at the Private Island Resort and Spa. We took the helicopter ride from Bora Bora's airport and landed right at the resort. We then had a golf cart ride to the other side of the motu to the actual resort. Our bungalow was unbelievable. It was huge, had an enclosed deck with a covered table and fan, big comfortable lounge chairs, big picture window in front of the bed overlooking the lagoon, tons of privacy and a view of Bora Bora in the distance from the deck. We had heard that this resort had the most beautiful bungalows in all of French Polynesia, and they definitely do. The service was good, the food at the regular restaurant was great, (the gourmet restaurant was awful), and the beach and snorkeling in their coral gardens was beautiful. The only two things that I would not suggest doing other than the gourmet restaurant are 1) the Polynesian feast with fire dancers was nothing compared to the dancing, etc. on Bora Bora, and 2) the pina colada's were not the drink you want to order. The bartenders needed some lessons on their mixing of drinks.
Diana <HareDi@aol.com>
Sarasota, FL USA - Tuesday, August 03, 2004 at 16:02:19 (EDT)
Flights: Our first flight, leaving out of Dulles International, was delayed for about 2.5 hours on Sunday morning. We thought "great way to start off the honeymoon, huh?" but once the plane arrived, things were right on track. Both of our domestic flights were mostly full and upgrades were nowhere to be found. I slept on the way to Los Angeles and we arrived there just after lunchtime. Our next flight on Air Tahiti Nui was to leave at 4:20pm. We checked in with Air Tahiti Nui and did not need to upgrade since we had pre-paid for business class. VERY smart choice since our flight was full. On the way back, there were a few seats left in business class and first class only had one person in it. Our flights on Air Tahiti Nui took off and landed on time and I slept the entire way both times. I know they give you a blanket, pillow, eye cover, and ear plugs in all classes, but my seat almost fully reclined and that really helped me remain comfortable the entire flight. I missed our five-course meals both times, but I did manage to have some pastries both times and they were very tasty. My poor DH could not sleep at all, even after taking a Valium, but he said he was comfortable. Our flight timings were perfect because we arrived in Papeete around 10pm and went straight to the Beachcomber and went to bed. So, we got a full night of rest and were ready to go the next morning. The return flight was also around 10pm, so we got a full day of activity and everyone slept on the plane overnight. Our return domestic flight was not fun after flying Air Tahiti Nui, so we vowed to never fly coach again. Of course, most of my traveling is done through work, so I have to fly coach, unless I upgrade on my own dime. LOL Just a heads up for those who made the same mistake as us- when we got to LAX and checked-in with Air Tahiti, we forgot to ask about the premium class lounge. So, when we got to the entrance for the lounges, we asked the security guards and they lead us to the wrong lounge. So, we NEVER found the lounge. It ended up being with Qantas.

Tahiti Beachcomber Intercontinental: Although we were only at the Beachcomber for no more than 12 hours or so, we felt that this resort was the best choice in Papeete. I did not get to see any of the other hotels, but the grounds at the Beachcomber were pretty, everything was well taken care of, and they do offer a few overwater bungalows if you really want to stay in one, but your budget is tight, or if you really wanted to splurge on everything! We stayed in a lagoon view room and I thought our room was cute and decently appointed. We had a view of the pool mostly, but there was also construction going on just below our balcony. It appears that they were building another deck. Also, we ate both breakfast and lunch at the Beachcomber and the outdoor restaurant was pretty decent. The food seemed pretty good and you had a nice view of the pool. Another plus- I bought my pearls at the Beachcomber at the Robert Wan ( Tahiti Perles) boutique. I got a beautiful turquoise loose pearl that I'm having set into a ring and I bought a bracelet that has pearls all the way around it. I love my bracelet! I also tried on the ring I had chosen before I got to Tahiti, but the smallest size they had would not fit the fingers I wanted to wear the ring on. I believe the smallest size they made is a size 5, so they have plenty of selection, it is just that my fingers are incredibly small.

Le Tahaa Private Island and Spa: Our transfer flight from Tahiti to Raiatea landed just before sunset, so our 40 minute boat transfer to the resort allowed us to see the gorgeous sunset looking over toward Bora Bora. While on our transfer, we got to see part of the main island of Tahaa and we also passed the Paul Gauguin cruise ship, which looked pretty nice. Once we were there, check-in was a breeze and we ended up with beach suite #51. I was excited because I had requested #50-#57, but after viewing the location of all of the beach suites, I am convinced suite #51 was the BEST on the whole island. It was set back a decent way from the path, there were only 2 beach suites beyond ours (that happened to be empty for the majority of our stay), and we had an open view of the lagoon and the main island, while most of the others had a restricted view because of the overwater bungalows. It was absolute perfection. The bungalows are extremely well appointed, with a "sexy exotic luxury" feel about them. Our favorite part of our bungalow was the private plunge pool. We also REALLY enjoyed the outdoor bath tub. I can honestly say clothing was optional while in our bungalow. We also enjoyed being able to have direct access to the beach (not white, sandy beaches though- mostly broken up shells and coral, but walkable) and lagoon from our back deck and we often just went out and swam at our own leisure. Plus, the view was AMAZING! I was supposed to switch to an overwater bungalow after our third night, but decided we could not leave the beach suite. Since the resort was fairly empty, they gladly let us decide what we wanted to do. I had also heard that bugs and lizards were an issue in the beach suites, but I got bit once the entire time and saw two lizards for 2 seconds in the bungalow one night. The rest of the resort was just as beautiful. We spent a lot of time at the pool, just because of the location. It was right next to the coral gardens and the kayaks, as well as the pool restaurant, Le Plage. Our first night there, we decided to get room service because of our late arrival and we just enjoyed the beauty of our bungalow. The second day, we went to breakfast at the Vanilla Restaurant, we snorkeled just outside of our bungalow and in the coral gardens, and we attended the Polynesian show and buffet at Le Plage. The show wasn't anything spectacular, but it was interesting to see some of their culture. One of the women did a demonstration on how to tie pareos and she chose my DH! He was really embarrassed, but I thought it was fun. The next day, we enjoyed the pool (it is not a large pool, but it is nice) and we went kayaking in the coral gardens. We had room service for our breakfast and ordered one continental breakfast for the both of us. It truly was plenty of food and very delicious. For dinner, we went to the Vanilla Restaurant again. We chose not to eat at the gourmet restaurant or Chez Louise because of my picky eating habits (for those that are picky eaters, I do not eat any fruit, vegetables or seafood and I ate well while I was away). During the night on the third night, it stormed and it continued to rain off and on the next day, but we still were able to enjoy the pool and our private plunge pool. It gave us a much needed break from the strong sun, even though we still saw sun that day. On our 5th day, we went to the spa and both received the Monoi Rima Avae treatment, which is a reflexology massage. My DH did not really enjoy it and found out he does not like the spa, but I was in heaven. The spa is very open air and exotic. I went back later that day and got the Hohoa Patitifa facial, which is a local treatment consisting of hibiscus, coconut, honey, and fruit. The smell of the spa and the smells from the facial were amazing! In between my spa treatments, we rented jet skis for an hour and went around the back side of the main island. While jet skiing, we could smell these amazing scents of ylang-ylang and vanilla. The water was an incredible color and the air was so refreshing. I recommend taking the jet skis out to explore (although they are partially guided, our guide let us go at our own pace), but they are expensive. Our two jet skis for the hour were $335USD. On our last day there, we enjoyed room service for breakfast and caught our shuttle back to the airport in Raiatea. On the way back, dolphins swam along side of the boat. It was like a dream come true- our whole experience at Le Tahaa was surreal and those 5 nights were simply not enough for me. Overall, I enjoyed Le Tahaa the most, but I could see very active people getting bored with it after 5 nights. As far as the food is concerned, I LOVED the pancakes and the pastries, as well as the Coupe Pearl dessert at Le Plage, which is vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup, and whipped cream. My DH enjoyed all of the fish, especially the mahi mahi and the tuna, as well as all of the fresh fruits. The service was good, although a tad slow, but I think we are so used to being in a hurry that it was not as slow as it seemed. Our only complaint was the language barrier. The staff, for the most part, did not know a lot of English, which is normal for around there, but my DH was getting very frustrated. I took French for 7 years in school, and although it had been a good 5 years since I last spoke it, it did help me out a few times while trying to communicate. I wish I had brushed up on it before our trip, so I have vowed to take up French again so I'm almost fluent when I return. YES- WE WILL RETURN IN A HEART BEAT! Next up...Bora Bora!

St. Regis Bora Bora Nui Resort and Spa: We arrived at the airport in Bora Bora after our 10 minute transfer flight (we almost ditched it to take the helicopter transfer instead) and we were greeted by an American! I thought "how nice! Someone who speaks English" but then I thought "Geez, is this going to be more like Hawaii than French Polynesia?" Thankfully, it was more like French Polynesia, although it is definitely more Americanized than the other resorts. The luxury of this resort definitely fits the American definition of luxury more than Tahaa did, and I personally preferred Tahaa over the Nui in the luxury category. The Nui is spectacular though- it has beautiful, well maintained grounds, two large infinity pools (that are connected), a nice restaurant, and very well appointed bungalows. I would have been even more in a trance with the Nui if we had visited there before Tahaa, but I am happy with the timeline I chose because of the wedding. Upon our return, I would go to Bora Bora first. Anyway, we stayed in overwater bungalow #109, which is the furthest out on the tier to your right when facing the ocean on the motu. It was a long walk, but well worth it since we had the best view at the resort. We had the deepest water for snorkeling (and had a ton of coral as well), the best sunset views, a good view of the main island of Tahaa, and a view of the top of Mt. Otemanu when we walked out our front door. I requested this bungalow and was very excited to hear that our request was fulfilled. During our 4 night stay, we remained extremely busy. On our first afternoon there following the transfer, we decided to enjoy the snorkeling right off of our bungalow. There were so many fish and they all followed you as you swam. On the second day, we did the shark and manta ray feeding with "Shark Boy". We met up with them on the main island and we went out into a coral garden close to the Nui. The sharks were a tad scary, but they placed a rope in the water and told you to remain behind it while they fed them. Hopefully our underwater pictures turn out! Then we were allowed to snorkel among the other fish in the coral garden. We then moved to a new spot where we swam and fed the manta rays. They were so neat and so soft, but maybe a little too friendly. They kept rubbing up on everyone and some of the other participants got scared. After the ray feeding, they took us to the motu where the Ritz Carlton is being built for some fresh fruit (More on the Ritz and other resorts later!). Upon our return from the excursion, we chose to spend some time relaxing in the sun by the pool. On the third day, we awoke to a storm, which was somewhat welcomed because we needed a break from the sun. It quickly cleared up and we headed out to our 4x4 jeep safari in the afternoon. Since it was a little breezy and overcast, we could enjoy the safari minus the heat and the bugs. Also, because of the storm, there were only 3 of us in the back of the jeep. We went with Tupanau Tours and I think the guide did a good job of explaining both the landscape and the culture. He also took me shopping for pearls afterward! But, unfortunately, we did not have our credit cards on us. Lucky for my DH, huh? LOL Overall, the tour was interesting, but probably would not do it again if we went back. That night, we decided to head over the Bloody Mary's for dinner. I know some people complained about it being too Americanized, but I think it was fun and definitely worth the trip. The food was really good and the atmosphere was relaxed and light. I know it is definitely a tourist trap, but it was fun to be a nerdy tourist for a night! The next day, my DH headed to the pool, the beach (which is fairly large compared to other resorts) and did some kayaking, while I enjoyed a day at the spa. I indulged myself with the "Transcendence" treatment, which offers a an aromatherapy foot bath, lavender body wash, a body scrub (Bali coffee or coconut- I did the coconut scrub) and a massage (Balinese, reflexology, warm stone and one other- I did the warm stone massage). Compared to the Manea Spa in Tahaa, the Mandara Spa had a more Balinese tone since most of the treatments and masseurs were from Bali! I thought the Mandara Spa was a little pricey for what they offered, but it still was worth it for the relaxation aspect. I did enjoy the more open-air set up of Tahaa more, though. Our last day was more centered around packing and relaxing, knowing that we had to head home. We had a late check out and our flight did not depart Bora Bora until 6pm, so we went to the pool in the morning and laid around in the afternoon. As for food: the Nui has two main restaurants, Iritai in the main building, and the pool restaurant. Iritai has a contemporary Mediterranean cuisine and was fairly decent (remember, I'm a picky eater, so things can get tough) and the pool restaurant was more focused on light, American cuisine. We really enjoyed the pool restaurant for lunch, especially the french fries, the cheese burgers, and the cajun chicken. We had breakfast included in our package, but we ordered room service everyday, so we had that extra charge. Plus, they accept tips at the Nui, unlike Tahaa, so we obviously felt obligated to tip since the service was decent. Upon our return to Bora Bora, we would love to stay at the Nui again, perhaps in Royal Suite 107 (!), but Hotel Bora Bora also intrigued me because of the intimacy the resort offers. Also, the new Ritz Carlton will be open sometime next year, and has an incredible view. It is a tough call, but we are very happy with the Nui, but would go to Bora Bora first and Tahaa last.

Okay, so I checked out the other resorts and here are my opinions (you can take them for what they are worth!):

Hotel Bora Bora: We did not go onto the grounds of Hotel Bora Bora, but we saw it from above during the jeep safari, from the road, and from a boat. The grounds looked lovely, and the size of the resort is nice, but the location BLOWS. I do not like how it is right off the main road on the main island. It would be nice to stay there for maybe 2 or 3 nights so you have complete access to the main island without worrying about boat shuttles, but I can imagine it can get noisy. Plus, some of the amenities, such as the tennis courts, are across the street from the main resort grounds. Besides that, the accommodations look old, but they do look large. The water under the overwater bungalows looks decent for snorkeling, but the water appears very shallow. Also, cruise ships anchor almost directly in front of the resort and that would annoy me. A couple we met at the Nui went over there for lunch and said the food and service were good, but they were very glad they stayed at the Nui instead. I tend to agree. My DH thinks a few nights there for main island access would be beneficial for sight-seeing, but other than that, staying on a motu is the way to go.

Bora Bora Lagoon Resort: Although this resort is on the same motu as the Nui, we chose not to go over there. It looked old and dark, although it does have a decent view. Cruise ships also anchor in front of this resort as well, which is unappealing to me.

Bora Bora Pearl Beach Resort: Once we were picked up on Vaitape for our shark feeding, we went over to the Pearl Beach to get more participants. While waiting, we decided to walk around the grounds. The grounds looked a little ragged and not well maintained, except around the pool area, which reminded me a lot of the Le Tahaa. I thought the overall size of the resort was nice (not too big, not too small) and the bungalows looked fairly nice, but a little older. The view from the Pearl is nice, but I did feel like the resort was too close to the airport for my taste. But, for all I know, you can't even hear the air traffic! It did not look like the lap of luxury, but it did look like a nice resort if you did not want to spend the money on the Nui or Hotel Bora Bora.

Le Meridien: Another nice price alternative is Le Meridien, which looked like it has lush grounds and quite an amazing view! The lagoon it faced was very nice and the motu seemed very secluded. The overwater bungalows looked a little worn and somewhat small, and the snorkeling under them did not look great, but it is the beach bungalows I would be most interested in if staying there. The resort is a tad far from any main villages on the main island, but that could be a good thing. Honestly, Le Meridien would be my third choice behind the Nui and Hotel Bora Bora, respectively.

Ritz Carlton (Opening 2005): the new Ritz shares the same incredible view as Le Meridien, but is probably twice the size. It is HUGE!!! It has two, VERY long tiers jetting out into a gorgeous lagoon. I can only imagine how luxurious this resort will be, and the location has me sold, but I feel that only 2 overwater bungalows would be worth the money (the furthest out on each tier). Plus, the snorkeling did not look that great and it is far from the villages on the main island. I'd be willing to spend the money if I got those two choice bungalows just to see what the Ritz has to offer.

Sofitel Motu/Marara: The Sofitel Motu looked VERY small, and for me, that is nice, but not for that resort and the location. The grounds looked a little wild, but perhaps they were just very lush. The bungalows looked a little worn and not very large. I personally did not care for the location because the water seemed very shallow, not very colorful, and the view was only decent. Plus, some of the amenities are across the lagoon at the Marara, and the Marara is also small. I saw the Marara from the front entrance on the main island and thought it looked quaint, but not anything I'd want to spend a lot of money on in Bora Bora with so many other options. Personally, if the Sofitel Motu was closer to the new Ritz Carlton, I might think more highly of it.

Beachcomber Intercontinental: The Beachcomber in Papeete looked MUCH nicer than this resort. The bungalows looked really ratty and old, not very large at all, and it was on the main island with pretty much no view. Plus, the resort looked crammed onto the land next to the homes of locals, which sadly, does not provide a very nice, luxurious surrounding. BUT, I did see that the Beachcomber is opening a brand new resort in Bora Bora in May 2006. I did notice some construction right next to Le Meridien, so perhaps it is going there?? That would be a fabu spot IMO.

Jells
Brunswick, MD USA - Thursday, July 29, 2004 at 08:19:28 (EDT)
Tahiti honeymoon review

4 nights Moorea Pearl Beach
6 nights Bora Bora Pearl Beach

Day 1 - Monday June 21
4:15am came really early. We flew out of Chicago and got to LA where we got a hotel room for the day. We stayed at the Best Western, which I do not recommend. It took them almost one hour to come pick us up from the airport. They have free shuttles but I would have much rather paid and not had to wait considering they claim they are less than 5 miles from the airport. At the time, I was wishing that we were going straight onto the plane to Tahiti but Im glad we spent the day in LA. We slept most of the day because we were so tired from the wedding. We left to go back to the airport around 8:30. It was so confusing! First, you have to find the Air Tahiti Nui check in counter. As you face the counter, there is a baggage scan area to the right. You first have to get your checked luggage scanned and then an airport worker escorts you and your luggage to the check in counter. I was glad that we got there so early because it got REALLY busy. The flight was completely full. It was a long and uncomfortable flight but I was glad that I slept for 5 of the 7 hours. Also, dont be confused by how the seats are lettered. It goes AB DEFG JK (2-4-2). At first, we were worried that we werent sitting next to each other but it turned out fine.

Day 2 Tuesday June 22
We got to Tahiti and it was still dark outside. Check-in at the airport moved really fast. We got our flower leis and took a short van ride to where our plane left for Moorea. The sun rose as we were at the airport and it wasnt long before the plane arrived. Its the smallest plane Ive ever been in -- you can see right into the cockpit! Sit on the left side of the plane for the best view. The flight was really short Maybe 10 minutes. We arrived in Moorea and got on a bus that took everyone to their hotel. Our hotel Moorea Pearl Beach was the first stop for our group. We got another flower lei and some yummy pineapple juice. We then found out that the hotel overbooked the garden bungalow rooms so they made us an offer. If we stay in a family room for one night, we would get moved to a premium garden bungalow for the other 3 nights of our stay. We asked to see the family room first and decided to take them up on their offer for a few reasons. First, we were there early (like 10:00am) and check in wasnt supposed to be until 2. With this, we got our room right away whereas some couples had to wait until their room was ready at 2:00. Second, the room was nice. Although it wasnt a separate cottage like the bungalows, it was bigger (had two extra beds) and the king bed was upstairs in a loft very cute. This is seriously a nice way to save money if you are on a budget. And of course, they did upgrade us to a premium garden bungalow for the other 3 nights, which made it worth it. So, we got settled in and took a walk around the grounds. I couldnt believe how beautiful everything was! We took a walk to the grocery store to get some food and water. (As you leave the resort its a 5-10 minute walk to your right.) There are mini-bar fridges in each of the rooms but we just took out the soda and stuff they had in there and replaced it with our own stuff. We made reservations at the activities desk for the Tiki Village Theater show that night. We were so tired; I really wish we would have waited to go another night. The dinner buffet was disappointing. It was the only bad meal I had the whole time I was on my honeymoon. The show after dinner was really good. It made it a little more worth the money it cost us. I noticed that our hotel gave the option of doing the dinner and show or just the show. I wish we did just the show.

Day 3 Wednesday June 23
We included breakfast only with our stays in Moorea and Bora Bora, which Im really glad we did, as both my husband and I are big breakfast eaters. The croissants at the Pearl in Moorea are SO good. After we ate that morning, we moved to our premium garden bungalow. It had a little pool and nice deck. We walked across the street and booked a 4X4 tour with Albert tours (they have a shack across the street from the hotel and you can book tours or rent scooters there). We went to the distillery where we got free shots. yummy! We stopped at the pineapple fields but didnt get out of the truck because it started raining. It finally stopped raining when we got to Belevideres lookout. It was beautiful even though it was really cloudy from the rain that just stopped. The tour took us around the entire island which was really nice. We stopped at cooks bay and some other spots around the island. It is winter there right now which is their dry season so we didnt go to the waterfall. Overall, we had a great tour except for the rain part. That night we got back to the hotel and ordered a pizza from Allos. This was good pizza and the cheapest meal of our entire trip at about $20 for a medium pizza and they delivered to our hotel. That night, we intended to go watch the show that the hotel puts on but we were so tired from the time difference, we fell asleep and missed it.

Day 4 Thursday June 24
We went to bed so early that we woke up with plenty of time to watch the sunrise. After breakfast we just laid in the sun. The sun is so intense! Do not forget your suntan lotion. I used spf 45 most of the time and was glad I did. We went snorkeling right along the over water bungalows. We brought our own snorkels with us and used the hotel masks and flippers. There were more fish than I expected and the funny part is that they dont move when you come by them! After snorkeling we went kayaking (its free to use the hotel kayaks). What a great view of everything. Dont forget your underwater cameras! Later on that day we called Alfredos and made reservations for them to pick us up at the resort to go to dinner. My dinner was really good (fettuccini and shrimp). There was a guy there playing music and singing he was really good. Oh, almost forgot, Moorea was the only place where I felt like tipping was expected. The Alfredos van has a sign rides are free, but tips are expected. I was really surprised. The driver said that the restaurant does that so they dont have to pay the driver a lot of money. Then, on the bill that night, it said, tips appreciated. I guess US customs with tipping have gotten to them. We left the restaurant and I left my sweater there. We told the driver but I honestly didnt think Id ever see it again but, sure enough, he brought it back to the hotel for me! After we got back to the hotel, we took a walk on the pier. The sky was so clear and the stars were amazing.

Day 5 Friday June 25
We walked into town again and exchanged some money at the bank. I would recommend exchanging some money before you get to the resort. We had to exchange some money at the hotel for the pizza (but I think Allos would have taken US money) and it was a horrible exchange rate. The bank in town was a much better rate. We did some shopping but didnt buy anything. Its all so expensive. When a magnet costs $9 you figure your family doesnt really need a magnet that bad! Soda can cost up to $4 a can so be sure to get it at the grocery store dont buy it from the hotel! Those mini bars in the room arent free! We got back to the resort and went snorkeling again. When we went to the store on Tuesday we got bread and jelly and just ate that for lunch every day. We also brought lots of snacks with us which Im SO glad that we did. I really wanted a pearl so, after lunch, I called the Black Pearl Gem Company and they picked us up for free. No strings attached. This is such a great place. No hassle, friendly sales people, and free water, soda, and beer while you shop. I got a black pearl which I LOVE. They also let us wait for a later van back to our hotel and we got to walk around the little town that they were located in. I had called earlier that afternoon and made reservations at Te Honu Iti. They picked us up from the hotel around 7. This was my favorite restaurant of the whole trip. We sat outside on their overwater terrace. We had a great table right next to the edge you look over and see the fish and stingrays swimming in the water. I even walked down the steps to the water and petted a sting ray! It was a very romantic evening. You have to get the apple pie for dessert. SO good! We were at the restaurant for 2 hours. I didnt mind because I was having a great time but if you like the rush of American life, you have to prepare yourself because Tahitian life does not usually move very fast.

Day 6 Saturday June 26
This morning we just laid in the sun some more. We checked out at 11:00 and we left at noon to go to the airport to head to Bora Bora. When we got to the airport, this was the first time that they weighed our bags. My husband thought we would be charged for sure our suitcases looked like they were the largest ones there. Before we left he even got out the bathroom scale to weigh them! We werent charged though. Our plane finally arrived and we again sat on the left side of the plane for some great views of the other islands. We had a short stop in Huahine to let people off and on but were shortly on our way. As we got closer to Bora Bora it got more and more cloudy so I didnt get any pics from the plane. By the time we landed it was raining! The water was still fabulous. Honestly, the pictures dont do it justice. We found the Pearl Beach counter and in no time we were on the boat to head to the resort. When we got to the resort we were greeted with a flower lei, a cold washcloth, and some yummy juice. We were then taken to our over water bungalow. WOW! This was great! We had a great view of the main island. We didnt get the premium OWB so our view had other OWBs in sight but I didnt care in the least. It was still wonderful. Someone once wrote that they dont think that there is a bad OWB in the place and its so true! We took a quick walk around the grounds (still raining a little). We saw a couple getting married which was neat to watch. The grounds in Bora Bora are much larger than in Moorea but I personally prefer how lush and full of flowers the Pearl Beach grounds in Moorea are. Im glad we did the garden bungalow in Moorea and over water bungalow in Bora Bora. Since we didnt get to the resort until around 4:00pm, we just ate at the hotel restaurant. The chocolate cake is fabulous!

Day 7 Sunday June 27
We didnt do much today. It was lightly raining almost all day. Again, we had breakfast included with our package. I personally liked the buffet on Moorea better but I quickly found things to suit my taste. Hope you like runny scrambled eggs. they have plenty in Tahiti. Later in the day it cleared up for a short time and we fed the fish from our OWB. I cant believe all the beautiful fish that swim right up! We even saw a stingray swimming around our OWB a few times. Since it was Sunday a lot of the restaurants were closed. I called Top Dive and made dinner reservations. This caused a little confusion because we later found out that you can make ALL of your dinner reservations through the activities desk in the main lobby. This was the fanciest place we ate at the whole time if you bring nice clothes, this is the place to wear them. I wore skirts and sundresses for dinner every night so I was fine but we saw a couple that looked like they came straight from the beach... way underdressed. This was a great restaurant but for some reason my stomach was not cooperating so I didnt eat much. I was glad I brought that Pepto!

Day 8 Monday June 28
Today we took the boat to the main island. The hotel has a free boat ride across (they give you a schedule) and they have free van shuttles into town. We were going to rent a scooter and drive around the island but no luck. One place didnt have any scooters left and the other didnt rent scooters to begin with. We never did find the third rental place that was supposed to be there. All the cars seemed to be stick shift so that did us automatic people no good. Side note: we later read something from the hotel that gave me the impression that you can arrange rentals through the hotel. We had about one hour before the bus came back to pick us up so we just shopped. We got back to the hotel and decided to eat lunch at the restaurant there you can only eat so much bread and jelly. I had a cheeseburger and it was REALLY good. That afternoon we just laid around and went for a walk around the grounds. We went to happy hour that night and ended up skipping dinner since we had a late lunch. The hotel had their buffet and Polynesian show that night. We didnt want to pay $70 a person for another buffet so we came back to just watch the show. The show was inside the restaurant because it was so windy and there wasnt really any room for us so we more or less just listened to the music.

Day 9 Tuesday June 29
This morning after breakfast we booked the shark and stingray tour through the hotel. The tour boat left from the dock at 9:00 that morning so we had about one hour to get ready. This was one of my favorite parts of our whole trip! The tour took us by boat around the whole main island, which was great -- not to mention the sharks, stingrays, and coral garden that you see. That night we ate at Fare Manuia. Its just a TINY little restaurant but no less gourmet than any other place. You really have to be willing to try new things or you will hate the food on your trip.

Day 10 Wednesday June 30
Today we just laid on the beach and did nothing all day. That night we went to Bloody Marys for dinner. We ate with a few other couples that we had met. This was a great experience. This was the best meal I had on the whole trip I had what they called the chefs special - some kind of fish. Oh yeah, I hope you like fish because there is plenty of it! They do have meat and pasta options on almost all the menus but fish is what they are best at.

Day 11 Thursday July 1
Today my husband surprised me with a massage! The guy came to our over water bungalow and set up his table right in the room. That hour was just heaven! That night we went to the Bamboo House for dinner. My husband said that this was his favorite meal of the whole trip. We got the barbecue at the table. They bring out a hibachi grill and your raw meat and you cook it yourself right at the table.

Day 12 Friday July 2
Today was our last day in Bora Bora. Check out was at 11:00am and our boat to the airport wasnt until 5:00pm so the hotel let us keep our luggage in a room up front and we just laid around by the pool all day. My husband tried to wind surf. This nice local came over by us and I talked to his daughter while he showed my husband how to windsurf. Next thing I knew, the guy who was helping my husband was presiding at a wedding ceremony on the beach! His daughter stayed by us and narrated what everything meant that was great. They let us wait until 4:00 to pay our bill be sure to check your bill carefully and make sure its right we had two incorrect charges. After checkout we just went to the airport, to LA, and back home not much to talk about.

Overall, my honeymoon was FABOULOUS! We lived in our swimsuits during the day and I wore sundresses every night. Its true that everyone overpacks but theres really no avoiding it. Reef shoes came in handy for the stingray and shark tour. Got them cheap at Target. Be sure to bring your suntan lotion. Bring lots if cameras we used 7 disposable and 2 underwater in addition to the ones I took with my digital. Everything is very expensive there so be prepared for that so it doesnt bother you the whole time you are there. Pay for as much as you can with your credit card for the best exchange rate it also makes for much easier transactions. We didnt need much cash but you should definitely exchange some money. Dont forget to call your credit card company and tell them you are traveling out of the US. Now that security in airports is crazy, another tip is that we used plastic zip ties for our luggage which worked great (found at Wal-Mart by the home improvement section). Just remember to put a scissors or swiss army knife in an unlocked outer zipper of your checked luggage so that you can cut it off. It also came in handy when we had to leave our luggage unattended at the hotel. I felt completely safe throughout my trip. One thing I really like about the islands is that you can walk around at will its not like a third world country like some Caribbean destinations. Great accommodations at both hotels although I think the Pearl in Bora Bora could learn a few things about organization / service from the Pearl in Moorea. I would go back in a heartbeat.
Dawn
Chicago, IL USA - Thursday, July 15, 2004 at 13:23:00 (EDT)
We returned from our honeymoon in FP on may 31st, we were in heaven for 10 glorious days!! Our itinerary included 3 days in Moorea, 3 days in Huahine and 4 days in Bora Bora. If you are traveling from the East Coast I highly suggest booking a direct flight to LAX, we flew Northwest from Newark, NJ and had a stop in Detroit going to and coming from Los Angeles. Avoid layovers at all cost! Also, try to book online so you can have e-tickets instead, beats waiting in line. We flew out of LAX at 11:15PM and arrived in Papeete at 5AM.

Meal Tips we only had 1 mediocre meal for 10 days, everything was amazing! All the resorts had coffee maker and ingredients so we never ordered breakfast unless it was complimentary, we bought nutella spread in Moorea and it lasted for the whole trip. It was nice to have breakfast on our balcony at our own leisure. We picked up bread at the supermarket if we needed it along w/ snacks and beer. It was great to have cold beer w/out having to call room service.


Moorea - Intercontinental Beachcomber, Beach Bungalow #315
The bungalow we stayed at faces the water directly and is not obstructed by any OWB like the majority of the other beach bungalows at the resort, it was wonderful. Also check other bungalows starting from 310 and up, these have unobstructed views as well. We had a lovely view of the water and had terrific sunsets. We spent a lot of time on our balcony, for breakfast, occassional lunch, view the sunset and star gaze at night...amazing!

Activities we rented a scooter for a day the first morning we arrived. We drove around the island the next morning right before we had to return it at 8:30 AM, it took us about 45 minutes but it was a lovely drive. It was great to see everyone going about their morning routines. We also stopped by a supermarket (across from the road that leads to Belvedere) to pick up some bread, spread, snacks & hinano. On our second day we booked a rain shower & massage at Helene Spa and it was wonderful! We spent the morning of our 3rd day on a 4x4 Safari Jeep tour that we booked through Moorea Explorer. It was a great excursion and very informative. We took a ride up a very rocky road to Magic Mt, visited a Farm School to taste different fruit preserves, went up to Belvedere lookout and stopped at the local distillery where we had quite a few different liquors to taste (ok, i stopped at #4 and hubby drank the rest for me!). I highly recommend it. We rented a car after lunch and drove around the island again, this time going the other wayhehehe. In case you didnt know, theres only 1 road in Moorea & Bora Bora, so when exiting the hotel, you either go left or right. We really enjoyed driving around, there are so many amazing views of the mountain or the sea with each turn. At the same time you get to apprecieate the culture of FP at your leisure.

Eats we had lunch our first day at Coco Disle, DH had a hamburger and I had chicken w/ ginger sauce served w/ rice. It was our first real meal since we left home and it was delicious! I noticed the menu board had crepe w/ nutella and bananas and of course i had to have some, that was delicious as well! We took a very long nap after this meal & totally missed our first sunset & dinner! we packed some wheat thins for the trip and had that for our midnight snack along w/ the complimentary champagne we receivedhehehe on our second day, we had pizza from Miss Pizza for lunch. When exiting the Beachcomber, its a very short walk to the right. We brought it back to the hotel where we enjoyed it on our balcony w/ cold hinano! For dinner, we made reservations at La Plantation and the food there is excellent as well. We really did treat ourselves during the HM, that nightwe had 3 different desserts at La Plantationhehehe. On our last day, we had lunch at Iguana caf. Its at Le Petit Village, food was good but our waitress could have been a bit more welcoming. Our last dinner in Moorea was at Les Tipaniers and just like our other meals in Moorea, it was great. On a side note, we left our digital camera at the restaurant. we had quite a bit to drink so we didnt realize it til the next morning, while packing for our next island! I called the restaurant but they didnt open til 11AM, the same time our shuttle was scheduled to leave for the airport. I had already decided that if need be, wed take a cab back to the airport from the restaurant. While I was checking out, I told the front desk at the beachcomber of our situation and she mentioned that someone had dropped off a camera but didnt give further information, she needed to get more info from the night manager. Well it turns out that the bar tender at Les Tipaniers was also the shuttle driver who we passed when walking back to our room the night before so he remembered us. You can just imagine how thrilled we were, we werent even done paying off the digital camerahehehe.


Huahine Te Tiare Resort, Deep OWB #36
The bungalows at Te Tiare are very spacious and their balconies are just as roomy. The OWB are arranged in an arc and our bungalow was at the top of arc!! We had actually only booked a lagoon OWB but were offered a deep OWB when we arrived for an extra $50 per night, it was worth it!! When sitting on our balcony at night, it felt like we could be swallowed up by the sea and starts, it was amazing! They had a nightly turn down service, it was so nice to return from dinner to a comfy, welcoming bed! We cant wait to go back!

Activities we were looking at the various excursions at the hotels activity desk when we arrived and contemplated on booking a few but after spending some time on our balcony the first day, we thought it was best to just RELAX! We snorkeled quite a bit right off our bungalow and it was nice that they had a freshwater shower on the lower diving deck to wash of the sea. The water was about 12 feet deep around our bungalow.
A complimentary shuttle takes guests to the town of Fare. We went there on our 2nd day to scope out the town. We picked up more hinano and snacks at the supermarket and then had lunch at Chez Guynette. I had a croque monsieur and DH had a cheeseburger (thats about all they had on the menu) and it came w/ a side of salad or fries. Another simple but delicious lunch! With some time to kill before the next shuttle, we stopped by a roulotte across the supermarche to have some crepes.

Meals besides our lunch at Chey Guynette and crepes at the roulette in Fare, we dined at the resort the rest of the time. The restaurant is fantastic and we had some of our best meals during our trip there. My favorite appetizer was the crispy shrimp salad and for dessert, youll have to try the warm chocolate cake w/ homemade vanilla ice cream. You cant go wrong w/ any of the entrees, it was all cooked to perfection. We ordered room service for lunch on our last day and it arrived w/out any delays.


Bora Bora Le Meridien, Beach Bungalow #407
We stayed at a beach bungalow in the inner lagoon of the resort and its home to a turtle sanctuary. And what beautiful turtles they were! While the resort itself is large and beautiful, we did not enjoy it as much as the first 2 islands. Perhaps its because it was a larger resort and had more guests, we also noticed a few more families. Our bungalow was situated very nicely on the beach and we did not feel cramped in or too close to other bungalows. It also had a great view of Bora Bora proper and Mt. Otemanu. At night, however, it was quite bright because the main building/restaurant is right across the lagoon. So in order for us to properly stargaze on our hammock, we faced our bungalow instead of the water and the restaurant. The bungalow itself was the smallest of our 3 accommodations but it wasnt lacking in anything. The linens were changed daily, the beds were clean and comfortable.

Activities we booked a catamaran island tour through the resort and it was very enjoyable and relaxing. There were only 2 other couples on the catamaran so we each had a lot of room on the boat. We docked close to a motu for about 45 minutes to snorkel and they had some nice sea life in the area. The lagoon at Le Meridien is also great for snorkeling. There are the turtles, of course, as well as stingrays and other fish.

Meals on our first day, we snacked at the resorts beach eatery where they serve salads and paninis. The paninis were a good size and we wouldve probably been content with sharing one. But it was nice to have a meal right on the beach w/ our toes in the sand, there was also a beach volleyball game going on that was fun to watch. We had dinner at Bamboo House our first night and our server mentioned that they had a new chef. Well, dinner was wonderful and we made sure to give our compliments to the new chef. On our 2nd day, we had lunch at the pool side restaurant at the hotel and we shared at pizza that was just enough to fill us. I believe the pizza we ordered was Mt. Otemanu, named after the mountain on Bora Bora proper, I cant recall what was on the pizza but it was good. That night we enjoyed dinner at La Bounty, hubby had pasta alfredo and I had a fish entree. On our 3rd day, we went to the poolside restaurant at LM again but this time, we chose to bring back the pizza to our room w/out having to pay the room service price. Also, we drank it w/ our own Hinano. For dinner, we ate at the roulotte across from IC Beachcomber. They only had a few items on their menu, I had a rare tuna steak and hubby ordered a medium steak, both were grilled to perfection. It came w/ a side of salad and fries, an enjoyable dinner under the stars. Lunch on our 4th day was at Le Patoti, I had mahi mahi in vanilla sauce and it was a huge piece and hubby had steak, again! Unfortunately, we chose the wrong place for dinner. I suggest not even checking out Chez Matira, it was the only unsatisfying meal we had during our whole trip. For our last lunch on the island, we ate at the poolside restaurant again, I can't remember what we had but it was good =)



while planning the HM, I did a lot of reasearch and read quite a few reviews. most of the reviews i read on the the knot HM board claimed bora bora as their favorite island. it was a wonderful island but was actually our least favorite. at the time we went, le meridien had a lot more guests then the other resorts. so we didn't get the same "we're the only ppl in existence" feel...hehehe. but you can't know this until you get there. FP is such an amazing place that you can't really go wrong w/ your island choices. don't feel pressured by the reviews.

nafe <nafe1028@mail.com>
RP, NJ USA - Tuesday, June 22, 2004 at 16:08:34 (EDT)
It's been 2 weeks since we returned home and our trip is beginning to feel like a dream. This was our third trip to FP and much anticipated. Our destinations were Pension Havaiki onFakarava, Kia Ora Vilage and Sauvage on Rangiroa and Moorea Village.

Pension Havaiki and Fakarava - This turned out to be our favorite place. Fakarava is beautiful. And Pension Havaiki was perfect for us. Joachim met us at the airport in his little Toyota pickup. There were 7 of us, so 3 of us ended up sitting in the back of the pickup - a sure sign that this was going to be a different kind of adventure from our other trips. The simple bungalow with mosquito netting over the beds was comfortable and fit right into our surroundings. Clothilde's meals were excellent in taste and presentation. Breakfasts, we were informed by some French guests, were "French breakfasts" of baguetts, cheese, sliced meats, jams, fruit juice, hot drinks and sometimes fresh fruit. We were never hungry. Had many bicycle adventures to the village of Rotoava nearby, the fire tower and the Maitai Dream resort. A special treat were long walks on the beach, which seemed to go on forever. Later we found out that this stretch of beach is on one of the longest uninterrupted pieces of land in all of the Tuamotus. The bungalows sit right on the edge of a beautiful swimming and snorkeling beach. Larger coral heads are further out and it seemed like we were always in the water snorkeling. A pearl harvest (only 5 times a year) was taking place on our second day at the end of Joachim's dock in the pearl hut. We got to see the whole process. Very educational. Went to the Catholic church in the village on Sunday - beautiful singing. The other pension guests were very down-to-earth folks like us - all scuba divers but us. One couple spoke very little English, but other couples from France, Sweden and Germany spoke good English and we enjoyed our meals times visiting. A retired dental surgeon and his wife had visited Havaiki for 4 days last year and decided to come back for 15 days this time. How I envied him as we prepared to leave. It's a place we wouldn't get tired of. Another treat was seeing the freighter, Aranuii III sail through the pass into the lagoon and into the harbor area of Rotoava. We jumped on our bikes and went to watch them unload passengers. Got to talk to a few from New Zealand and Australia. They had been to many ports of call by then, including some in the Marquesas.

Kia Ora Village - what elegance awaited us here. We got in around 4 pm so it was too late to do anything. On our previous trip we spent 3 nights here and the whole resort was in the middle of a remodel. Well, the remodel was definitely done and everything was gorgeous and updated. Unfortunately, we witnessed a fire at the village that evening. It started in one bungalow and blew to 2 others before they got the water pumping out of the lagoon to put it out. That was way more excitement than anyone wanted to see. Completely destroyed 3 beautiful beach bungalows. Fortunately it wasn't our bungalow - we were in the lap of luxury for 1 night and took off for Sauvage the next morning. It was windy so the hour-long ride across the lagoon was pretty wild.

Kia Ora Sauvage - Was so fun to finally meet Michael (and Josephine) after all the great compliments and stories I've read on this bulletin board. He IS a great entertainer. Sauvage was everything we ever imagined it to be - except it was a little windy. We got used to the wind and learned from another couple to go snorkeling first thing in the morning before the wind really picked up. Michael said you want it to be windy, because when it's not, it gets hot and there are more bugs. The scenery at Sauvage is incredible. The motu is small enough to explore and if you get tired of one motu, you can wade over to the next one. This must be the place where they take all those calendar shots of palm trees and white sand bars, crystal clear lagoons and blue skies. Oh my gosh - every time I opened my eyes I was in disbelief. And the stars and moon at night were fantastic. I took a Southern Hemisphere star chart this time so I could identify the Southern Cross and some other constellations. Everything is so foreign looking up in the sky. The Big Dipper was upside down on the eastern horizon. The moon was only at half and there was still so much moonlight that it caste shadows and you didn't need a flashlight to walk around after dark. The bungalow was delightful and the step-down bathroom cool. Love the open showers, the coral floors, sprouting coconuts in the corners of the bathroom. Josephine adopted us after another couple left. She's sure an adaptable dog. Think how many people she meets in a year. Excursions were fun, but again, the boat rides were wild because of the windy conditions. Great snorkeling at Reef Island. Michael even arranged for a spear fishing trip just for us, because we asked if we could. The sharks and shark feeding were awesome. Sharks were usually out on the reef too where we snorkeled, but they never bothered us. Josephine accompanied us on many snorkeling and swimming adventures. Crazy dog. The food was excellent - mostly fish with creamy sauces. Always had a simple dessert too at dinner. Pancakes for breakfast every morning between 7 and 9. They blew a conch shell to let us know lunch and dinner were ready. Another very international crowd - Italian, French, and us. Finally had Americans arrive the day before we left - honeymooners from Boston - was fun to be able to jabber with them after careful conversation with French people who had limited English. The lanterns at night really set a mood. The solitude here was very special - you felt like you were the only ones there. Another wild ride back across the lagoon and we were off to Moorea

Moorea Village - Our last 4 nights were back on familiar ground, but at a new place. Our first 2 trips we stayed at Hotel Bali Hai which is no longer there. The Pearl Resort is on that location now and we had to go see what they had done. Nothing is recognizable from the old Bali Hai - very sad. Just another big fancy resort. We rented a car here for 2 days and went around the island, did some shopping, went to the Protestant church on Sunday - more beautiful singing. For dinners we ate one night at La Bateau - the floating boat restaurant at Linareva. Very nice. One night we ordered chicken from the Chicken Man, along with his rosemary potatoes - delish! (Thanks for that great suggestion.) Also ate at the Sunset restaurant at the Hotel Hibiscus - had the strange pizza that you get in FP, but it was very good. Enjoyed shopping at the magasins for baguettes and other stuff for breakfasts and lunches and ate these meals on our little deck on our bungalow. It was worth emailing ahead and asking for a beach bungalow. # 6 was waiting for us when we got there. It was a 3 day weekend for the locals (our Memorial Day weekend), so the place was full, but they still upgraded us to the beach and didn't charge us for it. That place was really hopping for 2 days and then everyone went home. Our last 2 days were probably more like it is when it's not a holiday. Took the boat out to the motu for some excellent snorkeling. I was a little disappointed with the quality of the water and coral right around the hotel, kind of murky, but the beach and sand are very nice and wide. You can also walk quite a ways down the beach to the right. The staff at MV were very helpful. It was a great place to enter back into civilization - Tahitian-style.

For the first few days we kept pinching ourselves. Couldn't believe we were actually back in French Polynesia. Early sunsets and darkness were weird - having some from daylight savings in Idaho. It was approaching the shortest day of the year, since we're almost at our longest day up here on the other side of the equator. After the sun went down, it was still an hour and a half until dinner. We found things to do and got used to it after awhile. All-in-all a wonderful 35th anniversary celebration. I will try to post photos soon to the album here.

Marsha <marsha@fpctechnology.com>
Boise, Idaho USA - Thursday, June 17, 2004 at 19:01:47 (EDT)
We took a cruise on the Paul Guaguin with our family to celebrate our parents' 50th wedding anniversary. I'd like to express much appreciation to Lauri of McKinney, Texas whose post on June 10, 2003 was very helpful. Without repeating her comments here, I can vouch that Lauri's descriptions and interpretations of the Paul Guagain services, amenities, excursions, etc. were accurate and still held true a year later. Please see her post for an extensive, detailed description.
I'll just elaborate on some other details that may be helpful to others.
This was our second trip to Tahiti; we visited in 1998 and not much has changed since then. The islands and lagoons are still gorgeous, virtually pristine, and the locals are very friendly. I did notice that tipping is becoming accepted. There wasn't an overt feeling about it, but we picked up on some body language that led us to believe if we offered a tip, it'd be accepted. That wasn't the case in 1998. We erroneously tried to tip at that time and every time the locals appeared embarassed and backed away.
We added an extra day at the Tahiti Beachcomber the day before embarking on the Paul Guaguin as part of the cruise package. The Beachcomber has improved a lot since 1998; there is a new vanishing edge pool and salt water lagoon stocked with tropical fish to go snorkeling in. The voucher program included in the cruise package was seamless. Meals at the Beachcomber were accomodated with no questions asked. We met up with three couples who had disembarked from the Paul Guaguin that day and they gave us a bunch of tips:
1) There is no 110 volt outlet in the Paul Guaguin suite bathroom. There's two outlets in the suite itself, one on the mirrored vanity and one on the TV/bar cabinet.
2) the hair dryer (110 volt) is stored under the bathroom sink
3) there's room under the bed to put all your luggage +
4) snorkeling gear is a bit beat up (so true, my husband's snorkel fell apart while snorkeling and he lost the mouthpiece)If you really like to snorkel, consider bringing your own mask and snorkel.
5) make your dinner reservations at Apicius (the French gourmet dinner restaurant on board) as soon as you can - all nights fills up.
6) guest speakers are very interesting and informative

Because we had a pre-cruise hotel stay, we were able to embark on the ship right at 3pm. We had balcony suite on the starboard side (it's true, the best views are from this side of the ship throughhout the majority of the cruise). We were able to unpack, get our snorkel gear, turn in our excursion form and relax with Pina Coladas on the pool deck before the sun went down! We watched the Air Tahiti Nui flight from LAX fly in over the ship...sure enough all of those passengers came on board about two hours later. We met up with the rest of our family in L'Etoille while having dinner. The waiters quickly moved some tables around (unbidden) so everyone could join us. The wines served with dinner were very nice and varied from day to day. Even my husband, who is a certified wine nut, enjoyed the house wines. He was in Heaven purusing the extensive wine list; lots of very good first and second growth vintages from France and Italy, a good selection of California wines, etc. The sommeliers were knowledgable and had a lot to say about just about any wine served.

The ship sailed at 10pm and if you have never cruised before (like me), it's a bit unsettling to feel the whole ship roll from side to side while you're trying to sleep. It wasn't extreme though and I didn't get seasick until the cruise from Bora Bora to Moorea. Too late I found out that the ship's infirmery has seasickness pills.

At the first stop in Raiatea, we took the Raiatea lagoon and snorkeling tour. As we motored around the island, we came upon a pod of dolphins. The captain cut the motor and we drove slowly; sure enough the dolphins came over to swim and leap alongside for about 15 minutes. They were only about three feet long and we saw lots of babies. We didn't feed them, but they seem to enjoy just investigating us and using the bow wake to propel themselves. Snorkeling was good even though the day was overcast. The boat captain gave us a snack of grapefruit and watermelon grown in his yard and fruit juice after snorkeling - it was refreshing. I'd forgotten how much more salty the ocean is here than Hawaii, for example, and it was nice to wash away the salt with something sweet. Discovered the following tip for keeping your snorkel mask clear and un-fogged: smear toothpaste around on the inside of the face mask and rinse it off with fresh water. You can do this on board beforehand, you don't have to do it right before snorlkeling. The toothpaste breaks the surface tension so water doesn't cling to the plastic. That and tightening the headband... (just kidding, the toothpaste trick actually works)

We took my parents' advice and ordered room service the morning we sailed into Taha'a. It was magnificant sitting on our balcony, watching the islands slip by as we ate. The hot chocolate is real, not the powdered instant stuff. If you like chocolate, order it. Hey it's included, so why not?!

We skipped the Taha'a excursions and went to Motu Mahana. There's good snorkeling, a fellow towing a fully stocked swim-up bar, so much food it's your own fault if you go hungry... The kayaks are fun, but they won't let you snorkel off of them. We also managed to run our kayak aground on the coral (cringe), there'a a lot of shallow areas around the isalnd. There are fresh water showers in the same building as the bathrooms. Very useful for rinsing off because the salt water fried my hair the first day on Raiatea.

Back on board, my husband went by the Carita Spa to buy some exfoliating scrub. They couldn't sell it to him because the person with the key to the cabinet was gone. He asked to have it billed and sent to his room, an arrangement to which they agreed. Didn't happen. He went down the next day and asked again; again the person with the key was gone and none of the staff seemed to care or make an effort to track down the key holder or figure out when the person would next be in the spa. We couldn't figure out why this stuff was locked up; it wasn't that expensive. My husband again asked to have it billed and sent to the room. When next we visited our room, we had a nasty-gram essentially blaming us for not being in our room to receive the spa's attempted delivery! They came in our room to leave the note, but not the product! Our credit card imprint was on file for all incidentals charged on board...go figure. Repeat the sequence of events above for a third time and finally, on the fourth try, a bag appeared in our suite three days after we initially requested. Further evidence that the Spa staff needs retraining (or something more definitive),I happened to be walking by the spa at ten minutes to 12 noon and I overheard one of the staff tell the other to lock the doors early(they close from 12 to 4pm). I wasn't surprised by this comment, the Carita Spa was the one exception to the high level of service on board. Given the poor massage experience of Lauri from McKinney, Texas, this will serve as your "buyer beware" cautionary re. the Carita Spa.

If you like lobster, have dinner in L'Etoile on either Sunday or Monday night, can't remember which. Sure, it was frozen at some point during transport, but it sure was good!

We planned a special celebration for our parents' 50th wedding anniversay with the help of the ship's management. They were very generous and accomodating and no detail went unnoticed. We had a private room, I believe it was the Captain's dining room. One group in our family had a Veranda stateroom, and their butler was so excited by the party, that he requested to come down and serve us himself. One of the management lent his own personal speakers so we could hook up an MP3 player during dinner. We asked if we could order from the E'Toile menu and we were accomodated with no problem. The kitchen put together special appetizers to go with the champagne before dinner. They also assembled a very nice anniversay cake. The head sommelier popped in, as did several other management, just to check on things. It was very nice.

We did the waverunner excursion on both Bora Bora and Moorea. Bora Bora was much more choppy and wild than Moorea, maybe it was just the weather. We'd done a waverunner tour of Bora Bora back in 1998 and I don't remember the feeling of sheer terror that I experienced this time, as I thought I'd lose my seat or grip as I slammed into waves and the wake of other waverunners! Anyway, the Bora Bora guide, John, was a hoot and a flirt with all the ladies. During the circumnavigation, we stopped on a motu and learned (and sampled) a lot about the stages of a coconut from the green jelly-like baby coconuts to the spongy sprouted coconuts.

We also went on the shark and ray feeding excursion in the Bora Bora lagoon. It sounded hoaky, but it was worth it. We stood in waist deep water and the rays came flapping. They fluttered up your legs and torso for a mackeral tidbit, very friendly and soft. The sharks were more scared of us and stayed on the fringes until the boat captain stopped tossing fish to them. They took off after the snacks dried up. The rays hung out, along with lots of butterfly and trigger fishes. The boat captain found an octopus and draped it on himself so we could touch it.

On shore, we took a side trip ove to the Hotel Bora Bora to revisit the bungalow we stayed in in 1998. Vavea was still there, looked the same (happy sigh), and the beach was still the most beautiful (another happy sigh). The resort still had that wonderful quiet and peaceful feel about it; you knew, logically, there were other people around, but you rarely saw any other guests or staff. Beautiful beautiful location, wonderful snorkeling, virtually private beach, great sevrice, wonderful French/Pacific Rim cuisine, etc. If that's what you like, head for Hotel Bora Bora.

On Moorea, we rented a car at the pier. It was manual transmission and the equivalent of a scooter for all the power and pick up it had. But, it got us up to Belvedere and to some shops.

We also went on the "day at the beach" excursion to the Sofitel Ia Ora's beach. We stayed at the Sofitel in 1998, and we wanted to see how the resort changed (it hadn't...nice!) The snorkeling was still very good and the beach is the best on the island. The overwater bungalows at the Sofitel are a lot of fun - there are no railings on the deck to contend with. You can get a running start in the bedroom and do cannon balls right off your deck! Most of the bungalows are in 15 feet of water, so you don't bottom out. All of the other overwater bungalows we've stayed in at other resorts had railings, so if jumping is your thing, check out the Sofitel. The one drawback to the Sofitel this time around was the bar. The excursion included one free drink at the bar. What that translates into is a beer or bottled water. A mixed drink, like a Mai Tai or Pina Colada is U.S. $5.00. The bar keep was quite snitty about the situation and didn't want to take any drink orders. She also extorted a "tip" by claiming we owed more than what she had initially asked for. She refused to give us change and her hanger-on pal, who didn't work there, badgered us about it. I got the impression that because we were American, they felt we owed them a tip (...because Americans tip...) One bad episode, but the rest was good.

We disembarked on Saturday morning and went straight to the Tahiti Beachcomber for the day until our flight out that night. We got virtually the same room, just on a different floor, as we had on the first day of our trip (which was virtually the same room, just on a different floor, as the one we had in 1998...weird). The rooms have been redecorated since 1998 and have split bamboo flooring, new tile, fixtures, granite countertops, etc. I thought our rooms this time around were very nice - until I saw my brother's and my parents' rooms. Their rooms were gorgeous!!! They overlooked the smaller vanishing edge pool with the swim-up bar, next to the Lotus restaurant. Their rooms had huge bath tubs, seperate shower, a much nicer bedroom, everything was nicer than our's. I was a bit disppointed, but considering it was just to be used as a day room, I let it go. If you're given the choice, ask for a room down by the original pool. I can't remember what our room numbers were, but they are on the opposite end of the property, towards the airport.

The flight home was a red-eye on Air Tahiti Nui. It was a packed flight, so everyone had to sleep sitting up in their seat. Try to remember to bring one of those inflatable horseshoe-shaped neck pillows.

Ia Orana!!



Mary Woodruff
Moorpark, CA USA - Tuesday, June 15, 2004 at 01:31:07 (EDT)
We were the very first guests at the lovely Hotel La Pirogue in Tahaa. Everything was wonderful! We stayed in a beach front bungalow with double sliding doors that when open look across the lagoon to Tahaa. The food & drinks were excellent. Severine and Giuliano (the owners) are excellent hosts and Giuliano (who is also the chef) is amazing! We enjoyed a large breakfast every morning (which was delivered at the time we requested the night before) on our balcony so that we could enjoy the morning view. Dinner was in the pretty open air restaurant by candlelight. We had no need that went unaddressed. We highly recommend La Pirogue and will definitely return again soon!
If you have any questions, you can email me at Easteriii@hotmail.com
The hotel's website is http://www.hotellapirogue.com/
J Easter
- Monday, June 14, 2004 at 14:21:16 (EDT)
Just returned from Pension CocoPerle in Ahe. Had a wonderful time. Emmanuelle, the new owner (who speaks excellent English) is remodelling the pension which we found quite clean and comfortable. If you are looking for a 5 star hotel, no pension is for you, but, if you are looking for a VERY out of the way Tahitian experience at a very reasonable price including meals, CocoPerle is PERFECT! There is good diving and snorkeling here if you are interested or you can just relax by the lagoon. The food was excellent and the lagoon was as smooth and clear as glass. The shallow table stretched for hundreds of yards and in the moonlight at night, it was easy to spot rays and many fish without a flashlight!! In the daytime, you could see hundreds of fish without even getting into the water. There used to be a pearl farm there, and the small house that contained it is still at the end of a long pier, now, being used as a place to read and relax. I can't wait to return. http://www.cocoperle.com/ You can go to http://babelfish.altavista.com/ to translate the website into english.
J Easter <Easteriii@hotmail.com>
- Monday, June 14, 2004 at 14:19:03 (EDT)
Just returned from Pension CocoPerle in Ahe. Had a wonderful time. Emmanuelle, the new owner is remodelling the pension which we found quite clean and comfortable. If you are looking for a 5 star hotel, no pension is for you, but, if you are looking for a VERY out of the way Tahitian experience at a very reasonable price including meals, CocoPerle is PERFECT! There is good diving and snorkeling here if you are interested or you can just relax by the lagoon. The food was excellent and the lagoon was as smooth and clear as glass. The shallow table stretched for hundreds of yards and in the moonlight at night, it was easy to spot rays and many fish without a flashlight!! In the daytime, you could see hundreds of fish without even getting into the water. There used to be a pearl farm there, and the small house that contained it is still at the end of a long pier, now, being used as a place to read and relax. I can't wait to return.
J Easter <Easteriii@hotmail.com>
- Monday, June 14, 2004 at 14:13:22 (EDT)
Recently returned from the lovely island of Huahine & the marvelous resort of Te Tiare. I received tons of helpful info from this site's discussion forum & they sure knew what they were talking about - it was everything I could have hoped for - & more.

LAX to Papeete on ATN - nice flight... easiest 8 hour flight I've ever had. Stayed the first night @ the Tahiti Beachcomber, which was very nice.
Upgraded to a Panoramic View room which gave us a lovely view of the island of Moorea in the morning, showing directly over the view of the hotel's
forever pool (where you can't tell where the pool ends & the ocean begins). Very nice hotel with lovely grounds and a couple first class pools, right next to
the lagoon.

Short morning flight to Huahine, greeted by the hotel's rep, easy transfer to the dock that takes you to the hotel. Since there's no roads to the hotel, it's all
done by a shuttle boat that runs hourly. We loved the ride to the hotel, as it gave you a chance to absorb the lush green land on your left vs. the coral reef
with it's waves and many shades of blue/aqua to your right. You knew you were in a paradise right away... and truly were.

Arrived at the hotels reception area to the sounds of one of the staffers blowing a concht shell horn - just like something out of Survivor or Fantasy
Island. While it might seem slightly hokie, it really was a fabulous way to arrive. The building housing the reception area, restaurant & a gift shop is
physically located over the water, like an Overwater Bungalow in its own right. They hand you a fruit drink & a damp washcloth to freshen up with, and then
it's time to relax.

We stayed in a Beach Bungalow for 4 nights (#9, which is further from everyone else) & then our last 2 nights in a Deep Overwater Bungalow.
Wonderful, big bungalows - clean, quaint, a very nice spot to call temporary home.

We did a jetski tour around the island, which was a blast (Monte from So. Cal. was a top notch tour guide & nice guy). Did the 4x4 tour which was very
informative. Also did the combination tour - motu picnic/snorkling/shark feeding. It was great! The picnic was at a location that look just like a Corona
commercial - lounging on a true beach paradise with the lapping waves in the background. All I needed was a pager to throw in the water (like the
commercial). Very good meal of poisson cru & local fruits, etc. Best pineapple I've ever tasted (better than Hawaii), even though they are more known for
their cantalope & watermelon grown on the island.

We snorkeled almost daily, as well as kayaked out to reefs off shore. Free, fun, and fantastic. We also enjoyed going into to the small town of Fare on the
boat shuttle, where we would do some shopping & check out local restaurants. Not much to choose from, because the location is very small - as
is its strength. Everything closes very early, which is part of what makes the place quaint... it isn't bustling, it's truly getting away from it all.

Te Tiare's staff was wonderful & friendly; & our meals there top notch (do the seafood buffet/Tahitian show on Friday). It was as good a trip & location as my wife & I have ever had - & we've traveled to many spots throughout the world.

I can't say enough good things about the island, the hotel, our trip, and the advice we rec'd from those on this board. If you are looking for paradise away from it all, this is one great option! I've already been scouring for a way to get us back, and soon.

Dan <gitbox_dan@myway.com>
Sacramento, CA - Monday, June 14, 2004 at 13:37:36 (EDT)
Honeymoon Review: Moorea/Bora Bora 5/21-5/30

Moorea-
We loved Moorea. I’m so glad we chose to go there. The green mountains everywhere are amazing. The weather was perfect every single day so we enjoyed every minute. It was a very charming island. It’s also a little easier to get around compared to Bora Bora but not as remote.

Moorea Beachcomber Garden Bungalow-
We arrived at night so we didn’t get to see the hotel grounds til the next morning. It was really pretty. Our room was very nice. We were very happy with the hotel and its amenities. The service was excellent and the staff was friendly. We never really ate at the hotel so can’t say much about the food. We did do the Polynesian show/Buffet dinner and that was great. They had all kinds of meats, fish, salads and desserts. We pigged out and then enjoyed the show. It was the best Polynesian show we saw. It was worth the money.
We rented bikes one day and went to the supermarket and shops at Le Petit Village, which was not too far from the hotel. There we bought water, ham and bread for sandwiches, which saved us some money.

Albert’s Shark Feeding and picnic-
Wow, this was awesome. One of the best excursions we did while on the islands. We also did the shark feeding in Bora Bora which was good too but Albert’s was way more organized and great fun. We loved the picnic and snorkeling on the motu. And we enjoyed the fish they made for us. Highly recommend this tour.

Jeep Safari-
We also liked this tour. We got to see the best parts of the island. Our guide was very knowledgeable and extremely nice.

Te Honu Iti Restaurant-
This was one of our favorite restaurants. The food was delicious. Plus, you get to see the stingrays and fish while you eat. Try the apple pie….very good. Highly recommend.

Chez Capo Restaurant-
I think this restaurant got built up so much that when we finally got to taste the food it was not what we expected. It was good but not great for us. My husband did like the poisson cru and we loved the natural juices but our entrees were not that great. I must say though, Capo is the nicest person you could ever meet.

Bora Bora-
All I can say is absolutely spectacular. We have never seen anything so beautiful. It is simply amazing. Words cannot describe this island…you have to see it for yourself. It was romantic, peaceful and isolated. Plus, the weather was perfect every single day. Those who are looking to really get away from it all but still have things to do should visit this island. We rented a car and went around the island a few times….very small. Everything is much more expensive on this island so don’t freak out when lunch for 2 turns out to be $50 without alcoholic drinks.

Le Meridien Bora Bora Overwater Bungalow-
I had read so many comments about this hotel, good and bad that I didn’t know what to believe. I’m so glad the negative comments didn’t keep us from this hotel. It was wonderful. To those of you who commented that the overwater bungalows were too dark, small and cramped…you’ve got to be kidding. No way!! We thought the bungalows were beautiful….not too dark or small at all. We loved everything about it…the room, the beach, the service and the staff. Everyone went out of their way to make our honeymoon completely memorable.
I had requested several specific bungalows online about a month before we left. When we arrived one of the managers informed us that the bungalow we requested was available but that they needed to fix the A/C. So, they treated us to a complimentary lunch while the room was ready. After lunch, the manager informed us that the A/C needed a new part and that there were no other overwater rooms available until the next day. Before I even reacted they offered us a choice of staying in the room with no A/C or in a beach bungalow for one night. Then they would move us the next day to the premium overwater bungalow I had also requested (the one at the very end #336). Plus they would tack on free breakfast every day. At that point we were even happy the A/C was broken cuz we thought it was a great offer. So, we decided to stay in the room with no A/C for one night, which was not bad at all. We slept with the door open and the breeze was perfect. By the way, not a single bug the whole time we were there. We moved to #336 the next day and it was amazing. There were fish under the bungalow all the time. We would definitely stay here again. We met a couple staying at the Pearl Resort and they wanted to hang out at our hotel because we had a beach.
We ate the buffet breakfast every morning and ate a panini for lunch at the snack hut on the beach almost every day.

Bora Bora Lagoonarium Tour-
This was the shark and stingray feeding tour which we also did in Moorea. We thought the one in Moorea (Albert’s) was better but we had a good time. Our guides were knowledgeable and very funny. Plus, you get to visit Coral Gardens (tons of fish) and the Lagoonarium where you even swim with lemon sharks among other fish.

Fare Manuia Restaurant-
This was recommended by some of the hotel staff. It was very good…nicer than what we expected. The dishes are mostly fish. You must have the chocolate cake. It’s the little souffl with the melted chocolate inside and ice cream on the side…to die for!!!! The service was fast. Highly recommend.

Bloody Mary’s-
We didn’t think it was a big deal. It was nice but we expected more from the food. My steak was very dry and my husband thought his fish was ok. You should go just to say you were there but the food wasn’t the best. The coconut ice cream was good.

We did 4 nights on both islands which we thought was enough to get a feel for the islands and the people.

Ohh, I almost forgot to mention a few tips:

*take your own snorkel mask if you have one. Even though the hotels will lend you one they are not the greatest.

*take tons of sunscreen, the sun is extreme.

*plan to spend at least $150 a day on food. Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere and the ATM machine worked fine both times I used one.

*enjoy the sunrises and sunsets....they are beautiful!

*don't overpack. Ladies, all you need is a few sun dresses or skirts, 1-2 bathing suits, a few shorts/tank tops and flip flops. Guys, shorts, t-shirts, bathing suit, 1-2 nice shirts, a pair of nice pants and flip flops. Water shoes are a must...best 8 dollars we spent.


Well, I hope this helps someone. Sorry for the length.

Jeanette
Miami, FL - Wednesday, June 02, 2004 at 21:12:21 (EDT)
Ia Orana!

I just returned from an amazing honeymoon in paradise. We spent 4 nights in Moorea, 4 nights in Bora Bora, and 3 nights in Tahiti all at the Intercontinental Beachcomber Resorts. Id like to give a big Maururu Roa to everyone here for all of their suggestions and help which came in very handy. My trip review will be composed of 4 sections: 1) Moorea 2) Bora Bora 3) Tahiti 4) Miscellaneous (i.e Ambassador Club, Meal Plans (MAP) etc)

1. Moorea Intercontinental Beachcomber Resort: (4 nights) After a 7 and a 1/2 hour flight from LAX to Papeete, it was only a short 10 minute flight to Moorea where we spent the first 4 nights at the Beachcomber. We stayed in overwater bungalow 514 (one of the only true overwater bungalows at the resort) which was absolutely amazing with unobstructed breathtaking views of the horizon. The snorkeling immediately outside of the bungalow was probably among the best spots at this resort although the water tends to be a bit choppy from the constant breeze during the day so be sure to wear your fins and bring a DRY TOP snorkel! The food on the MAP was absolutely incredible (see below for more details). We did however, stock up on bottled water and baguettes (each 3 foot long baguette = only 43 XPF! for snacking and feeding the fish) at a small magasin approximately 5 minutes away by walking (take a right onto the main road from the resort and the store will be on your right. Note: the store closes daily from 12-3pm for a break and is only open Sunday in the morning)

Activities/Excursions (other than snorkeling):

1) 4x4 Tour Albert Transport: Cost = 40,000 XPF per person: We signed up with Albert Transport for this very worthwhile excursion around Moorea. There was a shack/office right outside of the Beachcomber (literally across the street) where you can sign up and get around the extra commission charged by the Beachcomber. Hint: Dont forget to bring sunscreen and apply bug spray BEFORE heading out!!! If you plan on bringing back some alcohol, be sure to buy it at the juice /distillery factory as the prices will be the best that you will come across. If vanilla beans are on your shopping list, I suggest you buy them at the agricultural school where 5 beans will cost you 900 XPF. The prices for vanilla beans were generally much higher everywhere else.

2) Shark & Ray feeding with Motu Picnic at the Coral Gardens Albert Transport: Cost = 60,000 XPF per person. Again, totally worth it and also much less expensive than the one on Bora Bora.

3) Bicycle Ride: Highly recommended. You can rent bikes from the Beachcomber for 13,000 XPF per person for 4 hours but we went with a company called Rent a Bike that rented bikes for 10,000 XPF per bike for the entire day. They will actually pick you up for FREE and their telephone #: 711 109 Hint: BRING LOTS OF WATER. I would estimate 2+ liters of water for 2 people over 3-4 hours so bring a light backpack and fill up with more water at the roadside magasins when you run out. The bikes were actually pretty decent 18 speed mountain bikes in reasonably good shape and the road around the island is paved. Enjoy the sights, the intermittent breeze, and go at a leisurely pace! We biked east for 13 km before heading back.


2. Bora Bora Intercontinental Beachcomber Resort: (4 nights) Just when we thought that it couldnt get any more beautiful, then came the Bora Bora portion of the trip. The beauty of the lagoon cant be overstated! We stayed in overwater bungalow 71 which was a lagoon OWB with an amazing view of the aquamarine lagoon and mount Otemanu. The sliding glass table was loads of fun! They even supply free baguettes at the activities desk for the sole purpose of feeding the fish (although get them earlier in the day as they tend to run out by evening). Happy hour from 4-5pm was a great way to wind down the day with half price drinks (although the menu says that the special only applies to exotic drinks, the discount applies to ALL cocktails including non-alcoholic cocktails).

Activities/Excursions (other than snorkeling):

1) 4x4 excursion Tapuna Safari: Cost = normally 65,000 XPF per person although this excursion was included as part of our package. Unlike the Moorea 4x4, this excursion involved more off-roading (LOTS of bumps and steep inclines) and the 4x4 vehicle reflected the difference: On Moorea, the 4x4 was a Mazda pick-up whereas on Bora Bora, the 4x4 was a Landrover Defender.Although the excursion was also highly enjoyable Im not sure I would have done both 4x4 excursions if one wasnt included as part of the honeymoon package

2) Bicycle Ride: As with the bike ride in Moorea, a highly recommended and affordable activity. You can rent mountain bikes from the boutique right across the street from the Beachcomber for 10,000 XPF per person for 8 hours. Go earlier in the morning as the selection of bikes is best in the morning. Vaitape is only a 20 minute bike ride from the Beachcomber by bike so be sure to stop along the way to visit the shops and stock up on H20 (see above). You can also stop at Bloody Marys on the way back for lunch (open 11am to 3pm). Dont forget the sunscreen and lots of H20!! BTW, the closest magasin to the beachcomber is about a 10 minute walk/ 2 minute bike ride going east from the boutique.


3. Tahiti Intercontinental Beachcomber Resort: (3 nights) I suppose this portion of the trip served as a nice transition back to the hustle and bustle of the industrial world. At this stop, the Ambassador Card (formerly known as the Six Continents) only allowed for an upgrade from a Garden View room to a Panoramic View room secondary to the resort being extremely full (see below). Unlike the other 2 Intercontinental resorts, this resort had a larger, more commercialized feel and didnt feel quite as intimate (especially with all of the of airplanes landing. You cant really hear them but you can certainly see em!). Our Panoramic room, however, was very elegant / luxurious with an antique, almost Bombay Company like dcor. Our meal plan at this resort was only for the American Breakfast Buffet so we ate our dinners at the Roullotes at the Tahua Vaiete docks in downtown Papeete. The short ride by Le Truck from the Beachcomber costs 130 XPF per person before 6pm and 200 XPF per person after 6pm. (I would recommend leaving at 5:30pm) The Chow Mein is pretty good although the Steak and Fries at 9500 XPF was our favorite! I recommend the Hong Kong roulotte for steak and fries and roulette Kim for the chow mein. The butter / sugar crepes topped with coconut ice cream from the Vesuvious roulotte were the best Ive ever had!!

Activities/Excursions

1) Full Day Circle Island Tour - Marama Tours: Cost = 44,000 XPF + 6000 XPF entrance fee to the Gauguin Museum. After bouncing up and down in the back of 4x4s on Bora Bora and Moorea, we decided to go with a nice air conditioned circle island tour. This tour proved to be the most imformative and was really quite nice (although a long day from 9:30 am to 4:30pm). Highly recommended!

2) Shopping Downtown: This is the time to stock up on the souveniers and gifts to bring back. The big 2 level market alot of fun and a definite must see. Soaps, monoi oil, t-shirts, fruit jams, tahitian coffee, flavored teas, woven products, wood carvings, pareaos, necklaces, and postcards etc are all here.

Miscellaneous:

The Ambassador Club (formerly Six Continents Club): Totally worth the $150 cost but be careful and realistic. We were upgraded from Beach Bungalows to Overwater Bungalows at Moorea and Bora Bora but things nearly did not pan out at Bora Bora. When we first arrived at Bora Bora, the concierge informed us that the resort was full and that he could only upgrade us to an OWB AFTER the first night. As luck would have it, he returned 5 minutes later with news that there was a last minute cancellation and that he could give us an OWB for the entire stay. In Tahiti, we initially made reservations for a Garden View room and was hoping for a *big* upgrade. Although the concierge searched in the computer system for several minutes, the highest possible upgrade he could give us was a panoramic view room as the resort being was totally full. I probably could have pushed for a higher upgrade the following day but the panoramic room was just fine. My recommendations is that for those of you traveling during a busy month or during high season, keep in mind that it may be a bit of a gamble banking on an upgrade all the way to OWBs. If having a particular level of accommodations is absolutely important, it may be worth purchasing at that particular level for at least part of the stay.

Meal Plan: Our honeymoon vacation package included a *free* MAP (Modified American meal Plan) for Moorea and Bora Bora, and an American Breakfast plan in Tahiti. The free meals promotion by the Intercontinental Resorts (which may still be available) is that you get the *free* MAP at BB and Moorea and a breakfast plan in Tahiti AS LONG AS you stay at least 1 night in Tahiti. The MAP includes the American Breakfast = Full Breakfast buffet and an allowance for dinner. In Moorea, the allowance was 50,000 XPF per person and in BB, it was 70,000 XPF per person. NOTE: drinks are NOT included in the dinner allowance and bottled water was anywhere from 300 to 490 XPF. IMHO, this plan was TOTALLY worth it. The breakfast buffets were absolutely fantastic. If you had to purchase an American Breakfast separately, it would cost about 28,900 XPF per person!! Highlights include: omelettes/eggs made to order, pancakes made to order, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, hash brown potatoes, crispy fried has browns, pastries, breads, croissants, danish, exotic jams, fruit juice, coffe, tea, fresh fruits (pineapple, cantelope, kiwi, watermelon, papaya, guava etc..), miso soup, Japanese rice porridge, stir fried veggies, yogurt. The allowance in Moorea is essentially enough to cover an entre plus a dessert or an appetizer whereas the allowance in BB is enough to cover a starter, an entre, AND a dessert (although you still might be a a little over). The dinners were absolutely exquisite (gourmet 5 star quality) especially the desserts! Although we probably would have had just as great of a time eating food from the magasins for breakfast/lunch and then going out to the local restaurants for a nice dinner, the free MAP promotion really simplified things for us and was a bargain we could not pass up!

Things Im glad brought:

1) Zip Lock Bags: to keep baguette pieces dry while snorkeling
2) Swim Trunks with a 3rd velcro/zipper pocket to hold the baguettes (see above) while snorkeling
3) Snorkel Set from Costco: The US Divers snorkel set from Costco costs about $38 and includes a mask, fins, a dry top snorkel, and a very nice carry bag. We actually left the fins at home to save space in the luggage and opted to use the fins supplied by the resorts. The best part of the set had to be the dry top snorkel which kept the mouthpiece dry as a desert even in choppy water! The mask could have fit a little better but was totally fine for a one size fit all mask.
4) Sunscreen: the Coppertone SPF 45 from Costco costs about $8 and includes both a 12 oz. and 4 oz bottle and worked very well. A great value
5) Bug Spray: Make sure it has DEET! Be sure to apply BEFORE going out especially on the 4x4 safari rides.
6) Eddie Bauer Sport bottle from Target: The 1 liter sized lexan bottle for $6 was a life saver. The wide mouth leak proof top made it easy to make and store Gatorade
7) Gatorade: Get a container of the dried powder from your local grocery store
8) His and hers small backpack: great for hauling water, sunscreen, bug spray on those excursions and bike rides
9) Plastic grocery bags to help re-arrange and store things in your luggage
10) Wide brimmed boonie hat: REI (www.rei.com) sells a nice unisex Dorfman Pacific Boonie hat with a hibiscus trim for $15 and is quite stylish!
11) Extra battery for the digital camera: The hot temperatures means that your digital cameras will lose their battery charge faster and having 2 fully charged batteries each day means no down time for picture. You can get replacement batteries from Ebay for cheap 
12) Woolite: Bring a small bottle for doing light loads. You can bring a small rectangular plastic storage container which can serve as both a storage compartment in your luggage and a small wash basin.
13) Jan Prince's Book - Tahiti and French Polynesia Guide: A very handy reference and a fun read

- Derek in LA
DerekinLA <derekfong@yahoo.com>
Los Angeles, CA USA - Wednesday, June 02, 2004 at 20:11:08 (EDT)
Tahiti- Manihi; May 22-29th

Tahiti on Sat. 10hrs.layovers was a bit taxing on old bones. Had pizza, yummm in Tahiti. Most places closed on Sat. , wished we had spent the night prior to LAX, getting there was late pms and closed at 8pm, most food places, hence, hotel drinks...not much to say at the Sheraton, definite langguage barrier.

Manihi, awesome , friendly hotel at the Pearl Beach for 6 nights. A tad windy, fish outstanding, could be our pets---great BBQ/picnic where food was delicious, get to fish for own food 2, and get to even feed/fish and play with the sharks...or snorkle in one of the most beautiful., calm lagoon, a must do at $85pp for the day starts 9am to 330pm.Some say the very best in Polynesia since the water at the hotel tend to be murky due to the wind constantly blowing at times a tad 2 windy...visibility, however, very clear from our OWB--tons of fish, colorful, quite large2, as well as shark circling our coffee table on our last noc., ooohhhh what a night it really, really was...

Activites, free to include bicycling on the Island of Manihi, lagoon view to almost town side; free boat directly on a daily schedule @1130pm 'till 1230pm to town, for one hour stroll..

Enjoy, have some Hinano and cheers!

Ceil

PS, Can anyone help with our next trip to Huahini/Island or to
another ATOLL--ie, Tikahu---??--where there are lots of fish to snorkle and NOT so windy like in Manihi?? Pls. feel free to e-mail me limanc2222@yahoo.com
ceil <limanc2222@yahoo.com>
norwalk, ca usa - Wednesday, June 02, 2004 at 19:06:51 (EDT)
Huahine May 13-18, 2004. Te Tiare - deep OWB
Tahiti May 18-22, 2004. Le Meridien OWB
This was our 2nd trip to FP. We flew Air Tahiti Nui, and preferred this to Air France. At PPT, we checked in with Air Tahiti for our flight to Huahine, and had to check our pilot-style carry on bags, as they were too big. This put us over the weight limit, so we had to pay. We sat on the left side of the plane, which allowed us an aerial view of Tahiti, Moorea, then Huahine.
A driver picked us up at the airport and took us to the dock for the 15 minute boat ride to Te Tiare. We were met with leis. The rooms and the decks are huge, and we used the ladder into the water everyday for fantastic snorkeling. I love the fresh water showers on the deck. One disappointment was that the beach bar was closed indefinitely.
In town we bought bread, cheese, and mixes for the rum we bought at LAX duty free. Our $18 bottle of Myers rum cost $45 at the grocery store in Fare. At 11:15am, the bread was already sold out. We had a great fish burger at a roulette for 400 xpf. Most of the shops were closed for lunch, so we walked to Les Daulphins for our first Hinano.
We ate at the hotel for dinner a few nights and found the service to be extremely slow. I understand the European/Island-style long dinners, but one night it took 45 minutes to get dessert.
The next night we went into town for dinner, and wanted to try Chez Guynette, but they were closed, so we went to Poetaina, and had a wonderful experience there. I was concerned about walking into town from the dock in the dark, but the entire town was very well lit. Poe was our waitress, and explained the fresh fishes and sauces available that night. I had wahoo with vanilla sauce, and my husband, tuna with pineapple/banana/coco sauce, which was fantastic! We ordered our coffee with coconut milk, which someone recommended on this board, which we loved. Poe told us that her sister Taina (that's where they got the name Poe-taina) was doing a circle island outrigger cruise the next day. We took it, and stopped at all the hot spots, eels, pearl farm, snorkeling, eating poisson cru lunch on tables and chairs in the water at the motu.
Snorkeled and relaxed the next couple days, and really enjoyed feeding french bread (40 xfp each!) to the fish, and even saw a shark swim by! Went to happy hour at Te Tiare which offered 6 different drinks, including Maitai for 750 xfp. Also Hinano and 2 wines at a discount. They had 3 musicians playing. Ate again at Poetaina and again had a wonderful meal and got to spend more time talking with Poe, who was charming.
Flew to Tahiti. Wanted to take a cab from PPT to Le Meridien, but there was only 1 small car there, and we had 4 people. They said all the cabs were meeting a cruise ship. They said we couldn't even call one. We just had to wait. Shortly, a larger cab came, but we could have been stuck there for awhile, so I would prearrange transfers next time.
Le Meridien was nice, and we enjoyed the OWB and saw tons of fish from our balcony. The current was very strong though, so we chose not to snorkel. The grounds were beautiful, and well manicured. Enjoyed the sand-bottom pool.
There is a plaza of shops and restaurants that we walked to. There was a bakery there, that sold sandwiches on long french bread for under 400 xfp! And pastries that looked delicious. There is a grocery store, too. In the same plaza, we ate dinner at La Cigalon one night, and another, Chez Remy, which were both good.
We used the hotel shuttle into town for 1000 xfp round trip. I love the market.
We took a 4x4 tour up into the volcanic crater, which was wonderful. The mountains and waterfalls, and views of Tahiti are just gorgeous. I wouldn't want to stay in the city, but the rest of the island is so striking. We swam in the pool underneath the 80m waterfall. It was perfect that we chose that day for the tour, as it was Ascension Thursday, and everything was closed. Banks, stores, and alot of restaurants, too. The grocery store near us had limited hours, and we wanted to buy Hinano, but no alcohol could be sold that day.
We went to Tahiti Ariki, where they make rums, Noni, chocolate, beer, among other things. The tour was neat, the shop small, but packed with goods. Marc, the New York born owner, was very hospitable, gave us lunch, ice cream, tastings of liquors. It was not fancy, and they don't have a restaurant, we just ate outside, but had an enjoyable time.
The blowhole is a great stop, especially for the huge waves crashing on the black rocks and sand.
Le Coco's was the most extravagant restaurant we dined at on the trip. The setting is fabulous, where you can have drinks on a lawn leading right to the beach, and hear the waves crash as you enjoy your meal.
Now we will begin saving to return!

Natalie
Pittsburgh, PA USA - Thursday, May 27, 2004 at 14:57:12 (EDT)
Just returned May 14 from 2 weeks in the French Polynesia - experience of a lifetime!! Flew Air Tahiti Nui out of LA (ticket agents were great both ways - there were empty seats on the flight, so they booked us each at the end of a middle row so that no one was between us and we could lie down and sleep). First day in Papeete was spent at the Sheraton - pricey, but nice. Got hosed on the cab ride from the airport to the Sheraton - $50!! but you can't do much about alternative transportation at 5:00 am. So I don't recommend using the cabs unless you absolutely have to. We ended up using the local bus system on Tahiti (le Truck) - once you get the hang of it, it's cheap and handy. They are just refurbished trucks with benches in the back and everyone rides back there. YOu just tell the driver where you want to go, and they will drop you at the right stop. Only costs $1.30 per person during the day, $2.00 after 6:00 pm. Great way to meet locals and practice your high school French!

Our first week was spent on the cruiseship Windstar - without a doubt, the most spectacular cruise I've ever done. Only 140 guests and 80 staff - your every need is instantly met! We did every scuba dive they offered, plus parasailing, motu BBQ and land rover excursion. Diving is a little pricier on the boat than if you do it through a dive shop on an island, but this way, we got to dive at each of the islands where the boat stopped. Huahine had great diving, so did Bora Bora - we had our best dives in Moorea. If you are snorkelling, it's nice to have your own mask and snorkel, but you can get fins anywhere.

After our cruise week, we disembarked in Papeete and went straight to Moorea for our last 5 days. We stayed at the Village Faimano, which is a little penzionne literally 100 yards from the Sheraton. It was perfect! If you don't need room service, and you don't mind fixing a little food of your own, it is the ideal spot - the little fridge kept freezing food - I had to turn it down! Handy little gas range and a bathroom twice the size of the kitchen. Valerie takes care of the place and speaks very good English. Fantastic snorkelling right out front (the best of the trip), and you can use the facilities of the Sheraton if you need them (we went diving from there with Top Dive and rented a car from there as well.)

On our way back from Moorea to Tahiti, we flew on the little island air service - only a 7 minute flight, but a nice view of the islands. On the way there, we had used the Moorea express ferry (30 mins) and I think I liked it better. Overall, it was an amazing holiday. A few hints and tips:

- check to see if there are any French holidays falling on dates during your trip - we couldn't do any laundry on a Sat in Papeete b/c everything was closed for a French holiday (including the hotels' laundry services). And it's the capital city!
- learn a few basic French phrases. People will be much more likely to talk with you in English if you at least try to say hello in French (bon jour) or Tahitian (orana).
- don't expect fancy shopping or pristine surroundings or any kind of "night life". Once you step outside the resort hotels, you are essentially in a third world nation, and some things are a bit primitive. Learn to deal with it, or don't go. There are no clubs or discos or anything - everyone is in bed by 9:30 at night (and up at 5:30!)
- buy your black pearls either at a pearl farm, a local jeweller (not a store) or the Papeete Central market. There are lots to be found, so shop around. We got a fantastic huge peacock colored pearl at the market for half the price of the stores.
- watch out for some unexpectedly expensive things. A Hinano beer (great local bottled beer) in the Sheraton Tahiti was $3.50, but a glass of pineapple juice was $8.00!!
- take along things like sunscreen (and lots of it - it's expensive too), bug spray, ziplocs, a flashlight, a sharp knife, and film. I had no trouble buying batteries, but had to go to 3 stores to find film and even then it was 200 speed. I never had to use my bug coils, but they are a good idea too - travel candles came in handy as well. Also, a pair of Speedo water shoes for walking around in the snorkeling areas is a good idea - protects you from coral cuts.

Thanks to other folks from this board for suggesting these things to me!!!

We have terrific memories of our trip (inlcuding getting engaged), and can't wait to go back - already thinking about returning in 2006.

Have a great trip!!
Marion and Robert <marion_schroeder@yahoo.com>
Calgary, AB Canada - Monday, May 17, 2004 at 14:30:54 (EDT)
Hello to South Sea Dreamers:

My wife and I just returned from a 10 day cruise on the Tahitian Princess
(April 17-27) out of Tahiti- what a trip! The ship, much smaller than most
cruise ships, was absolutely the finest we have ever sailed on. We flew
Tahati Nui Airline out of LAX and were met at the airport with smiles and
welcomes by the Tahiti Princess ground crew, effortlessly transported to the
ship, and to the most spacious cabin I have ever seen on a cruise ship. For
the next ten days we sailed from one fantasy island to the next, each one
more beautiful than the last (Bora Bora, Moorea, Roratonga, and some others
I cant spell!) The food service was excellent and the meals were a notch
above typical "cruise food".The shore excursions were well planned and
executed. Tip- don't worry if the shipboard excursions are booked up- there
are plenty of alternative trips on the beach, some cheaper than the ship
bookings. The debarkation was painless, especially if you are flying
business or first class. Avoid the charter flight if you can ,and fly Air Tahiti
Nui. Their business class is well worth the extra dollars and make the 8 hr.
Ocean crossing bearable . To the Tahitian Princess captain and crew- Well
Done, and thanks for a truely wonderful cruise.

Harry Caldwell
Houston
harrycaldwell@houston.rr.com <harrycaldwell@houston.rr.com>
houston, texas USA - Friday, May 07, 2004 at 17:28:59 (EDT)
We came back a few weeks ago from Moorea. What an amazing and moving experience. This board helped us out so much, so make sure you use it to the fullest. Per the recommendation from Barbara and this board, we stayed at Moorea Village. SO glad that we did - and I would not stay anywhere else. Moorea Village helps you experience Moorea, the culture and just the feeling of the island. This is not just a vacation, but it is an experience. And if you go the right way it can really shape you as a person.

We did two meals and really wished we wouldn't have because the food is not good at all and expensive. Our room had a fridge and that worked out perfect. We went to the grocery store and had a picnic on the balcony everyday. If you are thinking of what food to bring - I recommend a lot of granola bars, crystal light, instant oatmeal or anything were you just add water (use bottled water). Also bring plastic silverware, ziplock bags, your own snorkeling gear for the motu, bug coils, matches, candles, bug repelent, food knife, suntan lotion and an extra swimsuit because my shot off at moc 1 on beach (no big deal because everyone is topless). We lived in our swimsuit but the other thing for women to wear that is great is little sundresses. Seal up ALL your food. We went running like wild men the first night to barbara and randy's when we seen a HUGE geico in our place. Don't worry about them, by day 5 we were getting a kick out of watching them eat bugs and mate. The chickens are the best alive or for dinner!!!! You can't help but love them. They pretty much crow everywhere all day long. Somehow in the mornings they manage to do that under your balcony. For dinner, go to the chicken man in the yellow bus - fantastic!

If you go to Moorea Village, take care of Chokie the beach dog. He is so sweet. We would feed him and he would sleep on the floor of our room. He is scared of thunderstorms, but likes to watch the sunset with someone.

A coconut fell out of a tree and hit me on the head - not much advice on preventing that.

We rented a car for one day - I recommend doing that.

DO NOT GO TO TIKI VILLAGE THEATER! Waste of money. The only cool thing is when they throw fire and that last for only 5 minutes.

GO TO THE MOTU! The cool thing about Moorea village is that the ride to the Motu is free so you can go as much as you want. Bring a little bread for the fish (they like french bread the best) as it makes it so fun. After going there we had no desire to do any tours. On the first day we saw 5 rays, a shark and a morea eel - it was great!

The best part of the trip is the friends we made. They invited us into their homes, had us for dinner and treated us like family. We were and still are very touched. It will be hard to decide if you think the water or the hills were more beautiful - but for us, it was the people. You have to get the word schedule and time out of your vocabulary. This is not a trip where you plan on this or schedule that. You need to just go with the flow and do what you feel like. Don't think you will miss anything.

Moorea village has some of the most interesting people who stay there, so make sure you get to know your neighbors. It is really sad to be home because it is so good for a person mentally. Either you get or you don't. If you get it...it will be the vacation of your life and you will only think of when you can go back.
Jodi and Dan <zentradancer@yahoo.com>
Chicago, IL USA - Tuesday, April 20, 2004 at 12:11:21 (EDT)
Okay, this is really late, but here goes our summary of the trip we took to French Polynesia in early December 2003......

We recently spent a great week in French Polynesia. Rather than use Air Tahiti Nui through Los Angeles, we flew on Hawaiian Airlines from San Francisco to Honolulu the day after Thanksgiving, and then on to Papeete a day later.

We decided to use Hawaiian Air for a couple reasons. We wanted to break up the trip into two manageable parts over two days, and also we wanted to spend time in Hawaii on both ends of our vacation. It worked out well for us. The plane from Honolulu to Papeete wasnt crowded at all, so we were able to stretch out over several seats. When we got there, we were met just outside the gate and driven to the Sheraton Tahiti, a 10-minute ride.

After spending the night in Tahiti, we took the ferry to Moorea, which is such a dramatic island! Everywhere you look there are these soaring mountains. The two bays on the north shore are both breathtaking.

We had an over-water bungalow at the Sheraton Moorea and loved it.

We took the 4X4 tour offered by Albert on Moorea, and Im sorry I did. First off, they really packed us into the back like cattle they wanted to put 10 of us back there! One couple refused and sat in the cab of the truck with the driver, but it was still a little too crowded for my tastes.

The worst part, though, was the bumpiness, particularly on the way up to the waterfall. It was so bad that when we got to the point where the waterfall hike began, I decided to hike back down to the road instead. I couldnt stand that bumpy ride a second time! As it turned out, the waterfall wasnt that impressive Doug says one woman kind of had a look on her face that said, Is that all? Anybody whos spent a fair time in Hawaii has seen plenty of nice waterfalls without having their kidneys up in their throats.

The highlight of the 4X4 was Belvedere, but you dont need a 4X4 to see it! You can go up in a rental car, because the way is smoothly paved. Also, they took us to a couple of tourist traps that sell black pearls and liquor. So, Im sorry we took that tour. Better to rent a car and explore the island on your own.

The Sofitel Motu on Bora Bora was just heavenly. The room was superb. We were in room 120, and had a lovely view of the mountain. There also was nice coral just beneath our room, so we didnt have to go far to snorkel. The shower had one of those big water fixtures right over your head it was so nice that we wound up taking 3 or 4 showers a day. The bathroom also had two sinks, something the Sheraton Moorea lacked. Also, the room had a day bed, a nice convenience. Lots of places to store your stuff, too.

Service at the Motu was top-notch. If youre too lazy to walk to the ice machine, theyll bring over a bucket of ice in just a few minutes.

One criticism is of the air conditioner its really hard to get it to be the right temperature, and we woke up in the middle of the night shivering. Also, every time you open the sliding glass door to the lanai, it shuts off the air conditioner, and it doesnt come back on when you close the door. You have to re-program the air conditioner using the remote control. It was a nuisance. When we were checking out, we heard one couple complaining that they couldnt get their air conditioner to work. Despite what some people have written, we felt you do really need air conditioning, especially during the day.

We took out a kayak (no charge) and went around the motu to see the coral gardens. It was definitely worth it! The coral was great and there was a nice selection of fish to watch. Theres no beach on that side so you have to set your kayak up on the rocks, which is a bit of an inconvenience, but its more than worth it.

On our first day, we walked up to the top of motu to watch the sunset. It was really nice. They have benches there for watching sunsets and sunrises.

Being on the motu instead of on the main island means you get nice breezes. We realized how important that is one early afternoon when we took the boat to the island and walked over to the grocery store. The heat and humidity was just about unbearable, with not a bit of breeze there.

We took the shark/ray feeding boat tour one morning. It cost about $60 per person and it was worth it. For some reason (they said the water was too choppy, although it didnt look bad to me) they didnt let us go in the water during the shark feeding, so we watched from the boat. Then they stopped off at a sandy bottom part of the lagoon so we could get wet while they chopped open a few coconuts for us to sample. It was really pleasant just circling the island, enjoying the beauty of the place. Getting into the water with the rays was the highlight, though. They are really big, and there were so many of them. They glide past, rubbing against your body, letting you pet them. They feel like wet rubber. We saw a reef shark circling the area, but it never got close to us.

One morning we got up to watch the sunrise, and it was just breathtaking to see. And we got a bonus a leopard ray came by our bungalow, nibbling on the coral just below our porch!

If the Sofitel Motu has a policy against bringing in groceries, nobody told us about it. We came back from the store a couple of times carrying baguettes and other munchies, and didnt have any problem with the staff. One staff member even suggested we go to the grocery store to pick up stuff we need.

One thing I loveda ice cream bar called Maxibon. Yummy! Its made by Nestle, and Ive never seen it in the U.S. I wish they sold it here!

We enjoyed dinner in three different places on Bora Bora, all reasonably priced. The first night was at Snack Patoti, a charming little place just a short walk from the Sofitel Marara. The next night we went to La Bounty, which is also within an easy walk of Marara. Besides liking the fish, as a bonus there was a group of singers called the Bounty Boys who were quite good. The last dinner was at Restaurant Matira, which probably was our favorite of the three. Its not within walking distance, but they will pick you up for free from Marara. The menu is varied, with quite a few Chinese dishes.

Some people have offered their opinions on French Polynesia vs. Hawaii, so heres my two cents worth. I know Hawaii much better than FP, and havent explored that many of FPs islands. Definitely, Oahu is too developed for my tastes, and Maui is heading in that direction. But you still can get away from it all on the Big Island, Molokai, Lanai and Kauai. I enjoyed FP a lot, and maybe after repeated visits Id grow to love it as much as I do Hawaii. For now, though, Hawaii holds a special place in my heart. It is also kind of nice to be in a place where everybody speaks English, and you dont have to bother with passports or currency conversion. As far as the people are concerned, the people were great.

Bob and Doug <rar855@yahoo.com>
San Jose, CA USA - Monday, April 19, 2004 at 01:53:39 (EDT)
My husband and I returned from French Polynesia two weeks ago, after a 14-day tour of the islands. Bora Bora was the best, but the other islands are definitely worth seeing. We stayed in Sofitels on Moorea, Huahine, Bora Bora, and Tahiti; and a Pearl Resort on Raiatea. They were all really nice, quite natural. We had a taste of the 'upper crust' when I did the Dolphin Quest at the Intercontinental on Moorea. It looked gorgeous, but I liked the
'natural-ness' of the beach bungalow at the Sofitel on Moorea. Their snorkeling trip and 'captain' were great, as was the food at all the Sofitels. Probably would not go back to Huahine, a bit too rustic, but the boat trip to the Pearl Farm was cool. Raiatea is good a stop, we spent two days there, the Pearl Resort was very nice. They upgraded us to an OW bungalow at no extra charge! We had a island tour with Bill Kolhans, had him all to ourselves. He is a WEALTH of knowledge, having lived there for 23 years, a retired Navy Captain with 2 DRs from Columbia, one in anthropoloby. The town of Uturoa is interesting, too. Developing into a cruise-ship stop, there are some nice restaurants and grocery stores to get cheap food/drink.
Bora Bora is the crown jewel however. The Sofital Marara is fine, dined at the Sofitel Motu one night - the place was really exotic and the restuarant top-notch. We walked around the OW bungalows, but didn't see inside any. The 4x4 trip is a MUST, as is the shark/ray feeding trip. Have since seen the Bora Bora lodge detailed on the Travel channel, wonder if the extra $100s per night would make a difference. As was reported, don't spend more than a day on Tahiti, just enought to do an island tour. Unless you absolutely love and appreciated the Guaguin museum, don't bother with it. There are three fascinating large wooden Tikis in the gardens however, discovered and delivered from the Australs.
Make sure to convert at least $50 dollars to CFPs per week, some banks charge extra fees that make their net exchange rate equal to hotels. Bloody Mary's on Bora Bora is a MUST also.
We will definitely go back, once the piggy bank fills up!
judy schreffler <schreffler@earthlin.net>
york, pa usa - Saturday, April 10, 2004 at 14:30:20 (EDT)
This is very overdue but I wanted to post it anyhow. We went to Moorea and Bora Bora for our 20th wedding anniversary, January 2003. We stayed at the Beachcomber Inter-continental at both islands which I understand is a way to save a few dollars by staying within the same hotel chain. Anyhow, I am glad that we stayed at both of them, we visited other hotels while we were there and found them to be the best of everything we visited. I felt it was a much nicer location than Pearl Beach. Our visit was the best vacation of a life time, I don't know if I ever want to return because I am not sure we could duplicate the fun we had. It was the most romantic place on earth, our weather was great, food was great (yes pricey...but you're on vacation) The only thing I may have done a little different is to visit one more island, one of the smaller ones. Snorekling was the best I every experienced. Go there you will love it....Stay at Beachcomber it is the best!!
Kelly <kgeml@aol.com>
Harrison Township, MI USA - Monday, April 05, 2004 at 13:32:53 (EDT)
Ia Orana! Here's the scoop on the Te Tiare.
We returned 3 weeks ago after the most incredible vacation AGAIN at the Te Tiare. We
were there 2 years ago and had such a wonderful experience that we researched the
internet and travel agencies and newspapers to find a deal that would enable us to
afford a return visit sooner than later. Voila, we found an affordable package and off
we went. The Te Tiare and Huahine are as close to perfect as one can find!!! We
endured the Air Tahiti Nui flight (sorry, gotta tell you that it is the worst airline: food,
service, and the SEATS are the worst of the worst) and then hopped on the 30 min Air
Tahiti flight to Huahine. Franz greeted us at the airport and off we went on the short
but scenic drive through Fare to the boat transfer station. The boat transfer service is
owned by American Richard Shamel who also has a deep-sea fishing charter. His
transfer boats run like clockwork and his crew is courteous and competent.
The boat trip to Te Tiare makes one realize why this island is so special........Tahaa'a
and Raiatea on the starboard and the Huahine coastline on the port. We didn't see
dolphins this time but never mind; we saw lots of other marine life at the resort.
We rounded the point and motored into the loveliest cove that is home to the Te
Tiare. Absolutely, a breathtaking experience if you are doing it for the first time and
such a welcoming one if you are fortunate like we were to come for a second
time............felt like a homecoming of sorts, really. The resort is so special........the
lobby starts at the boat dock where guests are welcomed by the blowing of the conch
shell and fresh towels to wipe away the cares of the "other world". Guests proceed to
the lobby area which is open to the cove and provides a view of the lagoon, beach,
and the bungalows.
We were given such a warm welcome that felt incredible!! Most of the hotel staff
remembered us from our last visit and went out of their way to welcome us back.
Mind you, we gave no "heads up" of our return visit via fax, phone, or email.....they
simply recognized our names and faces. While we were there, 2 other couples
returned to the Te Tiare for their 2nd visits. One couple came for 3 weeks.......how is
that for an endorsement?!
Henri Mou Sin is the manager of the Front Desk.....he heads up a gracious staff. He is
an interesting fellow who competes in the Hawaiki Nui Outrigger canoe races. It is fun
to watch him work out as he commutes daily in his canoe from his home in Fitii.
Needless to say, he is fit! Henri has quite the sense of humor and we enjoyed our time
with him and Nui, his wife. When he blew the conch shell to bid us good-bye.well, it
was very sentimental for sure!
Our package included a meal plan which is not what we usually opt for but since it
was part of the deal, hey!! The food at the Te Tiare is incomparable (better than the
food on the Paul Gauguin.YES, really!) Magnificent, fabulous, amazing, and on
and on! The fish is fresh local (mahi, tuna, moon fish) and what food isn't, comes from
NZ as does the poultry, lamb, beef, and I think the duck does as well. My favorite
entree was the grilled tuna on top of a slice of island sweet potato surrounded with
Chinese pepper sauce..........must have had it 4 times. My second favorite was the
selection of fish and shrimp......in a light sauce and stir fried veggies. There is nothing
better than sitting on the deck of the restaurant watching the fish jumping out of the
water while sipping Chardonnay........having the lovely 'Nui (Henri's lovely wife),
Raima, Raina, and of course the incomparable Lionel explain the evening's menu.
Lionel is a lot of fun and has a very dry wit,so watch out!
Desserts are awesome......fresh apple pie in a flaky crust with homemade vanilla ice
cream, creme brulee served in a coconut shell (the best!), and warm molten chocolate
cake. One night the dessert was fresh pineapple grilled served warm with homemade
ice cream. Another appetizer specialty was Bayonne ham, Huahine grown cantaloupe
and a glass of port YUMMO! Another favorite was Chicken fafa.if its not on the
menu, ask! Happy hour at the bar is fun and at the time we were there, the bartender
was Eric who was one funny guy. He was moving on to the Pearl at Tahaaa to be
closer to his family on Raiatea and also to explore options for starting his own
business. If your path ever crosses Erics, get him to make you his sauted fresh
coconut. He is quite a guy and left us laughing everyday. Delano often is in the bar at
happy hour and will show guests his skills at weaving hats, baskets, and trays. He is
very creative as well. If you are lucky, 'Nui or Raina or Raima will weave a floral
headdress for you....so fragrant and beautiful.
We spent our days lazing in the lagoon, paddling on the kayaks down the coast to the
Hotel Hana Iti ruins or the other coves close by (husband paddled to the reef for
snorkeling but not me), snorkeling in the cove or renting a scooter at Euopcar (avoid
Hertz! we did not have a good experience with them). The Sofitel has a nice beach and
coral gardens for snorkeling but the hotel is so run down and far from most anything.
One night during our stay, it was reported that they were completely empty of
guests!! We stopped along the way to see the blue eyed eels, walked through the
maraes, ate at Relais Mahana and Pension Mauraii for lunches, and enjoyed every
village for all that each offered in scenery and lovely people.
We also enjoyed hanging out in Fare at Chez Guynette..talk about a terrific people
watching place! The beers are ice cold and the waitresses are fun. The place is owned
by an American woman named Marty. Our favorite for poisson cru is Restaurant Bar Te
Marara owned by Guy and Edna Flohr. The place is fun local hangout and we ate lunch
there several times, and even got shouted beers by the Flohrs. They are so hospitable!
They sponsor an outrigger team and are quite enthusiastic fans.
Besides Hinano, we tried Tiki Tabu or Tabu Tiki, another Tahitian beer which was
good. You can get French wines from the supermarche in Fare but be careful of the
ones on sale; sometimes they are very bruised and sour. The wharf in Fare is great
fun. The farmers bring in their melons for the cargo ships to take and there are ferry
boats and cruise ships that dock. Local fisherman bring in their catches. Kids jump off
the wharf and play in the water...........alot of fun people watching for sure.
You will enjoy several things that happen at the cove at the Te Tiare. The Tu Moana
cruise ship motors past once a week and ties up at Fare pier. Looks like a personal
yacht and could be quite a fun cruise. The other (and the best to me) are the 20 or so
outriggers that come around the cove from Fare/Fitii round about 5 pm, training for
the races. Quite a site. William from the Te Tiare also races with Henri and it is
awesome to see these fellows paddling by on their workouts.
We also took an island tour. We booked a morning with Paul an American fellow from
the University of Hawaii who started his own company called Eco Tours. We learned a
lot about Tahitian archeology, anthropology, farming, and saw several maraes outside
of the village of Maeva. This tour is VERY worthwhile doing.especially before
you strike out on your own. Makes everything that you see and do more valuable, in
our opinion.
We also got to meet Jan Prince, author of the Tahiti and French Polynesia Guide. She
was over from Moorea to gather updated info for the 4th edition of her book. We
really enjoyed our time spent with her and learned much from her. She is wonderful!
Quickly to end this long report:
Bugs: A few mozzies at night but hardly worth mentioning. Never used DEET spray at
the Te Tiare.
Rooms: Huge, comfortable, cleaned twice daily, mini bar.large decks with sun and
shade, the best!!! Ingrid was our housekeeper who did a wonderful job looking after
us and she was so fun to practice language with.our Tahitian and her English.
Birds: One of my all time fond memories are those pesky mynah birds who get into
the tree every dawn and dusk and squwak and sing their hearts out. I am smiling now
just thinking about the racket they can make.......their version of Ode to Joy or
something!
Sea life: Abundant this visit in our cove. Saw octopi (is that right?), moray eels, lion
fish, box fish, rays, lemon and black tip sharks, plus many Moorish Idols, etc right
from the pontoons.
Grounds: The Te Tiare flora has flourished in the 2 years since we were there. There
are flowers and trees everywhere and you will find yourself just wandering the
property to enjoy the amazing varieties of plants. Say hi to Rodrique who works in the
garden for us!
Beach Bar: Great place to head for cold beers and salads and sandwiches at lunchtime
(great pomme frittes as well!). This is where our Tahitian language lessons began with
Sylvie, Maneva, and Parai. They are lovely young women and so much fun! The Beach
Bar is a great way to spend a few hours and get enriched culturally!
Ping Pong: A table has been added by the pool since our last visit. And, the
tournament for the grand champion of all of French Polynesia was held every
afternoon. It became quite the event (HAH!). Steven (husband) would play with staff
members Rolland, Delano, William, Steeve (staff and proper spelling of his name, by
the way), as well as any and all guests who were foolhardy enough to join in.
Well, this has taken up tons of space and hasnt touched everything at the Te Tiare
and on the island of Huahine.
Alain Druet is truly a great General Manager and has a wonderful staff that embodies
the meaning of Tahitian Hospitality.
Go, have fun, and appreciate your time there. You will not be disappointed! Email us
with any questions and be sure to add us to your buddy list on any Lotto
tickets.......you know how we will spend our money! Nana, Brooke and Steven

Vaitape
Santa Barbara, CA - Thursday, April 01, 2004 at 14:23:21 (EST)
Reveillon 2004: Tahiti (1 day), Moorea (2 days), Bora Bora (4 days).

Ia orana i te matahiti api --- Happy New Year!

First of all sorry for my English. I just want to give my feedback to this forum (that was really helpful to me).

I went to FP with my boyfriend, parents, brother and cousin (ages: 23 to 60). We are from Brazil so we flew by Lan Chile to Santiago and than to Papeete with a 30 minutes stop at Easter Islands airport (I would like to spend one day on there to see the Rapa Nuis Moais).

TAHITI Beachcomber Hotel, Lagoon Room, 224. The room was cute and had a good view to the main swimming pool (great), lagoon, some bangalows and it was close to the bar, so you can enjoy the sunset live band show from your terrace. The show happens everyday around 5 pm.

Tiare Restaurant (hotel): Great buffet breakfast; Slow service at lunch.

Le Lotus Restaurant (hotel * overwater): Excellent New French dinner. We ordered salads, lamb, duck, fresh lagoon fish, wines, everything perfect. Make reservation for a table by the water.

MOOREA Beachcomber Hotel, Garden Room. The room 264 on the ground floor was better than Tahiti one. Actually it was a beach view room. Nice pool.

Chez Kapo Restaurant: We tried to make resarvations to Le Mahogany trough the hotel but they recommended Chez Kapo. Its a very small and simple open air place with tipical tasty food and friendly service. Free pick-up.

Te Honu Iti Restaurant: Excellent Classical French cuisine. I ordered a seafood combination that was the best. Make reservation for a table by the water. We saw about 4 rays, many fishes and a kind of a water snake (sorry, I dont know the name in English). 1000 cfp for pick-up and slow service.

Dolphin Quest: We didnt participate but you can watch this by the bridge and take some good photos.*

Snorkeling: We took a outrigger canoe for free (kayaks are free just for 1 hours) and went to the motu in front of the hotel. Great!

Black Pearls: My mother and cousin bought it at Le Petit Village but the best part to me was the free diet cokes, free internet acess and visited the neighbour Roonui Tattoo. Great arts but you need to book it 5 days before. We asked for someone on Papeete and he recommended the Marquesas Islands Brothers at the Papeete Market. We forgot thats going to be Sunday and they were closed.

BORA BORA * Sofitel Marara, * Garden Bangalow, 43. It was the last bangalow in the garden, simple with a nice island atmosphere and I loved it. Small pool. We had to ask for towels everydays, the mini-bars refrigerator was not working, but we were well attend.

On the other hand, it isnt my honeymoon. Evenctualy at night you really can hear some disco music from the hotels around but it didint disturb me.

Others brazilians tourists that we met were so disapointed with the Island service. But honestly, the untouched nature, fishes, lagoon, sky, cuture, tiares parfum fascinated me so much that nothing could boring me.

New Year Fest at Marara: Great cocnut drink cocktail, not so good food (the lobster was raw for everybody), nice Polynesian show, but the disco closed soon at 1 am.

La Bounty Restaurant: Very nice and simple. The waitress was from the group that performed the polynesian show at the Mararas New Year Fest. 5 minutes walk.

Top Dive Restarant: New French. Delicious! Salads, Seafood, etc. Pretty place, nice laggon view. Free pick-up.

Club Med: These is the place for single tourists and families. My brother and cousin had a lot of fun. The buffet was excellent with Foie Gras, escargot, all kind of meats (most from New Zeland and Australia), salads, breads, cheese. Not a romantic dinner but funny. After dinner we watched a dance show (during the show G.O.s staffs - invited us to the stage to dance a brazilian song) and than disco. 6100 cpf each.

Shark and Ray Feeding: I forgot some advices at home so I booked through the hotel (and not through TEVIA Tours). We didnt stop for snorkeling, just for swimming and no motu picnic :( but its ok, we did a * circle island and the sharks and rays are many and lovely.

Snorkeling: Outrigger Canoe or Kayak to sea side from Sofitel Motu (better than between motus). Wonderful. My cousin dives and did it at the hotel. She saw many sharks, rays and got really close to them but the corals was poor. It was amazing and she got a video tape from it.

My borther is a windsurfer and he didnt like it at Marara (too large board and small sail). I surf (there are no waves for sure) but I took only the board to swim to the corals or just floating away in a relaxing lone sunbathing.

* Belvedere passing Club Med entrance: nice because you can see both W and E side of the island, but not necessary if you have a 4x4 tour.

Renting a bike 2 hours: We went to Point Matira... beautiful! We also tried to see the U.S. cannons in front Matira Restaurant but the owner said that we have to pay a tour.

Unfortunately I didnt try the Roulottes and the 4x4 tour but I wish to come back to do it (great idea!). My parents took a taxi for circle island (they dont like walking distances or bikes). The vahine driver was very friendly, at the end invited them to her house to meet her family, cuture and gave them tipical fruits from her garden!

My father liked Tabu better than Hinano. Its more like a pilsen beer (ideal for tropical weather).

Brazil is a Tropical spot too, so on the first day on Moorea the sky looked cloudy to me. I use no sun protection and it was not a good idea. The tahitian sun U.V. is really high plus the crystal water reflection, so take care. Use protectin lotion even when its cloudy because the sun can show up anytime.

Well... expect luxury, Im not talking about material one, Its about nature and soul.

(*) photo at http://www.tahiti-explorer.com/travel/index.cgi?mode=album&album=./Reveillon2004

Luciana and Rafael, So Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Luciana & Rafael (BrazilianJJ) <cariocacp@bol.com.br>
Sao Paulo & Rio de Janeiro, Brazil - Tuesday, January 13, 2004 at 03:38:28 (EST)
Jan. 6, 2004
We just got back from 3 nights in Rangiroa, followed by 4 nights in Bora Bora.
Having been to many tropical locations, French Polynesia is the most
beautiful of them all. Especially the palm-lined shores, the white sand, and the
varying shades of blue and turquise water!

The Kia Ora Village in Rangiroa is remote and lovely, with incredible
snorkeling right in front of your beach bungalow or overwater bungalow. The
hotel is very spiify as everything has just been renovated. But on both islands
you have to be patient with the slow service, and overlook the high-priced
marginal food. Also, if you're looking for shopping or night life, I do not
recommend Rangiroa as there is barely a village. But if you're trying to get
away from it all and love to snorkel or dive, (like we do), this is your spot!

Also, nobody informed us before we went about the different climates of the
Leeward society islands (Bora Bora, Moorea, Huahine, Tahiti, etc.) and the
Norhtern ones that include Rangiroa and Tikehau. The latter ones are flat
atolls that are much dryer, sunnier and breezier and attract much less rainfall
than the jungly mountainous islands to the South. Bora Bora was much more
humid and rained 4 out of 5 days we were there. It seems there are always
clouds hanging around the volvanic peaks, however picturesque they may
be. The Sofitel Motu on Bora Bora is an incredible location, but I wouldn't
return there until they spiff it up a bit. Every ice machine was broken (which
are very important because the refrigerators to not get the drinks cold
enough), the sheets were old and had burn holes in them, and the bath
towels were all frayed and old. I don't think they've replaced anything since
they opened in 1999, and guess what, it's time! The resort had that feeling of
lack of management, but all the resorts in FP had very slow restuarant service.
We weren't crazy about the food at two of the Sofitels either, but it wasn't bad
at Kia Ora Village.
Bottom Line: don't go to French Polynesia for fine dining or shopping or
action. But go for beauty, relaxation and ocean activities. We loved it!

Kaye & Brian <bredwards51@cox.net>
Santa Barbara, CA U.S.A. - Wednesday, January 07, 2004 at 01:20:58 (EST)
Hi everyone! I just got back from FP and I wanted to share my experiences. I went in a family group of six (ages 42, 36, 22, 20, 17, & 15), and we all had an amazing time. This was my third time to FP, but everyone else was seeing it for the first time.

We got on the plane in LA, so the plane was pretty full. The bad part about this is that sitting together is a bit of a problem for groups our size, particularly when boarding more than two-thirds of the way into the journey. Now, sitting alone is no big deal for me, but our two youngest travellers had never been on a plane before, and the 22-year old is severely afraid of turbulence, so it would have been nice to be able to sit together in order to reassure the timid ones. Anyway, just something to keep in mind if you plan a trip to FP in a medium to large group. We were at the airport three hours in advance and it still didn't do any good.

We did hit some pretty bad turbulence on the way, but we got there in one piece! Having been there before, I knew better than to spend too much time on Tahiti, so I scheduled our itinerary so that we were only in Papeete for about an hour and a half before we were off to Bora Bora. I highly recommend this. I also highly recommend sitting on the left side of the plane (is that starboard?, I don't know) if you fly Air Tahiti from Papeete to Bora Bora. You see excellent views of Raiatea, Taha'a, and Bora Bora from the left side.

Okay, so after landing on the tiny motu landing strip on Bora Bora, we were escorted by small boat to the Pearl Beach Resort. This was my second time to this resort so obviously I recommend it. The water was slightly shallower than it was a year ago which is no big deal unless you intend to do dives (or cannonballs) from your overwater bungalow. Oh, did I mention that we stayed in overwater bungalows? Oops. Anyway, for those conservationists concerned about damage to the reef, have no fear at Pearl Beach. It's an all-sand bottom, and I can't imagine any ecological damage being done either during construction or during your stay. So have fun! The Pearl Resort is beautiful, and since it's also on a motu, you get an amazing view of the main peak on Bora Bora. The OWB's (overwater bungalows) were well-appointed, and the air conditioner worked great (it was very hot and humid when we went - late December). Do not expect much from the in-room refrigerators! They barely keep cold drinks cool, so forget about trying to make room temperature drinks cold by putting them in the fridge. Between my last two trips to this resort, I've been in 7 OWB's there, and all of the fridges are the same. The staff is very friendly and helpful, although they move waaaay slower than most US citizens are accustomed to. Get used to it, and you'll be fine. For those of you who want to get your drink on, I suggest ordering two at a time or else you may be waiting a while for refills.

Okay, so things to do while you're there...definitely do the shark/ray feeding tour. The one we did took us to deep waters, and there were around twenty to thirty black-tipped reef sharks enjoying an up-close feeding frenzy. The tour operator hired an underwater cameraman to take shots of the sharks snarfing up fish heads while all our legs thrashed about in the water. Great stuff! Be warned, though. The guy will hit you with a semi-high-pressure sell at the end of the tour. The product? A DVD of the group's adventures. The price? $130 US! Yeah, I know everything is more expensive there, but either budget in advance or get your stern "No, thank you" ready. If you do decide to stay at the Pearl, I suggest snagging a sea kayak, and paddling out to the reef break. It's a long paddle (30 minutes or so), so bring sunscreen. When you get about twenty yards from the break, anchor your sea kayak and enjoy some amazing snorkeling. Oops, did I forget to tell you to pack your snorkel gear and an anchor? Don't worry - they have all of the above at the pool shack. This is the best free excursion I've seen over there. Or you could pay $150-250 US for a boat to take you to snorkel somewhere else, your choice.

The food at the Pearl? Well, let's just say I hope you like seafood. If not, go with the cheeseburger. Just remember that no one does American food the way Americans do. End of story. We all did the meal plan, but it was only because of our large group size. I suggest trying the meal plan for a day and deciding afterwards if it's for you. Keep in mind that every other restaurant is on the main island, so taking the (free) shuttle boat and bus is your other option, but it's a little time-consuming.

After four nights we were about to fly via helicopter to le Taha'a Pearl Resort when we found out that our 'copter reservation wasn't confirmed. Boo. But what happened next was the highlight of our trip. Our resourceful front desk manager arranged for us to take the cargo ship. Yes, for only $8 US per person, we were on our way to Taha'a. Yeah, so it took three hours or so, but it was an experience! Our luggage was roughly loaded into the cargo bay in a wooden box, but it arrived safely. Being loaded myself, I enjoyed the trip immensely (note to future cargo ship travellers - no booze allowed on board, so drink up before you embark).

When we got off the ship, the amazingly friendly le Taha'a Pearl resort staff were waiting to escort us by small boat to the resort. They gave us hot towels, welcome drinks, and laughed the whole way over about how we were the only ones to ever arrive by cargo/freight boat. The resort? Nothing short of spectacular! An ultra-private island, OWB's that far surpassed the ones at the Bora Bora Pearl Resort, 24-hour tennis courts, volleyball, hammocks, great snorkeling, swim-up pool bar, beautiful restaurants, etc etc etc. We stayed in the "Bora Bora Premium" OWB's, which meant that we got the best views of distant Bora Bora. Very cool (and romantic).

The next three days and nights were flawless. My only "complaint" was that they didn't refill the mini-bar once during our stay. I let the food and beverage manager know so maybe this won't be an issue in the future. The food was very good there, and since the OWB's have expansive decks, having room service on the deck is really nice too.

As for excursions, the only one we did was the jet ski rental and it was loads of fun. Unless you're really really into jet skis and are in great physical shape, I recommend the half hour rentals instead of the one hour rentals. It's a hell of a workout!

I highly recommend the le Taha'a Pearl Resort to anyone, especially honeymooners. It's peaceful, private, beautiful, and full of amenities. Unfortunately, it's pricey even for FP standards. But if you want paradise on roughly the same level as some of the private islands in the Seychelles, go for it.

The flight back on Air France had the most horrendous steward/ess service I've ever seen. It even prompted me to write them a letter. Enough said.

Some general observations:

The local beer (Hinano) is a sufficient tropical thirst-quencher, but I'd rate it about the same as Budweiser.
Beer connoiseurs should be prepared to be less than thrilled.

Most tropical drinks at the two resorts we visited were around $15. Drunks and alcoholics both should keep that in mind.

You're allowed around 70 lb of luggage per person on the international portion of the trip, but only 40 lb or so for the inter-
island flights. Unless you plan to dump some luggage in Papeete, try to keep your luggage under 50 lb per person or else
you may pay a surcharge.

Food in FP isn't cooked as long as it is in the U.S. Unless this is your thing, be prepared to order cheeseburgers
well done ("bien cuit" or something like that). The same for bacon, hash browns, fish, etc etc etc.

There's no absolute rule regarding tipping. Some people will tell you not to tip anything, some say at your discretion,
etc. In my experiences, no one has ever been offended by it! They happily pocket and appreciate it. This does not,
however, apply to front desk/reception clerks, and certainly not to managers. If you're concerned that by tipping
you may make it an expected thing over time, don't do it, but there's no harm in leaving a little something if the
service exceeds expectations.

Do not be afraid of sting rays! They are absolutely harmless to evrything except the small fish/etc they vacuum up.
Just don't grab their "tail". It doesn't sting, but it has little barbs in it that will hurt. Sting rays are not aggressive
towards humans.

Unlike Fiji, the sea snake capitol of the world, there are no sea snakes in FP. That's great news for late-night
skinny dipping.

I'm sure there's more, but I actually have a job to do at this computer, and I've been ignoring it for too long. Have a great time when you go!

FatUglyGuy <eperry@beachpatrolinc.com>
Huntington Beach, CA USA - Tuesday, January 06, 2004 at 14:50:17 (EST)
Moorea--7 nights Moorea Beachcomber, Beach Bungalow 311
Bora Bora--5 nights Sofitel Motu, OWB 128
November 15-30th, 2003

WOW! That's all I can say. WOW! What a beautiful place to visit. My hubby & I are afraid to ever travel anywhere else again because it will be so disappointing.

We arrived at Faaa from L.A. at 3 a.m. on Air New Zealand after a long flight. A tip to those flying Air New Zealand (we didn't discover this until the flight home). The top section of the headrests slide up and down (for tall or short people) and the sides of that part can be bent forward (around your ears) so that you have something to lean on to go to sleep. That's so much more comfortable than going without (and more comfortable than those blow-up pillows we took). The foot-rest helps, too. Kick off your shoes, put on warm socks if you brought them, wrap up in the blanket (the flight attendants call them travel rugs....make sure you do your seatbelt up on the outside & they won't have to wake you if the seatbelt sign comes on). The free wine helps, too!

We cleared customs quickly and went looking for an ATM. I tried both banks' ATMs, but neither would give me money (don't panic if you think it's accepted your card & PIN & request for money & then just gives you the card back....we thought we would be out the 50000 XPF we'd asked for, but we weren't). I popped into the Banque Polynesie and cashed some travellers' cheques (Canadian travellers' cheques were fine--thanks, hamara, for letting me know that as it saved me the exchange rate when I cashed in my extra ones back here). We met with the travel rep who said he'd be back with a van to take us to the ferry at 5:30 a.m. Next, we went to get some coffee and a danish at the coffee shop (a tip--I thought cafe court meant quick/instant coffee, but it's "short" coffee, or espresso...hubby had a bit of trouble getting that down--I should have brushed up my French before I left because it sure lacked when I was so tired). Anyway, the airport coffeeshop's a bit expensive (2 danishes, 2 coffees were 1080 XPF).

We had transportation arranged to the ferry dock at 5:30 and waited there for the 7:30 ferry (it was Sunday) and took the Aremiti 4 over to Moorea. What a neat way to approach the island. It just gets bigger & bigger & the anticipation is really something. We had a bit of rain (we sat on top of the catamaran for the view), but it was warm. The ocean swells didn't bother me (though they might have if we'd been inside). Vaire is a pretty port with lots of hustle & bustle when a boat arrives. We took arranged transportation to our resort (Beachcomber), dropping others off at Kaveka, Bali Hai & the Sheraton.

The Beachcomber was everything we could have dreamed of! Checking in was so personalized. They take you to the bar & get you coffee & leave you with the forms to fill out & describe the resort, restaurant hours, etc. Very nice. Our room wasn't ready (it was only 9:30 a.m.) so they gave us the key to a change/shower room (warning--there's no toilet in there, so if you have to go, find the washrooms before you go to the changeroom). Big tip--pack sunscreen in your carry-on luggage. We packed shorts, bathing suits, etc. and were prepared to sit in the shade by the pool, waiting for our room, but the shade turned out to be less than shade (we were under an umbrella that was under a tree) and we both got very bad burns in a couple of hours. It wasn't a great way to start a 2-week vacation.

I'd emailed a couple of weeks ahead, asking for Beach Bungalow 314 since so many here said it had such good shade. The Beachcomber emailed back to say it was already booked, but they'd make us happy. Did they ever! They gave me my second choice (tip---always give them backup choices!), #311, and we liked it even better than we would have #314. We had a beautiful view of the mountains to our right from our deck, the Dolphin Quest area, the over-water bungalows & the lagoon. There are tons of plants growing around the deck so it's very private (I don't think anyone walking by was aware we were sitting on the deck). #310 also looks excellent. We had the hammock right beside our bungalow & only once couldn't use it when we wanted. The bungalows are so nicely appointed. We used the bar fridge to store our groceries (we took out the bottled water & bottled juices & left them above the fridge, returning them when we left & we weren't charged for anything). We found the fridge stayed colder if we left the door of the wooden unit containing it open (to let the heat out). Every morning, we'd walk to the market (turn right once you're out of the Beachcomber's driveway) to buy a bagette (cheap!) and danishes that looked (and tasted) like they were apricot and raisin. Delicious (160 XPF each). We also bought cheese, cream for my coffee (I didn't trust the stuff the hotel supplied at first since it's not kept refrigerated, but I got so disappointed with the creme fraiche from the market, that I ended up using the resort cream eventually...that creme fraiche is weird stuff for coffee!). I'd packed a small jar of peanut butter (great suggestion) so we had the danishes for breakfast and cheese or peanut butter on bagettes for lunch. This really cut our costs down. Dinner was Miss Pizza several times (good pizza 1200-1500 XPF, cheeseburger frites--cheeseburger and fries--2 of these plus 2 pops were 2100 XPF). Diet Coke is called Coke Light there, by the way. We bought ham at the ABC grocery store at Le Petit Village for dinner once, too. And I celebrated my birthday in Moorea, starting the day with a room-service full breakfast (thanks for the tip that there's enough food there for 2---it's more like 4!) and finishing with dinner at Te Honu Iti (wonderful food, great service and it was so fun to watch the fish & rays come right up to the restaurant to be fed).

We did the 4x4 tour (Albert Tours) on Moorea. My husband has a bad back (2 herniated disks) and I have a bad neck (1 herniated disk). We were really leary about doing the 4x4 after everyone said not to if you have a bad back, but we found it was fine as long as you stand up for the rough parts (going up to the pineapple plantation & distillery and the waterfall). If it gets really bumpy, stand on the balls of your feet. Neither of us had any problems with our backs or necks (but watch your head on the framework over the 4x4 when it gets bumpy!). This tour was really amazing! My favourite parts were the view from the Belvedere and the hike up to the waterfall (you cross 2 streams on stepping stones). It had rained a day or two before our tour, so there was water on the waterfall (it would still be beautiful without, though). Wear running or hiking shoes on this trip or you'll have trouble on the hike to the waterfall (we saw many people slipping & falling with thongs or sandals on).

We took the kayak around the resort, but neither of us was comfortable in it (it's very hard on the back as there's no lower back support). We much preferred the outrigger canoe, which we took out to the motu you can see from the beach. It was a bit farther than it looks (we're in our mid-forties & relatively sedentary), but we discovered that the trip back is a snap as both the wind & the currents went that way. On the way back, we encountered a tour boat doing a ray tour & we stopped to snap pictures and watch the rays (and sharks circling a slight distance away). We have a lot of canoe experience, but my husband found the darned thing sometimes turned in a different direction than he expected (I think it's the effect of the outrigger in the current). By the way, if you do canoe, your top hand wraps onto the "end" of the paddle...we saw so many people with that top hand partway down the shaft of the paddle...it looks silly & is way less efficient that way.

Le Petit Village is worth the walk (about 1/2 hr.) and we went 3 times. I bought pareos and a t-shirt at one of the shops there...on the Beachcomber end of the strip. I don't remember the name of the place, but it had a wide covered porch on the front with racks of pareos and wasn't very deep inside. She had beautiful colours & the pareos were the most reasonably-priced that I saw. I got 2 short pareos for my 19-yr-old daughter for 600 XPF each and several full-sized ones for 1000 XPF each. A t-shirt for my 21-yr-old son was 1500 XPF.

Moorea was our favourite island. The mountains and valleys are so lush and green, the island and roads are so clean and I couldn't believe the lack of smell (other than one spot of Le Petit Village) on such a hot, humid island (sewage, garbage smells, that is.....you do smell flowers & other natural smells). I would definitely return!

Next we went to the airport & took the puddle-jumper to Bora Bora (via Huahine....another pretty-looking island). The shuttle to the Sofitel Motu gave us great views of the island and we took lots of pictures. There were 3 couples on the shuttle, but the other 2 got off at the Sofitel Marara & we were the only ones to continue to the Sofitel Motu. What a reception! A man blew a conch shell and then strummed a ukele. A young woman put shells around our necks and a young man (Narcisse) led us over to some chairs and gave us drinks in coconuts. Were were then led up to the reception area and welcomed again and given forms to fill out while sitting in the bar area. Narcisse was fun. His English was lacking and we could hear him practising his phrases with another woman who spoke better English. I had emailed a couple of weeks ahead asking for OWB 128 (with several backup #s) and was so thrilled when they took us to 128! It really has a gorgeous view of Mt. Otemanu without looking at any other bungalows. If you ask ahead, I'd suggest 128 or 129 first and then any of 114, 116, 117, 118 and 119 for the best views of the mountain/Bora Bora. Others might be good, too, but those look like the most unobstructed views.

The Market (a few minutes left of the Marara) was open on Sunday (we were really surprised!). I think it was open until at least 6 pm if not 6:30 pm. I thought it had a better selection of food than the ABC store in Le Petit Village in Moorea. Again, we ate breakfast & lunch in our room (carry a backpack to hide the food as the launch to the Sofitel Motu has a no-groceries sign). We ate dinner at the Mai Tai (I had a very good Asian dish), the Bounty (good crepes), the Sofitel Marara (tons of food, but we didn't like their fries), lunch at the Sofitel Motu (it was okay) and Bloody Mary's (an experience just going and I loved the teriyaki wahoo). I found the island (at least the strip from the Club Med to the Beachcomber) to be dirty & smelly.

As others have said, Moorea is all about the island and Bora Bora is all about the lagoon. And what a lagoon! Every colour of green and blue and turquoise imaginable. I wish our camera could have picked up all of those colours! We had abundant fish at the coral beside our bungalow, but we were astounded by the variety at the Coral Gardens on the other side of the motu. You can get there by either taking a kayak around (they told us there was nowhere to tie it up, but we just lifted it onto a low point of the shore--it's all lava rock so be careful you don't scrape the hull) or by walking over the top of the motu. If you do the latter, go up to the lookout point and you'll see some chairs to your left. Go down to them & follow the path that continues on to the right from them. It will take you right out to Pointe Noire. We saw all kinds of fish near the point and back down towards the resort on that side, including an octopus!

A final tip....be careful when you walk on the lava rock. On our last day there, we decided to hike out to Pointe Noire, following the signs pointing towards the second beach. We got to Pointe Noire & took photos & we were walking back when I stepped down off of some high lava rock onto a wobbly rock & I pitched headfirst into more lava rock. Ouch. I cut open my face (forehead, nose, lip & chin), elbow, knee & shin. My husband helped me back to our bungalow where I cleaned myself up & realized I would need a doctor (somehow I didn't think a butterfly bandage and Polysporin on my nose was going to do the trick). The resort was wonderful, calling the dr. and ordering a taxi. A first-aid trained worker from the resort accompanied us all the way to the doctor's office in Viatape and they sent someone back later for my prescriptions (the pharmacy was closed for lunch when I got my scrips). I had 2 stitches put in my nose (without aneasthetic) and was put on some heavy-duty antibiotics. The resort paid for everything! I'll end up with a scar, but as someone said to me this morning, "It was worth it for such a great trip!"

The trip home was long. We took the last flight from Bora Bora to Faaa. Originally, we'd planned to go to Papeete and hang out at the waterfront, but with my injuries (and how I looked!), I didn't feel like it, so we ate in the restaurant upstairs at the airport (okay food) and then just rested until our flight (7 1/2 hours later). Once in L.A., we cleared customs (and had an interesting chat about my face) and had 10 hours to kill before our final flight. Thanks to all who gave me ideas for how to kill that time. We picked up a map & transit directions from the Travellers' Aid desk & took public transit ($3 round-trip for the 2 of us vs. approximately $60 round-trip for a taxi according to someone who posted here with advice) to the 3rd Street Promenade in Santa Monica and walked around the promenade and out onto the pier. We had dinner on the pier (it was disappointing...I should have asked about restaurants down there) and had a churro (yum!) and headed back to the airport for our overnight flight back to Toronto (we travelled from Friday afternoon until Sunday morning....long enough if you're in one piece, but even longer if you're injured!). Oh, and the luggage became a non-issue in L.A. as we were able to pick them up before customs and drop them off just after for our Air Canada flight back to Toronto (though we had our heavy backpacks with us full of liquor the whole time in L.A.!).

Sigh....well, I've got it, too! The French Polynesia flu. When can we go back?

Old Wife
Canada - Wednesday, December 03, 2003 at 14:47:10 (EST)
Since I got so much good information from this site, I thought I would contribute by adding my own trip report.

My wife and I just returned from Moorea/Bora from our honeymoon in November. I will try to give some helpful information for those thinking of going to Tahiti. Pardon my spelling please, I'm writing fast.

1) Traveling to Tahiti
If you have to go through LAX make sure you get there early. Most of the time I ignore the warning to get to the airport 3 hours early for international flights, but we needed the whole 3 hours! LAX is a PIT! I won't go into detail, but suffice it to say they are very unorganized.
When we finally got on our Air Tahiti Nui flight, things were much more pleasant. The food was good and the 7 1/2 hour flight seemed like it went by pretty fast because you have your own personal set top box to watch movies and play video games.
We didn't spend any time on Tahiti itself. Most people recommend you don't spend much time their unless you are really into pearl shopping. We took the 10 seater plane to Moorea and let me tell you, that was quite an 8 minute ride! If that type of thing scares you, you can take the speed ferry, i think its a 40 minute ride or so, its all good.

2) Pearl Beach Resort
We stayed at a deluxe garden bungalow and it was pleasant. We were told to make sure to get the DELUXE garden bungalow as opposed to the older garden bungalows and that was good advice. Nothing fancy, but we found it to be pleasant, clean and comfortable. Each one comes with its own little semi-private pool. Some words of caution. I had my $35 timex digital stolen inside my room. Each room comes with a safe, I suggest you use it. A few other people on this site complained of the same thing. I didn't let this spoil my overall impression of the place which was positive. The snorkeling on the beach was nice and I would definately recommend taking the complementary kiaks out for a try. It was very fun and the water is so beautiful. My wife and I kiayaked all the way to cooks bay. One thing that was a bit annoying was the roosters. They started at 3:30am!!! Our bungalow was 207 which seemed to be near some kind of chicken farm! (not uncommon on moorea) - It might be wise to try to request a room away from the roosters. Rooms had A/C and overhead fan. Overall, more positives than negatives.

3) 4X4 Jeep Safari Tour
The 4 hour tour was nice. We started off by driving up the mountain and getting a look at cooks bay. Breathtaking! The rest of the tour was just ok in my opinion. Pinapple fields, agriculture, ect... It was worth seeing and learning how the everyday polynesians live, but its not really my cup of tea. Overall, I would recommend the tour. On our way back it started pouring down rain. I would strongly recommend a plastic pancho of some kind as it can rain over there at any time. Bring bug spray and sun block.

4) Food on Moorea
We wanted to save our money for the end of the trip to bora so we didn't visit many restraunts. Our package provided us with our breakfasts and I would highly recommend purchasing this type of package. At the pearl resort, the breakfast was an all you can eat American style buffet. Not bad if you are into bacon, omlets, pancakes, juices, bread, ect... Food on the islands is very expensive so be sure and go to the nearby grocery store and stock up on items, especially water. $4 for a bottle at the hotel! Every place we went to accepts dollars but generally they use whatever exchange rate they want. I recommend using your visa where excepted and using Franks everywhere else.

5) Sofitel Motu on Bora Bora
AWESOME! We had three nights on an overwater bungalow at the sofitel motu (not to be confused with the sofitel marrara) It was fabulous, the bungalows were outstanding. I can't say enough about the staff and the bungalows. There is nothing quite like waking up and going out on my porch to the beautiful bora bora skyline. We had bungalow 116. The snorkling just to the right of us was very cool. I saw all kinds of tropical fish, an octopus, and other critters.
Didn't care much for the restraunt at the motu. It was too french for my taste. My wife and I are not into pigeon liver and soup that comes in portions of about 3 tablespoons served by a gay polenesian guy. If you like that kind of stuff, you will enjoy the restraunt. We headed for the famous Bloody Mary's. It was much more to my liking. Expect to pay $100 per couple, but you will get a good meal. If you get a beef cabob entrey however make sure they cook it enough. Mine was a bit raw. The mahi-mahi was the best I've ever had anywhere! Although the Motu restraunt was not to my taste, one of the best nights we had was our honeymoon dinner there. They set up a table on the beach and had a guy singing and playing a ukalely to us under the stars.

Oh, and you can also drink the water from the tap at the motu. I'll let you know if i get sick :) Also, no roosters at the motu! Overall, the Sofitel Motu was fabulous!

6) Shark feeding tour
What can I say, I LOVED IT! Real scuba folks probably think its cheesy but for a guy from Utah this was really fun. Even my wife loved it. I wish we actually had more time to watch the sharks. The tour is 3 hours, only 20 minutes or so to watch the shark feeding 20+ minutes for the sting rays, 20 minute swimming break, and the rest of the tour we just circled the island and got a good view of everything. You got to do it, just for the experience, make sure to bring your underwater camera. I got some great shots of some black tips, generally 3-6 feet

7) Bora vs Moorea
Alot of folks ask which island is better. Some swear by Moorea others Bora. Alot depends on your experience and where you stay. We liked Bora Bora better but alot has to do with the overwater bungalow at the Sofitel Motu, that was incredible! If you are a flatlander you may like Moorea better, higher mountains ect. I'm from Utah so I'm used to mountains, but I'm used to the spectacular open water feel of Bora.

8) General Tips
Bring plenty of water proof sun block - I have olive skin and don't burn easy. I GOT FRIED!
Go to the grocery store on the islands and stock up on water and other food items. Get a breakfast package so you only have to worry about buy dinner. (or the other way around)
Go on a shark feeding tour - If you like it, do it on both islands!
Go kiayaking - its free at most hotels
Get some bread to feed the fishes! They will take it from your hand.
Get reef shoes - nothing fancy $10 or less
There is very little night life on the islands, its more of a quiet peaceful, water lovers place!
Make sure room has A/C and/or overhead fan.
Don't be surprized to see bugs in the bungalow (even at the immaculet Sofitel Motu, I saw a single roach) Its a tropical island, thats just the way it is.
Learn a few words in tahitian and smile alot. - Mauruuru (Thankyou) Iaorana (Hello) - Most people at the hotels speak english and we had very little trouble communicating. A smile goes a long way over there and the people there are very friendly when given the respect they deserve.
Don't be alarmed if the french woman go topless. I know this was a hot toping on this board We saw maby 3 or 4 who decided to go topless (and none were good looking). I'm not a big fan of the french right now (incidently the natives don't seem to be big french fans either) but everyone got along great on the islands.
Use your visa where you can and use Franks everywhere else ( you can use dollars, but some places will make their own exchange rate which is usually not very good.
Tipping is not native to FP, but its becoming more popular. I felt weird not tipping, and left money where appropriate. No one refused it :)

9) Budget
We are not rich people, but this is my honeymoon. I ended up taking a very basic approach on Moorea for 4 nights and living in luxury for my final 3 nights at Bora. That seemed to work for us. We ended up spending $6,500+ Most of that was because of the deluxe OWB at the Sofitel Motu. If you get an over water bungalow make sure its a real one. Look for advice on this site for the good ones. For my honeymoon, I went all out, but if I were returning just to visit, I would have no problem staying at a lower priced hotel and just having a blast! You can easily do the trip for $3000 if you don't have to have the OWB. If you have the money, stay at the Sofitel Motu on Bora!






Mark Dueri <mdueri@hotmail.com>
Salt Lake City , UT USA - Tuesday, November 25, 2003 at 13:04:03 (EST)
Trip Report Oct. 12-25th
2 Nights Tahiti Beachcomber
3 Nights Kia Ora Village
7 Nights Kia Ora Sauvage

Everything I read on this board was extremely accurate. My wife and I had an absolutely incredible time on our honeymoon and loved every minute of it. This board was greatly helpful in making the best decisions for where we wanted to stay and what to do while in Tahiti.

Tahiti Beachcomber - Loved it. Really enjoyed the Lotus restaurant over the water, great food.
Please note: there is a thread on this board that addresses the issue of joining the Six Continents Club to receive up-grades to over the water bungalows at the Intercontinental hotels. I joined the club and was only up-graded to a lagoon view room from my garden room.

Went to eat one night at Coco's restaurant. It was great, I would highly recommend it.

Kia Ora Village - Way cool. Loved our 3 nights in OWB's here. The snorkeling right off our deck was incredible. Having room service delivered in the morning and eating breakfast on your deck is also incredible. We also enjoyed sandwiches and milkshakes for lunch from the bar and dinner at the Village restaurant was great. Went to Le Kai Kai's 2 nights for dinner - it was really fun and had a good local culture feel to it. Gail is the chef, she comes to pick you up in the van and drops you off afterwards, food was great - especially the shrimp in coconut and curry sauce.

Kia Ora Sauvage - Was SOOOO Cool! It's what we were really going to Tahiti for and it proved to be worth every dime! Bernard is the host during the even months. He is wonderful. I know much is written on these boards about Michael (the host in the odd months), however I can't imagine having a better time then we did, and when we left we felt like we were close friends to Bernard and his wife. He really makes the trip special and he is so easy to talk to and fun to be around. So DON'T WORRY if you are going in the even months - Bernard and his wife do an excellent job. When we go back it will only be during a month that Bernard is working.

The snorkeling at Sauvage is great; the remote alone feeling is great. The food is great. The whole place is just great. The silence is almost eerie at times; it can be so quite as you hear nothing but wind and waves (and coconuts falling). Also looking at the stars from your beach chairs after dinner is too incredible for words. Each night we fell asleep under the stars in our chairs - eventually we would wake up and stumble back to our bungalow for bed.

Other comments:
1. Everything is really, really expensive. Be sure to budget and expect it or it could ruin your vacation. It wasn't a big deal for us because we prepared - however we never spend money like that in the States.

2. We didn't use the water floats that we took at all. We read they would be a good idea - didn't even blow them up to put in the water. Because you are on the equator and the water is saltier you float really easily.

3. Take your own mask and snorkle. It's a minimum investment - ours were so much better than what you could borrow from the hotel. We didn't need fins.

4. We always ordered room service breakfast for 1, it was plenty of food and cheaper than both of us going to the hotel restaurants to eat.

5. The beaches at the Sauvage are not sandy. They are crushed coral. Be prepared and wear your reef shoes.

The place is really paradise. We are constantly looking at our pictures and already trying to plan how to get back.
Many Blessings and hopes that your trip is as spectacular as ours.

Josh and Ellen Howell
Houston, Tx

Josh Howell
Houston , TX USA - Thursday, November 20, 2003 at 15:58:55 (EST)
TRIP REPORT 6-11 NOV 2003

GENERAL:

Australian ATM cards do not work in Tahitian ATMs, I tried all 3 banks. Credit card rate for AUD is better than bank rate. CFP are not available generally at Brisbane airport, you can order them but at a very bad rate. CFP are available at Auckland airport for 63.8 per NZD. In Papeete, we got 71.88 per AUD. But changing in Auckland from AUD to NZD then to CFP we would have only gotten around 63 CFP per AUD.

You cant make phone calls with cash-all pay phones use cards. This is very annoying since you have to buy a 1000 CFP card even if you only want to make one call. We managed to talk shop owners into letting us use their phone for the one call we made.

Public transport in Papeete was excellent and cheap. We never had to wait more than 10 or 15 min to and from the Sofitel (Route 3-FAAA), except at night when we waited about 30 min inwards and 15 min to go back at about 0100 am.

Public transport in Moorea is useless. We missed the fast boat and had to take the slow car ferry. The bus on Moorea doesnt meet this boat and we ended up having to hitchhike from the wharf to Tiki Village (otherwise we would miss the show). It wasnt too difficult though being a mixed couple he is Polynesian and I am white might have helped. The only public transport is in conjunction with the ferries. This surprised me as I thought there had to be some way for the locals to get to work-apparently they dont tend to work far from home unless they have a car.

ACCOMMODATION:

Papeete-arrival at 2230, nothing booked. We were planning to wing it. There are NO budget accommodations that meet flights on spec like they do in Fiji and Rarotonga. They will only come if pre-booked. Having once been on a delayed flight that arrived 4 hours late, I didnt want to commit to anything that first night. Our Air New Zealand flight was on time, but there was an Air Tahiti flight from Paris and LAX that was cancelled-those people who had prepaid rooms would have wasted their money that night so my logic was sound. It was pouring rain, otherwise we might have walked over to Chez Fifi, but ended up sleeping in the lounge along with about 10-12 backpackers. Very safe, we used our carry-ons as pillows but others had a trolley full of baggage that was still there when they woke up in the morning.

Papeete-Sofitel Maeva Beach. At about 6am we walked up to the bus stop and caught a modern bus to the Sofitel. The receptionist was somewhat bemused to see us simply walk in off the street at that hour, but he was nice enough to let us in our room straight away without making us wait until normal check-in at noon. The room was OK, bathroom and shower worked fine (because someone else wrote and said that theirs didnt work), aircon is a bit weak but we were on the top floor facing Punauia and caught a breeze. The one major fault is that the phones are wonky and we didnt get our wake-up call at 7am the next morning. We woke at 8, and had to rush breakfast to catch the 9:15 fast boat to Moorea, didnt make it and got stuck on the car boat. We also had trouble dialing to reception, just kept getting hold music and some message in French which we didnt understand but assumed it was telling us the lines were busy and to try again later. Wake-up calls are programmed in, I watched the clerk put ours in, so it was some stuff up with the equipment not the staff who were all quite friendly and helpful. Pool was nice and quiet, beautiful sea view to Moorea from the beach. Other than the phone problem, we were happy with this hotel.

Moorea-Moorea Village. Pleasant small hotel with heaps of bungalows (fares) scattered on the grounds. I was dismayed that in spite of booking 3 months ahead that we were put in the last row of garden fares next to the main road and we did hear a lot of traffic. I asked to be moved to a better garden fare nearer to the beach and was told they were all full, also couldnt upgrade to a beach fare since they were full too. There was an American group and an Italian group, but the bulk of the clientele was Papeete residents over for the long weekend (Armistice Day). The 2nd day, I noticed the tariff promotional sign on the reception desk and was chatting to some of them about it and found out that not only did they have better bungalows, they were paying about 3000 CFP LESS than the official room rate (10500)! I was very upset at this, but kept it to myself so I wouldnt spoil the Sunday Tamaaraa for my husband. It did build up the resentment inside me and ruined the rest of the stay for me-I kept thinking they dont care about business from independent travellers and think we will put up with inferior rooms at higher rates. I might have accepted it if we had been given the best garden fare while the people on lower rates were put in the worse rooms.

When we checked out on Monday, I gave them the benefit of the doubt to see if they would charge us the same as the others (there was a sign in French about the Tarif promotional on their desk) so it was public knowledge, they probably didnt think independent English speakers could read it and people on packages dont really know how much of their package goes to the room rates. They ran the bill for me at the higher rate and I challenged it pointing out their sign. They said I made my booking before the promotion (but the sign said it was valid for stays between 1 Sept-30 Nov), so I said, then why werent we given the best garden fare instead of the worst one in the rear since we booked before everyone else? They finally agreed to give us the promotional rate and I paid the bill.

Swimming pool is nicely located near the beach but was full of kids and noisy, probably because of the promotion. Fares were OK, but could benefit from cross-ventilation. Our ceiling fan made a clackety-clack noise (Fare 68), dont know if they all do that since we didnt see anyone elses fare.

PapeetePension Puea (just off Ave Prince Hinoi discovered on www.haere-mai.pf website. The all time best bargain in FP6500 for a fan-cooled room just 5 in walk from town, pleasant owners. I wish we had stayed here on the night we went dancing as it would have been so much more convenient. Well ventilated with both fans and cross ventilation, you can pay 2000 CFP extra for aircon but it isnt needed. The owners even got up at 5am to wake us up and give us breakfast so we could catch our early flight homethis place is highly recommended. Not in the guidebooks yet so get here before it is and then it packs out!


FOOD:

Papeete-Sofitel Maeva Beach. Friday night buffet with dance showboth food and show were excellent-we stuffed ourselves silly, deserts to die for! Around 4500 CFP per person, we were given a good table up front at my request. Breakfast buffet was also excellent-nice omelets to order, bacon, sausages, cereals, fruit, bread, cheeses, etc. Included in internet special rate room/bkft 17650 CFP.

Papeete-in town. Lunchescasse-croute sandwiches available everywhere-most range from 200-500 CFP, filling and OK to get by until the next buffet. Dinner at Roulotte was excellent and cheap-dinner for 2 at Maeva Nui roulotte was 1900 CFP, then we splurged on crepes at Tiki Creperie for 1000 CFP for 2. We dont drink alcohol so we really get by cheap with water. Soft drinks are very expensive-a 1.5 liter bottle of Coke is 390 CFP so we kept these to a minimum and mostly drank ice tap water in hotels and restaurants. We never got sick.

Moorea-Saturday BBQ at Moorea Village was excellent-simple but plenty of BBQ meats and fish, salads and yummy desserts. 3600 CFP pp. Sunday Tamaaraa feast was also excellent with traditional Tahitian dishes cooked underground-pork, fish, taro, breadfruit, spinach-all served with coconut sauce at long tables with platters for everyone to help themselves-the pork went very fast! 3900 CFP pp.
Royal Chicken (Chickenman), about 200 metres down the road past Moorea Camping-wonderful roasted chicken with Rosemary potatoes 1600 CFP feeds 2 hungry people.

ENTERTAINMENT:

Papeete-Sofitel Maeva Beach. Friday night show featuring Heikura Nui Dance Troupe-award winning troupe from the annual Heiva festival-nice variety of dances.

Royal Kikiriri Night Club-downtown Papeete. Excellent music, most people will be doing Tahitian waltz except for fast Tamure dances-very local atmosphere. 1000 cover charge includes one drink, get there early to get a table, otherwise you stand up (or keep dancing). Aircon, but not well ventiliated, the smoking got to us after awhile.

Moorea Village-Saturday night show: Coconut show, How to wear the pareo for men and women, how to dance Tahitian style and some nice Tahitian hula dancing by local girls and fire dancing by both a man and a woman (separately). The band stays on to play through dinner, then the place turns into an open-air night club with dancing by locals and tourists until midnight-fun and very friendly atmosphere. Sunday afternoon-Tamarii Papatoai (sp?) dance troupe from a nearby village-excellent show but needs more male dancers as only 2 were there to invite tourists up to dance, there were 9 girls in the troupe so lots of men including my husband were invited up.

Tiki Village-mini show put on by some of the resident dancer/guides who live in the village-good dancing, even a small fire dance but done during the daytime. I would have like to see the evening show but very expensive at 6000 (I think) CFP. The guides are very friendly and happy to answer any questions about the culture. There are nice displays/demos of pareo making, dance costumes, marae temples. The pearl farm was closed when we were there.


ACTIVITES:

Snorkelingwe had intended to do this on Sunday afternoon after the Moorea Village show but unbeknownst to us the activities desk was closed on Sundays-I wish we had known or there was a sign posted so we could have picked up the gear on Saturday. Also intended to do the shark feeding tour on Monday but was informed that they dont work on Monday.

ShoppingPapeete Marche is incredible! We bought hula skirts for 2500 CFP, a ukulele for 15,000 CFP and misc souvenirs like Monoi massage oil. The surrounding fabric shops are a great place to pick up fabrics to make pareos and island style clothes-prices range from 150 CFP metre up to 795-ish for fancier designs. Arii Creation has beautiful island shirts and we bought some matching pareo fabric to make matching muumuus for me. No problem with quarantine to bring hula skirts and shells into Australia.

OPINIONS:

Limited money was a constant frustration. I wish we had a higher credit limit so we could have done things like hiring a car on Moorea, scuba diving and of course more shopping. I think the next time we come (hopefully in a richer state), we will try some different islands-perhaps Bora Bora and Rangiroa. The one thing I didnt like about Moorea was far too many noisy kids, probably due to its ease of weekend getaway from Papeete. Maybe the outer islands would be quieter. The island is gorgeous and worth a visit for a budget traveler. I have done most of my traveling as a budget backpacker and moved up to what I considered middle class on this trip. In a way it was frustrating because in middle class you get a taste of what the deluxe class has to offer but it is tantalizingly out of reach. Like making economy passengers walk through first and business class to get to their cramped little seats.

On my first trip to Tahiti I stayed in Papeete hostels, Moorea camping, Bora Bora Chez Pauline and Huahine Chez Guynette-dorm beds and was surrounded by others who were equally broke but having a good time. On this trip there were people effortlessly taking taxis, running bar tabs, taking pricey excursions so I felt bit like on the outside looking in. It was kind of a shock to see the spending power of Americans and Europeans. I kept thinking that that persons bar tab would buy a ukulele for example. On the other hand, my husbands musical ability (ukulele and drumming) opened doors that most tourists cant get in and we did have fun singing and dancing with the locals. Our primary focus of this trip was to see as much Tahitian dance as possible and shop for fabrics, shirts, pareos and hula skirts so we did accomplish our mission but exhausted ourselves trying to squeeze a weeks worth of activites into 4 days. We were on frequent flyer award tickets so had to take what we could get with schedules working within our budget of how long we could afford to stay. I would have preferred to arrive on a Monday or Tuesday and rest up a bit before dancing the weekend away. Still, we had a good time and will be back when we are more cashed up.

Tiki
Brisbane, QLD Australia - Thursday, November 13, 2003 at 18:00:32 (EST)

First I would like to thank everyone who contributes to this forum. I met allot of people who I heard say I wish I had brought, known, ect. regarding stuff I had learned from reading everyones posts. I stayed at the Bora Bora Le Meridien, 2 nights in the beach bungalow, 4 in the overwater bungalow. Truthfully I cant say which one I liked best because they both were great. Things I found out real quick: The humidity made my hair a mess. Bring a good conditioner and if you dont the gift shop has one in a white and yellow bottle. I liked it so much I bought 2 bottles to take home. Monio Oil works for bug bites. I got one bite walking in the sand and remembered reading on this forum about using the oil so I put it on in the morning and at night. I sat outside every night and never got bit. I did all of my excursion out of the hotel. Helene at their activities desk is the best. First day I got there early afternoon and spent the day snorkeling in the lagoon. Second day went parasailing. Im afraid of heights but ive always wanted to try this. I loved it. For some reason there wasnt that feeling I usually get when im up too high. Day three shark and ray feeding. This was kind of touristy but im so glad I did it. Being that close to the sharks I got some great pictures. Day four I went jet skiing around BB. After doing this im glad they dont let people go on their own. It would spoil it all to have people racing around. Later in the day I took a taxi to the other side of the island so I could catch the shuttle to the BB Nui because I had an appointment at the Mandarin Spa. The 4:00 shuttle never came and the shuttle that came at 4:10 said he wasnt going back until 5:00. The people at the spa were great at trying to fit me in but they only had time for a massage. I made the appointment before I left home, had I known the Meridien had a spa I wouldnt have went to all the trouble of going to the BB Nui. Day 5 went on the Aqua Safari. I liked this so much that when I got back to the hotel I signed up to go scuba diving for my first time. Day 6 scuba diving. I got claustrophobic on this and had the instructor take me back up 3 different times. I did get to see 2 manta rays though and that was awesome. I have talked to people here at home about me being a sissy and they said that allot of people feel the same way on their first dive. If anyone is thinking of going scuba diving for the first time go to the classes first where they do the training in the pool. I was told that, that probably would have gotten me use to breathing under water. Bring a small pair of binoculars. I think it would have been cool to see across to the island. For anyone who plans to stay at the Meridien I would try to do both the beach and the overwater bungalows. I loved staying there and will more than likely stay there my next visit. Bring little gifts for children of the people who help make your stay more comfortable. I brought rafts, bubbles, frisbees, stickers and candy bars. After seeing the reaction these things that dont mean much to us got I wish I would have brought allot more. I left the gifts on my last day there except for the stuff I left for the women who cleaned my room at the beach bungalow so I know the service I received had nothing to do with what they might get. Ive read about the slow service in restaurants and since I only ate at the Meridien I can only comment on them. I dont know if the fact that I was traveling alone had anything to do with it but I never had to wait for anything. I was served allot sooner than I get served here in Ca at allot of restaurants. When I got room service it was brought 15 to 20 minutes after I called which I thought was great time for room service.
Im not even going to try to describe BB because seriously until youve been there, there is no way for someone to describe the sounds (or lack of them), the smells, the scenery (especially all the different colors of the water) and most of all the people.

Tahiti: Maybe if I had stayed in Tahiti before Bora Bora I would have liked it. I was only there for a day and a half but that was long enough for me. Again I stayed at the Meridien. The staff was great but I just didnt have that relaxed feeling that I had on Bora Bora,


Karen <kjohnson@moneymailer.com>
CA USA - Thursday, November 13, 2003 at 12:15:36 (EST)
Our Honeymoon Adventure Moorea and Bora Bora October 20 28, 2003

My wife and I decided to take our honeymoon in French Polynesia since she has been to the islands of Greece and I have been to Hawaii, and we both thought it would be nice to travel on our honeymoon to where neither of us had been. Since it had been my childhood dream to visit Tahiti, especially Bora Bora, the decision to make French Polynesia our honeymoon destination was finalized. After making the travel reservation almost nine months in advance and changing our hotels from all Pearl Resorts on Moorea, Huahine, and Bora Bora to the Sheraton Moorea and the Sofitel Motu (dropping Huahine for lack of time) for a variety of reasons, I felt confident that honeymoon vacation would be very romantic and luxurious. Here is our very long and detailed adventure:

Mon, Oct 20 We flew to Tahiti on Air Tahiti Nui with a 1:00 pm departure out of LAX. We checked in at 10:00 am and walked around the duty free shop to pass some time before entering the secured boarding area. I noticed mostly couples in the boarding lounge and everyone seemed to have bright, shiny wedding bands on. However, no one seemed as excited than us. The flight was fully booked and departed on time.

Walking on board the plane was a pleasant beginning to a honeymoon: tiare flowers handed to us out of basket, the ocean blue and green color scheme, island music, and the Tahitian attire of the flight attendants. It seemed as if the vacation started at 1:00 pm and it put both my wife and I in the right mood to enjoy the eight hour flight. Sat near the front of the economy section of the plane along an aisle and window. In-flight service overall was excellent and what would be expected of an international flight according to my wife. A lunch of delicious beef bourgiugnon on rice, typical vegetables, salad, unlimited supply of rolls with butter, and cheesecake with orange slice was delicious and filling. To accompany lunch, French champagne, red wines, and Rotui brand fruit juices (we were trying to figure out what pamplemousse juice was and then determined that it was grapefruit) that never seemed to end, not to mention the personal television screens with six movies, games, inflight statistical information, and audio that made the eight hour flight wiz by quickly. No one seemed to drinking Hinanos, not even us. We could see the Marquesas Islands just about an hour before touching down in Papeeete.

Arrived at Faaa Airport at sunset in a fair amount of clouds and with a landing from the east with a great view of Papeete for those seated on the right side of the plane. I took a nice picture of my wife with the arrival musicians once inside the terminal, and we cleared customs fairly quickly (good that we sat near the front of the plane to deplane first and walked very fast to get in the customs line ahead of some slower walking passengers). After checking in with our travel operators desk and getting the standard flower lei, we took a little van shuttle to the Air Moorea terminal to the east of the main terminal. We could have just walked it in about five minutes but the voucher that we had gave us the free ride that took thirty minutes including the wait for other shuttle passengers to clear customs. The flight was on a tiny propeller plane seating maybe 16 passengers at most, and a little scary at night, but it lasted only six minutes. After collecting our luggage, we boarded a shuttle van to the Sheraton Moorea, that also stopped at the Sofitel Ia Ora and Pearl Resort first.

Arriving at the Sheraton, we received a tiare lei greeting, and upon checking in at the front desk, they put us in horizon OWB 99. Although it wasnt bungalows 09, 107, or 105 as we had requested, we loved the room (thats what most people seem to say when they get a different room but it was really true for us). What we liked about bungalow 99 was that there was no bungalow immediately adjacent to the left (when looking out from the deck) since thats where the small maintenance and ice hut was located and there was no bungalow opposite our room on the dock and we couldnt figure out why but we had no complaints. Thus, stepping out of our front door, we had an unobstructed view of the beach and mountains as well as our room looking out over the outside reef from the deck with no one immediately next to us, which allowed for a little more privacy if anything. The view of the other bungalows across the lagoon and to our left didnt bother us at all and made for great sunrise pictures with no view of civilization other than the other bungalows. We felt very secluded from the world. We didnt find the electric golf carts to be unduly noisy as they went by the bungalow but the farther out on the arms you are, the less foot and cart traffic. Either way, we spent so much time on the deck that we never heard very much going on up or down the docks.

A cold bottle of French champagne and a fruit plate, including star apple fruit, which we had never had before, was delivered immediately after arrival. We were so excited to finally have arrived in Moorea on our honeymoon, but we had also worked up an appetite. Thus, we looked through the room service menu and decided upon an order of mahi mahi with vanilla sauce and a couple of glasses of fruit juice. Despite my fear that we would wait forever for its preparation, it arrived within a half hour. We lit some small tea candles that I brought along the trip and ate a candlelight dinner complete with chilled champagne on the deck before retiring to a warm monoi oil bath in the clawfoot tub complete with more candles. It was quite romantic, even for a guy like me, and quite soothing to close out the full day of travel.

Tue, Oct 21 Awoke around 3:30 am due to a three hour time difference from California, and stayed up to watch the moonrise and sunrise after a slightly rainy night. A 7:00 am canoe breakfast that we ordered the night before arrived right on time. The 3900 cfp cost was well worth it (ordered only for one person only since we had read that it would be sufficient). The weather by then was sunny and perfect with no wind. The breakfast consisted of a glass of pineapple juice, a mouthwatering poisson cru served in a coconut shell, assorted croissants and breads, jams and jellies, butter, mixed fruit salad, and French-style pressed coffee. Clearly there was enough food for two people. What a treat to see a beautiful Tahitian couple arrive by canoe and deliver a perfect first breakfast in paradise. The Tahitian man paddling the canoe allowed my wife sit on the canoe as he paddled out a little so I could get a few pictures, all the while joking that he was going to steal my wife. If you can do this canoe breakfast at any of the resorts you stay at, I recommend you do it at least once for the photo opportunity if not for the tasty food.

We spent the morning snorkeling and relaxing on the deck totally amazed that we made it here after surviving the stresses of putting on a large wedding three days before. The Sheraton pool was so pretty and nice but we never made it inside the pool since we were so content with the pool off our deck. We called a black pearl shop that was pitched to us at Faaa Airport to pick us up to see their selection on Moorea. We looked around the small boutique but didnt like the limited selection they had. Our driver, however, was kind enough to stop at a local market where we picked up four cartons of Rotui fruit juices in all the flavors (banana juice was excellent), baguettes, jams, crackers, pate, cheese, and Hinanos. We had brought a collapsible thermal bag and instead of emptying out the refrigerator to make way for our abundant supply of beverages, we kept them cold in the thermal bag with ice from the hotel ice machine. We did put the cheese and a few other snacks in the honor bar refrigerator to avoid soggy crackers. As for dinner, I made reservations at Le Mahagony and a taxi shuttle picked us up right on time, where we met a couple from Tennessee and another couple from Kentucky. We arrived at the restaurant, which was next door to a gym; we joked around that we would work off the calories after dinner.

Le Mahagony was the site of one of the best dinners on our entire trip. We ordered appetizers consisting of hot stuffed mussels and Chinese-style poisson cru made with two kinds of ginger and a light vinegar dressing. I thought we also Main course was mahi mahi in vanilla sauce and tuna chunks in coconut curry sauce. Dessert was half a small pineapple soaked in rum with vanilla ice cream. Our waiters name was Heiva, and he was so fast and efficient waiting on all the tables in the restaurant. After this delicious dinner, we returned to the Sheraton and enjoyed the cool breezes and stars on the deck, and took another long soothing bath.

Wed, Oct 22 Awoke to another beautiful sunrise with clear skies and low humidity. We walked down the road at sunrise to Magasin Vaiterua to buy our supply of croissants and juice for breakfast. Later, we took the shark and sting ray excursion with Hiros. We highly recommend this tour operator. Hiro works with the Sofitel and the Pearl but we were able to get on this tour by calling ourselves directly the day before. The driver of the shuttle that was to take us to the Club Bali Hai to meet the start of the tour, Virginee, at first didnt want to pick us up for whatever reason, but the Sheraton activities director, so kind and gracious, told her that this was the only day we could go on this tour with Hiro, so Virginee came by and picked us up. The tour started at the Club Bali Hai and had about 30 people on it from France, Italy, Japan and the USA. We toured the usual Cooks Bay, Opunohu Bay where we saw the spinner dolphins by luck I guess, fed the sharks just about a quarter mile off the Sheraton, then fed the sting rays near the two motus. Both the shark feeding and the sting ray feeding were one of the highlights of the trip. I suggest you take your fins with you into the water if you can manage it and dont forget your towels from the hotel!

We boated by the Inter-Continental and waved hello to the guests on their over water balconies. Not sure if we went that close because of necessity or just to have the guests be a spectacle for those on our boat. We were convinced that the Sheraton overwater bungalows were better situated as overwater bungalows and ours seemed to have more privacy since we never saw any boat get this close to our overwater unit. The water was by far clearer and more inviting at the Sheraton than anything we could see near the Intercontinental. We spent about two hours on the motu snorkeling, watching more sting rays come very close to the shore, and partaking of a tasty picnic lunch of bbq chicken and fish, curry rice, spaghetti salad with mixed vegetables and sliced hot dogs, rum punch, Hinanos, and Rotui fruit juice. The sliced pineapple was to die for, and much softer and mellower than Hawaiian pineapple even the core is soft enough to eat. We met some children on the tour who were apparently the children of the boat crew, and they were so fun to watch. One boy, whose name was Hivi, was a real ham and showed off an angel fish he had caught on the Motu. We also saw a large manta ray from the boat near the motu before we were dropped off at the Sheraton. Since we were the only ones getting off there, we felt like we were the envied couple who got to stay here since we believed that the Sheraton was a notch above the Pearl or the Sofitel, but thats just my humble opinion.

We rented a car upon returning to the Sheraton from Eurpocar (The Air Tahiti Nui Magazine advertisement for Europecar should get you a 10% discount), and drove to Te Honu Iti Restaurant to make dinner reservations for the following night and to look at black pearls at the boutique, where we finally decided upon one that caught my wifes eye. After buying the black pearl, we then drove to the Linareva Floating Restaurant where, after the waitress pulled two large chalkboards to each table as patrons decided on their orders, we chose and then dined on thinly sliced sashimi on cabbage with a wonderfully flavored soy sauce dip as an appetizer, mahi mahi in vanilla sauce and shrimps in curry (do you see a recurring theme in our food favorites?) for the main course, and a rum raisin ice cream and mango parfait with a very large rolled cookie sticking straight up. The Tahitian waitresses came out and danced for the patrons during the meal, and we loved the free show. We then drove around the island in the dark not seeing much, and returned to the Sheraton to retire. Even the though the island is small, I had no desire to drive around it again since I didnt think the view of the ocean or the interior island would be all that strikingly different, but I could be wrong. We thought it would be nice to sleep on the deck that night due to the nice weather so we took all the sofa cushions and all the bedding onto the deck and did an overnight camp out under the stars. It was memorable to see the stars and hear the surf out on the reef all night long.

Thu, Oct 23 Another beautiful morning as we awoke on our deck at around 4:30 am. I realize that we get up early on our honeymoon but the sunrises are so beautiful that its worth the effort to watch the glowing sky and just take a nap later in the day to catch up. Because the weather was dry and cloudless, it was almost chilly that night out on the deck. Later that morning, my wife spotted a medium-sized manta ray about 50 feet from the deck and we got a picture of it. They are so beautiful as they glide gracefully through the water. An hour later, we got into our rental car and drove to Magasin Chen Lee (it was something in Chinese) in Pao Pao where we bought more juice, baguettes, and croissants. We then decided to go to the Belvedere Lookout to take advantage of the early sunlight and no crowds. We were the only ones up there at around 8:30 am and the cloudless view was breathtaking, especially the view of majestic Mt. Rotui. We visited the Tetiiroa Marae archealogical site observing the stone walls, sacred grounds, and unusual trees and vegetation and the agricultural school where we purchased local jams and vanilla beans. We also drove to the Papetoai in the northwest point of the island to shop for monoi oil and soap and then drove to Maharepa where we bought hand painted pareos. Then we drove over to the Moorea Distillery where we sampled different liqueurs and bought more souvenirs. The best treat at the distillery was a dance practice session of young Tahitians at the distillery. They performed three Marquesean Island dances and we got to witness their practice session. The most interesting one was a dance demonstrating male virility, and there was no doubt what some of their body gestures and movements indicated much to the amusement of my wife and me. Another amusing incident were the local teens throwing rocks at a mango tree to get them to fall to the ground. We stopped at a little gift shack just outside the Sheraton that had been recommended by another poster on a trip report. We looked at their wares and bought a couple of wood-carved bowls. This family the Casagalles are such a happy and blessed couple with three young children, a bird, a cat, and a watchdog named Rotui. We decided that our first pet would also be named Rotui. They asked that we send them a postcard to them upon returning to the States for their collection on the wall of the gift shack. We loved meeting the local people and sparking up small conversation with them.

Immediately after our little shopping spree, we returned the rental car to the Sheraton and got ready for dinner. A taxi picked us up to take us to Te Honu Iti along Cooks Bay, and I paid him 1000 cfp for my wife and me; he would drive us back to the Sheraton after dinner at no additional charge. We were one of the first patrons to arrive and had a nice table near the fire place (I know, it sounds strange, and the fireplace was not lit). The restaurant inside and out on the patio looks like a Swiss chalet. I felt a few mosquitos start to swarm around my legs so I sprayed some Deet on my legs. We had a nice young Tahitian waitress who took our order. We started out with an order of poisson cru, then ordered mahi mahi with vanilla sauce and Tournedos Rossini for our entrees. She came back and asked us how we wanted the meat cooked for the Tournedos Rossini and we told her medium- rare but she must have thought we said medium-well. The meat was overcooked and tought so we just put it aside and hoped that it would be re-prepared but nothing new arrived. We just decided to chalk it up to a communication problem and just laughed it off. It wasnt a big deal as we had eaten the foie gras and few bites of the meat and focused more on the very well-prepared mahi mahi. We ordered baked bananas with ice cream and clearly told another waitress that we wanted only one dessert in English and also in French. Well, lo and behold, two desserts arrived and we couldnt help but laugh. We believed that both waitresses didnt speak French all that well. We sent back one of them and they charged us for only one. We felt badly about the mixup on the dessert order but we did clearly say one in French and English and made the sign of one with our hands. I thought that Te Honu Iti was a little overrated and would have preferred the more casual island setting and foods found at Le Mahagony. We arrived back at the Sheraton where we had another hot bath in the clawfoot tub to sooth the busy day away.

Fri, Oct 24 This was our last day on Moorea. We awoke very early, had a continental breakfast on our deck, and began packing our things. Instead of waiting for the golf cart to pick us up at the room, we just walked back to the lobby, which was just fine for us, and also based on the recommendation of another board poster who waited forever for their cart pickup. Unfortunately, when we got to the registration desk, we got behind a gentleman who argued his honor bar and restaurant bill with the staff, and that was a little irritating since the staff at the Sheraton were so nice and friendly and the gentleman probably didnt remember what he had taken from the refrigerator. We then got on the shuttle bus that arrived promptly and got to Moorea Airport where we awaited our flight to Bora Bora. The flight to Bora Bora was nice and smooth, and the Rotui pineapple juice served by the flight attendant was so delicious. My wife sat on the left side of the plane and I on the other so we could get pictures on take off and landing. We sat next to another honeymooning couple from Indiana who stayed at the Sofitel Ia Ora and were about to stay at the Sofitel Marara on Bora Bora. The wife didnt care for the poisson cru, and fish didnt seem to be their favorite kind of food when we saw them a few days later at Snack Patoti. We landed at Huahine for a few minutes, and after the deplaning of many passengers, we took off again for Bora Bora.

The flight into Bora Bora was a dream come true: the myriad of blues and greens reflecting from the lagoon were unreal, and just like the pictures in the travel books but even better. After arriving at Bora Bora airport, we were in awe of the vivid green color of the water on the lagoon side, something unlike anything we had ever seen anywhere. Boarding the Sofitel shuttle boat, we took off along the east side of the island, passing the Le Meridien Hotel, where they were doing re-roofing of some of the OWBs, and arriving at the Sofitel Marara about 30 minutes later, where most of the guests disembarked on the dock. Three couples (including us) were transported by the same boat to the Sofitel Motu. Three minutes later we saw three Tahitians standing on the deck at the Motu docking pad: Tepoe, the very nice hotel manager, another lady holding the tiare leis, and the Tahitian man named Max in a pareo who blew the conch shell and played the ukulele. How neat is that for an arrival greeting? We were, of course, very warmly greeted with hugs and kisses, and those sweet-smelling tiare leis and freshly opened coconuts to drink the coconut juice with straws and decorated with unusually large hibiscus flowers.

Tepoe was holding a white envelope and I saw that it had a room number written on an envelope, 124, which I knew from my research was a room that didnt have the direct view of Mt. Otemanu but of the ocean horizon. I kindly asked if there was anyway we could get a room with a view of the mountain. After a little mishap where the room key card didnt work to open room 124, and then a phone call by Tepoe to the registration desk, she magically fulfilled our request for the room we desired and gave us room 117. We were grateful! From what I knew of the layout, room 129 and the teen rooms had the most direct view of Mt. Otemanu. I later observed by walking the docks that rooms 129, 116 and 117 have the most direct and perfect view of Mt. Otemanu (many of the other rooms have great views of Mt. Otemanu but not as directly situated as these three rooms).

The bungalow was absolutely beautiful and in some ways a little nicer than the Sheraton with the dual bathroom sinks and nicer deck but with a smaller portal window to the lagoon below (not a big deal to me) and no claw foot tub. The shower, however, was noteworthy with a large rainfall showerhead and a separate detachable showerhead if you didnt want water coming straight down on your head. After gaining our bearings on the hotel room, and learning the light switches, we enjoyed the fruit plate they provided in the room, walked to the hilltop to see our first Bora Bora sunset. Dont go up without a flashlight if you plan on staying a little longer past sunset because its pitch black on the way down and hard to gain your bearing on the lava steps and dirt path.

We had no dinner plans per se so tonight we went to the roulotte near the Intercontinental for dinner. The lit tiki torches and bamboo fence screen and the large hibiscus flowers attached to the roulette made the experience something similar to what you might see on a Gilligans Island episode. We ordered a tasty grilled steak and mahi mahi with parsley butter sauce, both served with frites. The garlic butter for the sliced baguette and the spicy ketchup for the frites had us wishing that we might come back here for another meal. The food order is taken by the cook after you take your seat on plastic furniture; the food was served by an older mahu who also cleaned the tables. Everyone was so nice to us, and the meal was most delicious and quite memorable. The twenty minute walk back to the hotel was pleasant that night and the night view of the Sofitel Motu sitting all lit up in the lagoon was a stunning sight. We stopped for ice cream and coconut pie at the Sofitel Marara before taking the boat back over to the Motu since La Bounty was already closed at 9:00 pm where we had hoped to have dessert.

Sat, Oct 25 Woke up around 4:30 am to watch the sunrise. The weather was a little breezy today. We walked to the Magasin Tiare to buy baguettes, croissants, pan au chocolate, orange marmalade and juices for breakfast, and delicious chicken baguette sandwiches for lunch. We spent close to 4000 cfps but a lot cheaper than eating hotel breakfasts and lunches, and faster, too. In fact, the stash of groceries, like juices and crackers, lasted us several days. We went snorkeling during the day, relaxed on the deck, and took a stroll over to Matira Beach that afternoon. It was beautiful at sunset with some clouds and a dazzling orange and blue sky. Here I saw the very rare atmospheric phenomenon called the green flash just before the sun disappeared below the ocean horizon. As we strolled farther along the beach, we were fortunate to have encountered three young Tahitian children fishing along the lava rock wall who had caught a small fish; the excitement expressed by these three youngsters was unbelievable. I took some outstanding pictures of these children with their fish against the darkening sunset sky - these photos are priceless.

We took dinner at La Bounty that evening, which was nice and had a great island atmosphere. Two large fresh fish colored gray, black, and blue were delivered to the kitchen while we were seated and the patrons were all in the kitchen admiring the large catch. Not sure what kind of fish they were but each must have weighed around 80 pounds. A young Tahitian waitress who served us became a little short tempered with us when we were not ready to place our order; and she gave us a little attitude for the entire evening, but we didnt let that bother us. We were there to eat and enjoy ourselves and didnt really care if the waitress liked us or not. The mahi mahi with vanilla sauce was fantastic but the mahi mahi with the cream raspberry vinegar sauce was even more delicious. Dessert was a chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and an order of profiteroles filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with homemade chocolate sauce, which I highly recommend.

We walked back to the Sofitel Marara where a Tahitian dance show was in progress. Lucky me, I got to go out there with other hotel guests and practice my skills in front of the entire audience. After the show, we took the boat back to the Motu. The Motu grounds are a beautiful sight at night since the lighting is so well done almost magical. We admired the romantic aura surrounding us as we strolled the well-maintained pathways at day and night, admiring the plants, flowers, and lava rock and concrete pathways. The veranda-covered bench facing the bungalow dock is a very romantic place to sit with your loved one after a filling and delicious dinner.

Sun, Oct 26 Did an early wake up to watch the sunrise and take more pictures. We spent the day on the Motu just relaxing. Today the weather was a little cloudy and the humidity, which had been relatively low the first six days of our trip, began to climb. We sensed rain was eminent. Tonight we would dine at Top Dive, a place I had heard so much about. I advise making reservations at least two or three days before you plan to dine there, especially if you are going on a Saturday night. The Top Dive shuttle van arrived on time in front of the Sofitel Marara. As we drove pass Matira Beach, the pale crescent moon was draped so low over the ocean that it left a nice romantic reflection on the water surreal and mysterious looking. Kind of wish I was walking on the beach with my wife at that moment. It rained while we drove around the island to the restaurant. As we passed through Vaitape, we saw three roulettes and the wonderful food aroma from the trucks helped build our appetite for Top Dive.

Top Dive is a gorgeous and elegant restaurant, and somewhat of a pleasant shock to the eyes and mind after having eaten in wonderful thatch hut restaurants the past week. Service is superb and every aspect of the dining experience was a study in perfection. We felt pampered and well-cared for from start to finish. We began the evening with appetizers consisting of foie gras served three different ways and mouthwatering raviolis stuffed with champiogne mushroom and celery in a savory broth. Both were excellent. The main courses were a mahi mahi with vegetables in saffron with some kind of unidentifiable sauce and also the shrimp and mussel-stuffed scallops in curry sauce with surprise package, which were filled with additional shrimp and scallops wrapped up in filo like a sack and fried. Dessert was Tahaa Vanilla Crme Brulee and the other was a whole banana stuffed in a crispy crepe with pistachio meringue puff in banana sauce and chocolate mousse with a bright green caramelized sugar decoration that resembled ocean waves. Only a picture can truly describe the beauty of this dessert; the taste was magnificent. We didnt order any alcohol and the tab came to around 16000 cfps. Well worth the money for the food, dining experience, and atmosphere. It rained very hard several times during the course of dinner so the staff closed the big glass doors and reopened them when the rain stopped. We arrived back at the Sofitel in rain and the front desk gave us an umbrella to use to walk back to the dock and to use while walking on the Motu.

Mon, Oct 27 Today we slept in until around 6:30 am. I felt that we should see the other side of the main island in daylight so we took the Le Truck to Vaitape (600 cfps per person) where we shopped for small souveniers. We saw the 1000 cfp black pearls on a wire that someone on this board said to look for and found these to be very good and inexpensive gifts. Several of the pearls had a beautiful colorful luster and interesting shape. Also found a nicely priced mother-of-pearl flower pendant with a nice black pearl in the middle. Talk about value. We walked over to the fruit and fish vendors, taking some wonderful pictures of the colorful pineapples, mangoes, red bananas, and watermelons. Whole watermelons sold for 2000 cfps, which we thought were pricey. Took pictures of the beautifully painted church on the mountainside of the street. Also bought a Hinano shirt for around 2800 cfps and a nice pareo. We misunderstood the driver of the Le Truck about the return time, and luckily while we were shopping on the street, we saw the Le Truck slow down for us and another passenger, and we got on board, otherwise we would have had to wait for the next one about two hours later. Returned to the Motu and relaxed on the deck.

We had a tasty lunch at Snack Patoti, near the Marara. What a great little snack restaurant this turned out to be in the typical thatch hut design. The Tahitian waitress was a little shy but very attentive (we were the only patrons there!). The colors scheme of the restaurant was really cool as they used different brightly colored pareos to drape each table. They had the most delicious poisson cru on the island - we had two orders and wish we had more!. We split the mahi mahi with vanilla sauce, which we found delicately cooked, if slightly underdone for most eaters. The sauce was more on the savory side versus some of the sweeter sauces at other restaurants, with the subtlest hint of fresh vanilla bean, a good amount of butter and cream. We left satisfied and happy. The owner had some interesting culinary awards and art work on the walls, which you should check out if you eat there.

Tonight was the night that I had been anticipating for most of the year: I surprised my wife with a romantic private beach candlelight dinner complete with two musicians and private wait staff at the Sofitel Motu. After watching our last sunset from the hilltop, we walked to the room, changed into comfortable yet nice island clothes, and I told my wife I would ask the Motu staff at the front desk for a restaurant recommendation on the main island. As we waited in the Manu Tuki restaurant with my wife, who was in the dark of what was to come, a Tahitian gentlemen told me to follow him, and so as not to give away that we might be eating on the Motu itself, my wife and I walked down the lava steps far enough behind the gentleman and toward the dock, and then made a quicky right turn onto the beach, where a beautiful table had been set for us in view of all those walking around on the Motu. The surprised looked on my wifes face when she realized that beautifully set table was for us made the moment priceless. The two musicians, Turo and Roi, played the guitar and ukulele, while my wife and I conversed at the table and danced romantically on the beach. We ordered our drinks a blue Paradise and a Royal Maitai - and a fine French-Tahitian meal. I realize that the Manu Tuki restaurant has often gotten a bad rap by some people on these boards and in other forums, but my wife and I who dine out fairly frequently, beg to differ based on what we experienced. The food was excellently prepared albeit smaller portions than what some are accustomed to. Still, the quality and blending of flavors were second-to-none and the presentation in line with top quality restaurants. We started out with a plate of foie gras with the crispiest yet most tender baguette buttered toast and an upside down tomato and basil tartlet. Entrees included my wifes duck breast cooked to medium with a sweet fruit sauce accompanied by stuffed parmesan tomatoes and my entre of the lagoon fish stuffed with eggplant puree. The flavors and textures were incredible, and we savored each bite. Dessert was an order of bananas and orange slices flamb with vanilla ice cream and a complimentary plate of coconut macaroons and cookies. The food, service, music, and the warm balmy evening couldnt have been better. We were both in French Polynesian heaven. If you can swing this kind of dinner for your loved one, do so. The memories will carry on for many years. After dinner ended, we jumped into a hammock on the beach and took a nice midnight nap.

Tue, Oct 29 Our last day, we decided to finish up the last of our breakfast goods from Tiare Market. It was really hot and humid today, and this was the first day we had to use the air conditioning since the beginning of the trip as the temperature was in the high 80s with humidity to match. After packing and taking in one last view from the hilltop of the Motu, we had lunch in the Manu Tuki Restaurant. Strange that it was empty at noon except for us, but that was ok. We ordered the Motu cheeseburger at 1650 cfps. It was slightly underdone just the way my wife and I like it. It was tasty and maybe not any better than any true American hamburger in the States but the just slightly undone meat and the mayonnaise made it so darn tasty and juicy. The French Fries were also good, so hot and crisp. The best part of the meal was the vanilla bean ice cream, coconut ice cream, and mango sorbet at around 1300 cfps.

The prices are a little high at the Manu Tuki Restaurant but I think the quality of the food, its preparation and the view of the lagoon make it worth the money. Portions are smaller but thats the probably the French influence. Plus, if you are really hungry, you can always load up on baguettes and butter, which are really good. An interesting little side note: the bottled water was served in a chilled terra cotta cooler. Just another litttle nice touch of the Sofitel operations.

Check-out time at the Motu was a little sad for me. We got a late checkout due to our Sofitel Previliged Card status. We left a pair of aqua socks in the room and the cleaning staff asked us if they could have it so I glady wrote a note to hotel management explaining that it was our pleasure to leave the aqua socks for them. After settling our restaurant bill at the main desk, we only had about 250 cfps remaining; we spent all our cfps while on the islands of Moorea and Bora Bora. We took pictures with staff, who were really helpful and friendly, and then boarded the boat to Bora Bora Airport.

We landed at Tahiti Airport, and since we didnt have any cfps, we ate a baguette sandwich that we bought in Bora Bora, almonds and fruit rolls that I had brought from the States. Those from-home snacks saved the day. We looked at the black pearl shop at the airport and the floral shop primarily to escape the very high heat and humidity. Finally, we were permitted access to the boarding lounge, where overhead fans helped cool us down just slightly before we got on the plane. Humidity was at 100% and it was in the mid-80s. The plane ride back was tiring and not as comfortable as when we flew to Tahiti. We were served a decent dinner of baked fish with vanilla sauce, and after a three hour snooze, a breakfast of crepes. I bought a few items from the duty free on-board shopping since the costs of some gifts were cheaper than buying it on the islands itself. The landing in LAX was smooth, and clearing immigration and customs were a breeze. The only wait was for the luggage, which took half an hour to 45 minutes at least (I think those who check in early for the flight get their luggage on first and are the last ones to get it off the plane at LAX).

Last impression: Overall, it was a phenomenal trip. I used this website quite a bit for opinions on restaurants and the Jan Prince book, and used it both as a guide (but not as gospel) on deciding where we ate and where we stayed. Moorea had those stunning mountains and beautiful lagoon off the deck of the Sheraton. The Geographically, most of Moorea and parts of Bora Bora reminded me of the north shore of Oahu Hawaii a little underdeveloped and more homes with local people. Bora Bora was a little more expensive and felt a little more touristy but not that much more. Maybe things were just a little more concentrated on Bora Bora since the island is smaller.

As for accomodations, we were pleased with both the Sheraton Moorea and the Sofitel Motu. The Sheraton Moorea is a luxurious resort with all the amenities one could want to make the stay most enjoyable and yet relaxing. While it is a large property, we felt it had enough privacy and staff-attentiveness to compete with the best resorts around the world. It had its own unique character and didn't feel overstuffy or generic. I think the staff had a lot to do with our impression of the property. Even better was the Sofitel Motu that gave us a lot of privacy and luxury that we desired without the feeling of being artificial or corporate. The peace and quiet along with the personalized service each staff member gives you will be long remembered as an intergral component of the Sofitel Motu experience. Each property had its positives and a few negatives but clearly met our expectations in luxury and value in light of costs.

I felt that the restaurant service on both islands was about as quick as here in the States. Communicating in broken French caused a few mishaps that we just blew off with some humor and didnt worry about it. To truly enjoy the islands, one should be open to seafood, but if meat is your calling, there never seemed to be an absence of some kind of meat dishes. Again, we found the speed of service to be mostly punctual with only a few encounters of slow wait staff. In those cases, I just got up and looked for the wait staff and smiled that we were ready to order or pay our bill. A smile always went a long way.

After reading all the travel reports here on this board, we went down to French Polynesia with just slightly lower expectations and came away so surprised by the friendliness of the staff and the mostly punctual service. Both my wife and I rarely made demands on any staff and, as mentioned, we smiled (maybe just a little bit more than what we were accustomed to in the States), and used iorana, merci, and bon jour at every opportunity we could. I think that helped us with how we were treated by hotel and restaurant staff, and made the trip more enjoyable and authentic. I have to believe that a Tahitian vacation is only as good as you let it become based on your friendly attitude, letting down your guard, and treating our Tahitian hosts with all the respect they deserve as a guest of their islands.

An issue for many of us is the cost. Granted, we travelers are spending an arm and a leg to get there, sleep there, and eat there, but we all know the relatively high costs before we go there. Therefore, just because we spend maybe $80 USD per person for dinner doesnt necessarily mean that we are going to get twice the bang for the buck versus what we get at home on service or food quantity. I look at the cost as a consequence of being able to see and experience French Polynesian beauty, and not the other way around. We are all pretty much on budgets but my take on it is as follows: to be frugal and cost conscious is to be wise but to be down right cheap and nit-picky is to be foolish. Jan Prince, the author of the Tahiti Travel Book that most of use, nicely sums it up in her book how she is amused that some travelers she overheard at a resort were bragging about how much they saved in little ways but didnt take the time to enjoy the beauty of French Polynesia. If you can go to French Polynesia and watch your costs but not let it obsess you, enjoy the islands and all it has to offer with a little humility, and take a light-hearted attitude at all you experience, your trip will be as spectacular as what my wife and I experienced for nine days on Moorea and Bora Bora. We can hardly wait to return.

Finally, thank you to Tahiti-Explorer and all of you who posted on the forum and submitted travel reports. It made a big difference.

Sincerely,
Rod and Paraskevi June
Seal Beach, California
Questions or comments can be directed to

Rod June <rnpjune2003@yahoo.com>
Seal Beach, CA USA - Friday, November 07, 2003 at 19:34:49 (EST)
Oct 13 thru October 20 - Our unforgettable honeymoon in French Polynesia went something like this...

Oct 12th flight LA to Tahiti. Left LAX at 1am Tuesday morning on Air France. Arrived in Papeete at 6am. Transferred to our flight to Bora Bora without any problems. Air France flight was fully booked, but other than that a great flight. Once we arrived in Bora Bora we looked for our Sofitel Motu Boat shuttle. It was a cloudy and raining just a little. We got to the Sofitel Motu and were greated by a Tahitian playing the ukelele and blowing a conch shell. We hopped off the boat and were handed a cold towel, a flower lei and a cold fruit drink. What a way to start a honeymoon.

The Sofitel Motu was WONDERFUL. Our overwater bungalow was #128. What luck! We had a beautiful view of Bora Bora across the lagoon. The room was great! A king size bed, clean and well kept. We saw no bugs, and just a few (cute) little geckos. I can't imagine a "bad" bungalow choice, but 128 was right at the point so we really had no views of our neighbors. The AC did not work all that well, but it was breezy/windy enough so we just kep the door open.

We LOVED Bora Bora. We did the private Motu picnic, arranged by the hotel. Kiesha ll it was called. Peiro our guide was wonderful, it is actually his own boat, and his son operates a second boat. He took us to the shark and stingwray feeding area (totally cool) and a few other snorkeling spots, even helping us find some unique fish in some of the areas. The most wonderful experience of all was the private Motu picnic. He dropped us off in the shallow crystal clear water and told us to "swim in his pool for awhile." Turns out - what he meant by that... his mother had left him a patch of land - and this is where he took his tours for the lunch part of the day. As we floated and sipped our drinks, we watched him set up a picnic table, umbrella and barbecue right in the water. Sitting in the water, looking up at the clear blue sky, looking at the Bora Bora mountains it was a surreal experience. We waded to shore and sat down at our impeccably decorated table. Fine china, champagne, flowers, he even made me a crown of flowers to wear. The meal was out of this world. Let me first say that I do not eat fish, however - this fish I ate. He wakes up in the morning and catches the fish himself, his wife makes the salad, dressings, etc. The meal started with a salad and a dish of the raw fish in coconut milk (ok, I didn't eat the raw stuff). :) Next was Lobster and shrimp grilled right in front of us on the barbecue, then another local fish (not sure of the name), and then steak, followed by fruit for dessert. MAN - what a wonderful lunch. We were stuffed to the gills. Can't forget about the bread and champagne. We fed some of the bread to the fish that swam around our feet as we ate. We felt like we were on Lifestyles of the Rich of Famous. It was just the most amazing day. It is an expensive activity. But is soooo worth it.

We also did a 4 x 4 jeep tour - that was a fun way to see the island! My husband parasailed around the lagoon. We only had 3 days in Bora Bora, it would have been nice to spend a few more days there, but still a great time.

Contrary to what I've read on all the boards here, we had great meals. The only "bad" meal we had was at Bloody Mary's, and it was not BAD, it was just ok. The atmosphere is worth the trip however, and my husband enjoyed the bloody Mary's. We ate at Top Dive and also enjoyed the Beach Barbecue at the Hotel Bora Bora. This night was made extra special by the fact that Robert Redford was sitting 3 tables away from us. What a beautiful hotel, and we really enjoyed the beach barbecue buffet and Polynesian show.

We were sad to leave Bora Bora. Staying at the Sofitel Motu, you just feel like you are your own private piece of heaven. It was so peaceful, and you really didn't see other people unless you were boating over to the main island. The beauty of the lagoon and the water was truly amazing.

Moorea - we stayed at the Sheraton Moorea Lagoon Resort. The "feel" of Moorea is a little more commercialized (and I mean that in a very small way), but the island itself is larger with more mountains than Bora Bora. As we waited for our Albert Shuttle to the hotel, we were given all sorts of tour information and black pearl shop information. They seemed to "sell" alot more on Moorea - but by no means are pushy.

The Sheraton was a beautiful hotel, much larger than the Sofitel Motu, and has more of an "American" feel to it. The Front Desk, Activities desk, etc. are all helpful, but not the all out, do anything we can for you service that you get in Bora Bora. Just our observation and not a complaint AT ALL. More rooms, mean more people - so you don't have a secluded feeling like we did in BB. We had an overwater bungalow here as well, we were right in the middle of the pack, but you really don't mind your neighbors, if you see them at all.

We did the 4 x 4 tour of Moorea, which was good to give us our bearings. The fruit juice distillery is great. They just line up the shot glasses and your done with 8 or so flavors in about 3 minutes. :) We rented a car from the hotel and toured around the islands ourselves which was fun. It was good to get away and drive yourself. We did our souvenir shopping along the way. We went to the Black Pearl Gem Company, which was recommended in our guide book (Jan Prince). We really enjoyed our experience here, and found them to to have the biggest selection. The free Hinano's for the hubby and the photo they take of you at the end were classic touches. Another day we took the ferry to Papeete. Only 30 minutes- and we figured we could finish up all of our souvenir shopping over there. It was neat to see a different side of French Polynesia, but as soon as we pulled into port, I wanted to turn around... office buidlings, traffic, lots of people - I wanted to be back in my relaxing tropical location - not in a city. It was ok though - the market was great for gifts for back home. We only spent 2 hours here and that was plenty of time to shop the market and get something to eat.

We ate at Alfred's - great food, friendly owner and staff!! Te Honu Ito - great food, but the night we were there, the service was EXTREMELY slow. We were patient, but it was a reallly long night. The location is great and if you sit by the water you can see the sting rays come up for "leftovers". We also went to Linareva - the floating restaurant. It was a long drive from our hotel, but it was an interesting atmosphere and the food was good. We also ate at the Sheraton, at their Seafood Buffet night. The food was good, and there was a Polynesion show. The show was a little on the lame side. All the dancers seemed to be under the age of 16 and they did not know the dances, they kept looking at each other and laughing. Just didn't seem like a "professional" operation. We enjoyed the show at the Hotel Bora Bora Barbecue better.

It was the most wonderful vacation I have ever experienced. I am telling everyone I know, that if they have they chance they simply must go. The water, the mountains, the friendly people. The first day there was cloudy and occaasions of rain, but the rest of the trip was sunny and gorgeous. Despite some of my comments above, there was absolutely nothing wrong with our trip. I only hope that we will make it back there some day. :)

Christine and Steve <cburke@67south.com>
Bethlehem, PA USA - Friday, November 07, 2003 at 16:58:16 (EST)
Just got back from a wonderful 10-night honeymoon in French Polynesia.

Nights 1-3, Pearl Beach Moorea, Deluxe Garden Bungalow: We arrived at the PB Moorea at about 9 o'clock at night and were shown to our room (#210). The room was about what we expected of a Garden Bungalow. It was a decent size and appeared clean. Our champagne was waiting for us. We weren't very impressed by the lagoon here...it was murky and didn't look much different from what we have here on the US east coast. We mostly spent our days by the pool. We took Albert's 4x4 Jeep Tour, which was fun, although I wished I didn't wear my white shorts -- it's a pretty dusty drive. Walked into town and bought several black pearls. By day three, we were definitely ready to leave this resort. It's small and the service at the restaurant is terrible, as was much of the food. I gave some of my dinners to the poor cats and dog wandering around the resort, as they looked liked they needed a meal. Please feed them; they obviously depend on the kindness of tourists. On the morning of our departure, we found a HUGE cockroach in our bathroom. We were happy to leave. PB Moorea can definitely stand to learn a few lessons from the other Pearl Resorts.

Nights 4-7, Pearl Beach Bora Bora, Beach Suite: After Moorea, Bora Bora was heaven. After our boat transfer, we were greeted by a representative, given a cool drink and cold cloths and shown to our beach suite. We had the third bungalow from the end (#58) and it was perfect! Far away from the pool, so it was private and the view was awesome! We loved our room here. The outdoor bathroom/shower is very cool. Bungalows 57 and 59 are also well situated for privacy and have hammocks. We spent our days on the beach and in the gorgeous lagoon and never even stepped foot in the beautiful pool there. The food was good and the service much, much better than at PB Moorea. We had a great time at our shark/sting ray-feeding excursion. Dinner at Bloody Mary's was fun, although expensive. I did glance at the floor a few times and was relieved that it wasn't 'moving' on this particular night. It rained really hard a few nights, but the days were mostly sunny. I've read that in some seasons, the mosquitoes are a problem here, but we didn't see any, luckily. It was really hard to leave beautiful Bora Bora.

Nights 7-10, Pearl Beach Taha'a, Moana OWB: We were so sad to leave our Bora Bora Beach Bungalow that Taha'a couldn't compare. The resort grew on us though. The service was good. The OWB (#12) was nice, although not as private as I would have liked. But the view was pretty and the resort did feel secluded and empty. Our first night the restaurant held a Polynesian Buffet that wasn't particularly good, but the Mahi-Mahi burgers are excellent. The resort only has a few activities/excursions each day, and we didn't do much here but relax and enjoy our last days. The lagoon off to the side of the pool has great snorkeling, which we really enjoyed. Bring some bread with you and all kinds of fish will swarm around you. My biggest problem with this hotel was the enormous beetle/cockroach-type bugs we found in our room each night. I had heard about the bugs in FP, but I didn't expect them in the OWB and I was pretty disgusted that I had to deal with this on our vacation. Overall, I didn't really see what the big deal about the Taha'a resort is...it's nice, but couldn't compare to PB Bora Bora for us.

Overall, we had a great trip. Our vacations are usually action-packed, so it was nice just to sit back and relax this time. We visited 3 islands in 10 nights and I was surprised how smoothly all our transfers were. All the flights and boat transfers were on time and pleasant. If we ever went back, I'd skip Moorea and spend more time at Bora Bora and I'd also like to visit Huahine -- I heard from several other honeymooners that it was their favorite island. I found the natural beauty of FP to be unparalleled, but generally speaking, I think the resorts (maybe its just the Pearl Beach resorts) have a lot to learn.

Catherine
Brookline, MA US - Monday, October 13, 2003 at 14:42:33 (EDT)
My husband and I went to Moorea last Feb (2003) for our 30th anniversary. We stayed in the Sofitel in a garden bungalow,number 600 that was 57 paces from the Sea of Moons. Every minute in Moorea was beyond fabulous for us. However, we loved the people, the scenery, the water, the sunrises and the Sofitel. We are not into nightlife or bars or restaurants. We discovered the roulette the last night we were there, where you eat with the natives and get more food than you can possibly eat for about $6.00. They make it right there and the natives bring their own containers for takeout. We were given mosquito repellent to smear on but never saw mosquitoes. The Sofitel sprays all the time which really concerns us. We loved our hut and it certainly is not luxury, but all we did was sleep there. The grounds are beautiful and the sky and nights are velvet, magical, fabulous. We went swimming at night in the Sea of Moons. I brought an air mattress and floated in the 80degree water. We rented a car and my husband drove around and picked up hitchikers and stopped and talked to the natives. Of all the resorts, we liked the Sofitel. There were hardly any people on the beach and we snorkled right by the Sofitel although we went to the Lagoonarium one day.`The buffet breakfasts at the Sofitel had everything anyone could possibly want. We ate in restaurants and the food was not that good. Roulettes for us. We took a sailboat cruise which was nice. Since we had a car, we drove wherever we wanted when we wanted. To us it was paradise. But, if you want Las Vegas or New York, I suggest Moorea is not for you. We want to go back, but our next trip is to Huahine. The natives recommended that island to us. It's a risk because it's hard to believe anything could be more fabulous than Moorea.`I wish I had bought the Noni juice which is supposed to be good for all kinds of healthy things. I also wish I had bought the monoi oil. We met an environmentalist on the island, from one of the old families of the island. We were educated about the destruction because of the overwater bungalows and the pesticide use. I hope that the people can do something to save paradise on earth.`````````
Don and Inese Holte <holte@cpinternet.com>
Duluth, MN USA - Sunday, October 12, 2003 at 00:42:05 (EDT)
My boyfriend and I just returned from 7 nights in Tahiti (2 nights at the Intercontinental Beach Resort) and Moorea (5 nights at the Pearl Beach Resort), plus over night stays going and returning in Los Angeles. It was great a trip -- far too short. The pictures don't quite reflect how beautiful it was.
I recommend staying over at a hotel near LAX coming and going if you're flying from the East Coast. It makes the trip more relaxing, the hotels are pretty cheap (avg. $60-70/night), and they all have free 24 hour shuttle buses to LAX.
We loved the Intercontinental in Tahiti. We stayed in OWB #502. It was beautiful. We felt very spoiled. I'm a real hotel snob, and this was definitely a five star resort. It was very clean, with great service, good drinks, and centrally located. My only negative comments are that check in and out took a little while, so be prepared, the food's not that great, and the birds some time appear as if they are going to attack during breakfast. But all in all, it was worth the money.
We were only in Tahiti for two days. We did go to the market in Papeete by Le Truck. It was rickety, but fun and efficient, but the trip into town, shopping, and back, only took up about 3 hours of time. If you're really active then you might prefer another venue. But for me, lazing around all day in the beautiful horizon pools, having drinks at the swimup bar, and staring at Moorea from our OWB deck was enough.
Next, we went to Moorea. The Pearl Beach garden room was a major disappointment after the OWB. We definitely should have done the OWB on the back end of the trip -- my fault. But I could have survived were it not for the ant and other? infestation in the bathroom. We decided to upgrade at our own cost to an OWB for the week, which ended up being less than what we would have paid had we originally booked it in the states.
OWB #408 was absolutely beautiful, and we were very happy, until around 6 p.m., when a bevy of flying bugs attacked our room. We tried to turn the lights out, but then they went for the bed, and I freaked. It turns out that the OWB's are not completely enclosed, so if you have the ceiling lights on when the sun is going down, light seeking bugs might get in trying to get to the light. Fortunately, the manager on duty moved us immediately to another OWB. OWB #426 was equally as beautiful as the first, but it took me a few hours to calm down after the bug attack.
Our issues, unfortunately, did not end with the bugs in OWB #408. The hotel was very understaffed and the service was not great. By the time we left, we had a list of grievances about 4 to 5 pages long. I'll spare everyone the details. We did not make a scene though. We did, however, drop off a letter at the front desk on the day of our check out. To the hotel's credit, they apologized profusely and removed the entire charge for upgrading to an OWB from our bill. This was far more than we expected and showed some serious good faith on their part.
As for excursions on Moorea, we loved Dr. Poole's tour and the 4X4 excursion. We saw humpbacks jump fully out the water twice.
The food wasn't so great, but we found Daniel's Pizza on our last day, and his pizza was great, plus he was really sweet. You'll need a car to get to his place, because it's on the other side of the island. I wasn't crazy about Alfredo's, except for the garlic bread, which was amazing.
All in all, it was a great trip. We had some issues along the way, but not enough to spoil our fun. I highly recommend the trip, and I'll post pictures soon.
Mesq <mfordesq32@yahoo.com>
Baltimore, MD United States - Thursday, October 09, 2003 at 18:41:43 (EDT)
We spent our honeymoon in paradise, that's for sure! Wanted to post a trip report as there isn't always a ton of information on these islands- especially Rangi.

Flew from Seattle to LAX then on to Papeete Tahiti on Air Tahiti Nui. Great airline, pretty decent seats, entertainment systems and food.

Papeete to Rangiroa. Wow! Rangi is so secluded and not inundated by tourists yet. It's in a seperate chain called the Tuamotus and is about a 45 flight from Tahiti.

Stayed 2 nights at the Kia Ora in a beach bungalow. Sooo nice! comfy beds, a/c, amazing bathroom, jucuzzi in deck, etc. The grounds are lush and wonderful! Food at the restaurant was ok. We also ate near town at Le Kai Kai which was good too. Stay away from the Rangi wine, overpriced and underdeveloped! The pool at the Kia Ora is beautiful and there is a Top Dive just down the beach- walk on the beach to get there. Snorkled the pass which can only be done in the morning. Fantastic visibility of 80 to 100 feet. Sharks, eels, barracuda, trigger fish, etc!

From there we went to Kia Ora Sauvage. It's an hour boat ride across the lagoon. You leave some bags at the Kia Ora and just take what you need. This secluded motu was so dramatically beautiful I almost cried when we pulled up to it. No electricity, beach bungalows are amazing, mosquito netted beds, sand floor bathrooms, Coleman lanterns for light. Only 12 people max and our guests didn't speak english so it was very rustic, private, amazing! We were taken to other private motus to explore, snorkled, fed sharks and lounged about enjoying the peace, quiet and beauty. 2 nights was not long enough! We will plan on 3 next time.

Boat back to Kia Ora for the day then plane to Moorea.

Stayed 4 nights at the Sheraton Moorea. This is an amazing resort. Much nicer than the IC and possibly the best location on the island. O/W bungalow had awesome views of the mountains and the horizan. Tons of fish and coral right under us for daily snorkling. Huge bathroom with claw foot tub, shower, pillow menu (oh yeah!), class top coffee table for fish viewing, 2 tiered deck, fresh water shower on lower deck, etc.

Food at the restaurant was not worth it (time or money) but the beach cafe for lunch was perfect. Top Dive is on sight. Great diving. Also rented a car for the day and drove around on our own. Perfect and relaxing. This island is incredibly beautiful. Many fantastic restaurants- Le Mahogony, Huno ito ( spelled that wrong but it means the little turtle) and Alfredo's. The spa at the Sheraton is great also!

Plane from Moorea to Bora Bora. Stayed 4 nights at the Pearl Beach in a Garden Bungalow. Really nice resort but definately not as service oriented as the others we stayed at. Our bungalow was large and really neat with a plunge pool on the deck, outside shower, A/C and 7 ft. high fence around making privacy a non issue.

We went on a Land Rover tour which was very fun and also went sailing at sunset which was beautiful. Wonderful dinner at Top Dive although the portions are very small. Also ate at Bloody Marys which we thought was like an Outback steakhouse. Not impressed! The Bamboo House was another great place though!

Diving was great, saw a Manta Ray at 110 feet! And of course sharks!

All in all Bora Bora was the most touristy and "american" of the islands. We liked it but the other islands were better for us.

Truely a fantastic trip!!! We look forward to exploring more of these islands!

Wendy
Seattle, WA USA - Wednesday, October 08, 2003 at 16:12:48 (EDT)
Tahiti Journal

9/17/03
Leave for LA. We had the bright idea of combining our clothes so that we had one luggage for clothes and one for the snorkel stuff/toiletries and food. When we got to Newark, both were too heavy for a domestic flight. Luckily, since we were heading toward Tahiti and it is international, we were able to get thru with heavier bags. Continental flight was decent but cramped. Tried to read and watch the movie but i was too uncomfortable...i hate flying. Got to LA (our baggage made it!!) and tried to wheel our heavy luggage to the Air Tahiti (Bradley) terminal ourselves. We got so tired that we stole one of the push carts that someone left on the sidewalk and wheeled everything in. Once again our luggage was too heavy. But they got it okayed and we were able get thru. Hung out in terminal until it was time to board out flight. Air Tahiti plane was HUGE. We were in the middle aisle and we were getting more tired by the minute. They passed out Tiare flowers when i was already passed out, so i missed it. I woke up when they gave out little goodie bags with an Eye cover, earplugs, earphones for the movies and socks! They also have a cool footrest that u can adjust to make u more comfortable. The plane was kinda chilly but i beared it since i slept most of the way. They had 6 different movies playing continuously and we had 2 meals...not bad.

We landed it Papeete fine and picked up our luggage (phew!...i have a phobia of losing luggage) and went thru customs..no sweat. Immediately met by Tekura travel who works with Costco Travel. We were greeted with Lei's and more papers to explain our itinerary. The flight deck to Moorea was still closed so we had about an hour n a half to kill before we went there. We exchanged money at the Bank of Polynesie: 101CFP to each US dollar (travelers checks) we changed $650. Then we sat with all the others by the Cafe/bar and had a few pastries and Cafe au Lait. We then Boarded a bus that took us 2 minutes away to the Moorea Flight area. We checked in and were given numbered boarding passes. They called out numbers and the people with that number would go on the first plane to Moorea. There were 2 planes going back and forth so we had to wait for them to come back. There was a snack bar in the waiting area and my husband tried the infamous Hinano Beer...cold and good. They finally called us and we boarded the TINY plane. There were like 10 others on the TINY plane. I was scared for takeoff but it was a piece of cake and a nice experience. The flight lasted less then 10 minutes. In Moorea, immediately greeted by Moorea Explorer rep who tried to tell us there were only 4 spots left on their 4x4 tour for tomorrow and that i should buy it now. I said we would think about it, heard the Alberts tours is better, so i found their counter and booked the 4x4 and boat cruise with Motu Picnic. We then boarded a bus headed to the Moorea Hotels. Last stop was our International Beachcomber.

Finally at the Hotel we were greeted and seated and offered teas/ coffees/ and juice while the check-in Lady got our paperwork. We filled out forms and waited for our room assignment. We had heard about a small market nearby(take a right outside of beachcomber, 5 minute walk) that sold cheap food and drinks so we took a short walk there. The pastries were almost all gone(they come in at 6am so gotta go early) but we managed to buy a small pizza and an apple danish. Got back to the hotel and our room was ready. We asked for Beach Bungalow #314 via email a few months ago..heard it was a great bungalow because of shade and beach access but we were given the one next door #315 which was just as wonderful. The view was perfection. I cannot describe how awesome the bungalow is. Immaculate with a gorgeous shower and soaking tub, big closet space double sinks in the bathrooms, huge bed. There were fresh flowers and during the day they knocked on the door to give us champagne and some honeymooner gifts: a tshirt and pareo(which was useful)

We headed out to the beach and pool area and picked a spot. Can i just add,.this place is truly paradise...i wish i had a sense of smell(I dont) because i know it would be fabulous . But the sights and sounds are enough to make u quit your job and move here permanently. The water was the perfect temperature, and with the overall weather, not to hot not too cold. Perfect.

We ate Lunch across the street at MISS PIZZA ... it was okay...thin crust..and for some reason they crack and egg on top while its cooking and let it get hard there???pizza with an egg ontop???whatever. Cost $12.

We then made reservations for TE HONO ITU...heard so much about this place. We requested a table by the water and got it. At this restaurant we were seated right by the water. The stingrays and fish swam up to the light by the deck near our table.. I ordered the fish soup (salty) but it came with this garlic spread to put on little pieces of toast (yum, i love garlic!) My husband ordered the chicken n shrimp in lobster sauce for dinner and i had the Mahi Mahi in Mushroom cream sauce. Both were okay..fine it was good, maybe i was still full from the pizza... i had Creme Brulee for dessert which which was typically good and he had the Banana chocalate mousse cake which he says was delicious. Dinner cost us $130.

Went home, took a bubble bath and went to sleep.

9/19/03
Wake up call at 5:45 so we can watch the sunrise and go to the markets for breakfast pastries(gotta go early or they will all be gone) Went to the bridge near Dolphin Quest to watch the sunrise. You can hear the dolphins playing around by the bridge. The market was fully stocket with the pastries. We got so much: Pizza, chocalate croissants, donuts, and a large muffin. Went back to have breakfast on the deck. We made tea and coffee from the in room supplies. It was wonderful and cheap. Breakfast at the Hotel is a Buffet $26 per person...kinda pricey since i don't eat that much for breakfast, i'd rather spend the money on dinner.

We watched a DVD on the laptop until 9am when we were picked up by a van to go tothe Alberts Boat Cruise and Motu Picnic. This was worth EVERY PENNY. It was $60 per person. We boarded a catamaran near the Club Bali Hai. The tour guide was very good, he explained all the mountain peaks and pointed put things here and there. We went past both bays and docked near the Sheraton (but far out) for the shark feeding. This really pissed us off: we didn't know to bring our snorkels and no one told us to! We bought them for the sole purpose of not using anyone elses nasty masks, but we had to our we would have missed one of the greateest experiences here in Moorea. Swimming with Sharks! I was scared but they don't bother u ...you are literally swimming WITH the sharks, watching them be fed by our tours guides. BRING YOUR UNDERWATER CAMERAS! it was an experience we will never forget. Next, off to the Sting Ray Feeding by our Beachcomber. These damn stingrays really freak me out. They creep up behind u and feel up against u, and the tour guides love to hear stupid chicks like me scream when they pull them near me. I don't know, i tried to pet them ( sort of slimy and sandy) but i just don't really enjoy those slimy creatures. My husband LOVED it. The guides give u fish to feed them and he kept teasing them...having them follow the fish around in his hand and peek up over the water surface. I had enough and climbed back on the boat. I was chilly too so i sat on the edge of the boat in the direct sun for a while.

Then off to the Motu Picnic. They docked us near a cute motu, seems like all the tours go here too..we saw a few boats. They demonstrated the coconut husking and we were able to eat some. We snorkeled around until they had the Barbecue ready for us. There was ice cold water, juice and Hinanos ready for us. They also demonstrated how to make to Poisson Cru(raw tuna, lime juice, salt, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and cocunut juice mixed together) Now it was time to eat. This was ABSOLUTELY the freshest most delicious meal. Fresh grilled tuna (so tender unlike the tuna in any US restaurant) the Poisson Cru was soooo good and i don't even like raw fish at all! They had fried rice, bread, barbecued chicken and the sweetest pineapples. We pigged out and snorkeled some more. They gave us some raw tuna to feed the fish with while we snorkeled. It was really cool because the colorful fish actually come us to your hand and take little bites of the fish from you. Then the damn stingrays found me again and i had to get out of the water. Those freeky things! He followed me all the way up to the shore. Everyone laughed at me.

Then they dropped us off at the Beachcomber deck. Thanks goodness, because i thought we would have to boat all the way back to Club Bali Hai and then get dropped of by van. That would have taken forever. We dropped our things off at the pool and walked to the activities desk to make reservtions for Le Bataeu for dinner. We sat by the pool until the sun started to go away, went back to our bungalow and watched the sunset, took a bubble bath and shower, then took a power nap until it was time for our 8pm pickup. We were the only ones in the van and the ride seemed pretty scary in the dark local areas of Moorea. They driver dropped us off and told us to just walk to the back. We walked slowly to the back of the house and saw a long pier leading to a boat. The pier was scary because very step was unstable, it felt like the wood pier would break through any minute. But we survived and sat down to dinner. This dinner was also very very good. The waitresses danced their native dance for us then took or orders. We had Mussels in White wine sauce, they taught us how to pinch the mussels with a used shell rather than using a fork to get the meat( why didn't we ever think of that before??) I had the Fillet of Parrot fish in Vanilla sauce: heaven! Creamy mild sauce with a hint of vanilla..not too much and not sweet(i was afraid of that) He had Swordfish steak in Lemon Butter sauce: so tender! For dessert, Protiferoles( cream puffs filled with vanilla icecream topped with nuts with SPARKLERS burning in them!) and he had Mango Sorbet. Dinner cost us $103.

Other honeymooners rode back with us and mentioned how the Sheraton where they were staying only had a double bed and there were lots of bugs and geckos in their bungalow
Went home in a food coma and passed out.

9/20/03
Woke up at 6am for our morning stroll to the market. Found out it is called Raimoana Market. They are so friendly there and we bought more pastries and cheap water bottles. I was also told that this was one of the cheapest places to buy the tahiti soaps ansd monoi oil, so i bought a few there. I'll probably buy more tomorrow.

8:30a. Meet for Albert tours 4x4. Our tour guide was Tom, he was very good. I definately recommend this tour. It really gets u into the inner island of Moorea and the guides teach u alot of the history. Don't forget the bug spray, water, and suntan lotion!! We visited Belevedre point, a tahitian temple, vanilla and pineapple fields, a few local markets were u can get pareos and monoi oil for really cheap. We also visited a distillery were the gave samples of the tahitian liquors. I bought Pinapple liquor and Tahitian drink...they tasted the best. We got back and ate the pizzas we bought earlier from the market. We have been deperately trying to find a way to go to the famous Allo's pizza but everyone says that the price of the cab ride is double that of the darn pizza! We were gonna rent a scooter and go there and stop by local shops but we already did that on the 4x4 tour so we cancelled the scooter. We were also going to do the recommended Beachcomber tahitian Barbeque but it is $72 per person. I know we shouldn't skimp while we are here but we still have 2 more islands to do! So we made reservations at Alfredo's .

Alfredos was tasty. Good Garlic bread, margaritas, he had the shrimp in curry and coconut sauce and i had the tuna in mustard sauce(not as tender as i thought it would be) The ice cream crepes for dessert was delicious,must try! and again i had the same old Creme brulee. Service was sort of slow but we are always so sleepy by the time dinner is over that we just want to go home. When we got back we wanted to see how the Barbeque went and it was pretty sad, a million tables set up and the show was going on but there was only a small handful of people there watching...good thing we didn't do it.

9/21/03
Left for Bora Bora flight at 9:25am for the 11:15 am flight...we were so sad to be leaving Moorea and the Beachcomber. We walked around the grounds once more and sent a few more postcards as we waited for the pickup. At the Moorea airport, our luggage was too heavy again!! He had to empty some of our books and junk into the carry-ons and then we were okay. We finally boarded the Air tahiti flight to Huahine and Bora Bora. It was 30 minutes to Huahine then another 15 minutes to Bora Bora. Once in Bora Bora we were taken on the Sofitel Motu transfer boat for a 20 minute ride, when we saw Sofitel Motu we were in awe...it was gorgeous, so isolated and remote. We secretly prayed we would get our requested and highly sought after OWB #129. As soon as we stepped off the boat we were greeted by a man singing and playing his ukelele, cold towels, leis, and a fresh cocunut drink. Our group was split up and shown to the bungalows. They also immediately asked our shoe size so that they could deliver snorkels, but we said we brought our own. The staff dropped of the first couple at 123 then 124...we thought we were going to end up in 125, but she told us to walk ahead and that she would meet us at....#129!!!!! We actually got our request, the best bungalow on the Motu is ours! Sunrise and sunset views and a completely private deck. Fresh fruit and water awaited us inside the bungalow, the view is spectacular. We ate a snack at the restaurant there: $16 for his cheesburger with fries and a salad and $13 for a sandwich with tomatoes, lettuce, and feta cheese(surpriselying delicious!) We walked around the island looking for a place to swim to the coral gardens that would be closer than our bungalow but every path leading there ended. So we walked back near our bungalow and went snorkeling around the beach. Not much to see there, we'll head out to the other side tomorrow. Since it is Sunday, not many restaurants are open so our only choice for dinner are the Motu and Marara restaurants. We took the shuttle over to check out the Marara...its okay, mainly beach bungalows and a tiny pool. It has a nice bar and we looked at the dinner menus for both hotels and chose the Marara restaurant for dinner that nite. We walked over to Tiare market and bought some snacks, juice and instant soups. We watched a special pareo fashion show and had a few drinks at the bar then headed back to the Motu to shower for dinner. Dinner was good and service was very quick. I had the Shrimps in Curry sauce and he had Mahi Mahi in vanilla sauce. Both were tender and delicious, i could come back for more every night we are here! We also had the Chocolate cake which was good especially if u are a coconut fan. Sleepy and full we headed back to our bungalow and opened a bottle of red wine.( we brought 2 bottles of wine and Grey goose in our luggage)

9/22/03
The next day we wake up to watch the sunrise and wait for 8am to come so that we can try breakfast at Snack Patoti....we take the ferry and walk there but it is closed. We ask to Marara staff if they know when it opens and they say that they don't serve breakfast. Funny, as heard that they did from the Tahiti forums and from the Jan Prince Tahiti Guide book, oh well. We go back to our bungalow and have some instant soup that we bought form the market and he picks me up in a kayak at our deck and we head for the Coral Gardens. We aren't sure exactly were this magnificent place is around the island, and for a while we thought "what's the big deal??" until we figured it out. THE BEST snorkeling i have every done, the fish are gorgeous and so friendly. But the coral can get really close so watch your arms and legs. I got tired quick and the salt water was realy salty so we headed back. We then took Le truck to Vaitape Village($6 round trip) Here they had a few shops a big market pearls shops and banks. I forgot our credit card so i had limited cash and we decided to return the next day. The L' Patisserie there has good pastries and internet access for forty cents a minute. We stayed on for 18 minutes checking our mail and telling everyone that we were alive, well and in paradise. We then got ready for dinner at Bloody Marys.
We heard so much about this place and the reputation is well deserved. I had the parrot fish again and he had the Wahoo(so delicately sweet) with pacific lobster. We stayed for a few drinks and headed back. then we hung out at the Marara bar and watched dome musicians and dancers.
On the walk back to our bungalow a realized i lost my sunglasses somewhere...called Bloody Marys and the Marara bar. The Bar had them and said they would ferry it over and to pick it up in 1/2 an hour or the next morning. Sure enough they were at the Motu front desk sealed in an envelope at the Motu front desk. Excellent service.

9/23/03
Next morning we woke early for our 4x4 tour around Bora Bora booked thru the Sofitel Motu ($65 per person) We were with 2 other honeymooners that we actually ran into previously on Moorea, all from the East Coast. Bora Bora has several gorgeous panoramic viewpoints that the guide took us on. You really can't appreciate Bora Bora until you see if from those mountaintops with the different shades of blue in the water and the surrounding Coral reef. We ate fruits from local families who let our guide pick from their trees for our snack. I decided to try a Papaya, i'm not a fruit lover but i figured if i was gonna try it, here is the place to do it. It was wonderful, sweet, soft and mild perfection. The Pamplemousse (sweet grapefruit) is equally delicious. Afterwards we went to Le Bounty ( just past Tiare Market) this was not very good...the meat in his burger was questionable and my pizza was basically cheese soup on top of a very thin pizza and after picking at it i found a mosquito dead in the cheese...gross. The prices were very cheap though. Went to Tiare Market once more for some snacks. Then we waited for Le Truck to go back to Viatape village to pick up some souveniers for our families (very expensive!) We ate at L'patisserie which had delicious Vanilla and pinapple sorbet ( i had 2!)Tonight we ate at Fare Manuai, supposedly the favorite restaurants of the local (i ached for more of the delicous and cheap Snack Patoti but reluctantly went.) Here i ate some fish with mashed potatoes and fish soup and he had the shrimp & mahi mahi dumplings. We weren't that thrilled with the food, wish we had gone to Patoti. =o( We went back to pack. Our time in Bora Bora seemed so short, i guess because of the transit flights and tranfers. I was sad to leave once again. The service at the Sofitel Motu is superb, the bungalows are gorgeous but they could be a little cleaner...the bed covers seemed damp and the floor slightly sticky...other than that it was fine. I also loved free pareo and tshirt(Beachcomber in Moorea also did this for us)

9/24/03
Picked up at the dock by boat to heat for airport ro Raiatea. The staff bid us farewell with their songs and another shell lei. It was heartbreaking. 15 minute flight to Raiatea...immediately greeted by The Tahaa Pearl Beach rep and brought to a boat. The boat ride was 30 minutes but they handed us a pamphlet with activities so that u can read it during the trip. We saw some dolphins jumping out of the water and the guide told us that its rare to see them do that. Met at Pearl Beach dock by the entire staff, leis, blue curacao cocktail, flower crown for the women and whisked away to the lobby and bungalow very quickly. There was one couple with us that had to wait for their room but the managers were overly apologetic and offered them some vouchers and lunch.(even though check in is really at 1pm and it was only 10:15!) I got bungalow #15 (seriously ANY bungalow will be perfection...no need to request one or another...i requested # 9 but i'm not mad at all) The bungalow is indescribable. I have read it explained in detail on these tahiti boards but never appreciated it until i saw it. The huge bed, the decor...THE BATHROOM!!!! ahhh...soaking tub, dual modern sink, shower and toilet . There is huge closet space and a wonderful couch with a huge picture window in front with a perfect view of Tahaa. This room is IMMACULATE- cleaned as if no one ever stayed here before. There is a table at the end of the bed made of glass to see below...little do we know, that table is a door...it opens up so u can feed the fish! The deck has a covered eating area with a fan and the most comfortable deck chairs ever ( they adjust your head and under your knees with the softest cushions.) I immediately inquired about booking excursions because i heard that they book quickly. The only one we want to do it the day trip to Raiatea but it is $188 per person and it is the FULL day, we would miss all the sun! This is our last island so we really want to relax, not sit in a jeep or boat all day touring. But i did want to go to the pearl farm and maybe buy a pearl for cheaper. Oh well. We were also gonna do the guided snorkeling ($20/ person) but we realized it would be more fun to explore on our own. All we booked was a canoe breakfast and Dual massages in our Bungalow. We then went out to the beach and pool. The Horizon pool is gorgeous...not huge but very clean with water falling over the edge making it look like it leads to the ocean. The hammocks are strategically placed for great pictures. The water in the pool and beach is the perfect temperature. We lay around lazily then ate lunch poolside (Mahi Mahi burger sooo good and vanilla ice cream and pinapple sorbet-my new favorite dessert) We then walked around the entire grounds. We wanted to check out the garden bungalows but they are so enclosed that i can't get a good idea of what it really looks like. We walk out to the tiny island across from our beach and hang out there then sit by the pool reading and snoozing.

Dinner at Chez Louise. Picked up by boat and brought the the main island. At the dock we are met by a lady with no shoes and realize that it is Louise our chef. She takes us into her van and then to her modest little restaurant. There she sits us down with drink then leaves us for a while. No menu here--u get what she cooks. When she finally comes out it is with long plates made of bamboo- filled with the tastiest and most succulent seafood we have had yet! Rice, bread, Poison Cru, Mahi Mahi, Shrimps in Curry, Lobster in butter sauce. We pig out and get our hands dirty finishing every last piece. She comes by and asks us if we want another lobster and that she won't charge us. For Dessert Caramel ice cream and Coffee. Seconds of the ice cream if u want, the guy next us had thirds and fourths!! When we got the bill she handed the ladies a black pearl (an oddly shaped one but i still love it and the gesture)
and the bill (we were worried about how much it costs) only $98! no extra charge for the extra lobster and ice cream. I gave her a 20 % tip because she was so entertaining and then she gave me another odd shaped black pearl. She even emptied our plates into the water by her pier to feed her "babies"- ten puffer/balloon fish that she feeds every night. She took us back o the dock and gave us a hug. We may just be back tomorrow! Especially since the food at the resort is pretty expensive. (The Prixe Fixe dinners are around $145 per person). Off to bed.

I awake for the sunrise and watch it on our deck as i let him snooze. It is pretty windy today. We anxiously await our 8:15 canoe breakfast that they bring to you on your deck. It is so windy that the poor lady has a hard time balancing the tray but it ends up fine. We asked for breakfast for ONE because i heard that it is plenty for 2 people. But earlier they called us to confirn if we wanted coffe or juice and they misunderstood and sent us TWO breakfasts- but what can we say??? That makes is a $100 breakfast! Oh well, we pack some pastries up after breakfast and save it for the next day. Then we go out by the pool to claim some seats. There aren't alot of them so we wanted to get there early. i read and slept and dipped in the pool while he went to find the pull up bars to do a short morning workout(they are near the tennis courts) Soon it is time for our Massages in the bungalow ($180 for 2 people) The staff come and bring 2 massage tables and ask if we want it inside or outside on the deck. We choose inside because of the hot sun and wind but keep the sliding door fully wide open so hear the sounds. We played a slow CD as they gave us a wonderful swedish massage ( i asked her to be a bit more firm but she didn't really listen) Soon it was over and we headed back to our chairs by the pool for more lazy time. It got more and more windy and a bit cloudy so we ate lunch (Mahi Mahi Burgers again) they went back to the room to lounge around. It was too windy to snorkel.

After our Bubble bath we got ready for dinner at the the resorts Vanilla restaurant, which is a la carte. The other restaurant is Prixe Fixe the menu looked weird and it was like $145 / person. It was raining hard when we walked to the restaurant so we used the umbrellas provided. The menu at Vanilla was weird alot of Duck Foie Gras (liver). He got the mahi mahi in vanilla sauce again to be safe. I tried the Fish Fillets in pesto and Balsamic--it was fabulous only it was a very small portion but enough for me to fit dessert. The desserts there are good. Dinner cost $100.

The next morning we awake saddened with strong winds,overcast and some rain which gradually allowed some sun to peek thru at times that we anxiously awaited on the comfy deck chairs. When it seemed like the sun was shining thru we ran to the pool and claimed some chairs then headed to the coral gardens for some snorkeling that was just as good, if not better than the snorkeling at the Sofitel Motu. And the water was not deep so i didn't need the life vest. Once again the fish were gorgeous rainbows of color and were not at all afraid to swim up to u and stare u in the face. i loved it here. Back to the poolside restaurant for the delicious Mahi Mahi burgers. Tonight we are going back to Chez Louise for our last dinner in Tahaa...and perhaps i will go back to the Vanilla restaurant for some creme brulee tonight.

Louise was wonderful again. Tonight she had a choice of the same seafood meal or Chinese food. We had the seafood again because it was SO good. At the end of the dinner I told her I was too full and sleepy for dessert and she insisted we have some Papaya(sooo yum) and then gave me more local fruits, more weird shaped pearls, AND she walked me over to her Pareo display and told me to pick one NO CHARGE!!! So sweet!! (I bought 2 on the other islands and they were $30 each!!) Definitely go there!!

Our last day our flight wasnt til later in the evening. We took advantage of the day and hung out by the pool, had our final Mahi Mahi burgers and Sorbets. And sadly boarded the boat. When we checked out, the manager said they are raising the prices next year and are merging with another company and will now be called Le Tahaa I told him that we will see him very soon. The staff there was excellent, everyone we came in contact with new our names. I love this place.

My Two Cents on Tahiti:

-After staying at Sofitel Motu in Bora Bora then Pearl Beach Tahaa- i think a may have skipped Bora Bora altogether. Moorea and Tahaa were beautiful enough. Maybe because we seemd so rushed in Bora Bora.

-Tahaa Pearl Beach was worth every penny the most romantic and luxurious place to stay. But the food is expensive.

-we did get bitten by Mosquitos, although we didn't really use OFF every day and night, but the bites didn't bother us as long as we rubbed cortisone on them. (we carried the cortisone everywhere)

-The seafood almost everywhere is fantastic...you MUST try Mahi Mahi Vanilla Sauce and Shrimps in Coconut curry sauce somewhere( its on practically every menu)

- Dinner is always $100-$140 each night

-Snack Patoti in Bora Bora is SOO worth it.

- do the 4x4 in Moorea thru Alberts Tours
-Bring your own snorkel gear...if only because it is more sanitary

-You DO NOT need alot of clothes. We read this over and over but of course we overpacked and as a result the luggage was to heavy (but it was probably our wine and vodka and the library of books we brought that we barely read, i only read 3) Girls, you can just wear a pareo and flip flops everywhereduring the day. And maybe some shorts and tanks for the 4x4'soh and a sweater for nighttime and possibly one pair of pants in case it rains.

-the flight to tahiti is long..take a benadryl or Tylenol PM and sleep til u get there.

- They never serve coffee WITH dessert, it always comes AFTER dessert and its tiny.

-souvenirs are EXPENSIVE

-The excursions got more expensive with each island. If your are gonna to the Shark/stingray feeding and motu picnic, do it in Moorea with Albert Tours (much less expensive compared to Tahaa) (its like $100/ person on Tahaa and $60/ person on Moorea)


- I haven't decided if the pearls are worth it. I was planning on buying one at home for cheaper thru a friend but it takes awayzz from the whole memory of "buying it while u were experiencing Tahiti" and there are so many more colors to choose from here in Tahiti then in Fortunoff. Maybe i will buy one in Papeete.

PS. I bought a pearl in the Papeete airportIm a sucker..but I wanted it for the memories!

Good luck!






tahitilover
New Jersey USA - Thursday, October 02, 2003 at 22:24:04 (EDT)
9/19/03 Air NZ overnight flight to Papeete
3 nights Tahaa Pearl Beach Resort & Spa
3 nights Hotel Bora Bora

We had a fabulous time in French Polynesia celebrating our 10th wedding anniversary. I wouldn't change our intinerary in anyway, unless it could be to extend our time in Bora Bora.

We flew Air NZ overnight from LA, arriving in Tahiti at 2:30am and caught a 6:00 am flight to Raiatea, where we were transferred to the Pearl Beach Resort off the Island of Tahaa. This resort is truly beautiful and the OWB's are gorgeously appointed. We stayed in #48 with a Moana View and loved it. We could almost see the sunset from our big front window and had a lovely view of a little beach and a little ocean. This is a great resort to stay at if you want peace and relaxation. Some of the excusions were hard to book through the hotel because of the minimum number required for some tours. However, the two we went on were worth the money.

We took Dave's overland safari and toured the island of Tahaa, stopping at a vanilla plantation, pearl farm, and a gorgeous lookout point where Dave and his cousin sang, danced, demonstrated how to open up and shave coconuts, and several ways to tie pareos. (Made for some great video) The second excursion we went on was the shark and ray feeding tour. It was good, but in hindsight I wish we had waited until Bora Bora to do this one. The water at TPB is nothing special to snorkel in--didn't see many fish, just mostly sandy bottom. It didn't even compare to the water in Bora Bora.

We loved the breakfast buffet at the resort--I'm definitely having withdrawals from all the french pastries. We also ate in the Gourmet restaurant our last night there. It was fabulous and well worth the money!!! Also one night we went over to the main island and ate at Louise's. We didn't have a choice in the menu that night, but the assorted dished she made were all wonderfull. She also had pareos, soap and oils for sale that were much cheaper than at the resort. We also had the most divine vanilla ice cream! It's hard to imagine just thinking of plain, vanilla ice cream we're used to here. It is not even in the same category. This was by far the most amazing icecream I've tasted anywhere!

The staff at the resort was OK, but mostly french speaking and hard to understand (like the waitstaff at the pool restaurant.) The most helpful people were Eric and Patricia at the front desk who helped us book our excusrions and answer any questions we had.

My favorite part of the trip however was staying at the Hotel Bora Bora. The staff there is so friendly, professional and genuinely glad to have you there. We were met at the dock by the general manager, Lionel, and several guest relations representatives. They welcomed us with cool, scented towels and glasses of champagne. Then each couple had their own representative to guide us through check-in and show us to our bungalows. This time we chose a superior beach bungalow. We were on the Matira Beach side and had a truly spectacular view of the lagoon and a nice breeze coming through our front sitting room windows. (We also had air-conditioning)The rooms were very nice (not quite as gorgeous as TPB)and had a bowl of fresh fruit and liter bottles of water, which they replenished every day. (Unlike TPB where you had to buy expensive bottles out of the mini-bar, at the restaurants, or try to venture into one to the little villages on the main island--which we didn't.)

The water and lagoons in Bora Bora were beyond compare. Just right off the beach the water was deep and had huge coral formations that drew tons of colorful fish. The Hotel Bora Bora was the first hotel/resort built on the island and they definitely chose the prime spot on the island. We saw the same kinds of fish swimming off our beach for free that we saw on two different paid excursions. Although we did do some fun ones. We went on an aqua-safari helmut dive. It looks funny, but it's fun for non-scuba divers. We also went horseback riding at Ranch Reva Reva--absolutely gorgeous view of both the island of Bora Bora (the ranch is on a motu) and the Pacific Ocean from the other side of the motu. And really nice horses for us non-experienced riders. We also went on a motu BBQ picnic, which included lots of great snorkeling. HBB also has a great massuese (sp?)who gave me the best massage I've ever had!

The first night at HBB (a Tuesday) they had their weekly manager's cocktail party on the beach. They served great snacks and complementary drinks (champagne, wine, beer, soda, etc) while the guests and staff mingled and got to know each other. Great start to our visit. The next night was the weekly Beach BBQ and Polynesian Show. It was also a great experience with a fabulous spread of food (steak, ribs, roasted pork, shrimp, lobster--you name it, they had it--as well a a huge assortment of salad and desserts.) The show was great also with music and dancing--especially the fire dancers.

When it was time for us to leave Bora Bora, Beatrice helped us make dinner reservations at a fabulous French Bistro in Papeete (Le Rubis)to kill some time on Friday night before our middle of the night flight back to the states. We had a lovely send off at the dock. Lionel passed around tissues to comfort us in our sad departure, and he and the staff stood on the pier and waved to us until our boat was out of sight. Our whole stay was a truly magical experience. If we ever go back to French Polynesia, I couldn't imagine staying anywhere else.
Michelle Moy
Lincoln, NE - Thursday, October 02, 2003 at 11:57:40 (EDT)

Great trip. The Hotel Kaveka is very budget - be forewarned. We were prepared for it to be a cut above camping and made the most of it. There is a good snorkeling reef at the hotel but the beach and water are not as beautiful as the more expensive resorts. Frankly we went on day trips almost all days and didn't spend much time there so the price was right!
I highly recommend doing the Manta Ray & Shark Feeding Tour. The amount of sea life you see is awesome. Also do the tour with Dr. Michale Poole - the marine biologist stationed there he does tours on Sunday and Thursday). It was whale season (July-Oct) and we spent a couple of hours with 3 Humpback Whales and even got to snorkel with them! This was a once in a lifetime experience! He'll also take you out to cavort with the spinner dolphins.
If you prefer a better hotel I would recommend the Beachcomber (very nice beach and lagoon) and the Sofitel. I was not as impressed with the beaches at Moorea Pearl or Sheraton.
Everyone we spoke to said Moorea is the most dramatically beautiful of the Tahitian Islands. Better than Bora Bora which has hotels every 30 meters and has just become a tourist island.
If you would like more details on anything I've mentioned, feel free to email me. Have a great time!


Cindy <clsuess@sbcglobal.net>
San Rafael, CA US - Monday, September 29, 2003 at 15:46:42 (EDT)
Sorry, Computer messed up
Huahine - As always great - Te Tiare staff is excellent and everyone in Huahine is fantastic. Did a Jet Ski Trip with Marc and had a lot of fun. Did a motu picnic as well with excellent food for lunch on the motu and some music. A great deal - Also, did the shark feeding as well but wasnt all to impressed with it. I have done it a few times, you seen one you seen them all. If you havent done one it is worth the experience.
Taha'a - An awsome resort - Probably the best in FP today. Great OW rooms with a lot of details in comfort and room decor. Large deck and a little cabana. The Beach bungalow are bigger and just as nice. The food and service here is great. A little expensive so if you just want to snack bring your own. Good snorkeling around by the pool, good coral heads and an abundant amount of fish. The snorkeling off the OW's is not so good, mostly a sand bottom. I did see eagle rays and sting rays from the deck. Wife did the spa and said it was good. Pool is very nice and the restaurant and bar is very very nice. A great place to relax and get away from everything.
Moorea - Stayed at the Pearl - I have been here several times and I like the property but its getting way to kiddy for me. Had to be at least 5 families with kids from babies to 5 years old. A lot of noise and crying. Dont get me wrong I love kids but when I go to Tahiti without my children, I dont want to hear someone elses at 5:30 a.m. crying. Also, the general staff was very good but the reservations manager who use to be at the old Bali Hai is awful. She has the same bad attitude she had years back. And from what I understand her father is a great guy. Not sure what its all about with her but she treated us like dirt. We where suppose to be in a Beach bungalow and they upgraded us to an OW bungalow 401 -
The worst bungalow at the resort. Its right on top of the public dock so you A) hear noise all night and day B) get exhaust fumes in your room from the boats on the dock and C) you can not go into the water since there is too much boat traffic. So we asked to switch, she stated no its a free upgrade. I stated I would rather have the beach bungalow I reserved and not the upgrade she told me "too bad, thats all we have, you should be happy with the upgrade" Since it was the weekend and we could not switch to the Sheraton or the Beachcomber we stayed in a deluxe garden. Very nice but a lot of road noise and the kids which where staying in the hotel portion. Aww the old Bali Hai comes to haunt me again.
Good food at Hano Iti and the Pitcairn restaurant. Saw a lot of friends and had a great time so all in all it was great. Did do the Dr Poole's excursion and did not see anything. Four hours on a boat for $140 for two was not my idea of a good time. I did have something else in mind at least we should have went snorkeling too offset the disappointment of not seeing anything. O well

All and all a great trip. Already setting up for the next one.
Pacific Andy
- Monday, September 29, 2003 at 15:19:50 (EDT)
First of all after you read a few of the other trip reports you think everyone has gone to different parts of the world. I was in Tahiti at the same time as the last poster and no Hurricane or bad weather. A few days of wind and some rain. Nothing major.
Second, I have been to Tahiti a few times so I do see it with rose color lenses but, if you expect first class service, red carpet treatment, shopping, golf and all night entertainment, its not for you. If any agent sells Tahiti to you like that you should fine another agent.
Tahiti Beachcomber - Stayed in the newer panaramic rooms - excellent, large and very comfortable. I like the Beachcomber since its close to everything. The food is so so but I like both of the pools here.
Papeete in General, its getting cleaner everytime I go and there where a lot of security and police everywhere. Good food at some of the smaller restaurants. I would take a 4x4 tour here since there is a lot to see and do. It is worth staying a few days but if your on your honeymoon just go to the other islands.
Huahine
Pacific Andy
LA, CA - Friday, September 26, 2003 at 20:37:37 (EDT)
Hi, I too just returned on ATN yesterday, and did not have the same experience with the weather as the previous poster. I was on Moorea from September 16 to September 23, and it rained only once at Moorea Village, one afternoon for two hours, and then once again briefly at night. The rest of the time was sunny and dry, with some light fluffy clouds, and breezes off the land, called the Mara'amu (sp?) this time of year, NOT hurricanes! The daytime temps were between 76 and 84, and some nights were cool enough for a light windbreaker. The land is very dry right now, and the locals are HOPING for rain soon! In the late afternoon, the water pressure gets very low from the lack of water.

It was a fast trip, but fun! I met some other posters who were also taking advantage of the ATN $340 special fare, and they loved it too. It's less crowded this time of year than June - August, and the weather is still wonderful!
BarbiJKM <BarbiJKM@aol.com>
Phoenix, AZ USA - Wednesday, September 24, 2003 at 21:19:14 (EDT)
Thanks for the report. Is there anyway you can do it without caps, It was kind of hard to read. Thanks again.
Jason
- Wednesday, September 24, 2003 at 17:31:47 (EDT)
August 22 - Sept 5 2003
Bora Bora 7 nights -Le Maitai and 6 nights Huahine -Relais Mahana

This was our 3rd trip to French Polynesia, first time to Bora Bora & Huahine.

I'm writing this report because I love reading the travel reports on this web-site.

We flew Air New Zealand. The flight over was pretty empty and we got to spread out and sleep a little. The food was good and the seats pretty comfortable--not a bad flight for 9 hours! We arrived in Tahiti to an empty airport. It was dark when we boarded our flight to Bora Bora. We arrived in Bora Bora just as the sun was starting to come up. My first impression was, "Oh my God, it is so beautiful".

We had a garden room at the Le Maitai. It was a nice room with a huge bed and air conditioning--which we needed! We tried sleeping without the air but it was too hot and with the window open all the mosquitos got in. The Le Maitai had a very friendly and helpful staff. We had to wait about an hour before we got our room. The snorkeling off the beach there was pretty good! It was a little murky but still very good with a good variety of fish, saw a barracuda and found a huge cone shell there and also some green coral was blooming--at least that is what it looked like! A cool group of Moorish Idol fish and a huge moorey eel--a really big fat one coming out of a hole in a big coral in the deep part. We spent most of our time on Bora Bora snorkeling and swimming. We took the kayaks 3 mornings over to the sofitel motu. The first time we went it was very choppy water because of the wind. I got blasted in the face with salt water and couldn't open my eyes most of the way. We found the snorkeling between the Sofitel motu and the other little motu behind it to be really good--also on the back side of the Sofitel motu the snorkeling was really good with pool like water.
We swam out to where the boats take people to snorkel and checked it out. As soon as the guides quit feeding the fish the fish left.
One day we kayaked to the other side of the farthest motu--the fish were afraid of us and the snorkeling is better between the Sofitel and the little motu behind it.

Oh Yeah, the first time we went to the motu we made it back just in time before the big down pour. It poured rain all afternoon--there was a waterfall on the hill behind our room. It rained almost everyday we were in Bora Bora but the only time it effected us was the torrential rain that one afternoon.

One day we took a walk and met Alain Despert (I think that is how his name is spelled--we went to his art gallery. He was really nice and said if the rain didn't stop he would give us a ride home when his wife got back from the vet. He showed us all his stuff--which is really cool--it was fun because we would see him around Bora Bora and say Hi Alain!

We did a 4X4 tour of Bora Bora--it was really good--our guide invited us to his house for dinner. We didn't rent a car on Bora Bora because we saw everything on the 4X4 tour and there really isn't much to Bora Bora. We biked into town one day and ate lunch at Bloody Marys and the food was not good. We didn't bike around the island as I thought I might want to because they were doing a lot of road work and there is so much traffic.

We swam at Matira beach, which is a very pretty beach and when the water would be choppy and windy in from of Le Maitai just a 5 min. walk away at matira it was a still lagoon--no wind--not much fish either but we did find a couple of species we had never seen before.
I still don't know what one of them was--maybe it was a baby lionfish.

We ate most of our meals at the beach restaraunt at the Le Maitai and at La Bounty also buying supplies at the grocery store that was really close by. The food was good.

We also did a catamaran ride around the lagoon that was really nice.
Our flight leaving Bora Bora to Huahine was at 5:30 pm and the Le Maitai allowed us to keep our room so we went to the sofitel motu for snorkeling on our last day on Bora Bora.

My thoughts on Bora Bora: I think it is over-rated. Yes, it's pretty but I think Moorea and Huahine have it beat. Every where you look on Bora Bora there are over water bungalows. I think there are to many of them and they are building a huge Ritz Carlton! We had a great time on Bora Bora but I would choose another island to vist next time.

Oh yeah, I told my husband--that is Chez No No-we almost stayed there. He said, "Good thing we didn't stay there, that is a no no!"
(A lot of water equipment, jet skis, etc. were parked right in front of the bungalows)

We left Bora Bora and were 2 of the 4 passengers to get off the plane in Huahine. They have horses behind a rope standing right next to the airport. Our driver, Willie, spoke English. He picked up a man with a fishing pole on the way to the Relais Mahana and we were also stopped by the police so Willie could breath into a bag. We clapped when he passed the test. It turned out the man he picked up was his father and he took us onto a dirt road where I thought "Where is our hotel!" We were in the jungle. He dropped his Dad off and was going to go fishing after he dropped us at the Relais. By now it was dark. On arrival at the Relais and English speaking woman gave us the rules--it felt like we were at summer camp. She was really nice but firm. She helped us to our room and we were shocked at the size of the bed and pillows--a big difference from the Le Maitai-- The Relais is comparable to the Moorea Village where we have stayed twice before.

The snorkeling at the Relais is really good!!! We saw our first Regal Anglefishs there. We spent the whole first day snorkeling the coral beside the dock. We took a 4 X4 tour of Huahine with Huahine Land, Shorty was our guide. He was great (and spoke English) and showed us everything. It was just us and a young french guy that spoke a little English on the tour. This island is beautiful. Lots of flowers and jungle. There is no way we could have seen what we did with a car-- We did an all day boat tour that included the shark swimming, motu picnic, pearl thing around the island. I wasn't impressed with the shark feeding--baby sharks, but the picnic was really good--I finally tried the poisson cru and loved it--so did my husband who ate 3 helpings! All I could think of when our boat driver handed me the plate was, on survivor they eat live worms, I can eat this. I was so shocked it was good! The only people on Huahine were french honeymooners so we had no one to talk too, except to say Bon jour. We rode bikes, that were provided at the hotel, I think 2 cars passed us in 20 minutes. We saw marijuana plants growing along with the taro, and all the flowers! I love all the plants. We ate only at the resturant at Relais, which was pretty good and pricey like Bora Bora.

We didn't have enough time on Huahine. In fact, it turned out we had to leave a day sooner than I thought-- I had paid for 6 nights in Huahine and our flight left the day before our last night there!
I'm waiting for my refund on our last night. The camp counselor lady at Relais was very nice to check with my travel agent and yes they messed up. Our flight was late in the afternoon and we were allowed to keep the room as long as we wanted. She told us all about the last typhoon that came through and wiped out all the hotels on Huahine.

The flight home was packed but we were so tired I was able to sleep.
Our flight left at 3 am. It was back to reality--calling home from LA I found out our kitchen remodel was not done and my counter tops were screwed up, the tile was not installed and cabinet doors were not on yet.

We didn't think or talk about the kitchen remodel in French Polynesia.

(My final thoughts on the 3 islands we have visited. Moorea is the most beautiful Huahine is a close second)

Kathy Desmond <sdkd@earthlink.net>
Salinas, CA USA - Wednesday, September 24, 2003 at 00:26:48 (EDT)
Tahiti Le Meridien August 25-26
Moorea Pearl Beach August 26-29
Bora Bora Le Meridien August 29 - September 1

Wonderful trip! We stayed 2 nights in Tahiti, 3 nights in Moorea and 3 nights in Bora Bora. All the hotels were great. We stayed in the regular hotel on the beach in Tahiti, then a garden bungalow in Moorea, then over water bungalow in Bora Bora. It is best to work your way up in the level of luxury when it comes to staying in the French Polynia. If you head off in Bora Bora first, everything else will be a disappointment later on. Also be sure NOT to do all the excursions in one day. Pace them out. Do one activity a day. Otherwise, you'd be bored and sunburned right away.

I loved shopping for pearls in Vaima. You have to check out the black pearls in Vaima Perles. Best place to buy high quality pearls, buy them loose and set them right there. I wasn't too impressed with Robert Wan or Sibani Perles or their salespeople.

Moorea was my favorite island. The emerald green waters is just gorgeous. Do lots of island tours there, especially go and visit the Tiki Village Tour. It is expensive, but very worth it. The dancing program was unbelievable and the Tahitian banquet they put out was just scrumtious.

My husband and I enjoyed doing water sports in Bora Bora. Be careful about sunburns from snorkling and canoeing. Very awful if you don't put 45 plus sunscreen on all day long. You'll be peeling for weeks after the honeymoon. Bora Bora is great for jet skiing and ray and shark feeding type excursion, and the view is just breathtaking. Great place to relax and take it all in.


Victoria Shia
Reston, VA USA - Thursday, September 11, 2003 at 15:33:28 (EDT)
May 24-June 1, 2003
1 Night Le Meridien Tahiti
3 Nights Le Meridien Bora Bora
3 Nights Moorea Pearl

I have to agree with many of the other posters, that everyone has a different experience in Tahiti and it is very hard to go off of other peoples thoughts, comments, etc. We were there on our honeymoon. Most of the people we met were there on their honeymoon as well.
Try to spend as little time as possible in Papeete. Its a big city, not very tourist friendly. This is the cheapest island though and if you want to get a good deal on a black pearl or souvenirs, you should do it here.

Bora Bora is gorgeous. The water is so many shades of blue, it is amazing. The Meridien in BB is over rated. OWB do NOT have A/C and there really is no breeze. The hotel was nice, but I would have expected more for $700/night. The hotel staff is friendly, but no one goes out of their way to help you. Service is slow (everywhere on the island) and the food is expensive. No matter where you go, expect to spend at least $100 for dinner. Cheeseburgers are about $25/each. But you can get a Corona for $5.00. Once you take the boat over to the main island, there really is not anything in walking distance, so you have to rent a car or hire a taxi. Both cost around $80/4 hours. Bloody Marys is fun, but its what an American would want to see in Tahiti. I liken it to a Hard Rock Caf. Top Dive was good and had great desserts. I would recommend staying at The Beachcomber or Pearl Resorts on BB. The Shark/Ray feeding was awesome. Meridien contracts out to a local company and they were a lot of fun. We bought the $130 DVD of the trip and it is worth it. BB was the most expensive island we were on. We also went to the lagoonarium and it is very similar to the shark/ray feeding, except you are just enclosed in one area.

Moorea is more commercialized than BB, but still beautiful. There are several shopping areas and restaurants within walking distance from each of the hotels. Which is a HUGE relief, because you can go and stock up on soda, fruit and snacks for your room? We enjoyed the Pearl. Everyone there was very friendly and spoke good English. The tour desk at the Pearl was very honest and did not try to force you into taking one tour over another. We did the Jeep Safari with the Inner Island Tour and we liked that. I highly recommend doing the Jeep tour in Moorea rather than BB. There is much more to see in Moorea because of the Bays and the agriculture school. We did not hear good things about the Dolphin Experienceeveryone said it was not worth the money. Alfredos is great.

Overall thoughts, comments, tips:
Bring bug spray, Imodium and any other type of medicine that you might need. Anything stronger than an aspirin needs to be purchased at the Pharmacy and their hours are not very convenient.
Everything is expensive and you get used to it. This is not the type of trip you can be on a budget.
Look into doing a cruise. I am not a fan of cruises, but the Paul Gauguin offers an option where you can stay in a hotel for a few nights and continue on the cruise. Youll see more of the islands and get to experience the feeling of French Polynesia but not have to deal with expensive food at the hotels and limited dining options. Packing up your stuff every two or three days to go to another island gets very old and you waste a lot of time sitting in the airport. You can still do all of the activities and shopping. I would seriously consider this or an all-inclusive and I am usually not an advocate of either.
Dont expect the service you receive from anyone to be exceptionally good. Tipping is not part of their culture and everything happens very slowly. You often have to ask for things 2 or 3 times before you get them. Expect each meal to take at least 1 hour. Dinner usually takes 2 hours.
My husband is a scuba diver and he had a great time diving. The visibility is amazing and there are so many different types of fish, it is amazing. They take fish down, so you really attract a lot of different types of sea life.
You are not ever going to be secluded. There is a constant influx of new guests at the hotel and people visiting from the cruise ship or other resorts.

Overall its a great place, and probably a once in a lifetime experience. But it is a third world country and things are not modernized. Dont expect to go there and experience all the comforts of an American hotel or a modernized culture.

Colleen Johnson <cnielsen4@aol.com>
Chicago, IL USA - Tuesday, September 09, 2003 at 13:56:02 (EDT)
We left for Tahiti Aug 28, arrived Papeete almost 10PM, stayed at the Sheraton that night which was very nice. Had breakfast over the water the next morning and watched fish right under us while we ate - and a breathtaking view! Then off to Moorea on the ferry at noon and over to Moorea Village Hotel where we stayed for the next 8 days. It is a very simple place, very nice people who run it and very quiet. A great location too. We got unpacked and changed to bathing suits and went out on the beach immediately. We had a beach bungalow so we were 3 steps from the sand! We had 4 days of meal plans so ate at MVH for the next 4 nights for dinner and breakfast. The breakfasts were fine and would recommend them on the patio overlooking the ocean. Dinner food was very average - spaghetti and hambergers being the best on the menu really! We walked to the stores at La Petit Village almost every day, ate dinners other days at Le Motu near the village - very good, great service and the people are very nice. We ate one night at Iguana Cafe there also, and it was pretty good but Le Motu much better to us. The ATM machine there worked both times for us and also the change machine worked, changed US to CFP but was costly. Use credit cards whenever you can for the best rate! We rented a scooter one day and rode around the entire Island. My husband had never driven one before but we had no trouble and it was great fun - we saw things much better that way! We also did a 4 x 4 safari trip which was worth it especially at the beginning of the trip so you get a feel for the people and the island somewhat. We went to the Moorea Black Pearl shop and I got a very nice pearl for my birthday! I am not a 'Pearl' person but they really grow on you! We checked out a few other resorts while there - always fun to walk around them. We went on the free boat trip over to the Motu many days to snorkel - wonderful. The most clear water you can imagine. Drank MaiTai's on the beach, read some books and just enjoyed the beautiful sunsets. Lived in bathing suits and pareo's. On our way back, checked our luggage into the storage area at the airport parking lot and took Le Truck to Papeete, went to the market then walked around town a bit. That was an interesting experience, tons of traffic in Papeete! Then back to airport and had a very smooth trip home. We only had rain the whole time for one day and that was for about an hour. We enjoyed all the animals around and Choki the beach dog at Moorea Village adopted us while we were there. We had a very relaxing, peaceful, trip and it is more beautiful than any of the Hawaiian Islands we have been to (4) and we think the water is more clean than the Caribbean also and even easier to snorkel in the Lagoons which are beautiful. Almost undescribable! We hope to return again some day!!!
Beth
Tucson, AZ USA - Tuesday, September 09, 2003 at 11:25:12 (EDT)
Hi
Denise
- Sunday, August 24, 2003 at 01:00:02 (EDT)
August 10-14 Moorea Beachcomber
August 14-18 Bora Bora Beachcomber
August 19-20 Tahiti Beachcomber

Air Tahiti Nui -- Had great flights. We found the coach seats very comfortable, but can see if you are very tall that they will be uncomfortable. Movies, games kept us occupied. Socks they provided came in very handy and the food was actually really good.

Moorea -- We loved the Beachcomber! We had emailed them a couple of months ago requesting 514 and got it. By far the best overwater bungalow there. Fully overwater, very private deck -- no neighbors, great view of the sunrise. Nice bungalows, very comfortable, great snorkling off our deck! Staff was very pleasant and attentive. Went to the Helene Spa -- excellent massages and we also did the fresh flower bath and it was great! Did the Dolphin encounter -- AWESOME! There is a great pizza place (Miss Pizza) right outside the resort (Excellent chocolate crepes!) and a supermarket real close by (less than 10 minute walk) where we got beer and water and snacks. Breakfast was good, you get tired of the buffet breakfasts after a while. Ate at both restaurants -- both very good. Plenty of places to lay in the sun. We didn't go to the pool at all. If you go to the motu to snorkel, go in the morning -- more fish to see. Went on the interior tour with Albert Tours. William, our guide, was awesome and it was only US$25. Great time. Tiki Village was fun -- good show, not good food. But an experience you have to do.

Bora Bora -- Loved the Beachcomber here too. We booked an overwater horizon bungalow. When they walked us to our room, they put us in bungalow 11 -- not what I would consider a "horizon" view, instead you faced a mountain on Bora Bora. Asked to be changed and 10 minutes later we were in a new bungalow -- #20 with a view of the motu and the horizon. Much better. Bungalows were nice, decks were big, great view from your bedroom. Lagoon there is beautiful. Smaller grounds than in Moorea, but still loved it. Restaurant was very good -- great chocolate cake for desert. Did the private candlelight dinner on the beach -- excellent, we had a perfect night and the food was great! Did the shark/ray feeding. It rained, but didn't matter -- it was great anyway! Great snorkling! Went to Bloody Marys -- our favorite meal on the trip. Great atmoshpere and food! You do have to tip here. Went into the village. Beachcomber drove us and picked us up 1 1/2 hours later -- perfect amount of time, you don't need anymore than that. Not much there, but there is a supermarket so you can stock up on beer and snacks, and mostly touristy shops for souveniers. We were sad to leave Bora Bora. Best place to blow up some rafts and just lay in the lagoon off your overwater bungalow. Not good snorkling off the overwater bungalows (Moorea was much better) but you can take a kyack over to the motu and find some good snorkling there. Staff very nice, quickly fixed any little mistakes they had made(they were minor).

Tahiti -- Stayed at the Beachcomber here too in a motu overwater bungalow -- big dissapointment after Moorea and Bora Bora. They needed to be updated BAD and they smelled musty. Lagoon is not even close to Moorea or Bora Bora. Grounds were nice, pools were cool. This is really the only place we were bothered by a lot of bugs, especially on the deck to our bungalow. Our room key didn't work a couple of times and we had to walk back to the front desk so they could reactivate it. Restaurat (Tiare) was really good. Breakfast was the best on all the islands. Dinner was good. We tried to make reservations on our own for Le Belvedere, but they only spoke french. There are activities desks that have packages there -- go through them. We took Le Truck to Papeete and left after an hour -- not great shopping and the roulettes (spelling?) don't open until 6pm. A lot of restaurants are closed Monday night and that was the only night we were there for dinner. Didn't have an interest in doing any tours on Tahiti. We won't stay there at all next time. We'd rather visit the atolls.

We loved our honeymoon and had an amazing time. I would absolutely recommend the Beachcombers in Moorea and Bora Bora. Maybe stay at the Sheraton in Tahiti -- we heard it was pretty nice. We are glad we did those two islands. They are two totally different experiences and we can't really say which was our favorite in terms of activites, but Bora Bora is so beautiful, but they also have a lot more resorts than Moorea and you can see them from the deck of your bungalow (the lights along the shore). In Moorea all we saw was lagoon.

We know we return one day. We will go to Bora Bora again. We probably won't go back to Moorea, we'd like to try Huahine or Tahaa. But we will absolutely go back.
Denise & Kevin
- Sunday, August 24, 2003 at 00:57:50 (EDT)
Our two-week honeymoon to paradise began on July 13th from the east coast. We arrived in LAX at about 11:20am and made our connection to the 1:00pm ATN with no problems. We checked our bags all the way through and rather than wait for the airport shuttle we made the 10 minute walk to the Tom Bradley Terminal. There were absolutely no lines and we even had time for duty free and ended up waiting at the gate to board our plane. The ATN flight went by very fast thanks to the individual entertainment offerings. We had five movies to choose from and a selection of games including a trivia game where you play against the other passengers. We ate twice and the food and service were both good. We arrived into Papeete at about 6:30pm and got our luggage and went to Air Moorea to catch our flight to Moorea. We had a tough time finding the gate because we weren’t expecting it to be outside of the Air Tahiti Nui terminal and no one really gave us a straight answer. We finally spotted the signs and followed them outside to the check-in gate. We got our tickets and boarded the plane for the quick flight to Moorea. After arriving in Moorea we went to Albert Tours desk where we pre-arranged a transfer to our hotel by e-mail for $5 pp. We checked into the Sheraton Moorea were we received fresh pineapple juice and to our pleasant surprise were upgraded from a beach bungalow to OWB #104. After a long day we ordered some room service and went to bed.

The second day we hung around the hotel and did some snorkeling and floated in front of our bungalow on the rafts we brought from home. We also went to the spa for a coffee scrub and massage. After carrying all those bags and flying all that way, it was exactly what we needed. We had lunch and dinner right at the hotel.

On day three the weather wasn’t so great so we did some pearl shopping at the Black Pearl Gem Company. It took me a long time to decide on something but my husband was unusually patient. I think it may have had something to do with Hinanos they kept giving him. Overall, our experience here was great and we were able to take advantage of their free shuttle, which allowed us time for lunch at the Iguana Caf where we enjoyed some cheeseburgers and Hinanos. We also went to the grocery store and bought some drinks and snacks to take back to the hotel. After lunch and shopping, it was back to the Black Pearl Gem Company to get the free shuttle back to our hotel. That night we had dinner at Le Mahogany, which we would highly recommend and they do offer a free transportation from the Sheraton.

On day four we did the Albert Tours Jeep Tour. This was a great tour and included stops at an eel feeding spot, the distillery, Belvedere Lookout, pineapple plantation, a waterfall, and pretty much around the whole island. After hiking to the waterfall, which was definitely a highlight, we had a fruit picnic. The fruit was amazing and we would highly recommend this tour. We heard of other tour companies not letting people hike to the waterfall but if you can it’s really worth it. That night we ate dinner at Ti Hono Iti. We had the snails in puff pastry, which were excellent, and I had the Shrimp Provencal, which I would also recommend. My husband had a chicken dish that he didn’t like because it wasn’t chicken breast like you would expect in the US. The service here was extremely slow and although the restaurant provided free transportation on the way home, on the way there it was $5pp.

Day five consisted of a fishing trip for my husband with Chris Lilley. He has been on quite a few fishing trips in different parts of the world and found the fishing here only ok. I stayed at the hotel and relaxed and he said he wished he had done the same. That afternoon we went scuba diving with Top Dive. We decided on a refresher course because we got certified about a year ago and haven’t gone diving since. The dive was great and we were able to buy a package of 10 dives for both Moorea and Bora Bora right at the Sheraton. For dinner we went to Alfredo’s. The food was food was good and we really enjoyed the garlic bread. They also had live music so that was fun too.

On day six we did the shark and stingray tour with Maco. This was one of the best days of our trip. We had to contact Maco directly because when we asked the Sheraton about this tour they said he was no longer running it. Obviously, they must not get a commission from him. The tour was so amazing and included a great lunch and Hinanos. The staff was great and we really can’t say enough about this tour. We finished the day with the second half of our spa package. We both had exotic facials, which were so relaxing and then went back to our room and ordered room service for dinner and enjoyed some mixed drinks on our deck. We brought two bottles of liquor with us and bought many kinds of fresh juice in town and made our own drinks just about every night. This was great because it saved us money and there were many times when we didn’t even feel like leaving our room to get a drink.

On day seven we did a shark dive with Top Dive. It was incredible. We saw many varieties of fish, black tip sharks, moray eels, and a sea turtle. It was a great dive. That night we once again stayed at the hotel but we actually left the room and had drinks and appetizers at the bar and watched the dinner show. We thought the show was pretty good but heard mixed reviews about the buffet.

On day eight we had an 8:30am flight to Bora Bora. We arranged a ride to the airport through the Sheraton for $5.50pp. We got to the airport checked our bags (which were definitely way over weight but fortunately we were never charged) and waited to board our plane. When it was time to board we sat on the left side of the plane and had a nice view of Bora Bora. On our arrival we went to the Bora Bora Nui desk where they checked our names and took care of all of our baggage. We boarded the boat and where at the Nui in no time. Upon check-in we received fresh juice and a moist towel scented with tiare. To our surprise we were also once again upgraded from a beach bungalow to an OWB. We had room 325, which is the perfect side to be on. It is the sunset side and there is much less wind on that side. This hotel is amazing! We thought the Sheraton Moorea was really nice but these hotels are in two separate leagues. The Nui’s rooms are huge and the bathrooms are so luxurious. You can even feed the fish from the bathtub. The 10,000 square foot infinity pool is even hard to imagine. And the best part was for almost the whole week, we had the hotel to ourselves. Apparently the President of France had reserved several rooms during that week but only ended up coming for lunch on our last day, so the hotel was only about 30% full. After checking in, we just relaxed at the hotel and walked around and checked everything out.

On day nine we did two dives with Top Dive. The first dive was the manta ray dive. We saw about 3 or 4 manta rays, which were much bigger than we expected. The visibility was good but we were hoping to see more rays. Our second dive was our best dive of the entire trip. It was a shark dive were we saw many black tips and lemon sharks. We also saw a Napoleon fish. The instructor took me right up to the Napoleon fish and I was able to feed and touch it. It was definitely a highlight. I can’t believe how huge they are. We ate lunch in Vaitape right near were the boats pick you up to take you to the hotels. It was in a row of tiny restaurants and I think it was called Mama Poria. It was clear we were the only tourists there but everyone was very nice and the Chow Mein was excellent, as were the prices. For dinner we went to Bloody Mary’s with a group of honeymooners we met on our jeep tour in Moorea. It was fun and the food was good. We were expecting Hard Rock Caf in Bora Bora and that is exactly what we got.

On day eleven we were suppose to the shark and stingray tour with Johnny but the weather wasn’t good so he never came to pick us up. We took advantage of the bad weather and used the hotels free internet access to e-mail our friends and family at home. We spent the day at the hotel. The food at the Nui is very good. The cheeseburgers and fries were expensive but tasted so great with the Hinanos. It was also on day eleven that we found out the breakfast buffet was included with our room. We just went to the front desk and asked and they said it was. I think it is included with all the rooms. The buffet was fabulous- the best banana pancakes ever, eggs any style, fruit, cookies, croissants, bacon, sausage etc. For dinner that night we went to Hotel Bora Bora. It was ok but the prices were high and the portions were small.

On day twelve we decided to book the stingray and shark tour with Matira tours. I think it was $65 pp and was a full day tour including lunch. It was a much better deal than the tour the Nui offered. We booked the tour with another couple from our hotel and when the 60-person boat came to pick us up we thought we were just first but it turned out we were the only ones! This tour was definitely one of our best days. The guides were great and even made us a Tahitian lunch, which was as good as any of the other meals that we had on our trip. This tour is well worth the money and comes highly recommended. That night we went to dinner at Snack Sasha’s. It is a small inexpensive local restaurant with great food. We were served a big salad and a tuna dish with vegetables and rice. We also had some drinks and I think the total bill was under $30. Sasha invited us to join his family and friends and we had a great time with all of them. When we told Sasha we were on our honeymoon he came out with a bunch of tiares and put my hair up and put all of the flowers in it. He puts up many of the brides hair for weddings and wanted to do mine as well. It was a great night and if you are looking for a great way to experience the local culture try Snack Sasha!

On day thirteen we never left the Nui. We relaxed at the beach and pool.

On day fourteen we did two more dives with Top Dive. The first dive was good but a bit rough. The highlight of this day was our second dive where we saw a humpback whale. It was from a distance but still very cool! That night we went to the dinner buffet and show at the Nui. We really enjoyed the show and the food, and thought it was worth the money. On the evenings of the show they have a “meet the managers party” where they serve drinks and munchies. We enjoyed getting to know one of the managers and found the entire staff to be very friendly and helpful.

On day fifteen we again enjoyed the pool and beach at the Nui. For dinner it was back to Snack Sasha for their big buffet. It was about $25pp and well worth it. We really enjoyed it here.

On day sixteen we spent the morning and early afternoon watching the festivities as Jacques Chirac arrived at the hotel. Then it was back to the room to very sadly pack our bags. Fortunately, since the hotel wasn’t full we were able to get a late check out. We slept almost the entire trip home so needless to say it went by very quickly and fortunately without problem. After being spoiled in paradise for two weeks we are very slowly getting use to our normal everyday lives and can’t wait to make it back to paradise! I used this board so much in planning our trip and just want to thank you all for your great advice and suggestions.


Michele and Matt <mmanosh@aol.com>
RI USA - Monday, August 18, 2003 at 13:37:18 (EDT)
My wife and I went on our honeymoon June 8 - 20. We spent our first night at The Beachcomber in Tahiti. We just had a regular room but it was very nice, the breakfast there was excellent and their grounds were very nice as well.

We then went to Tahaa to the Pearl Beach Resort and stayed in a beach bungalow for four nights. They are truly amazing and quite large (truly what a honeymoon suite should be). The resort is gorgeous and the service is first class all the way. We dove with Blue Nui dive center located on the resort and the were also first class.

We then spent 6 nights on Moorea again at the Pearl resort. We were upgraded to a deluxe OWB (#426 the best one at the resort) and couldn't have been more pleased. We mostly ate outside of the resort (the resort food was good but not special at all) finding great snack restaurants for breakfast or lunch, and eating dinner at The Plantation (my favorite), Le Sud (Wen's favorite), Le Pechuer, and Alfredos. We dove with Moorea Blue located at the resort and Rafael that ran it was a great guide.

One of the only vacations either of us did not want to go home from. FP was great and I'd go again in a heart beat and I'd stay at the same places in a heartbeat too.

If you want to see my pictures and a day-by-day account of the trip goto http://yllams.brinkster.net

Jon & Wen

(Yves-Thanks for the great site, we learned lots here before going)
Jon & Wendy <jon_d@mailcity.com>
Cleveland, OH USA - Thursday, August 14, 2003 at 10:44:09 (EDT)
We spent from6/30 to 7/27 as first time visitors to French Polynesia. Everyone has covered Papeete, Moorea and Bora Bora. We would make two definite restaurant recommendations. In Bora Bora it would be Fare Manuia just outside the Intercontinental-Beachcomber and in Moorea Le Pecheur on Cooks Bay and provides free transportation to and back from most hotels. Both are top notch.

The best part of our trip was the 16 days we spent on the passenger/cargo ship Aranui 3. We had Suite E which has the largest balcony and best view of the daily cargo loading and unloading. This ship offers cabins and dorm beds in all price ranges and food, wine and daily shore excursions are included. The ship has a pool,bar, lounge and sun deck as well as multilingual guides and on board lecturer.
We visited the atolls of Takapoto and Fakarava where we swam and snorkeled ( ship has gear) and visited the pearl farms. Pearls bought from farmers are so reasonable and comparing a pearl I bought in Moorea for $800 and a $40 one bought at a farm demonstrates the mark up. Most of the itinerary is visiting the Marquesa Islands. Once you have seen the beauty of these mountains emerging from the sea, been welcomed by its people with, fruit, flowers and dance, hiked or ridden 4x4 's to ancient ceremonial sites, arrived on shore in whale boats and swam in pristine bays, Moorea and Bora Bora seemed "touristy". Check out the Aranui3 web site and be ready for a trip of a life time. Air Tahiti Nui also has flights to both Atolls we visited and some of the Marquesan Islands out of Papeete.
Kathy Irvine <wirvine@ bak.rr.com>
Bakersfield, Ca USA - Monday, July 28, 2003 at 16:08:26 (EDT)
Dates: 7/7/2003-7/17/2003. Islands - Tahiti, Moorea, Rangiroa

Flew from LAX to Tahiti. Marumau Tours greeted us with open arms at the airport and shuttled us to the Intercontinental Beachcomber, where we were to stay for 3 nights. Great service.

Easy check in at Beachcomber - a friendly inquiry was returned with a room upgrade to the terrace level deluxe room right outside of the "beach pool". This pool had the swim up bar and was one of the neatest things I'd ever seen - it was a chlorinated pool with a sand bottom just like a beach! Beachcomber restaurant is open for what seems like 24 hours - every time our travel confused brains said it was time to eat we ate! Very expensive - US $56 for breakfast for 2. Other meals priced similarly. Great food though for every meal. I'd get the meal plan if staying there again.

Staff was very professional and courteous at Beachcomber, the resort was definitely a world class place. Spent the first day decompressing at the pool. Do not take the snorkeling trip - dead reefs, few fish, expensive. Snorkel around out front of the pool instead on your own.

On day 2 we took at taxi ($US 20) to Papeete to catch the ferry to Moorea. Very well run, 30 minute trip takes you to Moorea - to gaze at the beauty. Fantastically beautiful island. We met our captain at the dock who took us to the Beachcomber where his fishing boat was docked. The captain and crew and weather were very hospitable but the fish were not. Nice day. Incredible beauty. I'd stay there for sure next time. Spent afternoon in Papeete - I would pass on this if given the opportunity again. Streets were dirty and smelled of sewage every block or two. Market was a glorified junk shop in my opinion. Did not buy one thing. My wife thinks I was too harsh on the place, maybe it was the sewer smell that got to me.

Day 3 - off to Rangiroa. Easy time at Papeete airport. Rangiroa airport is open air - no security at all! No bag or person checks!

Spent 2 nights in overwater bungalow at Kia Ora Village. Very beautiful, extremely well run place. Food was suberb! That was a surprise after reading a few reports here. We took the meal plan and were glad, it was $$. Meal plan actually gave us more food than we'd have ordered on our own. Dinner - appetizer, main entree, and dessert, all on meal plan! Staff was wonderful. Everyone understood English but I found myself speaking French for what I was able as it was just a bit easier. Bungalows were great - fun snorkeling right from the bungalow. Did have a jump when found 3 huge roaches in a snack bag we'd left open, but then this is the tropics. Had little geckos running up the walls - very cute. Took bicycles and rode to Avarotu and back - neat to see the place, fun excursion.

Definitely take the snorkel or dive trip through the pass, even if you're not a great swimmer - you're well taken care of. The Italian couple that ran the snorkel trip were fun and very informative. We saw sharks, big rays, a huge blue marlin, and a school of tuna!

Next day took boatride to Kia Ora Sauvage. The Sauvage is what we will remember from our trip. It was truly one of the best things I've ever done in my life. Only other trip that came close was an African Safari a few years ago. Our host, Michael, was the best host I could ever hope for. We loved him and his family, including his grandson and the dogs Joe and Josephine. To watch those dogs chase the sharks is a riot! First night the Sauvage was full with 10 guests. Dinner was fun with a language barrier consisting of English, French, Japanes, and Italian! Michael said no French people come to the Sauvage, but order of frequency is Swiss, Japan, US, then Italian.
The remainder of our stay - the next 3 nights, we had only one other couple with us. There is now hot water at the Sauvage compliments of well gone salty after 16 years and a new reverse osmosis system that makes superb tasting fresh water from seawater. Plenty of hot water!
Food was excellent and plentiful! Excursions were magical. I even went spearfishing with the locals to catch our lunch. Sharks are everywhere but they only raise the heart rate - nothing else. Even my wife did the shark feeding thing, very thrilling!

Our morning routine consisted of waking at 0530, dressing, maybe, maybe not - (I loved running around naked knowing no one else was near), going out to turn the chairs around from the sunset position to the sunrise position, sitting down, and waiting for the sun to rise. Glorious!

I could never find words to do justice to the Sauvage. Just go there. Do not spend only 2 nights or you will be disappointed in leaving so soon! We would forego all of the other places we stayed to add their nights' stays at the Sauvage. It was not world class - it was world's best. No plans, no trains, no cars, no electricity, no email, no TV, no radio, no cell phones, no papers, no money worries - NO PROBLEM!

I will post photos soon. Thanks Michael and family - you made our honeymoon the trip of a lifetime.

Mike Schwing
Mike Schwing <planers@hotmail.com>
Baltimore, MD USA - Saturday, July 19, 2003 at 00:46:34 (EDT)
Trip Report: French Polynesia. May 6 to 18, 2003

We spent 12 nights on a total of four different islands of French Polynesia. There is nothing really unique in this since many people do the same thing. What is somewhat unique is that we tried to watch our money a little more than some people who report here. While he did not go the hostel route, we also did not go the super deluxe route either. The vacation package we started with was the cheapest category. By choice of what island we went to made the cost a bit higher. We also splurged on one island, but it was not at one the mega resorts. Another thing that was unique was that we went as vegetarians. I searched these reports quite thoroughly prior to our trip and could not find any reference to vegetarians. Hopefully what I report here will be a help to the more cost conscious as well as to the vegetarians. We survived quite nicely.

We chose an 11 day package vacation. Our travel agent was very cooperative and allowed us to switch the sequence of islands and to add and subtract days here and there. Due to the late arrival of the flight from Los Angeles we had to add a night in Papeete. Our itinerary was one night in Papette, four nights on Rangiroa (including two at the Kia Ora Sauvage), three nights on Moorea, and four nights on Bora Bora. On each island we booked the lowest cost hotel our package provided. The two exceptions were the Kia Ora Sauvage (worth the money for the experience) and an overwater bungalow on Bora Bora.

On Tahiti we stayed in the lowest cost hotel our travel agent could book–the Tiare. Wonderful location if you want to be downtown. In retrospect this was actually a nice opportunity to see the city of Papeete. I would not have planned it this way, but having a couple of hours to walk around the city was interesting. We were able to visit the central market, exchange money, purchase a few souvenirs, and find some bread for the next couple of days. That was enough. Staying at a fancy and expensive resort outside of town would have prevented this experience and cost a lot more for what? a fancier room and a hour or two by the pool the next morning.

Rangiroa. We arrived around 1:00. The Kia Ora Village is very lovely. All rooms are in individual bungalows arranged in beautiful grounds with tall palm trees and other vegetation. The room is very nice with a porch, small refrigerator, safe in the room, and air conditioning. We choose Rangiora for the snorkeling, the main activity on our agenda on this trip. The snorkeling off of the hotel is nice, but not wonderful. The water is not as clear as we would have liked. Probably too much boat activity.

Kia Ora Sauvage. This was a delightful experience, but not cut out for everyone. If you need to be at a place where there is a lot of activity then this is not the place for you. In fact, French Polynesia may not be the place for you. Life is slower there and much less going on. Sauvage is even less. It is just the caretaker, usually Michael, his wife, and the grounds keeper and his wife plus at most five couples. The bungalows have running water. But no electricity. There are no screens on the windows. There is no music or TV unless you bring your own with batteries. Michael takes you on an excursion each day in the morning and in the afternoon. One day we were the only couple on the island. He took us to two different islands and left us for two and four hours. We had to entertain ourselves with snorkeling, walking, sitting on the beach, shell collecting, and reading. When other couples are there you may pass time talking. It is a wonderful and relaxing experience.

Moorea. We spent three nights at Les Hotel Tipanier in a beach bungalow. This is not a visually attractive hotel. The facilities are a bit dated and are quite close together. The bungalow we were in faced the grassy area behind the beach. Some of the others would have been less nice. We upgraded to their best room for an extra $10 a night. We were comfortable and the rooms were clean.

The snorkeling in front of the hotel is moderate. There is a rather strong current running parallel to the shore, so you are past the hotel area sooner than you might wish. We took a boat from the hotel to a motu to the left of the hotel. Very nice snorkeling in a channel between it and a second motu. We took a 4 x 4 safari with Albert’s Tours. We felt it was worth the time and the money.

Bora Bora. This is where we splurged some and stayed in an overwater bungalow at the Le Maitai Polynesian Hotel. While the hotel is considered a three start hotel, we found it to be comfortable and adequate for our needs. The OW bungalow was wonderful. We had number 4, the farthest out in the center group of bungalows. It is made out of natural materials with a king size bed, a couch, and a TV. The porch is nice as well.

The hotel is convenient to the Tiare Market, about a five minute walk to the north. The market is clean compared to others we saw. The selection, while not great by North American standards, is quite nice.

The snorkeling by the Le Maitai was disappointing, at least near our bungalow. The water was cloudy and the coral was mostly dead branches piled into mounds. The best spot to snorkel is directly across the channel of water. The island containing the Sofetel Motu is there. At the right end of that small island is the so called coral gardens. You can take the kayaks from Le Maitai there, about a 20 minute paddle. Wonderful! We spent the better parts of three days there. When the excursion boats come they feed the fish. Join the excursion group in the water and watch the fun. Hundreds of fish of many varieties can be seen at one time.

We also did a shark/ray feeding excursion here. We had hoped to do it on Moorea since we heard it was better there, but it was cancelled at the last minute. Bora Bora’s version was nice. You are never quite ready to be in the same water with a shark even though the reef sharks there are said to be non-aggressive toward humans. We ended up traveling completely around the island. We also did a 4 x 4 safari. It was recommended to see Bora Bora from the heights to fully appreciate the beauty of the lagoon. This is true. Either sit on the left side of the airplane and/or take a 4 x 4 safari.

Food. As mentioned, we traveled as vegetarians. While nearly vegan at home we do eat dairy products when we travel. Rangiroa was a problem. The hotel restaurant does not know what it means to cook without meat, chicken, or sea food. The wait staff had poor enough English that we ended up with something less than desirable. Food on the Sauvage was wonderful! We made arrangement directly with the hotel several weeks prior to arrival. Michael’s wife did a magnificent job. On Moorea we ate the evening meal at Les Tipanier’s Restaurant. It is Italian cuisine which is usually better for vegetarians. They had several good dishes. On Bora Bora we were four minutes walk from La Bounty Restaurant. This was another Italian restaurant with a couple of items we could choose from plus a variety of pizzas. For breakfast and lunch we bought bread, and ate peanut butter, dried fruit, nuts, and other muchies we brought from home. It is a challenge for strict vegetarians to travel most anywhere. But we were able to survive quite nicely on French Polynesia. The variety was limited, but should not stop you from visiting if you are careful.

A couple of random pieces of information which may be helpful: The only mosquitoes we saw were a few on Moorea. Unfortunately, they were in our room buzzing around at night. We didn’t see them anywhere else. This was May, if that makes any difference. You should definitely go to the Kia Ora Sauvage if possible, and if your view of fun can accommodate the slow, quiet atmosphere there. If you need prescription snorkel masks bring them with you. Bring plenty of sunscreen. We are quite fair, but didn’t get burned, much. Don’t be afraid to save some money and stay in a place less than a five star. If the cost is what is between experiencing French Polynesia and not, choose the lesser cost and go. Weather. We went during the first half of May. The weather was wonderful the entire time except the next to the last day was rainy and cloudy. It rained on and off all day. There were brief showers twice on Moorea, but they lasted five minutes. Have a great time.
Jim
Michigan - Thursday, July 10, 2003 at 13:16:23 (EDT)
15th Wedding Anniversary
May 2002

I recently discovered this forum and felt compelled to submit this trip report, despite it being a little over a year since our trip to French Polynesia.

First a little background. I routinely travel abroad on business, averaging somewhere between 200-300K miles per year, and 100+ nights on the road. I'm pretty comfortable in many capitol cities, and know London, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Singapore, New York, Paris, etc very well. My wife and I vacation 2-3 times per year, and have been to some of the finest resorts in Hawaii, Capri, Maldives, Bali, Australia, etc. Also, I'm no stranger to the 3rd world -- or what is sometimes referred to in my line of work as "emerging markets"; having visited various spots in India, Asia, Africa, and Latin America.

For our wedding anniversary we decided it was time to try a place that had always fascinated us, but had somehow eluded our travel plans. Rather than rushing things, we settled on a three-week vacation. We’d spend the first 4 nights in Kauai, followed by 8 nights on Bora Bora, and then finally 5 nights on the Hawaii (Big Island).

Our travel from Chicago to Kauai was pleasant and uneventful. We stayed at the Hyatt Resort in Poipu -- a longtime favorite of ours. I'll admit that we very anxious to get going to FP, so not too many highlights from this part of the trip.

We departed Lihue for the journey to Papeete via Honolulu on Hawaiian Air. We had a layover for few hours in Honolulu, as the flight to FP doesn't depart until approximately 5pm. The flight to Faaa (First Class) was uneventful, but full of anticipation for us. We arrived just before midnight in Papeete. This seemed extremely unusual to me that the airline would schedule such bizarre arrival and departure times, but we went with the flow.

Customs in Faaa was exceedingly slow. We had some difficulty with the officer -- as we had electronic tickets (but a copy of our itinerary). My wife is a EU passport holder, and that seemed to puzzle him somewhat. Emerging from customs, we were glad to find our luggage and set off to get a taxi to the Sheraton. Finding a cab was a little challenging, but we made it to the Sheraton in one piece. Check-in was slow, but not unpleasant, and we were surprised to find that we had an enormous suite reserved. With nothing really to do at 1am, we showered and went to sleep.

Our flight to Bora Bora was scheduled (and confirmed, twice) for 11am. The clerk at the Sheraton said :30 min prior to departure was fine for Air Tahiti -- relax. We had breakfast and left the hotel around 9:00am. We arrived no later than 9:30am, paid the taxi, and rolled our luggage towards AT check-in. The clerk was exceedingly rude and informed us that the next plane wasn't until 2:00pm. How could this be? We argued. Here are our tickets -- they say 11:00am. What is the deal? Well, that's just how it is, she informed us -- and there was nothing she could or would do (she wouldn't even check our bags so we could leave the airport). It was Sunday morning and we had over 4 hours to kill at Faaa -- with nothing open and absolutely nothing to do. The heat was stifling, and the mosquitoes descended on us for their breakfast.

A little after 2pm we finally (!) boarded the plane for Bora Bora and took off from that dreadful airport -- not a very auspicious start to our Tahitian vacation. Determined to have a good time, we shrugged it off and looked forward to the remainder of the journey. The flight was fine, and we disembarked and were met by the crew for the boat ride to our resort -- the Le Meridien. We were met at the pier by a clerk and were told that our bags would be transported to our bungalow. Immediately we were struck by the sheer beauty of the island and the most remarkable sound of silence. The resort appeared to be at about 25-30% capacity. Fine by us, we thought.

Check-in was relatively painful, but we thought it a little odd that the receptionist spoke almost no English, and appeared to be very new on the job and left to her own devices. My first inkling was that she was a French student working there for the summer. Finally through the check-in process, we were given a very brief tour of the property and pointed towards our bungalow -- which was several hundred yards away along the beach and all the way at the end of a long pontoon (we had reserved a premium OWB). Entering the room my wife was taken aback at how unclean it was, and thought that there must be some kind of mistake. The bungalow was small-ish and very dark. There is a fixed surfboard-shaped coffee table in the middle of the room, and a divider separating the sleeping area from the bathroom. The bungalow is not air conditioned, and there are no screens on the windows. There was a small mini-bar refrigerator, a television, and that was about it. Oh well, I guess $700 per night doesn't go as far as you'd like it to...

We had dinner in the "good restaurant" that evening, Le Tipanie. Service was poor (slow and inattentive), and the food was just okay. We stopped off at the Mai Tai bar for a drink before heading back to our bungalow. The place was empty except for the bartender and one other couple. As we sat down, my wife nearly jumped out of her seat when she saw a huge cockroach-looking bug on her shoulder. I knocked it off and proceeded to stomp it to death. This was all very amusing for the couple and the bartender, who had a little conversation in French about it in front of us. Needless to say, it was a pretty quick drink and off to the room.

The next several days were pretty much identical. We sunbathed on our deck, swam in the lagoon, and ate in the dining room buffet. The weather was perfect, but a little too hot. The lack of A/C really started to get to us, as there was nowhere to escape it. I also started to notice a pattern with the buffet. Something like Roast Beef one night, beef tips in sauce the next night, beef stew the following night, and so on. Very suspicious to say the least. It all pretty much goes downhill from here...

By this point we've been on Bora Bora for a few days and my wife is covered in Mosquito bites -- with new ones appearing each morning. Neither of us can sleep because of the heat and lack of A/C. We lie in bed sweltering until we eventually passed out exhausted. We decide that we can't possibly eat another evening meal at the hotel, so we make reservations for Bloody Mary's. We take the boat to the ramp and wait approximately :20 mins for the van. We then proceed to stop at (what seems like) every resort on the way to the restaurant. The staff at Bloody Mary's greets us warmly, and I was getting pretty excited. The interior is unique, but it was still unbearably hot and humid. The food was okay, but nothing to write home about. Imagine eating a steak while sitting in a steam bath/sauna, while looking down as a sandy floor practically moving with bugs. We finished our meal and were rushed back into the bus (but not after the obligatory stop in the gift shop). I was a little disappointed, as I wanted to sit at the bar for a few hours (sorry, you must go).

The next day we made a foray into Viatape. Now, you must understand -- shopping is a BIG deal for my wife, and it is a something she looks forward to on vacation. If you've been to Viatape, I don't need to say another word. There is absolutely NOTHING, and it is an extremely sad and pathetic little village. We told the taxi to pick us up in four hours; we were done in less than one. Dejected, we returned to he hotel. Nothing much to report for that evening, more bugs, more heat, no sleep.

The next day I decided to cool off with a little dip in the lagoon. While climbing down the steps in the water the ladder broke. It just snapped in two and I plunged into the water, receiving a sizable gash in my thigh. With no way to reach the deck, I had to swim maybe 150 yards to a ladder used by the maintenance men about mid-way down the pontoon. Bleeding (not profusely, but bleeding nonetheless), I made my way towards the front desk. Explaining what happened, I was told that there was no Doctor or first aid kit. I would need to take the boat to the dock and catch a taxi to see the Doctor in Viatape! No apologies, no "ohmigod, what can we do for you?” just slightly bemused indifference and blank stares.

By now, Bora Bora is really starting to get on our nerves. The next day I dropped a Hinano on the floor in the bungalow and it shattered. My wife stepped on a piece and cut her foot pretty bad. Knowing that she can't hop the 500 yards to the front desk (not that it was going to do her any good), I called the operator, panicked. I spent the next 15 minutes trying to explain what happened. "MY WIFE CUT HERSELF. SHE STEPPED ON SOME GLASS. YES, GLASS. PLEASE SEND HELP!” Fifteen minutes later there was a knock on the door. It was a room service guy holding tray with some Ice Cream. "You ordered Glace, Monsieur?

Yeah, its kinda funny now. But when your wife is bleeding you don't find the humor, and you don't think about diplomacy. You think about finding the Hotel Manager and beating the shit out of him. Now that both of us look like the walking wounded, we decide it's time to call it quits. Since there is only one Hawaiian Air flight per week, we leave the following morning a day early and decide we'll take our chances in Papeete. At least we'll have air conditioning, we thought. We received a little grief from the staff upon early checkout, but I think they knew not to push too far. We departed thoroughly dejected and disgusted with the experience.

Now back in Papeete, we checked into the Le Meridien (Sheraton was booked). I took my wife into town with the hopes that maybe a little shopping would cheer her up. We caught a taxi and jumped out near where the cruise ships are docked. We sat down for a coffee at a little cafe nearby. Almost calm, I suddenly felt something furry on my sandaled foot. My immediate reflex was to kick out -- which I did. It was a rat. We're talking big, fat NYC subway-sized rat here my friend. My wife freaked. I had enough. We went back to the hotel and stayed in the room until the next evening when it was time to go. We ate only room service. We took comfort that at least we had a few days in the Big Island to look forward to, and it was going to feel good to get back to Hawaii. We departed the hotel, checked-in at the airport and sat nearly mute in the Air New Zealand lounge waiting for the plane to get us the hell out of there. Ah yes, but Tahiti wasn't done with us just yet. We both spent the next two days in bed sick as dogs. The hotel (Orchid Mauna Lani) doctor suspected it was parasitic, and that we had picked it up in something we ate in Papeete.

Am I bitter? Yes. But you might be surprised to learn that I didn't sue the hotel or write nasty letters, and in fact I would almost consider going back. Yes, in retrospect we had a comedically bad experience. But we've learned from it, and can move on. Would we stay at the Le Meridien again? Absolutely not. Do we tell anyone and everyone about our experience? You bet. The real problem here is that Tahiti is marketed (and priced) as a luxury resort destination -- and the target audience are US Honeymooners and couples (Organization of Pacific Islands Tourism statistics show that over 50% of visitors to FP are from the USA). In fact, it's really a Third World colony with beautiful scenery, friendly natives, and overpriced but adequate resorts. It's all about expectations. If you go into it knowing what to expect and what NOT to expect (and prepare accordingly), I imagine that the experience could be wonderful. Best of luck to all.

BKE
Chicago, IL USA - Monday, July 07, 2003 at 21:31:02 (EDT)
Anniversary 6/27/03 - 7/4/03
1 night Tahiti Beachcomber - Garden Room
3 nights Moorea Beachcomber - Beach Bungalow #317
4 nights Pearl Beach Bora Bora - Premium OW Bungalow #45
1 dayroom Tahiti Beachcomber - Garden Room
Air Tahiti Nui

My husband and I started off our trip on a Thursday on Air Tahiti Nui. It was a great flight since it was not a full flight, there were plenty of seats for my husband and I to spread out on. The flight was on time, and the flight attendants very friendly. The only complaints I have were the seats were very close together and the food wasn't that great.

We got to Tahiti and were greeted with a flower lei, they were very easy to find since they had a large board with our names on it.

We were transferred us to Tahiti Beachcomber which was a 5 minute drive and was very nice since we were ready to get our vacation started. We checked into the hotel with no problems, and were taken to our garden room which was very satisfying. We each took showers and went directly to dinner at Tiare restaurant. The restaurant was crowded with people but had very few servers. Althouh, once we received our food, it was delicious.

The next morning we got to the airport and took the 10 minute flight to Moorea. We stayed at the Moorea Beachcomber in a beach bungalow #317. What a great bungalow, we were completely happy with our bungalow, it was a large with a great bathroom a comfortable bed, and a great deck overlooking the beach to our left and the ocean 5 feet from our deck.

We stayed in Moorea for 3 nights and unfortunately we were greeted with rain the whole time we were there. Moorea is such a beautiful island with great mountains and peaks and two beautiful bays.

The first day we booked a trip with Albert Tours to do the shark and sting ray feeding tour. I enjoyed this trip but I was a little disappointed in the boat that was used, I've been on many other excursion trips and it always seems nicer to be on a catamaran. This boat was plain with rows of seats facing forward. We stopped at the shark feeding which was quite incredible. My husband and I were directly behind the guide who was feeding the shark 2 feet in front of us. Next we stopped at the sting ray feeding got in 3-4 feet of water to feed the 30 or so sting rays below us. Now this would have been an incredible experience had we not done the sting ray feeding trip in the Cayman Islands 5 months prior. Next we boarded the boat and stopped at a Motu to have a picnic with very good food and a little snorkeling. We went out in the water but were greeted with coral all around us. Unfortunately, this was not a good place to snorkel. Unlike the Carribean, the guides always warn about stepping on or touching coral for fear of damaging the coral and unabling the coral to grow if touched. In Tahiti this is never mentioned. The coral was in very shallow water so it was very difficult to snorkel in and around in, for fear of touching the coral and damaging it. We stayed on the motu for nearly an hour and headed back to the Moorea beachcomber.

The following day we booked a trip also with Albert Tours to do the jeep safari. It was a great day, we loaded on the back of a Toyota 4x4 truck with seats built in the bed of the truck with 2 other couples. Our driver took us to a pineapple plantation where we drove through a bumpy road and through a small river to the plantation. Next we stopped at a shop where you could purchase locally produced pineapple and coconut rum and liquers. Our driver gave us samples of all the different alcohols ranging from 10% proof to 80% proof. We purchased a few bottles of alcohol to drink in our bungalow later in the trip and to bring home.

Next our driver Tom took us to a waterfall, where we took a 15 minute hike up the side of the mountain where a huge waterfall is located. Since we took our trip in the winter the waterfall only had a small portion of water draining from the top of the mountain but in the summer time I imagine it's a beautiful and huge waterfall with tons of water cascading down.

Tom took us completely around the island and we stopped at the top of Belvedere lookout where we were able to take beautiful pictures of the island of Moorea. The whole trip lasted around 5 hours at $35 per person well worth the money.

Even though we enjoyed ourselves in Moorea, we were very disappointed with the rain, and I'm sure we would have had a better experience in Moorea if the sun was shining the whole time. The island is truly beautiful, we were very happy with the Beachcomber except for the amount of money for breakfast each morning. The breakfast buffet was $28 per person.

We had dinner at only one good restaurant, Te Honu Iti. It was the best food on the island that we tried, except for the terrible service. One night we had dinner at Plantation restaurant which was over priced and not very good. I had the lobster which was extremly overcooked at $60. Another evening we went to dinner at a local restaurant called Chez Capo. An extremely nice owner, with a lovely patio but the food wasn't very good.

The next day we boarded a plane to Bora Bora which was a 45 minute flight from Moorea. We arrived at the Pearl Beach and what a magnificent resort. I cannot say enough good things about this resort. We were given bungalow #45 since the famous #35 was not available. It is the same view of Mt Otemanu but much further to walk to.

Our bugalow was incredible, we had a huge bathroom, an awesome patio, a CD player and TV in the room. I absolutely loved our bungalow, besides the long hike to get to our bungalow.

The first day in Bora Bora we stayed in our bungalow and sunbathed went to the pool and just relaxed. The following day we rented waverunners for two hours. This was quite expensive but worth the money. We rented 2 waverunners which were around $370 dollars. Or you could rent one waverunner if you like. My husband and I have waverunners so we each wanted our own to drive. At first we were disappointed since we were going slow. We continued to get in trouble by the guides since we were following too close and going too fast for them. The scenery is gorgeous with the beautiful blue lagoon right below you and the gorgeous scenery all around. We stopped at a Motu for pictures of Mt. Otemanu and for the guides to cut open a coconut so we were able to try coconut milk and shredded coconut on bannanas. Delicious!! We stayed on the motu for about 45 minutes and finally we were off on the waverunners once again. The guides finally let us cut loose on the waverunners and we were able to go full throddle only to be back at the P.B. too soon. Great trip and worth the money.

That evening we went to the Haeva festival, we were fortunate to be in Bora Bora in July for their annual Haeva festival. We purchased tickets from the PB and enjoyed a show of dancers and music, very entertaining.

The following day we went into Bora Bora for my husband and I to each get a tattoo at Marama Tattoos. We had a driver for the day, she was a lovely lady who worked at Pearl Beach but offered to drive us around for the whole day for $60. She was so friendly she drove us to Marama Tattoos and said she would be back in 1 1/2 hours to pick us up. We each picked which tattoo we wanted, this was our first tattoo, but we were extremely happy that we used Marama since he was so talented and put us at ease.

Next our driver picked us up and took us to Hotel Bora Bora for dinner. What an incredible hotel. We had drinks at the bar with an incredible sunset view. Then we stepped over to our table for a delicious dinner and service.

We finished dinner and our driver took us back to the dock to head back to PB. It was an awesome day and it couldn't have been better.

We ate at Bloody Mary's two nights which was awesome. The first night we went our fish was overcooked, but the second night our dinner was absolutely delicious. Try the seared Ahi Tuna appetizer, Moon fish, and Coconut Tart with ice cream. Absolutley fabulous!!!
Another night we went to dinner at Top Dive, extremely expensive just like Hotel Bora Bora. Our dinner was good, but not fabulous like most people brag about, I've definately have had better! The service was good, although, the bartender was very snooty. There were lots of people who complained about Top Dive. It was good, a beautiful restaurant, but overpriced.

The following day we headed back to Tahiti for a few hours before our flight left. We had a day room at the Beachcomber. We took Le Truck to the market, bought some souvenirs and headed back to the Beachcomber for dinner and shower before we were taken to the airport.

We boarded our plane on Air Tahiti Nui, unfortunately we left on a Friday night so the plane was completely booked no room to spread out this time.

All in all we had a wonderful time in Moorea, Bora Bora and Tahiti. and I can't wait to go back soon!
Desiree <dmillerjelso1@comcast.net>
Albuquerque, NM USA - Sunday, July 06, 2003 at 18:20:28 (EDT)
Honeymoon from 5/26/03 to 6/5/03
Airline: Air France, good, no complaints.
Islands visited:
Rangiroa - beach bungalow (2 nights at Kio Ora Village, 2 nights Kio Ora Sauvage)
Bora Bora - Pearl Beach Resort OWB #35 (3 nights)
Moorea - Sofitel Kia Ora OWB #120 (3 nights)
Tahiti half day (Papeete market)
Favorite Island: Definitely Rangiroa (the Sauvage), already talking about going back ;o)
A big thanks to all of you who have shared your own trip experiences and thoughts. It was very helpful.
What a wonderful honeymoon we had, we loved the whole experience and would go back in a heartbeat. The beauty of all three islands we visited took us away. We thought each one of them had a different feel and a unique beauty.
If you would like to take a look at our pictures go to http://www.dukesdotcom.com/pictures/Honeymoon/index.htm
If you have any questions just send us an email. We will gladly respond.

Duke and Laura <lrayol@tampabay.rr.com>
Tampa, FL USA - Wednesday, July 02, 2003 at 12:32:02 (EDT)
we just got back last night from our honeymoon in Bora Bora, we stayed at LE MERIDIAN resort...BY FAR the most wonderful and secluded and exotic! We were able to see all the resorts and would have been disapointed with any other, the setting for this resort is like something you cannot imagine! We recommend the shark feeding excursion and renting a little car on the main island for groceries, a money saver and an adventure! Food wasnt great anywhere we went, Bloody Mary's was the best though overall....it is paradise!!!! Cant wait to go back! The over the water bungalows are the only way to go!
Jennifer and Chris Froehlich <jwykle@hotmail.com>
Chattanooga, TN USA - Monday, June 30, 2003 at 13:46:32 (EDT)
This site made all the difference in making our trip more enjoyable in many ways by providing a variety of good, usable information. We knew where we wanted to stay, best bungalows, what to do and where to eat. Our heartfelt thanks to all who contribute. We even met another forum memember in BB, Jeff and Julie from Kentucky. What a great couple.
Left SLC Jun 11 to LAX, smooth and quick. Air Tahiti Nui was nice, clean. We slept a little, not comfortable but not bad.
DAY 1. Arrived Papeete 5AM. Got right to the Moorea terminal and out on the second flight. Very short, about 10 minutes. Taken to the Moorea Intercontinental Beachcomber. Very nice! Really upscale. We had joined the Six Continents Club and were upgraded from beach to OWB #510. Not a direct sunset view but a splendid spot. We were on a point and it was just magnificent. Had Poisson Cru and pizza for lunch. Roamed the resort and turned in at 8PM. We were so tired.
DAY 2. Celebrated my 48th birthday by having breakfast on our deck. We went on Alberts Shark and Stingray tour. We enjoyed it and recommend it.The picnic was excellent with poisson cru, barbecued chicken, fish and Hinanos.Even had a coconut demonstration.
Dinner at Te Honu Iti, food was good but service was poor. We ignored this but received our drinks at the dinners end and waited one hour for our bill after requesting it. I cannot recommend this restaurant in spite of good food with the service we experienced. Several couples mentioned the felt the same.
DAY 3. Great sunrises and we left for Alberts 4x4 Safari.Also very good. We went to Belvedere, ancient temple, waterfall, and pineapple distillery.We stopped first at a small market for water and were told the bugs inland were vicious and our deet spray wasn't enough, must have tropical strength.So everyone purchased a small bottle and between all of us we saw only one mosquito the whole trip.
Layed out in the sun but abandoned the high SPF lotion. The sun was not as harsh for us and we used Monoi. No burn.
Dinner at Alfredo's, it was excellent! Much nicer ambiance, attentive service, nice background music and superb food. We thought this was the best.
DAY 4. Plane to BB, sit on left for view and pictures. Taken from airport by boat to Sofitel Motu, where we were greeted by ukelele music and drinks in coconuts.We were lucky to get OWB #128. It is better than you could wish for, it is fit for a king. The deck points out to a beautiful view complete with a reef egret as our constant companion.
Did the burger and fries, very good($15). Had dinner at the Motu, flambeed lobster,not bad, a little overcooked perhaps.
DAY 5. Great snorkeling around the bungalow. As per Cubfan's recomend, we went to Snack Patoti. Godd advice and had the Hot Pan. But like Cubfan said, hours are if-ey. First day was at 12;30 and it was closed. this day at 11;30 it was open. Also Tiare Market is a convenient spot to get bread, cheese, and water.
Dinner at Bloody Mary's, overall our favorite on BB. Great atmosphere, fun and check out the bathrooms. I had the wahoo and swordfish combo. Awesome! Yes, there were small worms (millipedes) in the sand but I had to look for them or wouldn't have noticed.
DAY 6. Went in to Vaitape, good to visit and buy gifts. Exchanged travellers checks at Socredo bank, but same rate as hotels, 90 CFP/$100.
Dinner at Top Dive. Elegant restaurant with top quality food presented as if a work of art. Good service.
Day 7. Kayaked to back of Motu. Lots of coral and a variety of fish, best snorkeling we did.
Dinner at Fare Manuia. Nice little place and well the food was good, it was maybe a 7 out of 10.After getting back, we had coctails by Marara's poolside with forum members Jeff& Julie, their friends El and Kelly from Chicago, and Al and Heather from Vegas. Nice ending to our last night in BB.
DAY 8. Flew to Tahiti early afternoon and checked into the Sheraton. Great hotel with lush gardens and a way cool infinity pool. Took Le Truck into town and found great shops above a large fish market. Bought last of our gifts and headed for the waterfront to eat at the Roulettes. This is also very fun. At 5;30 the roulettes came driving in like a convoy, quickly setting up and serving. Many food choices for an average of $10. Finally found LeTruck back to hotel in time to check out and get to airport. To respond to recent posts about film, we had no previous problems requesting hand check. At Faa'a the gave us a hard time but finally relented and actually took each roll out, swabbed both ends and light trap individually. Each roll's sample was fed into their machine to check for explosives? This was slow but we smiled and passed through to our gate smoothly.
Some final observations. It IS paradise and worth every penny. We were lucky with perfect weather as it rained before and after we were there. OWB worth it, no bugs, breezes, and great views. Dining is expensive but overall worth it- average cost $90-$120/ couple w/o alcohol.
Thanks again to the many who provided valuable information and advice. Maruru!
David Oblock <doblock@tcsourceone.com>
Providence, Utah USA - Wednesday, June 25, 2003 at 09:38:56 (EDT)
We stayed at the Sheraton in Tahiti the first night because our flight arrived late in the evening. Sheraton was clean and we enjoyed a delicious breakfast there before leaving for Bora Bora. We stayed in a premium OWB at The Pearl Beach Bora Bora for 7 nights. It was spectacular! Flying into Bora Bora nothing will prepare you for the amazing views of the island you will see. The colors of the water range from light shades of blue and turquoise to shades of green in some areas. It is absolutely gorgeous! The food & drinks were expensive. Believe everyone when they tell you that and also, if you are worried about it then French Polynesia might not be the place to go. We did go to the main island and picked up some food & drinks for our room. We also brought some alcohol to mix drinks which we enjoyed on our deck each evening.

The 4X4 jeep safari was bumpy & crowded in the back since we had 10 people total in the jeep. It was worth it for the amazing views we saw. They also stopped for pareo & pearl shopping. We bought a black pearl in Bora Bora but when we stopped at the airport in Papeete to check prices, we found them to be more reasonable there. Just a tip. DON'T miss the Shark/Ray feeding! It was incredible! We did a private tour that stopped in several spots to offer snorkeling & then ended with a private Motu picnic where they bbq'd a Tahitian feast! So much food.

We bought the meal plan for part of our days, next time I would not do that. It worked out okay but we decided we didn't like being tied down to that schedule as you have to pick your meal dates ahead of time. There was a huge breakfast buffet every morning. Go early before the flies are out :) They do not mind if you take a roll or two back to your room to snack on later...or feed the fish.

The sun is very strong. Even if you tan easily, you will need sunscreen. We had great weather & only used our A/C a few times. There is a nice breeze which provided some relief. The lagoon would be windy one day and calm the next. Very cool. Snorkeling is not great there but if you go near OWB #22 there is some coral & a lot of fish. Other than that you can walk, swim or kayak out to the area off the OWB's & you will find a variety of fish. You will see sting ray occasionally, however they have no interest in sticking around. If you do the ray feeding, they will rub up on you especially when they are getting fed.

Overall we had a terrific vacation and can't wait to go back. We really liked staying on a motu rather than the main island. It was convenient enough to get over there when we needed to. Bloody Mary's was a fun experience too! We enjoyed the fresh fish & atmosphere.

Have a wonderful time in paradise if you are going....if not, have fun dreaming about it. I hope you all make it there one day.

Nana!
Julie & David

JMK
Chino Hills, CA USA - Monday, June 23, 2003 at 09:04:38 (EDT)
Our experience and thus advice for future travelers: May 25-June
1, 2003 trip

Flights: 3 hrs early to LAX not needed. Our Alaska airlines flight
arrived, and within 30 minutes we had walked to Intl Terminal,
checked in, passed security, and had to wait 2.5 hours at gate to
board Air Tahiti plane. Very few were there that early.

6:30pm arrived Papeete, and immediately flew to Moorea.
Arrived resort at 9:30pm, but excellent way to go! Get there in one
day instead of staying overnight in Papeete. Then wake up in
paradise! Why waste a day? The flight to Moorea is all
passengers from the LAX flight-they'll wait.

Moorea Pearl Beach OWB (overwater bungalow) is the BEST!
The OWB are right on the crest of shallow to deep water, thus
snorkeling was excellent right off the OWB. All other OWB's we
saw on other resorts were in 2 ft of water with no coral and very
little fish. We guessed from internet photo's and were exactly
right. Where the water is a light teal color, it is very shallow-waist
deep at most. where it is dark blue, it is deep and more fish.
We also stayed at Bora bora pearl beach-beachfront bungalow
and OWB, and there was no snorkeling at Bora Bora without
going a ways. Also, all the Moorea OWB's face north (out the
deck), and got sun on the deck all day even to sunset: at BB,
most faced so there was very little sun on the deck-partial day at
most. If you want sun, make sure you figure out which unit you
will get in advance!

Moorea-get off the resort for fun-the rental car shack across the
street was half price than the on-resort one, plus we kept it
overnight free, while the resort one pickup was 2pm, and
minimum 4 hr rental, but car had to be back by 5pm! Drive to
Belevedere lookout! Walk to store just down street and get
some snacks. We did the dolphin experience at Beachcomber:
$$$ but memories. 3 days perfect weather, sea calm as glass.
Kayaked out to the coral reef.

Bora Bora Pearl Beach: beachfront bungalow was
amazing-large with 3 distinct areas, the outdoor bathroom
amazing, but the bugs got to us, and we went to the OWB for the
last 2 nights. No bugs OWB. Deet effective, but not amorous, if
you know what I mean. Half rain: unbrella's in holders near
checkin and around resort should have been clue! Shark
feeding and Sting Ray was WOW! do this. Dinner at Top Dive
beautiful, elegant. BB Pearl Tennis court a joke, don't bother.

summary:

1. Tahiti is expensive: dinner of shared appetizer and 2 entrees
is at least $85 and that's without wine. Less favorable exchange
rate didn't help. We never exchanged money: Credit card works
everywhere (tiny shops have wireless credit card machines!!),
even US dollars accepted anywhere at rates better than resort
exchanges. If you can't get over the prices, go somewhere else,
it will bother you. No tax, no tip compensates. And room service
is same price as restaurant, so do this! fun.

2. US is definately the minority. Tahiti first, then French, then
asain, and many could not really communicate in english (or
japenese for that matter), thought they tried and it was fun to try to
communicate, but if it had been important, forget it.

3. Papeete is anticlimatic. Spend as little time there as
possible. Stay on the outer islands.

4. Take drowsy medication for flight. The armrests do NOT fold
all the way up making lying on mulitple seats very difficult even if
available. Sleep is the best way to pass the time. See your MD
or something.
Jim and Elaine Alder <JCAlder@gte.net>
Portland, OR USA - Sunday, June 22, 2003 at 00:52:33 (EDT)
French Polynesia May 2003

This trip was for our 10th anniversary. Many thanks to those who gave me so much information through these boards.

Flights to Tahiti:
We left Dallas at 11 am on a brand new 777 with individual video screens in the back of each seat. Made the trip go fast. American checked our bags through to Papeete so all we had to do upon arriving in LA was take the short walk from Terminal 4 to the Tom Bradley international terminal. We checked in with Air Tahiti Nui but passed on the Business class upgrade (just couldnt justify the $600 per person expense). Since American didnt provide lunch on the flight from DFW we checked out the food court at LAX. Ended up getting some very good sushi at "Sushi Boy". We then went through security, a bit of a line but not outrageous, and waited at the gate. Saw the plane arrive, it really has a distinctive and pretty look. We met up with another cruisecritic couple at the gate. Recognized each other from the "Hall of Fame". The plane was the Mangareva, one of the older (but by no means old) planes. The seats were quite comfortable with footrests and lumbar supports. The flight attendants came through the cabin with Tiare flowers then a flight kit (mask, ear plugs, headphones, socks). Drinks and dinner were served and were actually pretty tasty. I was too excited to sleep so I just watched two movies and the flight tracker on the back of the seat in front of me. The flight wasnt too full and many people were able to stretch out across several seats and sleep. After a few hours we were served another snack. Then we landed at the small airport in Papeete. We were greeted by a group playing ukeleles and given more Tiares. Immigration and customs was quick and easy. The airport was warm, but not unpleasant. After finding all our luggage (yeah!) we found the Tahiti Nui Travel agent who gave us a beautiful lei and directed us to a van. We did change some money at the airport, it seemed the exchange rate was better than at LAX but they do charge a $4 fee for each transaction, so its better to change a larger than smaller amount.

Pre Cruise stay:
Off to the Le Meridien. Couldnt appreciate much of Tahiti at night. We checked into our room promptly. The room was only OK. The bathroom is strange and the shower did not drain. The AC seemed to work well and we were soon off to sleep. The next morning we both woke up fairly early, probably due to the time change but the incessant barking of dogs and crowing of roosters didnt help. The grounds of Le Meridien are pretty. The waves breaking over the reef were huge and made a constant roar. The sand bottom pool is interesting. Breakfast was at the beach restaurant. Quite a nice buffet including some Japanese foods (sushi for breakfast? Why not!). We walked to a grocery nearby (just to the left as you exit the hotel) and bought some snacks, water and beer. Prices varied widely. Bread was cheap (20 cents) water was reasonable, but many things were expensive ($11 for a 6 pack of beer!). Also purchased a phone card ($15 for 40 units which ended up giving us about 15 minutes of talk time to the US). Now we were out of Francs so we used the ATM at the grocery store. It wouldnt take my ATM card but did take my VISA card. We were the only two to transfer from the hotel to the ferry. I was pleasantly surprised that all of the transfers were prompt and smooth. Dropped our luggage off at the ferry then had a decent sandwich and our first Hinano at a snack bar at the ferry dock. We met up with several other couples who were doing a pre-cruise stay at the Moorea Beachcomber. For some reason we were the only ones who had stayed at the Le Meridien the night before. Many people were waiting for the ferry; school kids, people who had obviously come over to shop, families etc. Many people were wearing flowers behind their ears, something we saw frequently. The ferry trip was only 30 minutes dock to dock. On the lower decks are airplane style seats and a snack bar. French TV shows are shown on overhead screens. We went on the top deck. It was windy and rough but worth it for the sight of sailing into Vaiatape. Looked like something out of a movie. The transfer from the ferry to the hotel was incredibly scenic, going around Cooks and Opunohu Bays. Each new view was more incredible than the next.

Check in at the Beachcomber went smoothly. They have a separate check-in for the Radisson guests. I had e-mailed the resort the week before requesting a certain overwater bungalow (514) and received it. It is one of the few that is completely overwater and has a great view of the reef, the Dolphin area and the sunset. Once we got to the room we changed into swimsuits and hopped into the lagoon for some snorkeling. Many beautiful fish and nice coral. The water was so calm you could easily see the bottom in 10 feet of water and identify different varieties of fish. We then went to the dive shop to arrange our certification dives. I had e-mailed the on-site dive shop earlier (Bathys Club) and so they were expecting us. We then strolled the grounds and sat at the bar for our complimentary welcome drink. That was the only place I encountered any mosquitoes. We decided that we were not feeling adventuresome that evening so we made reservations for the beach buffet and show. The buffet was a bit chaotic as there was a large group at the hotel who seemed to feel that if they didnt rush the food line there might not be any left. Once they calmed down, we went through the buffet line and were pleased to see the variety and excellent quality of the food. The show afterwards was good. The best part was this 6 year old girl who was just darling and could really dance! The buffet and show were $62 per person and drinks were extra. Hinano and French wines were the best bargains. Still feeling a bit worn out from traveling, we turned in early. The interior of the bungalow is very nice. Thatched roof, woven walls, a separate sitting area and balcony. The bathroom was quite spacious with a large tub, open shower and separate toilet room. The only minor problem was the water was scorching hot unless you turned it almost all the way to cool. The AC worked well but the remote control was a bit finicky. A firm yet comfortable bed, good pillows and we were off to sleep.

We woke up early the next morning and enjoyed the sunrise from our balcony. Saw room service going by with canoe breakfasts. Watched the trainers interacting with the dolphins. Saw the Windstar move from Cooks to Opunohu Bay. Watched Tahitians going out to fish. Saw two dogs playing in the water for hours on end. We went to breakfast and felt that the buffet was not as good as the one at Le Meridien. Certainly glad it was included in our package as for $27 per person it was awfully expensive for what you got. We decided to try out one of the outrigger canoes. They have an extensive watersports program at the Beachcomber and some things like the canoes are free. They are certainly harder to paddle with two people than it looks. Worked much better when I was the lookout and my husband paddled. The lagoon depth varies dramatically and in some places it is easy to run aground on the coral. We then decided to take a walk and see what was in the area. Right at the end of the driveway is Miss Pizza (which came in very handy the next day), then about mile to the right is a small shop which has breads, snacks etc. Farther down is Hotel Tipaniers which has a restaurant which is supposed to be good. Its about 2 miles to Le Petite Village. A bit of a long walk but not too unpleasant as the day was overcast and breezy. There are many pearl shops, souvenir shops, a bank, and Internet caf, restaurants, a bank and a grocery in Le Petite Village. Stopped for lunch at a roulotte (Le sud?) and had a wonderful large ham and cheese sandwich on French bread for only $4. Had to watch out for the chickens trying to get some. I decided to stop at the Black Pearl Gem Company on the way back to the hotel. A very nice shop. Free water, beer and cokes on ice in the back. Many nice jewelry pieces. The sales staff were helpful and low pressure. I found a setting and pearls (earrings) I liked although the pearls were on a different setting. No problem, they could switch them and deliver them to the hotel later. I felt the price was fair and decided to get them. They refund your VAT up front, just ask that you have the form stamped at the airport as you leave and drop it in the pre-stamped envelope. Even gave us a ride back to the hotel. Once back at the hotel it was time for our first dive. Just the two of us did a lagoon dive with our instructor Lou Lou. Started our in shallow water with a stingray playing around us. Saw our first shark. Did a few skill drills then just swam around and looked at the coral and fish. Saw eagle rays, an eel and an anemone with a resident clown fish. A good first dive. For dinner we decided to try La Linareva, the floating boat restaurant. Arranged transportation through the hotel for $5 per person (much less expensive than a taxi). We went with about 12 Japanese people. The boat is small and is at the end of a long pier. It moves quite a bit, so if youre prone to motion sickness this would not be for you. The appetizer and entree specials of the day were written on chalkboards. We had the calamari then I had parrotfish in Vanilla sauce (yum!). The Mahi mahi in ginger sauce was rather bland. After dinner the waitresses do a few dances. Then back to the hotel. A much better bargain than the night before ($82 for dinner, drinks and transportation). It was quite windy by the time we got back to the bungalow. I was sure it was going to blow over a few times during the night.

The next morning we had two dives scheduled. The first was a shark feeding, although we didnt participate in the actual feeding. But still, rolling off the boat into a group of sharks is a strange experience. By the end of the dive they seemed like just another fish. The visibility outside the lagoon was amazing. The second dive was around some beautiful coral formations. Everything about the dive shop seemed to run on extra slow island time so by the time we got back to shore, everything was closed for siesta. Thats when Miss Pizza really came in handy. Pretty good pizza too. In the afternoon we rented a car from Europcar right on site. Considered renting a scooter, but for only $15 more I was happier with the car (besides they were out of scooters). Rental was $60 for 4 hours plus gas. Small Fiat with a manual transmission and no AC but it was fine. We drove up to the Belvedere. Really amazing views of both bays and saw the Paul Gauguin for the first time. Stopped at a phone booth to call home. Amazingly simple. Just put your card in the phone, dial 001 and your phone number and youre talking to the US for about $1 a minute. Continued on to the pineapple distillery. Really much more of a shop than anything else. I did try the various liquors and ended up getting some Tahiti Drink and Vanilla liquor (really delicious). We continued around the island and came upon a sobriety checkpoint (at 3:30 in the afternoon?!). Good thing my husband only tried a little of one sample! So, if you go to the pineapple distillery, be forewarned! We then stopped into the largest grocery on the island, just south of the ferry dock. Picked up some food for dinner on our balcony that evening. They do take credit cards and have a decent selection of things. Once again was amazed at the local prices. Continued all the way around the island. Many beautiful views, lots of locals riding bikes, dogs running around with baguettes in their mouths, kids surfing, fishermen hanging their catch by the side of the road. Filled up with gas ($10) and back to the hotel. Spent the evening relaxing on our balcony. Saw part of a Tahitian wedding ceremony on the beach. Quite a spectacle! Watched the Paul Gauguin sail away for Papeete, knowing we would be on board tomorrow! Snorkeled off of our balcony at night. There are lights under the bungalows which light up the water, but not too many fish at night. Oh well, at least we tried it.

One last breakfast, one last dive (this time with 3 different types of sharks, and lots of them) and time to say good-bye to the Beachcomber. Watched a ray swim slowly through the lagoon. I was really glad we had done the pre-cruise stay. Moorea is a beautiful island and it was nice to be able to see more of it, both above and below water, than could be done on the 1 and days the Paul Gauguin is there. I also loved our overwater bungalow and thought the Beachcomber was a lovely resort with decent service. I would certainly recommend a stay in Moorea vs. Tahiti and a pre-cruise vs. post cruise stay. Another easy transfer to the ferry, a pretty rough ride to Papeete (although I thought it was fun, but then again I love roller-coasters) and a quick bus ride over to the Paul Gauguin. Now the fun really begins!

French Polynesia May 2003 Day 1 the Paul Gauguin

The eight of us who had done a pre-cruise stay at the Moorea Beachcomber arrived at the ship around 3:30. A great bunch of people we would spend much time with over the next days. Two couples had contacted each other through the cruisecritic boards (ssclbc and L and M). We also met a couple from Canada who were on their second PG cruise (lucky them!) and a couple who had won the trip (even luckier them!) Embarkation was quick and smooth. Certainly different than any cruise Ive taken but then again, Ive never been one of only 8 people embarking at one time. After a glass of champagne and a security photo we were escorted to our cabin. Once again I was happy we had done the pre-cruise stay as we could arrange for shore excursion and spa appointments before the majority of passengers embarked and we had the whole late afternoon and evening to explore the ship. The cabins have been described in great detail before, I wont repeat that here. Only a few comments: While the overall storage space is more than adequate, I felt that closet space was a bit tight. The cupboard where the refrigerator is is a bit awkward to access. While the toiletries in the bathroom were nice, they seemed out of place. English types similar to Crabtree and Evelyn. I would have preferred something more tropically scented, perhaps like monoi based products. OK, that is really picky of me, and if thats the biggest fault I can find with the cabins, well

Every Saturday night the square at the pier becomes a big party. Music, dancing, lots of little food trucks (even one roasting a whole pig; smelled delicious from our balcony), families just out and about. We had a snack from room service (the spring rolls are delicious!) while watching all the festivities. Ill comment here that I really think it is true that better views are to be had from the starboard side cabins. It seemed to hold true throughout the cruise whether in Papeete, circling Tetiaroa or Moorea. We met up with several from our pre-cruise group in La Palette for drinks and snacks. Then off for the first of many wonderful meals in LEtoile. Its a beautiful room. The service was excellent, the menu interesting, the portions generous, the wine free-flowing and the quality of food outstanding. The seafood appetizer in a Moorea pineapple is not to be missed. I have never had such delicious pineapples as in French Polynesia and the seafood is incredible as well. During dinner we saw many of the passengers arrive who had come over on the afternoon Air Tahiti Nui flight. Many looked quite tired and Im not sure they were able to enjoy the first evening as much as we were. I heard some excursions filled up, but I found that surprising since there were only 200 passengers on board. I guess some like the Bora Bora waverunners are very limited capacity. Yet another reason to come at least one day early. There was a large group on board celebrating a 65th Birthday and 15th anniversary. They all came to dinner the first night in matching T-shirts. Very cute.

The sailaway party was fun. The Gaugines are an incredibly talented group of young women. The cruise director was relatively new at his position, and although he was fine, I think he needs to loosen up a bit. Many of the crew were introduced. I was surprised how much of the communication on the ship is done in French (always in English as well). There is even a French social hostess/cruise director. The band Siglo is very good. They do very good covers of a wide variety of songs. As we sailed out of Papeete harbor the Saturday night Air Tahiti Nui flight flew right overhead. A sad thought to know we would be on that plane in only one short week. After some dancing under the stars (never did find the southern cross), the swells picked up a little bit and it was time for bed.

Day 2 Paul Gauguin

A few things I forgot from day 1: Our stewardess met us within minutes after we entered our cabin and pointed out the form for the in-room bar set-up, so the problem with the forms which occurred earlier this year has been resolved. Our luggage also arrived promptly (always a source of anxiety for me, one cruise we didnt get it until 2 days into the trip, but thats another long story).

We had breakfast on our balcony as we sailed by Huahine and into the lagoon shared by Raiatea and Tahaa. Room service is very prompt. If you indicate youd like breakfast between 7 and 7:30, it arrives at 7 on the dot. One minor complaint, and if I hadnt already sailed on RSSC I wouldnt be this spoiled, but they dont set up your table as they did on Mariner; just leave the tray. Not a big deal. Also they were really stingy with the cream cheese for the salmon and cream cheese. The next time I asked for more and got it, so if you like cream cheese, order extra. My husbands omelet was amazingly hot. I guess on a small ship youre never far from a galley.

The sail into Raiatea is beautiful, so many colors of blue and islands everywhere you look. It seemed every motu I saw I thought "hey, that looks just like Gilligans Island." Product of too much TV as a child I suppose. Since we had had a fairly busy pre-cruise stay, none of the shore excursions really jumped out at me as a "must do" and I love sea days which this cruise unfortunately lacks, we decided to just stay on the ship and make it a "sea day". After the safety drill (which they are very serious about) we met up with more cruisecritic members in La Palette. If you can arrange it through the message boards, Id highly suggest you do the same. What a great bunch of people who made our trip even more enjoyable. Then it was time for the children of Raiatea show. The smallest girl is so incredibly cute and a great dancer to boot. The show is something not to be missed. Yes, its warm up on deck, but slap on the sunscreen and a hat and do not miss this show. The mamas sell quite beautiful mother of pearl jewelry and other items. I thought it was some of the prettiest costume jewelry Id seen the entire trip and of course I had to buy some. We had lunch in La Verandah; a pan-Pacific buffet. Absolutely delicious! I really appreciate that the quality of the food is consistently excellent and the chefs are not afraid to use bold flavors in their cooking. Of course if you dont like boldly flavored food or more exotic dishes, there are simpler alternatives always available. I especially loved the Thai fish curry and the sushi. We sat outside and watched the tender go back and forth, watched many planes take off and land and the airport and enjoyed some of the fine wine which was offered. Towards the end of lunch we heard shrieks and squeals from the water below and found several couples attempting to negotiate the sea kayaks. My husband tried to talk me into going, but after the out-rigger experience I said "maybe later" (which means "yeah right"). We did go down to the marina platform to pick up snorkel gear, which was of very good quality and put in a great mesh backpack which came in handy for many subsequent shore excursions. While we were down at the platform, we met up with L and M and the two husbands decided to try the kayaks. We wives would be the official photographers. Worked out well for everyone.

I went to the shell lei making class with Le Gauguines. I was surprised to find that I was one of only three people who showed up. It made for an interesting time. As I mentioned before, Les Gauguines are an amazing group of women. Beautiful, friendly, interesting to talk with, and incredibly hard workers. They were seemingly everywhere on the ship; giving talks, at the marina, at the tender dock, singing in the lounges, singing and dancing at dinner, putting on several shows, giving dance lessons. Whew!

I then went to the spa for a massage (hey, lei making is hard work!). This was probably my biggest disappointment of the whole trip. The spa staff acted like they didnt really care if you were there. My massage started late (not because I was late but because the masseuse was late) yet finished on time. When Im paying $95 for a 50 minute massage, I expect a full 50 minutes. The massage itself was only OK. A word of warning for the modest or inexperienced with massages: I didnt feel I was covered as much as usual or as much as I like. The masseuse massaged my abdomen without asking. Felt weird and made it hard to relax. Also, and this is a purely personal opinion, but I thought the massage oil had a weird funky smell. Could never get it out of my clothes either. Oh well, nothings perfect.

The captains welcome reception was this evening. A very nice affair. I always enjoy champagne but other drinks were available if youd like. As I mentioned before, there were only 198 passengers on this sailing so nothing was ever crowded. There was dancing after the reception. I was really surprised how dressed up some people were. But not to fear, many werent as well. It seemed that less than half of the men wore jackets. So if packing space is tight, you can comfortably skip the jacket. Dinner that night in LEtoile was amazing. The lobster in vanilla sauce was probably one of the best lobster dishes Ive ever had and the portion was huge (two large tails). All in all, a great first full day.


Day 3 Paul Gauguin

Let me preface this day by saying there are absolutely no words which can adequately describe just how fantastic the day at Motu Mahana is. But Ill try to give some impressions.

After my husband returned from fitness center we decided to try breakfast in La Verandah for a change. Yes, he was way more motivated than I and went to the fitness center almost every day. The fitness center is small but adequate. The library is nearby and has a very decent selection of books. The daily faxed "newspapers" are also available nearby and bottled water is available in the center. The breakfast buffet was very good and other items are available al a carte. I opted for the french toast and he for the eggs benedict. Both were very good. The cinnamon raisin bread they make the french toast with is delicious. I also got a fruit plate from the buffet. As I said before, the Moorea pineapples are so good, I think I ate some at just about every opportunity. The sail around Tahaa is quite beautiful with Bora Bora in the background. Tahaa really does look like a very quiet island. We did see the shuttle taking people to the Tahaa Pearl Beach Resort, and the resort looked very nice as we sailed by.

Once anchored near Motu Mahana the suspense builds. I watched the tenders go back and forth taking all the supplies for the day from my balcony. Finally it was time to go! But when we got to the tender it was full and we had to wait an agonizing (for me at least) 10 minutes for the next one. That brings up one other little thing I wish they would changemore frequent tender service. But once you get used to the schedule, its OK. The trip over to the motu is quick and through beautiful water. We were welcomed on the dock by music, drinks, bottled water and the ships photographer. I really have to give him credit, he took many photos but was never "in your face". I did think the photos were overpriced though. We opted to sit on the side of the motu facing Tahaa and for most of the day it was just us and one or two other couples. The shallow water extends quite a way towards the ship, making wading easy. But be sure you wear reef shoes! The coral is sharp and there a many sea cucumbers scattered on the sandy bottom. Nasty thingshard to believe something so ugly lives in a place so beautiful. Most passengers seemed to sit near the dock and on the side of the motu facing the adjacent motu. The best snorkeling was to be had here and this was the location of the infamous floating bar. After some exotic blue concoction from the bar, I checked out the vendors. Found some very nice pareos for $25, bought one for pareo night later that evening. I found a black pearl bracelet I just had to have but found I had not brought enough cash. No problem, the lady accepts credit cards (on the motu)!! She had a nice selection of pearls, both set and loose. Some of the loose ones were as little as $15 per pearl, but these really were pretty unattractive. The bracelet I was coveting had 15 pearls, both baroque and circlee ( the ones with the circular ridges) in various colors separated by small gold beads. The luster of the pearls looked very good to my eye. Unfortunately, I had not brought a credit card with me (who knew I could use it?). Well, about that time, my memory card in my camera got full. Didnt bring the other one. So, to kill two birds with one stone I headed back to the ship. Had my own private tender over, ran to the cabin, caught the same tender back and was back on the island in less than hour. Not bad. Purchased my bracelet and even got a 20% discount off of the asking price (dont know why, I didnt ask for one). The pearls turned out to be of good quality when I compared them to the high quality earrings I had purchased on Moorea, they were just not perfectly round (but I kind of like the circled ones in a bracelet actually). So I got 15 set pearls for 22400 XPF, I felt it was a good value.

Now that my shopping was done, it was time for serious relaxation. Got a coconut, got a drinkaaahhh. By the way, the coconuts really do a good job of keeping your drinks cold. A little while later it was lunch time. Yummy poisson cru, a mahi mahi "burger" with papaya salsa, lunch doesnt get much better than this. The facilities on the motu are great. They blend in well but are also very comfortable. Nice chairs, tables and after a few coconut drinks, nice restrooms (very important). I decided to check out floating on my raft (these really are a good idea to bring along) and enjoyed that for quite some time. Then it was snorkeling time. The coral is in really very good shape considering how many people have been around it. Lots of fish, nice coral, sea cucumbers (yuck) and giant clams with gorgeous colored lips. I really enjoyed seeing L and M snorkel for the first time. That first view of the underwater world is so amazing. If youve never done it before, give it a try. Back to the chair for more serious relaxation. Time flies so fast on the motu, seems we had been there for such a short time and bam, it was time to go back to the ship. We were on the last tender over. Sniff, I wanna go back!

Back on board we were treated to the most amazing sunset over Bora Bora. I must have taken 30 pictures of it. Then we watched as the captain and some of his crew circled the ship more times than I kept track of in an outrigger. This was not the first or last time we saw the captain getting his exercise in this fashion. Hes in very good shape. Hes nice enough, but always seemed very business-like. Thats OK, sailing a ship is serious business. After a bunch of stars popped out one by one, we got ready for dinner. Being pareo night I was brave (or crazy) and decided to wear my pareo to dinner. Worked out OK except when my safety pin popped and no one could find me another one. They did manage to come up with a binder clip, not your usual pareo accessory, but put a few flowers on it and it kept me "together". Probably the result of wine with dinner, I actually participated in the pareo contest along with 8 or so other brave (or crazy) individuals. Didnt win (oh well) but got a consolation prize of (drum roll please) a luggage tag!!! A luggage tag?? Yep, a luggage tag. So if you choose to participate in the contest, dont do it for the prize.
Did some dancing afterwards, took off my flip flops in order to not kill myself dancing with them on and they vanished. Never to be seen again. Hmmm, another cruisecritic woman had her flip-flops turn up missing as well. Could there be some strange flip-flop eating god in French Polynesia? That wasnt in any of the Polynesian legends we received in our cabins. After realizing I can not do the macarena or wiggle my hips like a Gauguine, it was time for bed.


Day 4 Paul Gauguin - Bora Bora

Another breakfast on the balcony to start the day. We discovered you can write things in on the room service menu and it comes just as requested. For example, there was not a ham and cheese omelet offered but write it in and voila, it appears the next morning. Got my extra cream cheese that way too. The sail into Bora Bora is beautiful. How is it that every day the scenery gets better? How is that possible?

Today is a busy day. We have both a morning and afternoon shore excursion booked. Morning it is the Waverunner tour around Bora Bora. After a quick tender ride over to the main island we board a Le Truck (watch out for the low ceilings) and take a 15 minute ride to the Beachcomber. There our guide gives us a lifejacket, explains the basic rules and off we go. I let my husband "drive" since he used to ride dirt bikes and still misses it. Besides this way I can just enjoy the scenery. We have to remain a good distance behind the waverunner in front of us and always follow in a straight line. What a thrill this is! The water is smooth so the ride is not very bumpy at all, except for when you go over the wake of another boat, but even then its not bad at all (well get into bumpy later in the day). The seats of the waverunner are very comfortable and there is a decent sized compartment under one seat for your belongings. The water is amazing. Incredibly clear with colors that are every imaginable shade of blue and green and change constantly. We buzz by the ship then go a bit farther until our guide stops us in a shallow sandy area. We all get out and wade around and sit on the shallow sandy bottom. We chat with our guide, who tells us of life on Bora Bora. They have to go to either Raiatea or Tahiti for high school. People come from quite large families and have relatives on most islands. As with all the Tahitians we met, he was friendly, easy going and seemingly happy. We saw a small flounder in the sand and as we were leaving a ray came by. I loved going around the island and seeing how the profile of Mt. Otemanu constantly changes. Another stop about way around the island at a motu. We all wade ashore and are treated to a coconut opening demonstration (not as easy as it looks) and a snack of bananas picked right from the tree with fresh shredded coconut along with coconut water in the coconut. The rest of the way around the island we get to go fast and too soon its over. Id highly recommend this excursion, but book it early if you want a certain time. It fills up fast since there are only so many waverunners. Back on Le Truck, back to the pier. This was one time I really wished the tenders ran more frequently. We just missed one and ended up waiting hour until the next. I wouldnt have minded so much but we had another excursion scheduled for the afternoon and wanted to change clothes, eat and relax a little bit. Oh well, I took advantage of checking the local marketplace. Lots of pareos and shell jewelry along with some wood carvings. I didnt see anything I liked better than what I got on board in Raiatea though.

We cleaned up, changed clothes, re-sunscreened (it was probably the sunniest day of the trip) and went to La Verandah for lunch. It was Italian buffet day. Excellent food and wine once again. Prosciutto, a huge wheel of Parmesano Reggiano, pastas, mussels and tiramisu to die for. Back to the cabin to get hats, sunglasses, water and bug repellent and were off for the off-road adventure. OK, when they say in the excursion description that its bumpy and not for those with vertigo, THEY REALLY MEAN IT. Seven of us got into a Landrover with benches on either side of the back and roll bars/ handles overhead. It was bumpy just getting out of the parking lot but then the real fun began. We went up inclines and through mud that I was sure no vehicle could manage. But we did. Definitely wear a tight fitting hat and sunglasses as tree branches will whack at you. Keep your arms in the vehicle too. And hold on tight!! I came off of my seat on numerous occasions. The views are worth it. I guess seeing the American guns was interesting but its the ride and views that are the real attraction here. Our next stop was at an artists home up in the hills. Heck of a driveway! He handpaints pareos and has a beautiful house and studio. We then stopped at another pareo stand where I found (yet another) one I liked and bought. Up another hill, this one more steep than the last. We were rewarded with beautiful views of the motus at the northern edge of Bora Bora and had a pineapple and grapefruit snack prepared by our guide. There were many mosquitoes here and I was bitten once even with repellent on. One poor girl wasnt wearing any and got numerous bites until I gave her some of my spray. So wear and bring bug repellent. We continued around the island. It was nice to have circumnavigated Bora Bora twice now, once by sea and once by land. We stopped at a pearl store ( an excessive stop I thought, no one bought anything or was really even interested in looking) then at Bloody Marys. Its cute and I guess worth seeing. Several people ate there later in the evening and it got mixed reviews. Reports of worms coming out of the sand at dinner and crawling up diners legs made me glad I ate on the ship.

We had an anniversary celebration scheduled for 5:15 and didnt get back to the ship until then so we raced to the cabin, tried to make ourselves look as presentable as possible and went up to the celebration. They really do a nice job with this. All anniversary couples are invited and there are drinks and horsdoveres. Then each couple is called up one by one with the longest married recognized first (33 years on our trip). Flower crowns ( heis) are placed on your head and you are wrapped in a traditional Tahitian wedding quilt (a tifaifai) and the photographer takes your picture with the sunset in the background ( we forgot to buy ours, oops). Then they read a poem in Tahitian, French and English and give you a copy. Not many dry eyes in the place after that. Honeymoon couples have a similar ceremony the following night. Oh, I forgot, the day before they delivered two glasses of champagne, cake and a note from the captain to our cabin recognizing our 10th anniversary. Very nice.

We strolled around the ship a bit then went back to the room to really clean up for dinner. Another wonderful dinner for two in LEtoile. The ship was rather empty this evening as many passengers were eating at either Bloody Marys or at the Virtuoso sponsored dinner at the Bora Bora Lagoon hotel. The large anniversary/birthday group was eating at Le Grill, so we had the dining room almost to ourselves. Dont remember exactly what I had but I know I ate quite a bit of excellent fish all week and the only thing I didnt care for were the frogs legs one night. Not because I dont like them, but they were overly salty. One bad dish out of who knows how many, thats not bad. We never did eat at La Verandah (Apicius) or the Pacific Grill. I thought the menu at Apicius was too fussy and while the menu at the Pacific Grill looked good, the grill suffers from being rather muggy and warm. Plus the food in LEtoile was so good, why go anywhere else? Maybe next time Ill try the alternative restaurants. Just another reason to go back.


Day 5 Paul Gauguin - Bora Bora

Another great breakfast on the balcony this morning as the Paul Gauguin moved from near Vaiare to closer to the motu where the Pearl Beach resort sits. Then off to the marina platform for our first dive from the ship. This is a first class operation. Pretty much all you have to do is show up and know how to breath and everything else is taken care of for you. The equipment is very nice and in excellent condition. They set up your gear for you in the zodiacs, tagged with your name. Then you just hop into the zodiacs for a quick trip to Tapu, just outside the reef pass. Once at the site, they help you into your gear and you just roll off of the side of the zodiac. There was quite a lot to see on this dive. Nice coral, several different types of sharks, many fish, even the submarine which takes people who dont want to get wet down to see the reef. Dominique takes lots of photos which youll be able to see later. At the end of the dive they help you out of all your gear, help you into the boat and have fresh water available. A quick trip back to the ship, they take all of your gear and rinse it for you and youre done. As we got back on the ship the clouds began to look a bit ominous. Sure enough, at around 11 am the rain started. I was watching it approach from my balcony and scurried inside just in time. It was as if Bora Bora had vanished. Made for a nice long leisurely lunch in La Verandah. It was a French buffet this day, once again wonderful food and wine. The vanilla creme brulee was out of this world. Just after they announced that the afternoon excursions had been canceled, the rain stopped and the sun came out. I felt really bad for anyone who had missed out on an excursion, but I guess they didnt know when the rain would stop. An unexpected side effect of the rain was the development of several beautiful waterfalls down the side of Mt. Otemanu. We decided to take the tender into town so we could phone home and talk with our 5 year old daughter who was home with Grandma. She sounded like she was having a blast and getting spoiled rotten. Saw L and M getting into one of the smallest cars Ive ever seen to tour the island since their excursion had been canceled. After the rain the mosquitoes were out in force, so be aware. We walked around the town for a few minutes, mostly checking out the plants and trees. Lots of mangos, papayas and bananas growing everywhere along with too many flowers to count. Back on the tender to the ship. We considered going over to the motu but opted to just relax on board. So I have no knowledge of how the motu is on Bora Bora. Yet another reason to go back.

At 5 pm Giovanni held a wine tasting. Hes a very informative guy. We tasted two chardonnays and two cabernet sauvignons. They were all wines served in the dining room during the week. I wish we had been able to try something different but oh well. Immediately following the wine tasting I attended the first of two enrichment lectures given by Marc Eddowes, an anthropologist and archaeologist who works in Polynesia. Hes quite a character and gives a fascinating talk on the history of Polynesian society. But a word of warning: its pretty graphic and no holds barred. A lady seated in front of me looked simply stunned for parts of it. But it is well worth attending and very educational while being simultaneously entertaining. Another wonderful dinner in LEtoile and off to dream land as we sail away from Bora Bora.


Day 6 on the Paul Gauguin - Moorea

The ships newsletter "Ia Orana" informed us that we would be circumnavigating Tetiaroa, Marlon Brandos private island, at 8 am so we opted for breakfast on the balcony. It arrived promptly, as always, just as we began our trip around the island. Prior to arriving at Tetiaroa we could see Moorea and Tahiti in the distance. Looked like it was raining near Moorea but we didnt get any more rain during the trip. Tetiaroa is a quite different island from the other islands we visited as it is an atoll, not a high island. We had fantastic views of the virtually untouched motus in the spectacular lagoon from our starboard side cabin. I dont think the people on the port side could see anything. Many birds were flying around this island and we saw the occasional small boat; I think day trips are offered from Tahiti. After we circled the island I went up on deck to see what I could see. For the first time I went all the way up on deck 8. Boy was it hot and the sun strong up there. Not much shade to be had. There is a small bar up there but I dont recall that it was ever open. It was nice though to get a 360 degree view of the surroundings and look over the bow where the zodiacs are kept. Then it was time for the second lecture by Marc Eddowes, this time on the real story of the Mutiny on the Bounty. Once again a fascinating lecture. If you can, definitely attend his talks. Up on deck they were serving Bloody Marys and Mai Tais as we sailed into Cooks bay. We deferred as we had a dive scheduled for noon. We grabbed a quick bite at Le Grill and we were off. Our second dive, this time at the Ledges was almost a private trip, just 4 divers and 2 instructors. This dive has some of the best coral along with many moray eels. Big ones too. We were also lucky enough to see a turtle. This was a long dive, 50 to 55 minutes. The views from the zodiac were fantastic too. Opunohu Bay is even more beautiful than Cooks Bay.

Back on board we opted to just relax and take in the sights of Cooks Bay. Dr. Michael Poole gave an interesting talk on the dolphin and whale populations of the South Pacific. It would be so great to be in Moorea when the humpbacks were there. Just another reason to come back. We had our Seven Seas Society reception this evening. We had sailed on the inaugural trip of the Mariner, so we were members. It was held in the Connoisseur Club, the first and only time I was ever in there. Nice enough place but seemed to be underutilized. The reception was very nice, they had some of the largest shrimp Ive seen along with lots of caviar. I keep trying it but it still doesnt do anything for me. They served very nice champagne (or other drinks if you preferred). Some of the friends we had made over the week came by and after relaxing for awhile longer we all went to dinner. I absolutely love the open seating format on Radisson. Im not sure I could ever take a cruise again where they tell you where and when to eat. After dinner we attended the show for the first time. Were usually not ones to stay up too late and not a huge fan of shows either but the entertainment tonight was quite good. Then up to La Palette to listen to and dance to Hal Fraser. Hes very entertaining. Up way too late tonight.


Day 7 on the Paul Gauguin - Moorea

I had done some shopping in the ships boutique yesterday. I found the selection to be pretty poor and the prices very high. The one exception was the Monoi oil. They had 4 ounce bottles with a Tiare flower inside for $3. It was cheaper than I found anywhere else, including grocery stores on the islands. They have it in Vanilla, Tiare (a gardenia scent), Coconut, and Citronella (supposed to repel bugs). They also had some with sunscreen (only spf 3 or 6) and some lotion, but I believe those were more expensive. I absolutely love the Vanilla Monoi. It feels great on your skin after a day in the water and sun and it even makes a pretty good hair conditioner. Plus it smells fantastic. It will harden if the temperature gets below 72 degrees; one night we must have had the AC cranked up in our room because all of the oil hardened. Makes a nice souvenir or gift.

A late breakfast in Le Grill this morning. Up too late, had too many cosmos last night. Le Grill is my least favorite restaurant on board, not because the food is bad but because it always seems humid and is laid out awkwardly. Some of our friends had gone black pearl shopping the day before and their driver was coming back today to take them on an excursion. They generously invited us along. We all met James at the tender dock and were transported in his air-conditioned van to the far northwest corner of Moorea. No matter how many times I make the drive around Cooks and Opunohu Bays, I could never get tired of it or ceased to be amazed by the beauty. He dropped us off on his familys property just across from the two motus and set us up with individual sea kayaks. Looks like Im going to be paddling one of these after all. The trip over to the motu really wasnt that hard once you get the hang of the kayak and it wasnt too hard to get the hang of. Before we set out James warned us "Time goes very quickly on the motu." He wasnt kidding! When we first arrived on the motu we were essentially the only ones there. We did some snorkeling, it was great between the two motu. Saw many fish, some incredibly colorful ones, several rays and an eel. Watched some people doing the aquascope where they put a weighted helmet on your head and have you walk along the bottom. Pretty funny to watch. Then we just walked the beach taking in all the beautiful sights. We went all the way out to the reef. We were all alone, it really felt like we were on a deserted island. Really magical. My husband found a big pointy stick and decided to practice his coconut opening skills. Well, if this really were a deserted island and we were relying on his coconut opening skills for survival, I wouldnt be writing this review now. He says the stick was defective. Uh-huh. Luckily for us the island really wasnt deserted, in fact there was a very nice little open air restaurant just off the beach. We stopped in and had an absolutely delicious tuna steak in curry with potatoes, rice and french bread. A couple of icy cold Hinanos and you couldnt ask for a better lunch in a better setting. Sadly, time did fly by all too quickly on the motu and it was time to paddle back to shore. James met up with us as promised. One quick stop at his familys pearl store (no sales pressure however and we were all too tired to even look) then back to the ship. We just missed the tender but I didnt mind because there were many vendors set up on the dock. The prices were very good and I was compelled to buy yet another pareo (this one was for my sister) and a cute little outfit for my daughter. The vendors take UD dollars. There was water and restrooms available also so it was a comfortable wait. We watched Polynesian children play in the water and throw sea cucumbers at each other (nasty things!). As always, there were dogs wandering freely around, the smell of the small fires people burn to get rid of excess vegetation and the ever present crowing of roosters. You can even hear those things from the ship! Back on board after our fantasy island day.

We relaxed and took in the sights of Cooks Bay for the last time then went to the Captains farewell. As you sail from Moorea to Tahiti they have a show in the theater by a professional Tahitian dance group, O Tahiti E. They are fantastic. They have gorgeous authentic costumes, do by far the most physical dancing I saw in any show and have a good singer to boot. The men with their elaborate tattoos are a sight to behold. Do not miss this show. We then had a SCUBA reception to attend. One of the instructors, Dominique, takes numerous photos during the dives and has them for sale for $10 each. Hes a good underwater photographer and a great instructor. Hes got a great stamp for your log book too. A final dinner in LEtoile, Im about ready to burst. Luggage has to be out in the hallway tonight so its time to pack. By now were back in Papeete and the party on the pier is going full swing. I just dont want it to end so I take one last stroll around the ship, watch the festivities on the pier for awhile and finally resign myself to going to sleep.


Last Day and trip home

In a nice contrast to many other cruises, you can have breakfast in several different places the last morning including your cabin and youre not rushed off of the ship. Earlier in the week you provide reception with your after-cruise plans and on Wednesday or Thursday you receive appropriate colored bag tags and detailed instructions about disembarkation. We considered skipping the tour, but not knowing if our room at Le Meridien would be available and feeling like we just wanted to go along for the ride, we decided to take it. All in all, Im glad we made that choice. We scored the two front seats in the large air-conditioned bus which made for great views out of the front and side windows. While Papeete and the surrounding areas are certainly a shock after being on much less populated and more neatly kept islands, I didnt feel like it was a slum or nasty at all. It certainly is much better than just about any Caribbean town Ive seen. It is enjoyable to look up the canyons at the jagged peaks or out over the reef with its pounding surf. Our guide was very informative and entertaining as well. The first stop at the Tahiti museum was very interesting, in fact I wish we would have stayed here longer. We were lucky in that as it is the 100th anniversary of Gauguins death, there are some actual original paintings present at the museum. Another ride to the Paul Gauguin museum. Other than the scenery on the way there, I felt this stop could have been skipped. They do have a nice shop in the museum though. Back to Le Meridien, straight to the lunch buffet as the rooms would not be ready until 1:30. The lunch buffet was decent, not as good as on the PG, but thats hard to top. Unfortunately the only time I really felt sick the entire trip was after lunch. Coincidence? I dont know. Fortunately our room was ready at 1:30; some peoples werent. Unfortunately we were given very poor directions to our room and after wandering around for quite awhile (there were no signs and none of the hotel staff seemed able to help us) we found it. No wonder it was so hard to find, it was crammed in against the side of a hill with a view of absolutely nothing. Thankfully our luggage was in our room. The room itself was pretty poor. Dark, musty, ants on the floor and, much to my dismay, on my pillow. Between my stomach not feeling right and the ants, there was no nap happening for me. I tried sitting on the verandah but it was ant covered and lots of little flying bugs kept dive bombing me. So I took a walk. Maybe it was having spent the past week in exceptionally beautiful places, but the grounds of Le Meridien didnt seem as nice a when we were here 10 days ago. There were numerous kids shrieking and squealing on the beach and in the pool. Nothing seemed all that nice about the place anymore. We took the advice of others and had brought along sodas and water from the mini-bar in our cabin. Good thing too, because the prices at the hotel were nuts. At sunset we took a walk to the beach. Almost no one else was there and we saw probably the best sunset of the trip over Moorea. A nice grand finale.

Since I wanted to sleep on the plane later and we were a little hungry we decided to try the infamous "pizza place" next door - Le Cigalon. We headed over at around 6 pm and if you decide to eat there I suggest you go that early as well. It operates on island time and you need to be back at the hotel lobby to be picked up by 7:30. The pizzas are very good, one fed the two of us although we werent terribly hungry. One pizza and two Hinanos only set us back $20. Back to the hotel for the transfer to the airport. After a shell lei goodbye we headed to Faaa. Check in was pretty quick and easy. Remember to get your pearl receipt stamped just after you go through x-ray. We wandered around the duty free stores a bit and got a few last minute things. No bargains to be had here though. Even though the airport wasnt air-conditioned it was comfortable and the padded benches we waited on were fine. We took off on time and were lucky to have a partly empty flight with many of the middle seats vacant. This plane did not have the foot rests or the lumbar support that the other one did. Also, the very middle arm rests do not fold up. I still managed to cram myself into two seats and with the help of an Ambien I was off to dream land for 6 hours. Woke up in time for breakfast. Customs and immigration in LA went smoothly. They asked about black pearls and didnt want to let me bring my hei into the country. Oh well, it was getting pretty ratty anyway. Recheck the luggage and off for the short walk to terminal 4 for our final flight to DFW. Good to be home, but Im longing to return to French Polynesia some day.


Lauri <lcampagna@ameripath.com>
McKinney, TX USA - Tuesday, June 10, 2003 at 12:10:41 (EDT)
May 15 – May 31, 2003
Tahiti, Haumana-Opale Cruise (Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa & Bora Bora) & Moorea

This board was ever so helpful in planning our trip and we wish to thank everyone for their input. We returned last weekend from our 20th Wedding Anniversary Celebration in French Polynesia. We departed Reno on Thursday evening and opted to spend the night in L.A. to avoid awful flight connections on the way. We stayed at the Sheraton Four Points, the room was comfortable and they had free shuttle service to and from LAX. Friday, we arrived at LAX at about 9:15 a.m. for our 1:00 p.m. flight on Air Tahiti Nui. The flight went by fairly quickly, 2 meals and 5 movies to choose from. The food and service were both good.

Upon arrival in Tahiti Friday evening we had meet and greet service provided in our package. We received our flower leis and were transferred to the Tahiti Beachcomber. Since we were only spending one night there we opted for the Beachcomber because it was close to the airport. We chose a garden view room, which was both spacious and comfortable.

Saturday morning we returned to the airport for our flight to Huahine on Air Tahiti. Check in and security were again smooth. We arrived in Huahine about an hour later and were transferred to the Haumana for our 7-day Opale Cruise. We can not say enough good things about the Haumana and it’s crew. The first three days of our cruise there was only one other couple aboard. The other couple was from Paris. They spoke no English and we spoke no French. Our French phrase book got quite a workout and we became good friends. In any event, it was like being on a private yacht the first 3 days. It felt like an episode of “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous.” The crew was fantastic and full of Tahitian spirit. On the fourth day another 10 passengers boarded and it was still a very friendly and fairly intimate cruise. The food on the Haumana was superb and the chef very accommodating. The excursions were all top notch! We had breakfast in the water on two occasions in two different locations. Breakfast in the lagoons was an awesome experience! There were plenty of activities and leisure time. The ship sails during meals and/or at night so you never feel like you are missing any time in ports or on the Motus. One of our favorite activities aboard the ship was “Happy Hour with the Coco Boys!” Each evening from 5:30-6:30 the Haumana offers 2 for 1 Happy Hour drinks. During that hour the “Coco Boys” perform for the passengers, playing ukulele’s, guitars, percussion and belting out Tahitian tunes. The crew generally gets all the passengers involved at some point during the evening and it is truly entertaining.

The Haumana cruise was by far the best cruise we had ever been on. The crew is very personable and full of enthusiasm. We felt like we were leaving close friends when we disembarked and will always cherish our memories from the cruise.

The Cruise ended in Bora Bora and from there we flew to Moorea for a 1 week stay at the Pearl Beach. We stayed in a Garden Bungalow, #229, which we think was the best of the Garden Bungalows. It is the furthest away from the bar and is situated between 2 Beach Bungalows with a wonderful view of the lagoon. We thought the Pearl Beach was a very pretty resort. It is a smaller and more intimate resort. We never had any complaints about the food or service. Our breakfast was included in our package, which we were grateful for since the “American Breakfast” goes for $25 each per day. The lagoon at the PB was a little murky at times but you can take kayaks out at no charge and anchor them out by the reef where the snorkeling is spectacular. While in Moorea we did a 4 x 4 Safari tour, rented a car for a day, did a shark/ray/motu tour and went to the Tiki Village dinner show. We had a wonderful week. We felt all the excursions were worthwhile except the Tiki Village dinner show. It wasn’t worth $92/person. The food wasn’t that good and it felt like they were peddling their wares for the first hour. The show was okay, but we liked the show at the PB just as well and you could watch it for free from the bar. On our last day, our flight from Moorea to Tahiti didn’t leave until 5:45 p.m. and the PB was very gracious in allowing us a late check out time of 4:30 p.m.

We had the 10:00 p.m. ATN flight back to LAX, which was delayed about 15 minutes. The flight to LA was smooth sailing otherwise. We made it through customs in about 20 minutes without any problems and were able to catch an earlier flight home. All in all, we had a positively wonderful trip. The only drawback is the same as most everyone else, we now have this Flu and can’t seem to get over it.



Dawn & Jeff Hardison
Minden, Nevada USA - Saturday, June 07, 2003 at 19:08:22 (EDT)
May 16th - June 1st, 2003
Tahaa, Bora Bora, Rangiroa, Manihi etc

Denver-LAX then Air NZ to PPT. Air NZ has two seats on either side and 4 in the middle. Once in the air and seat belt sign goes off, a mad dash by stampeding fools to dive into any empty middle rows and then bickering over who got there first. Ridiculous. 9 hr flight with 2 to 3 movies. Food good & staff great. Arrive as everyone knows at 2:15am. Waited in cafeteria until 6am for 1st flight out from Tahiti to Raiatea. (a can of sprite in the cafeteria is $4. Bureau de change is open at 3am & so is an automated currency exchange machine but a rip-off rate). No direct flight to Tahaa since no airport there. Have to fly to Raiatea and then take boat to Tahaa which is fine. Plane left on time and stopped off in Huahine. Nice side trip for sightseeing and Huahine looked lovely. Then took off again & arrived in Raiatea.

Tahaa: 3nts Vahine Island resort

To get to Tahaa you take a boat from the airport dock to your hotel. We were staying at Vahine island resort. Decided to go there instead of Tahaa PB as we wanted a more personal setting w/less tourists. Glad we did. There's only 3 OWBs & a few beach bungalows dotted around the 8+ acre island motu. Eric was the host, from Bordeaux, France. V. nice & accommodating. It was raining when we arrived. The big resorts like Tahaa PB etc have a plethora of americans. We like interacting w/other cultures. It helps to know french to interact w/the locals, the french tourists & other tourists. I am fairly fluent in french, being from Scotland, and a few others. The OWBs were spacious and very nice. Wonderful views of Tahaa and sunrise over Bora Bora. Water was turquoise. Snorkeling v. good on the north side of the island. An awesome natural jacuzzi tide pool about 5ft deepon the reef; it keeps filling up and eddying out as you sit there. TONS of sea cucumbers in the lagoon.
Did the Tahaa 4x4 tour. Was fairly good. Bring repellant! The jeep stops about 6 or 7 different times to look at plants etc and mosquitoes nose dive immediately in droves once you get out. Great view from the top of Tahaa; great pic opportunities. We got juice, banana, coconut, papaya, star fruit etc to munch on at the top. Went to a pearl farm & vanilla plantation. Pearl stuff informative but vanilla is king there. Get vanilla from Tahaa!
Day #2 was perfect weather. Day#3 was gale force wind & overcast.
It takes 35mins to get from Raiatea to Vahine Island by boat.
By the way, the food at Vahine is the best out of anywhere in Tahiti. Eric's wife was a cordon bleu chef in France and makes the most fantastic array of food with spectacular presentation. Overall a very nice intimate setting and relaxed atmosphere. By the way, if you want to play any board games, they have monopoly & scrabble, for those rainy days. We saw scfphoto there too(nice to have met you).

Bora Bora: 3nts Pearl Beach resort.

Even travelling from Raiatea to Bora Bora, sit on the left side for views. Jan Prince's book specifically states that from Raiatea you should sit on the right. WRONG. Left side for Bora views. At BOB airport you are immediately cognisant of the fact that there are many tourists here. Many Japanese, americans, french predominately. We arrived on yet another gale force rainy day. The beautiful lagoon was so choppy I felt I was 'rounding the horn'. Pearl Beach is only a 15 minute boat ride away. Exceptional baggage transferal service from the airport to the boat and then to the room. Pearl Beach has undergone a renovation and it was a spectacular resort. Such a pity that the weather refused to cooperate.
Everyone raves about the infamous #35 OWB and I conducted research on which would technically be the best one. After reading all the posts on the forum I elected to go with #43. After seeing where #35 is and where #43 is, I can say with total conviction that #43 is the best OWB of them all! #35 is all the way at the end on the 2nd arm and has outstanding views...but, from the deck, it's not as private as #43 since a couple of other OWBs can see you on your deck. It also doesn't have a ~200 degree view like #43 does. In #43 NOONE can see you on your deck and you're all the way at the end on the 3rd arm. Absolutely perfect and fantastic views. #44 is pretty good too.
Well the weather was super windy 90% of the time we were in Bora Bora. We were going to eat at Bloody Mary's but the tree stump chairs & dining are on the beach area and the rain and constant wind made that a no go. PB has a complimentary boat ride to the main island whereupon you can connect with a complimentary shuttle bus to take you into the main town of Vaitape. If you look down and forage into your bag for stuff and then look back up, you can miss Vaitape. It's pretty small. The most activity is around the wharf. There's two grocery stores that offer much more reasonable prices on baguettes, pop, beer etc and you can take stuff back to your room. The meal plans are not the way to go unless you wish to pay a lot of money for average food. There's also a cafe 1min walking distance from the wharf where you can get an emergency cheeseburger fries & coke for about $10 if you crave a change. The sun came out for an hour or so while we were there and the wind died down (wow!)
The island itself is meagre in affluence for the indigenous populace which is remarkable considering the vast tourist money constantly flowing in.
I've been to most places in the world and it had been my dream to come to Bora Bora for nigh on 15 years. I was not really impressed with the island at all. The weather does make a big difference and perhaps I'd have had a different perspective if the wind & rain hadn't been a constant factor. The lagoon is breathtaking. However, the constant influx and buzz of tourists was an anticlimax and we couldn't wait to be far from the madding crowd.
The PB has a wonderful pool (couldn't use it due to the weather) and there's a pool table and lush grounds. Overall the staff were very helpful (apart from room service who constantly put you on hold & never came back)and there were no billing nightmares. There's only 1 english movie channel on tv; the remaining 3 channels are in french. When the weather's awful, you can't walk around or lie by the pool, play ping pong, snorkel etc so you watch the same movie in a loop (Artificial Intelligence)for that day.
we were really getting despondent with the weather (5 days of rain & wind). Thank god we weren't there for just 1 week. We felt sorry for those who were ther for only a week since they only got 1 day of sunshine. Anyway, things were about to change.........

Rangiroa: 1nt Kia Ora Village; 4nts Kia Ora Sauvage

Absolutely hands down the most perfect place to be in all of Frnch polynesia! Far superior to Bora Bora, negligible tourists and an idyllic shangri-la. Even tough it was 'raining' (gasp), we knew the atmosphere was different and so didn't care. We wanted to only stay at the Kia Ora Sauvage but were forced to stay at the Kia Ora Village for a night since no plane arrives in Rangiroa in time to make the once daily boat departure at 9am. However, what a pleasant surprise. The KOV was a very nice resort and the beach bungalow we had was exceptional. I went with a beach bungalow since we'd already done 6nts of OWBs and we only needed a night anyway. Glad we did. Right on the beach and a jacuzzi on the deck. (the jacuzzi is cold water). Very nice, immaculate grounds and they have a pool table with a lounge tv room which has CNN with 22 other channels -a good thing when there's a torrential downpour.
The bar out on the jetty area serves STRONG drinks..woa! If you want board games (as in Scrabble) you get them here. Part of the floor areas are made of glass and you look right into the lagoon below.

The next day we awoke to more rain. (I specifically picked May since it isn't in the typical elongated rainy season)Time for the 1.5hr boat trip across the lagoon to the KOS. I was told that the lagoon is normally calm for boat crossings, but naturally, we cross when it's decidedly choppy (deja vu cf Bora Bora lagoon). One of the crew almost threw up as we finally arrived. Not me. Dramamine was bought in advance..just in case.
As we arrived at the Sauvage, it was as if Moses parted the Red Sea. It stopped raining and the skies began to clear. The host we had was 'Michael' he does the odd months. This guy is great! He is the most outgoing, funny, warm and considerate host out of anywhere in the world I've ever been. He speaks perfect English and French, in addition to his Tahitian. He knows smattering of other languages like I do due to his contact with many nationalities. The Sauvage is located on a deserted island motu at the south side of the lagoon. All the surrounding island motus are deserted. Michael conducts shark feeding from the beach daily and you can get in and swim with the sharks (black tip reef). He has 2 new dogs called Joe & Josephine, like the previous dogs he used to have with the same names. Joe dog paddles with you out to the other islands or hundreds of yards out snorkeling. He takes breathers on top of coral. He chases all the sharks and is a character. There's no electricity at the Sauvage; so no TVs, faxes, computers, phones, outlets etc. They bring lanterns to your room at dusk. Michael blows a conch shell for lunch & dinner to announce the start of the meal which is served family style with other guests. When we were there the guests ranged from French to American to Japanese. Only 5 couples can stay on the island. Most couples stay for 2 or 3 nights. We stayed for 4 and were highly pleased. The weather for the next 4 days was perfect. Abundant sunshine. Lovely sunsets and tons of stars. Michael takes you out to deserted islands and drops you off for a few hours if you want or you can go with other couples to fabulous snorkeling areas or out to see petrified coral outcrops by the reef areas. There's kayaks you can get in and paddle off or you can swim to other islands. The water is crystal clear and visibility is endless. The colour of the water ranges from medium blu to turquoise to pea green. Michael is so funny and genial. We were really sorry to have left this place; it was magical. The boat ride back was smooth; the lagoon water was like glass. Rangiroa was perfect and KOS an experience of a lifetime. Famous celebrities have come to stay here.

Manihi: 3nts Pearl Beach resort.

There's no airport at Manihi! sit on the left side of the plane for great views of the island of Anaa.
The PB is 5mins by golf cart. This PB is not as nice as the BBPB. We were in premium OWB and saw cockroaches for the first time in all our stay. The bathrooms are smaller and several things didn't work properly. The sink faucet didn't come on, deck door wouldn't lock etc. Did a sunset cruise and that was v. nice. Went into the main town via boat (every morning at 11:30 once a day) but if you want to shop, the shops close at noon so hurry. We got baguettes, cheese and meats from a store by the waterfront also. Talked to local children and hung out until the boat came back for us an hour later. The hotel has a pool table and decent activities. The manager, who is from France was very nice and tried to fix all the problems with our OWB. She spoke perfect english. Very remote here and no english spoken outside of the resort at all which was fine for us anyway. No tourists in town at all. Only locals. Only 1 couple from USA in the entire hotel.

Tahiti: last day before flight at 235am

Arrived Tahiti at noon and went into town for the day. Saw the Paul Gaugin cruise ship and had lunch & dinner at roadside cafes. The roulotte food trucks are cool to see and experience on the harbour side and the locals gather with their kids to listen to bands play in an open arena area. Taxis usually cost $15 to get from the airport to town and we had a taxi driver chancing his arm at $25 to go back to the airport at 10pm.
You can store your bags while you go into town at the left luggage building in the parking lot of the airport. It cost us about $20 for 2 big bags, a rucksack and a carry-on bag.

All in all, we had an amazing trip. We never had any problems with overweight luggage during the 2+ weeks we were there. My bag alone weighed 44lbs and we had another wihich was about 33lbs and a 3rd which was about 10lbs. They made us check that one since it was a bit too big to fit in the overhead bin. There's never any security on these flights and you sit where you please.
I'd like to return someday, but I'd stay in Rangiroa and perhaps Huahine since it is said to be very romantic and less touristy. I also would like to visit Kaukura and Maupiti next time so as to really get away from mass tourism with inflated prices and interact with the warm and friendly locals; which is what I frequently did on Manihi and Rangiroa.

I hope this rather verbose trip report served as a tour de force perspective and insight for others. Most trip reports usually involve Moorea and so I endeavoured to be very descriptive on these less talked about places.

Ewan Skouse <ewanskouse@msn.com>
Denver, CO USA - Saturday, June 07, 2003 at 16:33:06 (EDT)
april 28-may 10
6 nights sheraton moorea
5 nights le meridien bora bora

first i have to say that it seems everyone's experience is completely different, so you're honestly just going to have to see for yourself! i will forewarn that the trip report i am about to make is almost the polar opposite of the one just a couple below this... and it's the same hotels and everything. literally, polar opposite experiences.

we took the 8:45pm Sunday air new zealand flight from lax to ppt. it left on-time. arrived on-time. ANZ is a great airline. very spacious. not full. good food actually. so yes, we were at the ppt airport at 3am... with nothing to do until our flight to moorea left at 6am. we were met by the air tahiti agent and we exchanged our flight vouchers for actual tickets. for the hours we had to kill we sat in the open cafeteria area. the currency exchange opened, so we got some XPF. (the exchange rate was always better at our hotels, though.) we caught our flight on air moorea at 6am. upon arrival at the moorea airport we paid $37 for a taxi to the sheraton. there must have been a better, less expenive way to do this, but who knows.

upon arrival at the sheraton we were greeted with fresh juice and were told that our room was ready - which was so nice considering it was only 6:30am. we were promptly shuttled off to our bungalow (no explanation of where anything in the resort was located). we had OW bungalow #56, which is the very first OWB. we LOVED the bungalow and our view- some ocean, some land. we were very glad we didn't pay extra to get a "premium" OWB. we went to the restaurant and had breakfast then back to the bungalow for snorkeling.

i have to mention how much we liked our OWB. it was very spacious and the decks were laid out quite well. the top deck had a table and chairs and the bottom deck had nice chaise lounges to lay out on.

we had a nice piece of coral right under our bungalow's glass pane, so we saw tons of fish. the snorkeling right off our bungalow was amazing, too. unfortunately, after the first day it was so windy that we were unable to lay out on the deck nor could we snorkle b/c the wind made such big waves in the lagoon.

we did the 4x4 tour one day and that was the best half day we spent. our guide was VERY knowledgable. you'll notice that every native will tell you they are decended from royalty, though! ;)

we also bought a black pearl necklace on moorea at the Black Pearl Gem Company. dan the owner is fabulous and we highly recommend the store. they have a complimentary shuttle van that will pick you up from your hotel and take you to the store (and bring you back). you can shop in the little shopping area there, too. we went to the grocery and got some bread, lunch meat and cheese to try to keep the cost of food down. moving onto food...

we ate the first night at te hono iti. we're food connoisseurs and thought it was just okay, but we didn't find it as great as a lot of people on this board reported. the atmosphere is nice, though, and the location great. we got to see an eel hunt for his dinner! we ate at le mahogany twice and really enjoyed it. better food and half the price of te hono iti. and of course we also ate at the sheraton. talk about a total rip-off and the worst service i've ever encountered! i am still flabbergasted by the appalling service. when we would order a drink, IF we got it at all it was 30 minutes later. in fact most of the service at the sheraton was totally lacking. although once the weekend came around and the place was infultrated with locals, they seem to get great service. i wasn't impressed.

anyway, with the wind whipping a lot of tours weren't operating and the ocean/lagoon was so choppy that we spent most of our time just lounging around the pool. i find this to be a total waste. i go to an ocean paradise and swim in a pool? UGH!

as we left to go to bora bora my husband made the comment that our 6 night stay on moorea was probably 5 nights too long.

we took air tahiti to bora bora. (yes sit on the left side of the plane for a view of the islands.) as we approached the island i was instantly in love! the lagoon was so beautiful! we landed and were greeted by the Le Meridien staff. there was only one other couple going to the hotel so we were quickly gathered and away we went. the 10-15 minute boat ride was very enjoyable, getting to look at the amazing colors of the lagoon! we arrived and were immediately greeted by a very nice and attentive french girl. she gave us some juice and cold towels. heaven! after a brief check in process she took us and the other couple around the whole resort, showing us and telling us where everything was located. we arrived at our OW bungalow (#235) and our bags were there waiting for us.

as for the bungalow, it was lacking, i will say that. there was some strange debris everywhere including on the bed. (my husband thought they were dead bugs, but i think it was dust.) it was much smaller and darker than the bungalow on moorea. and the decks were tiny. there were 2 chaise lounges and then a small spiral staircase that led straight into the water. and oh yeah, no A/C... which I knew before hand, but WOW was it HOT in there! our view was amazing, though... we looked right at mount otemanu. the sunset views were great, and i swear, the moonlight fell across the lagoon right onto our bungalow!

so aside from the so-so bungalow, we LOVED the resort! we really enjoyed snorkeling in the protected lagoon. there were tons of fish and turtles. the open lagoon was beautiful (looking right at mount otemanu) and the beach was wonderful to lay out. there is a tiny pool and we spent maybe an hour there every day late in the afternoon.

we did the shark feeding excursion with tevia tours and i can't recommend this enough! it was great! first stop is swimming with the sharks and rays. second stop is snorkeling the coral gardens. and the third is to an area of the lagoon that is so shallow and so clear that the tour guide calls it his private pool! they were taking a video of the whole tour and at the end you can buy it. it was $130, but everyone on our trip (8 couples) bought it! it is a great momento!

we also did the 4x4 tour, which is great to see the whole island. we especially enjoyed the WWII canons and history. (VERY sad that local tahitians know more U.S. history than we do.) our tour guide again claimed he was decended from royalty! i don't know who to believe! or, everyone left on there is from royalty!

as for restaurants, we ate at le meridien one night. that was a mistake of gargantuan proportion. the food was not very good and it was incredibly expensive. we also ate at bloody mary's. my husband likened the experience to being in paris and going to the hard rock. VERY americanized. the food was okay. atmosphere kinda neat. another night we went to bamboo house. here we enjoyed our food, but the french business owner was kind of snotty. and our final night and favorite meal of the entire 2 weeks was at Fare Manuia. i highly recommed it. great food, not totally absurd prices.

we didn't go to the grocery on bora bora, mainly b/c it was too far away and the money it would cost to get to the store and book would have negated the reason for getting it (to keep down costs). we ate lunch on the beach at the hotel every day and got an interesting array of seafood, meats, cheeses and fruit for only $35.

one of my favorite things was to either sit on our deck or go to the Miki Miki Bar and watch the sunset. they are just breathtaking on bora bora.

we really enjoyed le meridien, the resort itself, and think it certainly had the best view on the island. however upon our return we may opt for a beach bungalow. not only do they have air, but they are significantly less expensive. snorkeling off the OWB was all but non-existent, so why pay the money?

we must've been really lucky with weather on bora bora - it rained one night and morning and then another afternoon it rained for maybe 30 minutes, but no one was phased by it. in fact everyone stayed outside, in the pool, etc. we were on chaise lounges by the pool and just stayed under our umbrella. actually kind of a nice break from the heat and sun!

when we left we were shuttled to the airport for our flight back to tahiti. we went to the le meridien there, had dinner, then went back to the airport for our 2:35am flight to lax. it left ppt on-time and arrived into lax on time. customs and immigrations were so easy that we actually caught an earlier flight back to denver than the one we were scheduled on.

as you can see we had the absolute opposite experience as some others. we would skip moorea on our next trip and probably go to taha'a instead. (the new pearl beach, even from the air, looked amazing!) we would definitely return to bora bora as well. maybe le meridien, maybe sofitel motu, maybe the brand new ritz carlton scheduled to open in a few years! :)

this was the dream vacation/honeymoon of a lifetime!!!

martinigirl
denver, co - Tuesday, June 03, 2003 at 03:14:07 (EDT)
Like the traveler below, we were in FP May 17-27. We started with 3 nights at the Sofitel Motu Bora Bora, and it was everything we had hoped for in accomodation. The setting is wonderful with picturesque views of the island, snorkeling just below your bungalow and very small and intimate feeling. The only drawback to the resort was the food and sometimes service in the restaurant. We were disappointed with our dinners everytime. Breakfast and lunches were very good (soooo expensive!) but not dinners. Other than that, we had a wonderful time there, even though the weather did not cooperate with us, it didn't slow us down and we did all the activities we wanted. Very nice people and a very warm welcome and farewell.

The next part of our trip was a sailing charter with Moorings, and the weather did impact that part of the trip. We had Moorings deliver the boat to us in Bora Bora (it saved both a long flight to Raiatea and a long sail to Bora Bora) but we didn't get to see Huahine or Raiatea due to the high winds and seas. Tahaa is a beautiful little island that doesn't have many tourists, just a few resorts and nice people. We enjoyed our time sailing there.

This site was very helpful to me in trip planning so I hope this report has been helpful to others planning a trip like this!
Pat <pat@citadel-usa.com>
Roseville, CA USA - Monday, June 02, 2003 at 19:32:31 (EDT)

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